Non-communicable fish diseases. Common diseases of aquarium fish: symptoms and treatment
TREATMENT OF AQUARIUM FISH
BRIEFLY ABOUT FISH TREATMENT.
This note outlines brief postulates and thoughts on treating fish for beginners and aquarium hobbyists. Read them carefully, they will help you and your pets.
1. Assess the feasibility of treatment. Sometimes the cost of medicine (500 rubles) is several times higher than the cost of a fish (neon 50 rubles). No matter how cruel it may sound, there is common sense in what has been said. We are only FOR it if you are responsible for those you have tamed and treat the fish as a family member and all that. But no one has canceled the concepts of rationality and expediency.
2. Before any treatment, 1/4-1/2 of the water is replaced with fresh water. This is done in order to minimize the concentration of nitrogenous compounds - poisons. It is important to understand that often these poisons are the root cause of fish diseases. The fish are poisoned by them, their immunity drops and the pathogenic flora calmly attacks the weakened body.
3. In addition, it is advisable to always have on hand drop tests for the above poisons + for. For what? Firstly, to know the concentrations and not allow them to be exceeded. Secondly, it is not always necessary to completely zero out nitrate (NO3) and phosphate (PO4), for example, in a planted aquarium, zeroing them out will lead to additional problems with the plants, because Nitrate and phosphate are the main nutrients for plants. Thirdly, the tests themselves allow not only to monitor the situation and understand the root cause, but also to control the situation before, during and after treatment.
Remember - you cannot administer medications when nitrogen and phosphate levels are high! By doing so, you will only aggravate the situation, since in addition to the poisons you will also add drugs that both heal and destroy. That is, they have not only positive properties, but also negative ones. Remember that any medicine is not a panacea, not a magic pill.
What tests to use? At your discretion, but preferably in drops and not in strips, because... drip ones are more accurate. In principle, take any tests you find, for example, they are certainly available in every offline store. If these tests are expensive for you, it is quite possible to find our inexpensive domestic ones at retail, if time is of the essence or you want to take tests for the future, then our recommendation (sold only online), also domestic, also inexpensive. Each of the above tests has its own specifics, incl. look and think for yourself. The note is not about tests, but about the treatment of fish.
4. How, with what and for what to treat? Any forum discussions about fish disease are fortune-telling. Because accurate diagnosis An ichthyoptologist can diagnose it after scraping the fish and analyzing it under a microscope, or even after dissecting the fish. So, something like this, friends. Our position on the mechanism home treatment painted in this one, take a look. The bottom line is brief: if the symptoms of the disease are obvious, as, for example, with or, then we treat with drugs and according to the treatment regimen for this disease. If the symptoms are not obvious, we treat comprehensively.
Moreover, when we talk about " complex treatment“It is advisable to understand and analyze what and from what we are pouring. For example, a drug is:
Ethacridine lactate - 836.0 mg
Acriflavine - 160.2 mg
Methylene blue - 56.44 mg
9-aminoacridine * HCI * H2O - 28.20 mg
It’s not there, look for its components. And in general, it is advisable to collect an “Aquarium First Aid Kit” and keep it always at hand. Let's say there are Medosovsky-Vladoksovsky domestic monomedicines.
They took them, and, in fact, received the components of Tetra General Tonic. Silva please, gentlemen.
Moreover, having gained experience, you can generally master it and switch to treatment.
5. The treatment regimen itself is described in the instructions. There is no special wisdom here. Please note that during treatment it is advisable to increase the aeration of the aquarium and not keep the aquarium lighting constantly on. Many drugs disintegrate quickly when exposed to light.
Of course, there should not be any sorbents (charcoal, zeolite) in the filter; water conditioners, such as or, cannot be used, they bind drugs.
6. After treatment, do not forget that many medications disrupt the biological balance in the aquarium, that is, they kill both pathogenic and beneficial flora. Here, drop tests, good quality water changes, and other measures aimed at restoring the nitrogen cycle in the aquarium will come to your aid.
SUMMARY. Fish don't just get sick. Negative conditions of detention are the root cause. Either you bought already stunted fish, or negative conditions have developed in your aquarium. Any treatment begins first of all with finding and eliminating the root cause. Next, a decision is made on the treatment mechanism. During the treatment period, special attention is paid to symptoms (regression, progress). Please note that regression of the disease may not occur in 2-3 days. After treatment, we do everything so that the aquarium begins to work as a single, holistic and healthy mechanism.
NOT BRIEFLY =)
In this article, I wanted to discuss all the aspects and nuances of treating a sick pet. The purpose of the article is to give the basics to beginners, and many already experienced aquarists - WHAT TO DO IF THE FISH GETS SICK.
This article will not be a revelation or a panacea, we will talk about simple and understandable things, but still, in our opinion, they are the key to the health of both the fish and the aquarium as a whole.
First, let's figure out why and why fish get sick. Fishes are living creatures just like you and me. Any living creature will feel good and not get sick when it is in comfortable conditions. People go to fitness clubs, relax in sanatoriums, try to live in comfort, eat the right and healthy food, breathe fresh, clean air and this is the key to their health and longevity.
The same applies to fish, they will always be healthy and you will not have to treat them if they live in comfort, i.e. in a healthy, complete, proper aquarium. We affirm with 120% confidence that in a healthy aquarium, with a adjusted biobalance, not a single aquarium fish will get sick!
So, we have established the root cause of all troubles - “ bad aquarium" What does this mean? There are quite a few factors that characterize the concept of a “bad aquarium”:
- this is both overpopulation and incorrect selection of fish;
- these are inappropriate parameters of aquarium water for a particular type of fish (t, pH, dH, kH, etc.);
- this also includes inadequate water quality, i.e. presence of poisons in it: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates ;
- this can be expressed in improper decoration of the aquarium;
- in inadequate or poor-quality lighting;
- in the end, in improper care of the aquarium: feeding, water changes, etc.;
If we summarize all these negative factors, we can simply say: there is no BIOBALANCE - BIOLOGICAL EQUILIBRIUM.
Now, based on what has been said, let’s see what happens to the fish’s body under such negative conditions. And the same thing happens as with us people - protective mechanisms turn on. Depending on the damaging factor in fish, this can manifest itself in different ways, for example:
- when there is overpopulation or the wrong selection of fish, they begin to fight, stress or a depressed state appears;
- at elevated temperatures or lack of oxygen, fish begin to swim near the surface, puff up their gills, and greedily swallow air. Again, stress, lethargy, “fainting.”
- in the presence of poisons in the water, the fish also trigger defensive mechanisms of addiction.
How do these protective mechanisms work? The answer is also simple - due to immunity. Which, as you understand, is non-rubber. And when it ends, the fish’s body ceases to resist all pathogenic organisms and/or negative factors. The illness phase begins.
What is wrong with the fish and how to treat it?
Here, when the first obvious signs appear feeling unwell fish, an aquarist and begins frantically searching the Internet for answers to the questions: what happened, what to do and how to treat it?
As a rule, such a frantic search ends in a mess in the head and in the end, the aquarist simply goes to the nearest pet store, tells the seller of my fish “this”, gets a drug for “this”, then runs back to the aquarium, pours in “this”, gets it from process of relief, thinking that “everything, my fish will get better.” BUT!!!... usually the opposite happens. The fish get even worse and die.
What happens in the described situation? Let's say the aquarist guessed right with the medicine, which already seems to be good. But this is not a magic pill for all ills. THIS IS A MEDICINE! We all know that any medicine has both positive and negative properties (side effects, contraindications). Now imagine “the fish has become nitrified,” that is, it has been poisoned by excessive concentrations of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates; it is already feeling bad because there are poisons in the aquarium and here, in addition, we are pouring medicine! The outcome of such treatment is obvious.
From the above, we can draw the obvious conclusion that before starting treatment, all negative factors must be eliminated, and then treated (if necessary).
Below we will develop a specific scheme that will help you step-by-step and correctly carry out the treatment, but before that, let’s deal with one more question - WHAT SPECIFICALLY IS THE FISH SICK AND HOW TO TREAT IT.
When the aquarist understands this material, moreover, sees photos and videos of sores, he will already know approximately which group medicines will help cure the fish. And of course, he will already have an idea of the mechanism and procedure of treatment, which is also important, because some diseases can only be treated in a general aquarium, and some can be treated in a quarantine aquarium, some can be treated by using short-term baths with medicine.
In addition, an initial understanding of the issue will reduce the time before the start of treatment, which often plays an important role in the recovery of the fish - I saw the first signs of the disease, the medicine was already at hand, carried out the preparatory procedures, applied the medicine and the fish quickly recovered. Those. The longer we wait to eliminate negative factors and/or treat them, the greater the likelihood of fish death.
In our opinion, at first the aquarist should rely on advice and positive reviews about this or that medicine. Well, gradually, little by little, gain experience, compare the compositions of drugs, which will ultimately give an understanding of which of the drugs is effective in a particular case.
Below are the names of the most commonly used drugs, popular German brands Tetra And Sera :
Tetra Contralck,Sera costapur- from ciliates, flagellates (ichthyophthyriosis).
sera baktopur,Tetra General Tonic- from external bacterial infections.
Sera baktopur direct,Sera bakto Tabs- from internal bacterial infections.
Sera mycopur- from flexible
Questions are often asked on the forum: is it possible to treat fish with “human medicines”. The answer is yes. After all, in fact, all branded drugs are the same “human medicines” only in a adjusted proportion and combination. The danger of such treatment lies only in the fact that you need to clearly know and apply the appropriate dosages. For more details about this, see: antibiotics for aquariums, other medications.
And one more thing, because often fish suffer from a whole “bouquet of diseases” or a secondary infection develops after a primary one. For example, let’s say there was damage to fish tissue from a bacterial infection, do you think the “fungal villains” will take advantage of this opportunity? Of course yes. From this, we can conclude that sometimes it is not worth looking for a specific “villain”, but treating it comprehensively.
Let's talk about it all again and give a brief outline of actions for treating fish.
