Charki is an element of clothing in a Russian Siberian village. Russian clothing and life

Peasants' clothing was made from homemade fabric: wool, hemp, and partly linen.

Quite early, Chinese paper fabrics - daba, dalemba, calico and cheap silks - began to penetrate into the life of the Siberian village. Along with this, Russian factory fabrics were also known: cloth, chintz, which became especially widespread in the second half of the 19th century, displacing “self-made” fabrics from use. At the beginning of the 20th century. self-harvesting was used primarily for workers' clothing, and partly for ritual clothing, and only the poorest peasants, especially those who were newly settled, made a significant part of their everyday clothing from it. At this time, purchased materials had already quite widely entered into the life of the Siberian village. In addition to fabrics, furs, skins, leather, and suede were used for clothing to a greater extent than in the central regions of Russia.

With the development of capitalism, the city increasingly influenced the clothing of the population of the Siberian village. Already by the first half of the 19th century. There are references to the fact that peasant women wore sweaters and skirts, i.e., clothes of urban cut, and in late XIX-beginning of the 20th century such clothing becomes widespread. Vintage national forms The costume was preserved mainly by groups of Old Believers - Kerzhaks, who, due to their religious views, lived in seclusion and adhered to ancient customs, in particular in clothing. However, new, sometimes local, types of clothing also penetrated into them, and factory-made materials were widely used. The ancient women's clothing complex of the old-timers of Western and Eastern Siberia (including Transbaikalia) bears quite pronounced features of the Northern Russian costume. Its main parts are: a shirt with straight skirts, a sundress and a complex headdress consisting of a kichka (samshura), a kokoshnik and a back cover.

Women's straight-leg shirt- gussets - sewn from canvas in the old days; later top part- “sleeves” were sewn mainly from factory fabric, partly colored, and the bottom - “stanushka” - was sewn from canvas, often “ruined”, painted in vat paint. The collar of the shirt was assembled and sewn to the trim or had a small turn-down collar.

The second type of women's shirt is a shirt with a cape-yoke. They began to wear it not only with a sundress, but also with a skirt, often turning it into the underwear part of clothing, over which a blouse was put on.

The sundress worn over a shirt was called kosoklinnik, dubas, dubasik (a term also known in the northeastern regions of European Russia), dabinnik (the Siberian term - from the material - in order), round, semicircular sundress. The slanted sundress was made mainly from plain fabric. A very old version of the slanted sundress is a sundress with a whole front panel (the “Poles” have a dabinnik, the Bukhtarminians have a sundress with a gusset, that is, wedges on the sides).

The second version of the slanted sundress with a seam at the front was more widespread in Siberia. Its peculiarity in Altai is the absence of buttons and decorations along the seams, which are so characteristic of this sundress in northern Russia. Another, more late form sundress, as if replacing the old sundress with wedges - a round sundress made of straight panels with straps, which were sewn mostly from purchased patterned fabric. A sundress with a bodice was also known in Siberia.

An additional part of a woman's costume was an apron. Let us indicate the main types of aprons: 1) arm ruffles, which were sewn from white canvas cloth, folded over the shoulders, with sleeves (festive arm ruffles were decorated with embroidery); 2) sleeves with a yoke, with gathered panels sewn to it, usually purchased, bright fabric with a large pattern, which replaced the old uniform and were the most widespread; 3) an apron, apron, cufflink, secured with ties at the waist, worn as a working part of clothing.

Data on other species women's clothing, worn over a shirt and sundress, belong to the Angara region. They wore a kabatka, khoba-tukha - a canvas tunic-like garment with sleeves and a cutout for the head, very reminiscent of the southern Great Russian kastalai or navshnik. The “guest” tavern was sewn from linen fabric, the working one was made from timber, painted in dark color and wore them to work.

The sushun (shushun) 2 was known - an open jacket made of damask, with a turn-down collar, and a quilted jacket - with straps, which disappeared from everyday life in the 19th century.