SECOND BLOCK, TREATMENT: After preparatory activities, let's start treatment. We develop a regimen and follow the instructions for the medications.
Attention!!! Sometimes, especially in severe cases of the disease, when the medicine is administered, the fish becomes worse and often dies soon. Most likely, in such cases, the factor of fish exhaustion and the influence of the negative properties of the drug are triggered, which aggravates the situation. Therefore, after you have applied the medicine, you need to closely monitor the behavior of the fish and, if anything, remove the medicine by reducing the dosage. In such cases, it is possible to recommend gradual administration of drugs - in parts, and not once in a full dose.
THIRD BLOCK, REHABILITATION AND RESTORATION OF BIO-BALANCE: After completing the course of treatment, all medications are removed from the aquarium by replacing part of the water with fresh water and adding aquarium carbon to the filter. You should always remember that any drug destroys the biobalance, that is, it has a detrimental effect not only on the pathogenic, but also on the beneficial environment. In this connection, after treating fish in a general aquarium, you need to start restoring a healthy environment. Drugs such as: Bactozyme, Tetra NitrateMinus, Sulfur Nitrivic etc.
In addition, you need to take care of restoring the immunity of the fish that has just recovered from illness, which is achieved by adding vitamins to the water and food, for example, Sera Fishtamina or Tetra Vitala, you can also use tea or other herbal medicine or use the same iodinol.
We hope that this material was interesting and useful.
Health to your pets.
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NAVIGATOR 3
interview with an ichthyopathologist
We present to your attention the third edition of the “Aquarium Navigator for Beginners”. We decided to devote this issue to a pressing aquarium problem - diseases and treatment of fish. Everyone, both beginners and professionals, faces the problem of identifying diseases. Even an experienced aquarist is sometimes unable to identify a particular disease: the pathogen changes, the symptoms change.
What should a newbie do who has encountered this problem for the first time?!
We hope this brochure will help you understand everything.
Let me present to your attention!
Veterinarian - ichthyopathologist Vera Dudina, leading specialist of one of largest networks pet stores in Russia, third generation ichthypathologist.
Vera kindly agreed to be interviewed for our brochure.
Any healthy body ready to independently fight back any pathogenic flora! Immunity is a shield that protects its owner from any enemies. But you need to understand that vitality and immunity are not eternal. If the shield constantly works in the “attack repelling” mode, it will eventually crack and then completely crumble. And then, a countless pathogenic horde will burst into the body, capture and destroy it.
In addition, it should be said that one of the reasons that destroys immunity is stress from overpopulation of the aquarium, stress associated with incompatibility of fish, not proper feeding, improper care, lack of proper filtration and aeration of the aquarium, high concentrations of protein breakdown products, poisons such as ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.
All these negative factors can work both together and separately, but one way or another, they destroy the fish’s immune system day after day.
It's corny, but best medicine- this is prevention. Proper care, appropriate water parameters, correct selection of fish are the key to the health and longevity of aquarium inhabitants.
However, none of us are immune from aquarium disasters. Anything can happen, and even in ideal conditions, fish can get sick. What to do?
A brief plan of action in a critical situation.
Carry out a thorough diagnosis of the disease.
The saying “Measure twice, cut once” in to the fullest refers to the definition of fish sores. What kind of diseases does the newbie find in his charges? Almost like Jerome K. Jerome has “everything but puerperal fever.” In order not to make a mistake in diagnosis, it is necessary to know the usual behavior of the fish, behavior under stressful conditions, spawning behavior, conditions of detention, body shape, colors, inherent this species and much, much more. Sometimes soft-water fish are kept in cichlid conditions, which causes the fish to lose their fins, and the owner also additionally treats the fish for fin rot. The outcome of such treatment is obvious. If you have carefully studied the entire list above and are still in doubt, please visit our forum section
Make the decision about treatment immediately. 90% of diseases are curable at an early stage. And vice versa, even the most simple illness in the terminal stage, cannot be treated.
Test before treatment aquarium water for the presence of poisons: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates (NH4, NO2, NO3).
In case of deviation from the norm, poisons are immediately removed by water changes and appropriate aquarium preparations. For more information, see the forum. The fact is that medications both heal and destroy, i.e. have both positive and negative influence on the body. Their use is incompatible with high concentrations of poisons, and, in most cases, they kill the fish.
Carry out the course of treatment in accordance with the diagnosis , exclusively with recommended drugs in carefully adjusted dosages, in accordance with the specified time frames.
At the end of treatment (if it took place in a community aquarium and not in a quarantine aquarium), it is necessary to remove medicinal preparations(substitutions or filtering agents) and begin to restore biological balance, using biostarters if possible.
Additional materials for self-study:
And now, the promised interview with Vera Dudina.
Hello Vera, thank you for agreeing to give an interview.
Please tell me, what branded and pharmacy drugs do you recommend purchasing in the “Aquarium First Aid Kit” so that they are always at hand?
As you know, about 90% of the problems of a novice aquarist are the fault of the aquarist himself. This includes overfeeding, overcrowding, and impatience at launch. Hence the main problem is water quality. Therefore, it is imperative to have an emergency protection against toxins (ammonia and nitrites). Drugs are used to neutralize themSera ToxivecorAPI Ammolock.
To monitor the content of nitrogenous compounds, drop tests for ammonia and nitrites should be available. I will emphasize here, since most beginners underestimate the importance of aquarium tests. Often, infectious diseases and poisoning with toxic protein breakdown products are very similar in symptoms. Even a specialist will not always be able to differentiate them, as they say, “by eye.”
As for infectious diseases, sooner or later any aquarist will encounter ichthyophthirius. The earlier treatment is started, the higher the likelihood of success and the shorter the duration of drug administration. There are quite a lot of drugs for treatment: , Sera Costapur, JBL Punctol, Antipar. In the initial stages of ichthyophthirius, they are all quite effective. For “advanced” cases, a combination of several drugs will be needed. When using a combination of drugs, it is better to consult a specialist, since many drugs cannot be combined with each other, this can cause intoxication in fish.
It is always useful to have a light disinfectant in your first aid kit, which can be added for injuries (after fights) or for mild forms of fin rot. You can use drugs such asAPI Melafix (based on essential oil tea tree) or (colloidal silver solution, not recommended for use in combination with other drugs and conditioners).
This is the main set. The rest is more highly specialized and is purchased as needed.
So, what drugs are better for beginners to use, branded or pharmacy?
Branded preparations are designed specifically for fish, most of them are carefully tested in specialized laboratories. I recommend that a person without relevant experience use only them. If the funds available in pet stores are not enough (as well as when making a diagnosis), it is better to consult with a specialist to clarify the diagnosis and prescribe a course of treatment.
Before contacting a specialist, prepare anamnestic data:
The volume of the aquarium, its population.
How long has the aquarium been open?
Cleaning schedule, when was the last cleaning, what part of the water did you change.
Frequency of feeding, what and how much you feed, how quickly the fish eats the food, have there been any changes in appetite recently.
What manipulations have been carried out over the past couple of weeks: new inhabitants, new decor, change of food, some other innovations...
Water parameters: pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, hardness if possible are required in aquarium water. In tap water (or where you get water for the aquarium from) - pH, preferably ammonia and nitrites (it also happens, unfortunately, that the cause of sores is the quality of tap water), hardness if possible.
Symptoms: when they appeared, who is sick, the full picture, preferably with a photo.
Based on your practice, what are the most common fish diseases and how do you treat them?
If you look specifically at the aquariums of beginners and amateurs, then the most common problem, as I already said, is ammonia and nitrite poisoning. Here the basis of treatment is the normalization of living conditions. Of the drugs usedSera ToxivecorAPI Ammolock(I have already spoken about their purpose) and bacterial culture, for example, . The rest of the treatment is to eliminate overcrowding, do not feed the fish (on average 2-4 days), daily changes of 10% of the volume.
Treatment of infectious diseases, as a rule, is strictly individual. It depends on the inhabitants, the intensity of the disease, the presence of plants, snails, shrimp and other factors.
Based on the Navigator topic, which fish do you think should not be taken by a beginner?
First of all, I do not recommend taking non-aquarium fish. These are swimmers and giants: sharks, pangasius, red-tailed catfish, snakeheads, armored pikes and many others. Such fish need very specific conditions of detention, large volumes. For many of them, even 500 liters will be catastrophically small.
From experience, beginners very often fail to cope with cichlids. Fish are aggressive, capricious, and territorial. Feeding varies greatly depending on the species. Improper feeding - common reason intestinal disorders and hexamitosis. Their content requires a fairly solid theoretical basis and practical experience.
The most important thing is not to forget that the flight of your imagination is strictly limited by the volume of the aquarium and the compatibility of the inhabitants with each other. Never buy an unfamiliar fish spontaneously because you like it. Find out its name, look at the information at home about maintenance requirements, maximum sizes, compatibility, if after that you understand that the fish is yours, you can go buy it.
The main secret is not a secret, but a rule: ensure good conditions of detention. Avoid overcrowding, schooling fish are kept in schools, those who hide have enough shelter, small and big fish not kept together, balanced proper feeding, clean and safe water. All this is a prevention of stress, and as a result, a decrease in immunity.
Iodine and vitamins affect fish immunity; these components are contained in the company’s conditionerTetra - . This drug can be used on a regular basis, weekly, after changing the water.
On the Internet you can find information about the use (as a light antiseptic, to accelerate regeneration), “Vetoma 1.1” (as an adjuvant in complex treatment, the bacteria included in its composition synthesize interferon - a protein, a factor of nonspecific antiviral immunity), human recombinant interferon and roncoleukin (also immunomodulatory drugs with antiviral activity).
Often fish become ill with one disease, say a bacterial infection, and then contract a secondary infection - a fungal infection. In this regard, the question arises - can then in all cases be treated “with everything and immediately”. That is, immediately apply both bactericidal and fungicidal drugs? Or is it still better to treat in strict accordance with the symptoms?
The main principle of any treatment is “do no harm.” Very often there are cases when fish (and not only fish) die not from disease, but from treatment. Many medications cannot be combined at all. If there is a suspicion that a combined infection is occurring, it is better to seek help from a specialist to select compatible drugs.
What drug can you recommend in addition to the main treatment, just to be on the safe side? Is it possible to simultaneously treat and use herbal medicine?
Iodine stimulates the immune system well. When treating, add an alcohol infusion of iodine - 5 drops per 100 liters or - 1 ml per 10 liters. Be careful, an overdose of iodine is unacceptable and deadly! You can use a branded drug (according to instructions).
Often in the aquarium where treatment is carried out, in addition to sick fish, there are aquarium plants, shrimp and snails. You can get snails for the period of treatment, but not always plants and shrimp. Tell me, what medications do you think are well tolerated by plants and crustaceans? What drugs are definitely contraindicated in such cases?
You should definitely not use copper or preparations containing it. Refrain from using products whose ingredients are not specified. Plants and invertebrates react poorly to nitrofuran preparations:Sera baktopur direct, Antibak Pro, furazolidone, furatsilin.
There is experience in treating ichthyophthyriosis in an aquarium with plants and shrimp with the drugSera Costapur. Among the antibiotics, the herbalist used enrofloxacin (a veterinary drug). Preparations based on essential oils- API Melafix andAPI Pimafix.
You can often find information on the Internet that when adding medication and carrying out treatment, you need to turn off the aquarium lighting. For example, drugs such as Sera bactopur direct and the antibiotic metronidazole. So, is it necessary to turn off the lighting during treatment or not? If so, why and for which drugs?
Many antibiotics degrade when exposed to light. That’s why they write in the instructions that they need to be stored in a dark place, and medicine jars are traditionally made of dark glass. Bicillin-5 and nitrofurans (Sera bactopur direct, Antibak Pro, furazolidone) are definitely decomposed. There is no data on how quickly this process occurs. If possible, it is of course better to turn off the lights.
How do you feel about UV sterilizers as a means of disease prevention?
Please tell us about the typical signs (symptoms) of a particular disease? So that beginners can better navigate.
Many diseases have very similar symptoms, and it is not always possible to determine a diagnosis. Sometimes the diagnosis cannot be made without microscopy or even an autopsy.
I will tell you about the symptoms that you should definitely pay attention to, without reference to diagnoses. I wouldn’t want my tip to later treat diarrhea with sleeping pills.
So, what should you pay attention to? Not only from your own fish, but also when purchased in a store.
Behavior: heavy breathing, the fish stands on the flow of oxygen or “smokes” near the surface. It lies on the bottom, is not active, or, on the contrary, moves unnaturally abruptly and rushes about. Scratching on the ground and decorations. Fish, which usually stays in plain sight, begins to hide and strives for solitude.
Feeding. Refusal of food. The fish repeatedly takes and spits out the food. Exhaustion may be observed, for example, a sunken stomach, shrunken backs, unnaturally large eyes, and protruding skull bones.
Damage to mucous membranes and scales. First reaction to aggressive influence environment- increased mucus secretion. First, bubbles begin to stick to the fish’s body (this can often be seen when placing fish in a new aquarium; this is the result of stress from changes in water parameters). Then dull grayish accumulations of mucus appear, gradually increasing in size. On the body you can see erosions, ulcers, hemorrhages, necrosis (death of tissue). Sometimes scales fall out on the affected areas.
Lesions on the gills. The fish is breathing heavily, and mucus may be released from under the gill covers. Often the fish floats up and stands near the surface, “smoking.” The gills may become unnaturally red, or vice versa - pale.
Fin lesions. The so-called "fin rot" - white coating, as if eating fins. Sometimes only the tissue between the rays is affected, while the rays themselves remain.
These are the main symptoms that should alert you. In fact, there are many more of them; carefully observe the behavior and condition of your pets in order to identify the disease in time.
90% of novice aquarists whose fish is sick have an increased concentration of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the aquarium. In this case, as a rule, the patient already has a moderate or even severe stage of the disease. What is the best thing for a beginner to do in such a situation: remove poisons and treat at the same time? Remove poisons and then treat? Or do you immediately start treatment at your own risk?
In practice, there was such a case - they brought two goldfish from a round aquarium. The fish had terrible ammonia burns; they did not leave the surface of the water and were breathing frequently. Despite all this, they were struck by ichthyophthirius. It is important to weigh the risks here. Almost any medicine will kill a fish in such a serious condition, so the temperature in the aquarium was lowered a little to slow down the development of ichthyophthirius and relieve intoxication. Used drugsSera ToxivecAndAPI Melafix. A week later, the gills began to heal and the fish swam in the water column. Only after that we raised the temperature again and treated ichthyophthirius.
In each specific case, the decision will be made individually, depending on the condition of the water, fish, intensity of the process, and other conditions.
Sometimes fish are injured from fights and skirmishes with neighbors or, for example, when a viral growth forms on the fin, it is stopped. What drug do you recommend for speedy wound healing?
Again, any disinfectant: API Melafix and API Pimafix, almond leaves, oak bark decoction, tea. IN as a last resort- methylene blue or trypoflavin.
Please give some parting words to novice aquarists.
Of course, I would like you to avoid all these troubles. However, as practice shows, sooner or later diseases visit every aquarium. The most important thing is not to delay treatment. Sometimes the count is not even in days, but in hours. A disease that was easily treated yesterday becomes fatal today.
And, of course, health to you and your pets!
Dear reader! Below, we have prepared for you additional materials on the issue of fish diseases and aquarium hydrochemistry, they will help you study the topic discussed in this brochure even more deeply.
Fish diseases.
Basics of aquarium hydrochemistry.
Diseases of fish (and not only) are divided into two large groups- diseases are contagious and non-contagious.
Infectious diseases have a specific pathogen (it can be a bacterium, virus, fungus, etc.) and are transmitted from an infected individual (or from an intermediate host) to a healthy one.
Non-communicable diseases are various injuries, congenital pathologies and diseases caused by violation of living conditions. To know the reasons for their appearance and be able to distinguish a contagious disease from a non-contagious one, you need to understand the basics chemical processes occurring in the aquarium.
Let's take a closer look at each group of diseases.
Non-communicable diseases.
This is a broad group of diseases, which includes injuries, congenital pathologies and diseases caused by violation of living conditions. In a hobbyist's aquarium, the majority of diseases are non-contagious! Very often they are confused with fungal and bacterial infections. Be careful! The treatment of contagious and non-contagious diseases is fundamentally different and incompatible with each other. Wrong diagnosis and incorrect treatment in in this case can seriously harm the inhabitants of the aquarium.
In this topic, we will get acquainted with diseases caused by impaired nitrogen metabolism:
Ammonia and ammonium poisoning;
Nitrite poisoning;
Nitrate poisoning, nitrate shock;
Nitrogen cycle:
It is not for nothing that many experienced aquarists consider the nitrogen cycle to be the basis. The ability to create and maintain biological balance in an aquarium is the best prevention of most ailments. What is hidden behind the terrible phrase? nitrogen cycle? Let's figure it out.
We all know that fish love to eat... They love to eat. The truism is that everything that has been eaten will come out sooner or later. Fish excrement, uneaten food, corpses and dead parts of plants are all biological waste that begin to decompose in water under the influence of various microorganisms.
Any protein contains nitrogen (N), the decomposition products of nitrogen are extremely toxic to fish, and therefore, in order to avoid serious poisoning, it is necessary to understand how the nitrogen cycle works.
Ammonia/Ammonia.
Ammonia (NH₃) is the first stage of protein decomposition. Ammonia is a poisonous gas, easily and large quantities dissolves in water.
IN acidic environment Most of the ammonia combines with hydrogen to form ammonium ion (NH₄¯). It is believed that ammonium is non-toxic, but this is not true. Ammonium has all the properties of ammonia, it just acts a little slower.
Where does excess ammonia come from? How is it neutralized in an aquarium? How to recognize ammonia poisoning in fish? How to help fish in case of poisoning?
MPC = 0 mg/l
* Maximum permissible concentration of a substance that is safe for life and health.
Causes of ammonia poisoning:
Overfeeding;
Overpopulation;
Insufficient aeration;
100% water change;
Predisposing factors:
Small volume;
Goldfish;
Treatment with antibiotics;
What questions will help us find out that there may be ammonia poisoning in the aquarium?
What is the volume of the aquarium? Who lives in it? This way you can draw conclusions about overpopulation, if any.
How do you feed - how many times a day and in what quantity?
How long has the aquarium been running? Perhaps the aquarium is new, in which case it is more susceptible to ammonia outbreaks.
How often do you change the water? How much water do you change? Often, novice aquarists, in pursuit of clean water, change it completely, and the most enthusiastic ones also boil the soil.
The symptoms of ammonia poisoning are quite clear and characteristic:
A large amount of mucus on the body;
The fish “itches” against the ground and decorations;
Reddened gills;
The fish stands on the flow of oxygen;
Hemorrhages in the gills and at the base of the fins;
The fish is breathing heavily;
The water takes on a whitish tint;
With severe overfeeding, the water acquires a yellow-brown tint and a putrid odor;
The diagnosis is confirmed by testing the water for ammonia;
Diagnostics:
Anamnesis collection (feeding regimen, care, volume, population, clinical signs...)
Testing water using ammonia/ammonium tests.
Treatment:
Daily ¼ water changes.
Normalize filtration and increase aeration (the filter sponge is the substrate on which bacteria live; the larger it is, the better; bacteria need oxygen to decompose ammonia and nitrites).
Nitrites.
MPC = 0.2 mg/l
Nitrites (NO₂) - are formed from ammonia in the presence sufficient quantity bacteria (Nitrosomonas).
Nitrites are also toxic to fish, but their toxicity is much lower than that of ammonia. They can cause chronic, practically asymptomatic poisoning.
Like ammonia, they are effectively removed from water only with the help of bacteria (Nitrobacter).
The causes of nitrite poisoning and its treatment will be largely similar to ammonia poisoning. However, diagnosing it is much more difficult, since there are practically no obvious symptoms. An accurate diagnosis can only be made based on the results of water testing.