The headdress consisted from a kichka with a hard oval or semi-oval part, often called a shamshura, a backplate - a piece of embroidered fabric, sometimes decorated with glass beads, a kokoshnik - the upper soft part of a cap made of elegant fabric. The kokoshnik here seems to correspond to the “magpie” in the complex, kitsch-shaped, common Russian attire. A similar headdress was known in the Vologda region.

The commonality of the headdress of Siberian women with the headdresses of the northeast of European Russia indicates the origin of these groups of the Siberian population from the northeast of Russia.

In addition to the kitty-shaped headdress, the kokoshnik itself was known, called an inclination, as well as a povoinik - a cap made of light fabric, withholding, and tattooing.

They also wore a variety of scarves (kerchiefs, shawls, shalenki, half-shawls), which gradually became the main ones from an additional part to the samshur, kokoshnik and other headwear. Girls' headdresses, as everywhere among Russians, differed from women's: they wore a scarf rolled into a rope and tied over the forehead, a bandage decorated with beads; It is worth mentioning the braid made of multi-colored rags that decorated the braid, and the white cap - knitted from white linen threads (the cap was worn by girls in the Angara region). 1 A chebak hat with a fabric top and a fur band was in use, also known in the north of European Russia.

The sundress, and sometimes outer clothing, was belted with a belt.

Women's jewelry and girls consisted of rings (signet rings made locally by the Semey family are known). rings, earrings and breast jewelry, the quality and wealth of which depended on the wealth of their owner. Among the breast decorations, the following were found: 1) anatari - amber necklaces, which were common among many old-timer groups of Siberia, 2) duckweed - in the form of a collar made of bugles (Altai), 3) gaitan - a flat or round chain of bugles or beads (Priangara, Altai) . Beaded gaitans are also noted as ancient men's chest decorations among the “Poles” and Bukhtarminians.

The presence of pendants for earrings in the form of fluffs made of swan or duck down was noted (among the “Poles” and among the population of the Angara). This type of jewelry, like gaitans, is more typical for the population of the southern Russian regions.

In some areas of Siberia, women's clothing included pants, which was not common among Russians in the old days. Life in Siberian conditions, the habit of horse riding, as well as the example of neighboring Buryat and Kazakh women contributed to the appearance of this part of women's clothing.

A man's suit consisted of a shirt, belt, pants, headdress, outerwear and shoes. An old type of men's shirt is a tunic-shaped canvas shirt of the all-Russian cut without a “collar” - a collar, with a slit mainly on the left, but sometimes on the right side.

A feature of the old Russian festive shirts in Altai is the abundant breast embroidery, trimming with red and even lace (along the hem, sleeves). At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. “Sitka” blouses with a stand-up collar, a shirt with a yoke, sewn from chintz, and among the rich - from bright woolen

Ancient clothing of various groups of the Russian population of Siberia with fabric patterns. Men's shirts noted in the Yenisei province at the beginning of the 20th century. like “old man’s” ones, they were sewn with straight skirts and a turn-down collar. Another type, common in b. Yenisei province - a shirt with seams on the shoulders and stripes sewn on them and a turn-down collar. Both of these types are more typical for Belarusians and some Ukrainians, and their appearance is associated with the presence of Belarusian or Ukrainian groups among the settlers.

Pants over which it was issued a shirt, belted with a belt, was called ports, gachas (old Slavic terms). In addition to the usual Russian cut of trousers (with a narrow step), they wore wide trousers - chembars, trousers (common Siberian names). A Siberian feature is the use of sheepskin, goat fur, leather, and suede for pants. Ancient leather trousers, which formed part of the Kerzhak costume in Altai, were decorated with vestibule embroidery, “in the Kyrgyz style.”

Headdresses consisted of felted hats with a cone-shaped, hemispherical or cylindrical crown (this shape is similar to the treshnevik of the central regions). They wore felted hats with brims, and straw hats in summer. Festive hats were decorated with drake and peacock feathers. At the end of the 19th century. the kurashka cap has spread. Winter hats were varied: with a quadrangular bottom, hemispherical in shape with fur trim, earflaps with long earmuffs. On a belt (girdle, sash), woven or belted, men carried a knife in a sheath, a pouch with tobacco and a hook for cleaning a smoking pipe.