Causes of nitrite poisoning:
Overfeeding;
Overpopulation;
Insufficient filter power;
Insufficient aeration;
Insufficient amount of soil;
Incorrect start-up of the aquarium;
100% water change;
Predisposing factors:
Small volume;
Goldfish;
Treatment with antibiotics;
High water hardness, high level pH (cichlids);
Symptoms:
As a rule, there are no specific symptoms;
Regular singular case;
The fish is lethargic, standing with its nose buried in the corner of the aquarium;
The fish don't eat well;
The fins are compressed, the color fades or darkens;
There may be a small amount of mucus on the fish's body;
Treatment similar to treatment for ammonia poisoning (but nitrites persist in water much longer, so treatment may take longer):
Do not feed for 2-3 days! (To stop the processes of decomposition and the formation of excess ammonia).
Eliminate overpopulation if there are too many fish.
Daily ¼ water changes (no more).
SERA toxivec (this drug binds ammonia into a non-toxic form and protects the mucous membranes of fish from aggressive environmental influences).
sera bio nitrivec, Tetra Safe Start (cultures of live bacteria that naturally decompose ammonia and nitrites).
Normalize filtration and increase aeration (the filter sponge is the substrate on which bacteria live, the larger it is, the better; bacteria need oxygen to decompose ammonia and nitrites).
Nitrates.
MPC = 25-100 mg/l.
Nitrates (NO₃) are the end product of nitrogen decomposition. They are removed from water by water changes or consumed by plants as a source of nitrogen.
Accumulating in large quantities in the aquarium (rare water changes, or their complete absence) can cause nitrate poisoning. When transplanting fish from a safe aquarium to an aquarium with high concentration nitrates, the so-called “nitrate shock” can be observed.
Maximum permissible concentrations vary for different fish - on average it is 50 mg/l, for unpretentious fish (zebrafish, local breeds of guppies) up to 100 mg/l, capricious fish (discus, clown botia) - 25 mg/l.
Causes of nitrate poisoning:
Rare or no water changes
Predisposing factors:
Overpopulation.
Overfeeding
Lack of living plants.
Symptoms:
The fish is “dragged” and grows poorly;
Viviparous fish stop spawning;
New fish “do not go” to the aquarium; they experience “nitrate shock” ( acute poisoning and sudden death within 1-3 days);
Diagnostics:
Anamnesis collection (feeding regimen, care, volume, population, clinical signs...).
Testing water using nitrate tests.
Treatment:
Regular water changes.
If long time the water in the aquarium has not changed, the soil has not siphoned - before the first cleaning, it is necessary to press on the soil in several places, check for bubbles (methane and hydrogen sulfide are formed in the soil in the absence of oxygen, as in a swamp). If bubbles appear, you need to carefully drain most of the water, transplant the fish there, and then rinse the soil (otherwise hydrogen sulfide kills the fish within 15 seconds). The old water is poured back into the aquarium, then fresh water is added.
Planting live plants minimizes the accumulation of nitrates in the water.
Contagious diseases.
Infectious diseases have a specific pathogen and can be transmitted from a sick individual to a healthy one.
Depending on the type of pathogen, contagious fish diseases are divided into several groups:
Protozoan diseases (ichthyophthyriosis, costiosis, hexamitosis, oodiniosis...).
Bacterial diseases (flexibacteriosis, aeromonosis...).
Fungal diseases (saprolegniosis...).
Viral diseases (lymphocystosis...).
Let's look at each group separately.
Protozoal diseases:
Ichthyophthiriasis: Also known under the names “Semolina”, “ichtik”, “White spot disease”, “Ich”, “Ick”.
The symptoms are very characteristic - white dots up to 1 mm in diameter appear on the body of the fish.
Development cycle:
Tomont. It is covered with a shell - a cyst, thanks to which it is practically invulnerable to unfavorable conditions environment. Viable ichthyophthirius cysts have even been found in tap water! Depending on the conditions, the cyst either falls asleep or the tomont in it begins to actively divide.
Tomont is divided, forming up to 1000 daughter cells(trophozoites or wanderers).
Tramps dissolve the cyst and end up in the water. The life expectancy of a tramp is two days. During this time, it must find a host (then the development cycle will repeat) or it dies.
Features of tropical forms:
Tropical ichthyophthirius, eastern ichthyophthirius, “easterner”.
At the moment, many ichthyopathologists separately identify the so-called “tropical ichthyophthirius”. Unlike the cold-water form, it is extremely stable and very difficult to treat.
The development cycle occurs entirely on the host’s body, a cyst is formed directly under the epithelial tubercle, the tubercle ruptures, and the strays spread out and immediately penetrate under the epithelium.
The rash is small and barely noticeable.
The rash is located in clusters.
Resistant to high temperatures (up to 32°C).
Resistant to many drugs (use FMC, furazolidone).
Costiosis (ichthyobodosis):
The causative agent is the flagellate Costia (Ichthyobodo) necatrix.
The fish “itches” against the stones.
Gray-blue matte spots appear on the body.
When the gills are damaged, the fish breathes heavily.
The fins stick together a lot.
The fish swims near the surface with characteristic “twitching” movements.
An accurate diagnosis can only be made based on the results microscopic examination scrapings
Treatment:
- Sera costapur 1 ml per 40 l (every other day) + Sera mycopur 1 ml per 40 l - half the dose indicated in the instructions (daily).
- Baths with potassium permanganate and salt: 2% saline solution(2 teaspoons of salt per 1 liter of water), potassium permanganate until a clear pink, but not intense, color, hold for 10-15 minutes.
Oodiniosis:
Oodiniosis, corduroy disease, gold dust, colisis disease.
The causative agent is flagellates of the genus Oodinium.
Symptoms:
The body of the fish becomes “rough”.
The rash is practically invisible to the naked eye; under a magnifying glass you can see the characteristic golden dust.
Outwardly, it is very similar to the tropical form of ichthyophthirius.
Development cycle:
Division of a tomont in a cyst into 256 tomites.
Formation of dinospores (gymnospores).
Treatment:
1. Bicillin-5: pH not lower than 6.5, t from 24°C, light does not turn on. 1-1.5 million units per 100 liters of water. The next day, change 30% of the water and add a full dose of bicillin. The third treatment is after two days and the last one is after 7 days.
2. Heavy metal preparations (especially copper) - “Formamed” works well, used according to the instructions.
Hexamitosis:
Octomitosis, spironucleosis, hole-in-the-head disease, discus disease.
Symptoms:
Transparent-whitish, often thread-like and often viscous mucous excrement.
Decreased appetite. Then refusal of food. In mild cases, fish “spit” by repeatedly taking food into their mouths and then spitting it out.
Some increase (bloating) in the abdominal area (not always observed). Then the fish begin to lose weight and their belly takes on a characteristic keeled or concave shape, and their back dries out. The fins stick together a lot.
Darkening of color, solitude.
Erosion and ulceration of the scalp and changes appearance lateral line (perforated disease).
Treatment:
1.Hyperthermal treatment: raise the temperature to 33-35°C. The last resort when the fish is in serious condition is not to eat. Raise by no more than 3-4° per day.
2. Metronidazole (Trichopol): 250 mg per 35 liters. For three days, medications are added every day after a water change (up to 25%). Then every other day, changing about 10-15% of the water. Course 12-15 days!
3. Metronidazole + ciprofloxacin (enroxil, baytril): metronidazole for large adult (not emaciated!) cichlids - 1 table. (250 mg) per 15 l. water, for small species and young cichlids - 1 table. for 25-30 l, full dose daily after changing 50% of the water volume. Ciprofloxacin - 500 mg per 50 l (enroxil/baytril 5% - 1 ml per 10 l). After 3 days, the medications are administered in half the dose.
Bacterial diseases:
The causative agents of this group of diseases are bacteria. These are also unicellular microorganisms, but unlike Protozoa, they are more simply structured, do not have a nucleus, and, as a rule, are much smaller in size.
Columnaria:
Flexibacteriosis, fin rot, “gray saddle”, “cotton mouth disease”, “Asian”, aquarium plague.
Pathogen: BacteriaFlexibacter Columnaris .
Strictly aerobic (requires oxygen).
Warm water (temperature increase during treatment is unacceptable).
Gram-negative (a group of antibiotics with a spectrum of action on gram-negative microorganisms is selected for treatment).
Non-halophilic (does not live in salt water).
Opportunistic (cause disease only under stressful conditions).
It can even occur in good conditions, with sufficient aeration.
Predisposing factors are overcrowding, stress, transportation.
Symptoms:
White spots about 5 mm; Over time, the white area increases.
A white-gray cotton wool-like coating (similar to the fungus Saprolegnia) or growth, as if “eating” the skin of the fish.
Necrosis (premature death of living tissue cells) of the fins, which is accompanied by a white coating and fluff-like accumulations of bacteria.
Sometimes areas of the fish's body affected by Columnaris bacteria darken almost black or take on the color of flesh (meat).
A “saddle-shaped” (saddle-like) affected area in the dorsal fin area, which gives the disease its second name, “gray saddle.”
On the gills, Columnaris can cause the gill filaments to disintegrate and their color may change to light or dark brown. In this case, rapid breathing is observed, and the fish can rise to the surface of the water, where the oxygen concentration is higher.
Treatment regimen:
Ciprofloxacin- water-soluble forms (“Cifran”) are used, other tablets are practically insoluble in water. Dose - 500 mg per 50 liters of water. Apply daily before turning off the lights in full dose for 3-7 days. Negative effects on the blood-forming organs, excretory system, CNS. If not correct dosage after the use of Ciprofloxacin, strains appear that are absolutely not susceptible to all antibiotics.
Antibak(ciprofloxacin) - 1 tablet per 100 - 200 liters of water. Apply daily before turning off the lights in full dose for 3-7 days.
Enroxil (Baytril)- 5% solution - 1 ml per 10 liters of water. Apply daily in full dose for 3-7 days. Less toxic than ciprofloxacin.
Small fish ( blue neon, rhodostomus) - enroxil (baytril) 5% 1 ml per 10 l once (or twice with an interval of 12 hours) for preventive purposes immediately after disembarking from the bags.
Levomycetin- 1 tablet (0.5 g) per 10 liters of water. It is applied once every 3 days. Course up to 3 weeks.
SERA mycopur
Contains acriflavine, which is active against Flexibacter Columnaris in the early stages of the disease.
Prevents secondary contamination with fungal infections.
Apply daily in a dose of 1 ml per 20 liters (1 drop per 1 liter of water).
Used as an auxiliary drug in addition to antibiotics.
Doxycycline + Biseptol-480
Doxycycline - 2 capsules (200 mg) per 100 liters of water. It is applied once every 3 days. Course up to 3 weeks. Daily change of 25-30% of water, and add 100 mg per 100 l (1 capsule) of doxycycline.
Biseptol-480 - 1.5 tablets per 100 liters. Then daily 0.5 tablets per 100 liters.
Course 5 - 7 days (up to 10).
API PimaFix
Antifungal agent on a natural basis (baia essential oil).
In the early stages it is able to influence the pathogen. Stimulates the immunity of fish. Prevents secondary fungal infections.
Apply daily at the rate of 5 ml per 38 liters, as an adjuvant together with an antibiotic.
Auxiliary means:
Salt
Viviparous, goldfish, tetradons, monodactyls, argus - 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.
Scaleless - 1 tbsp. l. per 40 liters of water, with caution, under supervision general condition fish.
The rest of the fish - 1 tbsp. l. For 20 liters of water.
Strictly! Prepare mother liquor. It is poured into the aquarium in 3-4 stages with an interval of 30-60 minutes. Salt-sensitive fish should be monitored for several hours.
The water temperature gradually drops to 22-24°C during treatment.
Aeromonosis:
Carp rubella, abdominal dropsy, ruffled scales.
Pathogen: bacteriaAeromonas punktata .
Carp rubella is also called a wide group of diseases caused not only by Aeromonas bacteria, but also by pseudomonas (Pseudomonas fluorescens), a viral disease - spring viremia of carp).
The causative agent is a strict anaerobe (does not require oxygen in the water for respiration), so the disease is more common in aquariums with poor aeration, in old acidic water, under poor conditions and regular overfeeding.
Widely distributed in the middle zone, can be introduced with live food.
Cold-water, does not like high temperatures.
Symptoms:
The fish is lethargic. Does not respond to stimuli. Stops eating. First it collects at the surface of the water, then falls to the bottom.
Ruffling of scales: at the beginning of the disease, the scales of the fish rise, after some time the ruffling spreads throughout the body and the scales begin to fall out.
Abdominal hydrops: the abdomen is swollen and inflamed anal hole.
Bug-eyed.
Hemorrhagic ulcers: bloody spots appear on the body and fins, then they ulcerate. The ulcers are blood-red with a white border.
Treatment regimens.
Ronkoleikin
Ronkoleikin- at the rate of 50,000-100,000 units per 10 liters, 3-4 applications every other day.
Stimulates the immunity of fish, suitable as an adjuvant in the treatment of any type of rubella in cyprinids.
Ciprofloxacin, Antibak, Enroxil, Baytril.
All drugs are active against aeromonosis and pseudomonosis, treatment regimens are the same as for columnaris.
Doxycycline + Levomycetin + Nystatin.
This combination is used in severe cases in the presence of large ulcerative lesions.
Doxycycline - 1 capsule 100 mg per 30-35 l.
Levomycetin - 500 mg per 20 l.
Nystatin - 200,000 units. for 30 -35 l.
Apply every other day, after changing 1/3 of the water.
Increase aeration.
Course 10-30 days.
Nitrofuran drugs: furazolidone,Sera baktopur direct.
Sera baktopur direct 1 tablet per 50 liters of water every 3 days, after changing 30-50% of the water. Can be used in the form of short-term baths - 1 tablet per 2 liters of water, soak for 30 minutes. The drug is extremely toxic.
Furazolidone 1 tablet (50 mg) per 10-20 liters every other day.
Nitrofuran drugs can be combined with antibiotics, such as chloramphenicol or ciprofloxacin.
Argulez:The causative agent is the gill-tailed crustacean Argulus (carp eater, carp louse).
Heat-loving.
Size 4-8 mm.
They feed on the blood of fish.
The female lays about 250-300 eggs on glass, decor or other substrate; the eggs develop in 3-5 weeks depending on the temperature.
The larvae, having hatched from the eggs, swim freely for 2-3 days, look for fish, and if they don’t find them, they die.
Treatment:
Lerneosis:
The causative agent is the copepod Lerna (Lernaea cyprinaceaAndLernaea elegans).
One female carries 1,400 eggs (two egg sacs of 700 eggs each) every 2 weeks for 16 weeks.
The larvae swim freely in water until puberty.
Treatment:
2. Specialized products - sera Argulol, JBL Aradol Plus.
Gyrodactylosis:
Pathogens - monogenetic flukes of the familyGyrodactylidae.
The fish becomes slimy and the fins stick together.
Characteristic “twitching” movements appear.
Treatment:
Praziquantel-based drugs:
Dactylogyrosis:
Pathogens are monogenetic flukes of the familiesDactylogyridae.
Species specific (infect strictly certain type fish).
They feed on mucus from the fish's body (they do not feed on blood).
The gills are pale pink, swollen, and anemia develops.
Mucus is visible from under the gill covers.
The fish refuses to eat, hangs near the surface, and breathes heavily.
Treatment:
1.Sera med Professional Tremazol, JBL Gyrodol Plus, JBL Gyrodol 2, JBL GyroPond (according to instructions).
2. Azipirin, Azinox, Drontal - 1 tablet per 10-15 liters of water, once, exposure for 24 hours, increase aeration, after 24 hours change 50% of water. In particularly advanced cases, a second treatment can be carried out according to the same scheme.
Fungal diseases.
The causative agents of this group of diseases are lower fungi. Fungal diseases, as a rule, are not independent diseases. They appear as secondary infections when the skin is damaged.
“Cotton wool disease” (saprolegniosis):
The causative agent is fungi of the genusSaprolegnia,Achyla et al.
Symptoms:
Fluffy growths, usually white or whitish, consist of individual threads.
As a rule, the infection is secondary and develops when the skin is damaged.
Treatment:
1.Improving living conditions.
2. Treatment of the underlying disease.
3.Specific preparations (Sera mycopur, according to instructions)
Viral diseases.
The causative agents of this group of diseases are viruses. These are the smallest microorganisms consisting of a protein shell and nucleic acid(DNA or RNA). In ichthyopathology, there is no specific treatment for viral diseases. The immune system is stimulated and symptomatic treatment is carried out.
Lymphocystosis (grape nodularity):
The causative agent is a virusLymphocystis
Symptoms:
Small white, gray-white or pinkish growths, most often on the fins, but also on the head and body.
Treatment:
1. There is no specific treatment; as a rule, it is enough to improve the living conditions, and the disease goes away on its own. For complete recovery it takes 1.5-2 months.
2. Sometimes surgery is used (if the tumor interferes with eating or swimming).
3. To stimulate the immune system, you can add iodine () to the water, for especially valuable fish - Roncoleukin at the rate of 50,000-100,000 units per 10 liters, 3-4 applications every other day.
Making a diagnosis and choosing treatment:
It is not always possible to make an accurate diagnosis at home, without a microscope. Let's look at different options:
Option 1: you managed to make an accurate diagnosis.
We carry out treatment according to the scheme for this disease.
Option 2: you see that there are deviations from the normal state, but it is impossible to make an accurate diagnosis.
2.Intestinal infections: Feed in small portions 2-3 times a day, preferably live food or frozen. Dissolve metronidazole and chloramphenicol in the food, 1 tablet for every 4-5 cubes of bloodworms, course 1-2 weeks. You can add metronidazole to water: 1 tablet 250 mg per 40 liters (daily or every other day depending on the severity of the disease), course 2 weeks.
We monitor the effectiveness of the treatment used and make adjustments if necessary.
Important! It is necessary to take into account information about the content and, if possible, test the water for the most important indicators, because poisoning with nitrogenous compounds, acidosis and alkalosis are “masked” as infectious diseases. In this case, using medications will worsen the situation!
Drug compatibility:
Not all drugs can be combined with each other. When combining medications, you must consider:
Medicines cannot be used together with Tetra AquaSafe, Sera aqutan, Sera toxivec conditioners (conditioners protect the mucous membranes of fish, reducing the availability of medicines, and neutralize some medicines).
Medicines cannot be used in conjunction with UV treatment (ultraviolet radiation destroys medicines).
During treatment, it is necessary to remove carbon and zeolite from the filter (sorbents neutralize the effect of drugs).
During treatment, there should not be an excess of organic matter in the water ( organic matter when decomposing, they react with many drugs, reducing their concentration in water).
Iodine stimulates the immunity of fish, goes well with most medications, 5% alcohol solution - 5 drops per 100 l.
When combining medications, you cannot combine drugs with the same active ingredient and antibiotics of the same group, for example Ciprofloxacin and Baytril, Sera costapur and Ichthyofor (this leads to overdose and drug poisoning).
Very useful video about treating aquarium fish
Almost every fish aquarium owner has encountered one or another disease in their pets. Fish, like people, have many different ailments, the prevention and treatment of which also differ. Now we will talk about the main diseases of fish, their causes and the main ways to solve this problem.
Diseases caused by pathogens
They are dangerous because they can be transmitted from one individual to another - thus, one infected fish can lead to the death of all the inhabitants of the aquarium. Let's consider the main types of such ailments.
Bacteria
Bacteria are microorganisms that in most cases are a single cell.
Bacterial diseases in fish are often caused not so much by the presence of pathogenic microorganisms in the aquarium, but by weakened immunity. This can be caused by stress from irritants, fluctuations in water temperature, and aggressive behavior of neighbors.
Main types of bacterial diseases:
Fungi
Fungal pathogens are fungi that infect the body and internal organs fish Fungal growth occurs when the water is too cold and the aquarium is not maintained properly. Preventive measures against them include cleanliness in the aquarium, disinfection of live food and purchasing fish and plants from trusted places.
Important! SometimesIt is difficult to determine the fish disease on your own - in this case, you should contact a specialist ichthyopathologist to conduct tests and make the correct diagnosis.
There are often such fungal diseases fish:
Invasive
Acanthocephals
Treatment is carried out with the help of “Konkurat”, which needs to be used to treat a quarantine aquarium with infected individuals.
A preventative measure for introducing acanthocephalans into an aquarium is a strict ban on feeding pets with live food from ponds with fish.
Coelenterates
Important! When treated with hydrogen peroxide, free oxygen is released, which is harmful to fish, so they must be removed during treatment.
Annelids
Annelids are different types of leeches. For aquarium fish they are enemies, as they can easily destroy the inhabitants of the aquarium. Ringed worms can live in the soil layer, their appearance is facilitated by poor hygiene aquarium
The leeches that have not had time to attach themselves are removed using a net or siphon. An infected aquarium must be treated with organophosphorus compounds, for example, Trichlorfon, removing fish from it during the treatment. After 2-3 weeks, re-treatment is necessary.
Threadworms
When they appear, it is necessary to carry out treatment using antihelminthic drugs, for example, Piperazine. It is also necessary to filter the excrement and remove it with a siphon to prevent re-infestation.
To expel worms, it is necessary to keep the water temperature at 33-35°C for several days. To combat them, the drugs “Flubenol” and “Febtal” are also used, carefully observing the dosage according to the instructions.
Important! Among the natural ways to kill harmful worms, the most effective is to place hungry macropods in the aquarium.
Crustaceans
Crustaceans settle on the surface of the fish and suck out its blood. In addition, in order for the blood to clot faster, they secrete a poisonous secretion, which causes weakness and shock in the fish. And by acting on the gills, they can choke the fish.
Viruses are intracellular pathogens that reproduce only in living cells. They spread to neighboring cells and remain in the body. In this case, even healthy-looking fish becomes a virus carrier. The virus can enter the aquarium from an infected individual.
The most common virus in aquarium fish is lymphocytosis. Its main symptoms are the presence of flat growths and nodules on the body of the fish.
The most severe way to get rid of an infection is to remove and then destroy the diseased individual. Plants in the infected aquarium are also destroyed, and the soil and decorations are boiled for 30 minutes. The aquarium must be disinfected, and all fish must be quarantined for a month.
Protozoa
Protozoa are single-celled organisms that are capable of attacking both outer surface fish and internal tissues. In small quantities they are found on the body of the fish and do not cause them any particular harm.
Did you know? The largest aquarium in the world is located in Singapore, its volume is 54.6 million liters.
The alarm should be sounded if their number increases to a level that can provoke the disease. This is possible in case of weakened immunity due to stress, poor quality water and other unfavorable factors. external factors.
Among the protozoa there are the following organisms:
Diseases that are not caused by pathogens
Fish diseases are not always caused by various pathogens. Often, the causes of diseases can be of physical and chemical origin, and can also be the result of wrong mode feeding. They are not contagious, but each of these reasons deserves special attention.
Physical origin
Diseases of physical origin are mainly associated with improper care of fish: poor quality water, poorly selected temperature conditions. Below are the most common fish diseases caused by this cause.
Alkalosis (pH too high)
Alkalosis is often called alkaline disease due to the fact that the level of acidity in the aquarium increases, which can be harmful to some types of fish. This phenomenon is possible if aquarium inhabitants are kept in conditions with a higher water pH level than in the natural environment.
At the same time, the skin of the fish becomes dull, breathing becomes more frequent, their gills secrete mucus, and the inhabitants of the aquarium themselves tend to jump out of it.
Treatment is carried out using a suitable pH buffer, available in pet stores. Repeated partial replacement of water with fresh water with a pH value close to neutral will help to gradually adjust the pH level. This will reduce the amount of minerals contained in the aquarium that can provoke chronic alkalosis.
A preventive measure for this disease is initially properly selected water for all types of fish, and the inhabitants of the aquarium themselves must be compatible with respect to pH.
Acidosis (pH too low)
In contrast to alkalosis, the opposite situation occurs, a low pH level. A sharp drop in pH usually occurs in an environment that does not contain minerals.
The fish become slow and timid, their color fades. Some individuals swim sideways or belly up. If timely measures are not taken, the inhabitants of the aquarium die.
Did you know? Catfish love to swim with their belly up; for them this is a completely normal phenomenon.
Treatment and preventive measures for this disease are similar to those for alkalosis.
Anoxia (lack of oxygen in fish)
Aquarium inhabitants can become ill with anoxia when the level of oxygen in the water is low. In this case, the fish begin to suffocate and die. You should be wary if pets show anxiety, often swim to the surface of the water and gasp for air.
If pets are observed similar symptoms(and also to prevent this disease), it is necessary to regularly monitor the water filter. It is also necessary to install aeration equipment if it does not already exist.
Anemia (anemia)
Large fish are susceptible to this disease if their place of residence is– small aquariums with poorly aerated water. Another cause of this disease is a low amount of amino acids in food.
The fish becomes lethargic, refuses food, weakness and dystrophy appear. She stops responding to stimuli and appears stuck in the aquarium. Before death, she begins to spin rapidly or hangs upside down.
Unfortunately, it is impossible to cure anemia; fish death cannot be avoided. Measures to prevent this disease include a spacious aquarium and nutritious food, which must be varied with crustaceans or daphnia. Chopped lettuce and nettle leaves will also come in handy.
Asphyxia or suffocation of fish
This problem will affect your pets if they spend a long time in water with a low oxygen content (less than 3 mg per 1 liter of water). The reasons for this are improper maintenance of the aquarium and a large number of fish (more than 1 cm of fish length per 1 liter of water).
The fish experience rapid breathing, rising to the surface of the water and greedily swallowing air.
Infusion of a 15% solution of hydrogen peroxide (1 ml of solution per 1 liter of water) and improving the care of pets will help to cope with this problem.
Gas embolism
This disease is caused by excessive accumulation of water-soluble oxygen, which occurs when plants actively release oxygen in sunny days summer. It enters the fish’s circulatory system in large quantities and clogs the vessels.
Fish become restless, react sharply to external stimuli, and their fins are destroyed. IN in some cases The lens of the eye and cornea become cloudy.
Recovery of infected fish will occur if they are transplanted into an aquarium with an oxygen content of no more than 10-15 mg per 1 liter of water. To protect your pets, you need to avoid intensive aeration of aquarium water with a large number of plants and bright lighting.
Hypoxia (oxygen starvation) of fish
Hypoxia occurs when not enough oxygen enters the fish's blood. It can be triggered by poor living conditions and physiological reasons, such as damaged gills.
The fish's breathing accelerates, they hover and swim at the surface of the water, gasping for air. Then breathing becomes difficult, the gills swell, the pets lose strength and fall to the bottom.
If you notice the fish oxygen starvation, you need to immediately establish powerful aeration so that the oxygen concentration increases. Preventive measures for this phenomenon will be a thorough study of the oxygen needs of pets and timely elimination of factors that can cause hypoxia.
Tumors in fish
Tumors are pathological growths fabrics. They are divided into benign and malignant. Benign tumors grow slowly and do not harm surrounding tissues. Malignant tumors damage tissues and form metastases.
There is no treatment for tumors. Sick fish must be killed immediately and painlessly. To prevent tumors, you need to protect fish from carcinogenic substances, and also exclude spoiled food from your pet’s diet, which may contain a fungus that can cause cancer.
Hypothermia and overheating in fish
Hypothermia can be caused by heating device failure, sudden power outage, or transportation in cold weather. When the temperature in the aquarium is too low, the fish become lethargic and lie on the bottom. If you stay in too long cold water the fish may die.
In case of hypothermia, frozen fish are warmed up gradually, slowly raising the temperature to the optimal value. If hypothermia occurs due to faulty devices, they should be replaced.
Overheating may occur due to the aquarium being under direct sun rays or in hot weather. The fish's breathing quickens, their gills swell and expand. Prolonged overheating can cause death.
If the fish is overheated, you need to partially replace the water in the aquarium with cold water to reduce the temperature to a safe level.
The temperature is too high or too low
If the temperature deviates from the norm by 3-4°C in one direction or another, the fish may go into shock. At elevated temperatures, fish rush around the aquarium and try to leave it. Low temperatures make the fish's movements sluggish, and their gill covers open slowly.
It is necessary to set the temperature in the aquarium suitable for a particular type of fish, use a heater if the temperature deviates lower, and periodically change the water to colder water during the hot season.
Injuries in fish
Aquarium fish can become damaged for various reasons. Their severity can also vary: from torn scales to muscle rupture. The inhabitants of the aquarium themselves can injure each other when they behave aggressively.
Fish with high immunity quickly recover from injuries, while weak individuals need help.
If the wound is serious and internal organs are affected, it is unlikely that the fish will be cured. If the wound moderate severity, then the fish is placed in a separate aquarium, where they ensure a calm recovery. To speed up the healing effect of wounds, you can add methylene blue to the water.
Shock in fish
Shock in aquarium inhabitants occurs due to stress factors. The more sensitive the individual, the high probability she has to undergo this condition. Shock happens:
- osmotic,
- nitrate,
- temperature,
- chemical,
- toxic.
There are different symptoms of shock:
- faster or slower breathing
- faded color,
- Sometimes fish fall to the bottom with their belly up.
Chemical origin
Diseases of aquarium fish of chemical origin are all kinds of poisoning. Depending on what poisoned the fish, their main types are distinguished.
General fish poisoning
This is a common problem among aquarium dwellers and can cause illness and death. A distinction is made between acute and chronic poisoning depending on the degree of toxicity of the substance that caused the poisoning.
Most often, harmful substances enter the aquarium due to improper equipment and decoration. The first symptoms that pets have general poisoning– loss of coordination, glazed eyes and suffocation.
We need to transfer the fish to a new aquarium. If this is not possible, then it is necessary to remove the source of contamination and perform repeated water changes until the signs of poisoning decrease.
Poisoning with ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, nitrates and nitrites
Ammonia is released by the fish themselves during the metabolic process. It is very poisonous, even small doses are fatal. Its high content can be caused by leftover food in large quantities and a large number of aquarium inhabitants. Pisces breathe heavily, their coordination is impaired. Fish poisoned by this substance must be immediately transferred to clean water and a filter installed.
Hydrogen sulfide poisoning occurs due to overfeeding of aquarium inhabitants, when food with fish excrement forms an anaerobic environment, as a result of which hydrogen sulfide will be released in the water. The water becomes cloudy, and the fish suffocate. The aquarium must be thoroughly washed and cleaned to remove the cause of hydrogen sulfide.
Nitrate poisoning is relatively painless, but some fish species are hypersensitive to them. Nitrate poisoning is characterized by pale gills, choking and lethargy in the fish. For treatment, about half the volume of water is replaced.
Nitrite poisoning is more dangerous than nitrate poisoning and can lead to death. Characteristic feature This type of poisoning is due to the dark coloration of the gills. For treatment, you need to add methylene blue to the water (3-4 mg per 1 liter of water).
Metals
The most common causes of poisoning are iron and copper. They can come from water pipes, along with food, from metal-containing medications. The symptoms of this disease are:
- color change,
- blurred eyes,
- the fish suffocate and stay near the surface of the water.
The water in the aquarium is replaced with fresh water and the filter is thoroughly cleaned. Sick fish are placed in a reserve aquarium. But even if sick fish recover, they most likely will not be able to reproduce and grow.
Chlorine
This happens if the water for the aquarium is not settled, or is not settled for an insufficient amount of time. Chlorine disinfects tap water, But high content This substance in water is harmful to fish.
They secrete mucus, which first covers their gills and then the entire surface of their body. Individuals with poisoning are very excited, they rush around and try to jump out of the water.
To treat chlorine poisoning, fish are transferred to clean, settled water or an activated carbon filter is used.
Chemical industry products
These products surround us everywhere. The following are particularly dangerous for fish:
- An aquarium hose that releases plasticizers into the water over time.
- Paint and tobacco smoke. They can be dangerous if the room containing these odors is not ventilated.
- Detergents used for aquariums.
- Medicines, or rather their overdose.
- Epoxy putty, which is used to coat the inner corners of the aquarium.
Treatment occurs through the most quick fix causes of poisoning, changing water and washing the aquarium, interior items and filter.
New Aquarium Syndrome
This is poisoning of aquarium inhabitants with ammonia or nitrites after being introduced into a new aquarium, as well as with a large amount of fresh water when replacing it.
The reason for this phenomenon is non-compliance with the rule: the new aquarium must be without fish for some time. Before allowing residents there, biological balance must be established (the ratio of various microorganisms to aquarium environment). This usually takes 2 to 4 weeks.
If this period is not met, the aquarium inhabitants will have difficulty breathing, the coordination of their movements will be disrupted, and the body and fins will darken.
Did you know? By removing some ornamental breeds fish were practiced in ancient China in 1500 BC. e.
To rid your pets of new aquarium syndrome, they must be temporarily transferred to an aquarium where ammonia and nitrites will be at low levels.
Diseases as a result of improper feeding regimen and quality
If you do not take a serious approach to feeding your aquarium pets, they may experience serious problems. Below are the main problems in fish due to improper feeding.
Constipation in fish
With constipation, the intestines become blocked by food. This problem is associated with feeding pets monotonous food, mainly dry food. This phenomenon can also occur if the fish swallows a large piece of food or an inedible object.
With this disease, pets have no excrement and may also be lethargic and lack interest in food. To treat constipation, fish must be fed mosquito, daphnia and cyclops larvae.
Important! Each type of fish requires an individual approach to the size of food and frequency of feeding.
Also, with constipation in aquarium inhabitants, peas or beans will help, which need to be boiled, cooled, crushed and fed to the pets.
Gonadal cyst
A cyst is a tumor with liquid and semi-liquid contents. Fish get sick from this if females and males are kept separately for a long time and fed the same food.
Symptoms of this disease are a greatly enlarged abdomen and refusal to eat. Then the fish become infertile and die.
The disease is often asymptomatic and is detected when saving the fish is no longer possible. If the disease is detected at an early stage, the individual is placed belly up in a wet cotton swab and stroked with a finger from head to tail so that the cyst is squeezed out through the anus. But even this will not save the fish from infertility and a shortened life span, although there are exceptions.
Obesity
This problem occurs due to overfeeding and monotonous dry food. Another reason could be small aquarium with a large number of inhabitants in it.
Fish suffering from this disease move little, swim poorly, and their belly becomes enlarged. It causes infertility and death in pets.
When observing signs of obesity in pets, they need to be given a variety of food, but in small portions. You need to feed 1-2 times a day with the amount of food that the fish will eat in 5-10 minutes. Periodically give your fish a “fasting day” when they do not receive food. If the aquarium is cramped, then it is necessary to free up space from plants and decorative items. It is necessary to seat the fish if there are too many of them.
Fish diseases are a problem that every aquarist may encounter. You should carefully monitor your fish to detect symptoms of diseases at an early stage, thereby providing your pets with timely help. And knowing the signs of the main types of diseases, every aquarium owner can take preventive measures to prevent their occurrence.
Diseases of fish living at home usually arise suddenly. If you carefully observe your pets, you can easily recognize the first signs of common diseases.
Aquarium fish can become ill suddenly, so they need to be monitored
If it is impossible to determine the disease, seek help from laboratory diagnostics. Most diseases can be cured easily and quickly without harm to aquarium fish.
General information
Ichthyopathology is a scientific discipline that studies diseases of aquarium fish. Their treatment is not always successful, but it is possible. Ailments are classified into the following types:
- contagious, which are divided into infectious and invasive;
- non-contagious.
Infectious diseases are caused by single-celled organisms: viruses, fungi, protozoa and bacteria. Invasive ones are caused by helminths and arthropods (multicellular animals).
Fish diseases can be contagious or non-contagious Non-communicable diseases are caused by chemical or physical damage. This is due to poor quality care and conditions for keeping fish. Poor care means:
- temperature violation;
- poor quality water;
- entry of toxic substances into the aquarium;
- improper feeding;
- poor nutrition.
Physical damage is caused by the arrangement of the aquarium. It is enough to provide your pets with proper care and the likelihood of illness will be reduced.
Infectious diseases
The dosage of each drug is prescribed by a specialist. An increase in the norm or an incorrectly prepared solution will lead to death.
Non-communicable diseases
Poor quality food and mechanical damage cause illness in aquarium fish. You need to notice the first signs in time:
In case of any illness, be sure to keep the aquarium clean and check the food for freshness. We should not forget to take into account the change in mood of the fish.
Preventive methods
It is easier to prevent diseases than to treat them in a neglected state. If you do simple rules of content, you can protect fish from diseases:
- weekly cleaning of the aquarium with replacement of ¼ volume of water;
- transplantation of excess individuals;
- cleaning traumatic scenery;
- quality food 1 or 2 times a day;
- temperature regime of water, each species has its own;
- proper transportation of pets;
- using a thermostat in winter;
- quarantine for newcomers;
- disinfection of everything that interacted with sick fish;
- high-quality drugs in the correct dosage for treatment.
Care, timely care and nutritious food will protect your favorite fish from diseases and injuries. Regular cleaning of the aquarium will help avoid many troubles.
Aquarium fish also get sick, and the sooner you recognize the alarming symptoms and begin treatment, the greater the chances of the aquarium inhabitants to survive. Let's talk about the most common diseases and how to treat them.
Bug-eyed
The first symptoms are that the eyes swell, begin to protrude beyond the orbit, and later become cloudy. Fluid accumulates behind the eye, which “squeezes” them out. If the disease is not treated, the fish may lose its eyes. There are several causes of the disease - infection or poor-quality water, insufficiently nutritious food, eye nematodes.
Sometimes bulging eyes are not a disease, but a symptom (for example, dropsy), so treatment is carried out after water tests. The fish need to be placed in another container, the aquarium must be disinfected and filled with clean water; changing the water every 3 days is mandatory. If the reason is in the diet, you need to give mineral supplements. After a week, the swelling goes away, and the fish again takes on a healthy appearance.
Fin rot (saprolengia)
It is manifested by the appearance of spots or plaque on the fins, the fish behave sluggishly, may refuse food, gradually rot affects all fins and gills, the functioning of the internal organs is also disrupted, and the fish dies.
To combat saprolengia, you can make manganese or salt baths, lubricate the affected areas with penicillin, and keep the fish in a solution of malachite green for an hour (50 mg per 10 liters). Also known are such drugs as Antibak, Fiosepit, copper sulfate, Tetra Generaltonic, Sera baktopur, Fungus Cure and others.
Hexamitosis
Hexamitosis is treated with calomel (it is added to the feed at the rate of 0.5 g per 250 grams of feed), baths with erythrocycline and griseofulvin. You can add sera Fishtamin, Ichthyovit, ZMF Hexa-ex, sera bakto to the food.
Dropsy
The fish behaves apathetically, sluggishly, lies on the ground, the abdominal cavity is swollen, the anus is inflamed, the scales begin to bristle, and bulging eyes are observed. The abundance of fluid causes swelling, the fish dies from hemorrhage.
Added to feed antibacterial drugs– oxytetracycline, chloramphenicol, sera Costapur, sera Bactopur, Furan-2, Triple, you can do baths with chloromycetin. It is better to remove sick individuals from the aquarium, thoroughly disinfect the tank, and replace the soil.
Ichthyophthiriasis
The easiest way is to add malachite green to the water, but it is not suitable for labeo and botia. Fiosept, furazolidone, sera Bactopur, Nala-Gram, Antibak, Diprovan, sera Omnisan are also used for treatment. Place sick fish in quarantine, raise the water temperature, and clean the aquarium regularly.
Furunculosis
There are several forms of this disease: acute, fulminant and chronic. Lightning can be practically asymptomatic and ends in the death of fish. In the acute form, the skin of the fish is darker, reddish spots appear on the fins and abdomen, and the excrement is mucous and mixed with blood. Later, the fish stops moving, it develops bulging eyes, clearly defined boils, and the gills turn pale.
It is necessary to increase the water temperature, antibiotics are added to the aquarium - Biomycin, Antibak, Ichthyovit, TetraMedica, Furan-2, Sera bactopur, white Streptocide, Tetracycline, Aureomycin. Plants, soil, and equipment must be disinfected.
Plistophorosis
The aquarium must be disinfected with chloramine or potassium permanganate, the soil must be boiled or heated over a fire, plants must be thrown away, and diseased fish must be destroyed.
Mycobacteriosis
Tuberculosis is often transmitted by river fish and live food. Fish that have contracted tuberculosis behave passively, they have a inhibited reaction, they often lie on the bottom or hide in the corners of the reservoir. The appearance of the fish also begins to change: the abdomen sags, scales fall out, the belly enlarges, ulcers appear, and the color fades. Sometimes bulging eyes are observed, the eyes become cloudy, the fish swim as if they are jumping and refuse food.
After the diagnosis has been established, it is necessary to treat the fish in the hatchery by adding antibiotics to the water and food: Ichthyovit, Antibak Pro, Kanamycin, Rifampicin, immunomodulator Vetom. The water temperature is raised to the maximum, the aquarium is disinfected.
Peptic ulcer
The disease is best treated at the initial stage. Streptocide (1.5 grams per 10 liters), bicillin-5 (500,000 units per 100 liters) is added to aquarium water; you can add Fiosept, Tripaflavin, Furan-2, Sera bactopur, TetraMedica, Antibak, Ichthyovit. It is better to carry out treatment in a community aquarium, since other fish can also easily become infected.
Gyrodactylosis
For the treatment of gyrodactylosis, universal drugs are used - Fiosept, Formamed, Antipar, Ichthyovit, Diprovan, copper sulfate, Sera Mycopur, Sera Med, General Cure and others. It is better to treat fish in a community aquarium, since helminths are transmitted from a sick individual to a healthy one.
Fish, like all pets, are susceptible to many diseases. But if the disease is diagnosed in a timely manner and its treatment is started, the fish can be saved. Most diseases can be easily suppressed in the early stages of development.
It is important to make a correct diagnosis and begin treatment immediately.
Diseases of aquarium fish are divided into:
In any case, treatment should begin immediately and continue until all individuals in the aquarium have completely recovered.
Non-communicable diseases of aquarium fish
All fish diseases occur under the influence of external factors or improper care by humans. And most of them can be fatal in fish. Therefore, you should know exactly these diseases in order to prevent them in time and prevent your pets from dying. These include:
- chlorine poisoning;
- lack of oxygen;
- incorrect temperature conditions;
- alkaline disease;
- obesity.
Each of these factors is extremely dangerous for the fish, and therefore you should know as much as possible about them, and pay more attention to the aquarium and its inhabitants.
Chlorine poisoning
The cause of such poisoning is the effect of harmful chlorine on fish. The main symptoms of the disease are difficulty breathing, mucus-covered gills and lightening of the color of the scales. Pisces behave extremely restlessly and constantly try to jump out of it. After small quantity Over time they become very lethargic and soon die.
In order to avoid this, you need to regularly check the level of chlorine in the water. If the fish show the first symptom of malaise, they must be urgently moved to another aquarium with clean water.
Lack of oxygen
With this disease of fish behave extremely restlessly and constantly float to the surface to grab air. The main sign that there is a lack of oxygen in the water is the behavior of snails that periodically float to the surface. If there is a constant lack of oxygen in the aquarium, this will lead to weakened immunity, infertility and loss of appetite. As a result, the pets quickly die.
To eliminate this reason, you need to install aeration equipment in the aquarium and periodically check the filters and proper air circulation.
Incorrect temperature
If the temperature in the aquarium is chosen incorrectly, this can have a negative impact on the health of the fish. If the temperature is too high, pets will too active, They often come to the surface to take a breath of air. Indeed, as a result of a rise in temperature, the fish begin to starve of oxygen and may even die.
When the fish water is too cold slow down and can lie almost motionless on the bottom aquarium Excessive cooling can cause pets to catch a cold and die. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the water temperature in the aquarium.
However, there are fish that can withstand temperature changes well. These include goldfish, neon, guppies and some others.
Alkali disease
The disease occurs against the background of increased or decreased alkali content in water. If there is too much alkali in the water, then the behavior of the fish becomes active, the gills become very swollen and mucus appears on them. The color of the fish fades greatly.
If there is not enough alkali in the water, then the fish become too timid, But activity and mobility decreases. They can swim both upside down and sideways..
Alkaline disease most often affects those fish that respond to change acid-base balance water. This disease leads to splitting of the fins and death of the pet.
When treating this disease, gradualness is extremely important. Water is brought to a neutral value by gradually changing the level of alkali in it. If the changes occur very quickly, then the fish need to be transplanted into another aquarium and the water should be allowed to return to normal.
Fish obesity
Most often this occurs as a result of excess fat content in the feed. Moreover, in herbivorous fish this amount exceeds by 3%, and in carnivorous fish - by 5%. In addition, obesity can occur due to poor nutrition or a too monotonous diet.
As a result, the internal organs of the fish are affected, it becomes lethargic, sides swell and eventually the fish becomes infertile.
In order to prevent obesity in fish, they need to provide a proper and varied diet. It should contain a large amount of protein and ballast substance.
For prevention purposes, it is worth leaving pets for several days a month without food. At the same time, the size of the aquarium should be chosen so that the pets can develop and swim unhindered.
Contagious diseases of aquarium fish
If non-contagious diseases are not transmitted from one individual to another, then infectious diseases immediately affect all fish in the aquarium. That is why you should be extremely careful to ensure that there are no individuals in the aquarium that can infect everyone else.
There are a lot of varieties of such ailments, and therefore you need to know at least some of them in order to prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and the death of all representatives of the aquarium world. Such diseases include:
- white-skinned;
- fin rot;
- mycobacteriosis;
- neon disease;
- hexamitosis;
- peptic ulcer.
White-skinned
In this case, the disease occurs change in fish skin color. It becomes very light, sometimes completely white. Such fish swim closer to the surface of the water.
The causative agent of the disease is the bacteria Pseudomonas dermoalba, which can get into an aquarium with algae or already infected fish.
To quickly cure the disease, the infected individual is placed in a container with diluted levomethicin, and all soil and water in the aquarium should be thoroughly disinfected.
The most common problem in aquarium fish is fin rot. The disease occurs as a result of damage to the fins when bitten by other fish or due to poor quality water in the aquarium. Due to illness fins become smaller, lighter in color and severely deformed. Rot often accompanies various bacterial diseases. At the same time the fish's body swells and becomes covered with small ulcers.
As treatment, methods such as changing the water with preliminary disinfection of the aquarium and the plants in it should be used. All sick fish must be placed in a container with a solution of levomethicin. It is not advisable to place fish of different characters together in one aquarium.
Viviparous fish most often suffer from this disease. At the same time, their behavior completely changes. They lose orientation in space, the individuals’ appetite is disrupted, they become lethargic, and apathy towards everything appears.
The disease manifests itself in each individual in its own way: some fish become covered with ulcers, they develop bulging eyes, others go blind, their whole body is covered with black dots, and bones begin to protrude through the skin.
If the disease is detected at an early stage, then its treatment is possible. For this, agents such as copper sulfate and monocycline are used. At a later stage, the disease is practically incurable.
Neon disease
The causative agent of the disease is the sporozoan amoeboid. The main symptoms of the disease are the jerky movement of the fish, it often rises to the surface of the water, while the head is pointing down. The fish's coordination is impaired, the skin becomes lighter, and the individual stops eating. A sick fish will keep to itself, avoiding schools. Most often, carp fish species are affected by the disease.
Treatment of neon disease does not give any results at all. All infected individuals must be destroyed and the aquarium thoroughly cleaned. But one should also distinguish between pseudoneon disease, which can be cured with a Bactopur solution.
Hole and ulcer diseases of fish
The disease affects the gallbladder and intestines under the influence of the intestinal flagellate. The disease is transmitted by infected fish or poor-quality water in the aquarium. Symptoms of the disease are changes in color, aloof behavior of the fish, and the presence of mucous discharge.
The cure of the disease occurs under the influence of a slow increase in water temperature to 35 - 37 degrees. You can also try diluting metronidazole in water and placing fish in it.
The disease develops under the influence of bacteria that enter the aquarium with contaminated food or sick fish. Symptoms of the disease are small black spots on the body of the fish, which gradually turn into small ulcers. The individual has bulging eyes, bloating of the abdomen, damage to the scales. Gradually, the disease affects the entire body of the fish.
In order for the fish to remain alive, it is necessary to begin treatment at the first symptoms of the disease. For this, a solution of potassium permanganate or streptocide is used.
Invasive fish diseases
Most varieties of these diseases cannot be treated and lead to the death of pets. For example, glucoseosis affects the fish’s body completely and leads to painful death of the individual. Moreover, the disease is extremely contagious to other individuals in the aquarium.
Transmitted through contaminated food or soil. It manifests itself as a coating on the body of individuals, which causes severe itching of the skin. Treatment should begin in the early stages in order to alleviate the pet’s suffering as soon as possible. The individual is placed in a separate container with warm water and the addition of table salt. This measure helps get rid of plaque and relieve itching.
Preventive measures
Fish diseases, the descriptions of which are now known, are quite insidious and do not appear immediately. That’s why it’s worth taking care of the fish and making sure they don’t get sick. To do this you should do simple rules: thoroughly disinfect all items intended for the aquarium, you should not buy sick fish or quarantine them first, all plants should be treated in a solution of potassium permanganate, you should not plant snails in an aquarium with fish - they can carry a variety of diseases. Pets should be fed strictly on time.