Outerwear for men and women has much in common in cut, differing in details. From sleeveless cover-up clothing in Siberia at the end of the 19th century. a women's epancha was used - a fur-lined cape. There were clothes with sleeves, but also worn as a cape and tied at the neck (women's festive fur coat in the Yenisei province, a robe made of colored fabric among the Semeis in Transbaikalia). The main type of outerwear (for both sexes) was sewn in the form of a caftan from homespun cloth and was worn on weekdays for work, and for the poor part of the population it was often the only outerwear. These are zipun, shaydannik, single-row (Yenisei), shabur (Altai) with wedges on the sides, less often with gathers (a later form). Short clothing of this type is called a jacket. Men's and women's clothing with a cut-off back and gathers, made from purchased fabric, were mostly festive and only the most wealthy were worn on weekdays; it was called bekesha, jacket, poddevka. It was predominantly double-breasted, with a clasp on the left side, as is typical for the central Great Russian regions. There were also single-breasted caftans, for example, the Bukhtarma subshell, which was always worn with a wide girdle, etc. Single-breasted clothing was labashan, or azyam, woven from camel wool (close in cut to the Central Asian robe), which came to the Russians, apparently through the Tatars.

Winter fur clothing was varied. In addition to the all-Russian sheepskin fur coat, short fur coat, and sheepskin sheepskin coat, a typical one is the yaga, or dokha, worn over ordinary winter clothing. Dokha is a single-breasted straight garment made from dog, goat, deer or deer fur. It was common in Siberia to wear fur and fur clothing, purchased from neighboring peoples; Evenki clothing, warm and light, was worn by hunters and workers in gold mines. Reindeer jackets and suede parkas were worn by Russian-Ustinians, Markovites, Kolyma residents, etc.

Shoes were made from leather and fur.

Wicker shoes (bast shoes) were not common in Siberia; they could sometimes be seen only on newly arrived settlers.

The usual shoes for both sexes were the so-called charki, charki, cherki 1 - a type of leather shoes worn with stockings made of cloth or knitted. Russian boots were the holiday footwear. For work on weekdays, they wore light boots - brodni, obutki - characteristic footwear of Siberian peasants, sewn from rawhide or teal leather with an internal seam and then turned inside out. The wide boot of the brodny reached the knees and was secured with straps at the ankle and above the calves. In summer they were worn with foot wraps, in winter - with cloth onuchas. Soft shoes were also used - Yakut torbas, sary; Buryat and Evenki high boots and others acquired by the Russians from neighboring peoples. Except Antique men's clothing. Former Tomsk fur and leather shoes, made felted ones, which were worn in winter time. Felt boots (called pima in Western Siberia, and wire rod in Eastern Siberia) spread in the 19th century, apparently mainly through new settlers. In some places, the old-timers did not know how to roll felt boots.

Clothing reflected age and class differences: it was divided into festive and everyday wear; The trade suit, work suit, as well as ritual clothing had its own characteristics. So, for example, a trapper, in addition to the usual underwear and zipun, had special clothes: moose pants covered with black canvas, with a large leather pocket, a fur hat with a nakukhtarnik (a piece of canvas sewn to the back of the hat) and headphones; “collar” - made of squirrel tails (worn around the neck), high boots, kokolds (mittens). The term “kokolds” is apparently local, Evenki. Ordinary knitted mittens were put into mittens for warmth, called mittens or golitsa (made of leather), leggings (made of elk skin), mokhnatka (made from dog skin). In Siberia they also wore “percytka” gloves. Special men's clothing for work was a canvas jacket and a komarnik (a tunic-like shirt that protected against mosquitoes).

The clothing of the population reflected the property inequality between the resident and the village. The village rich widely used, along with cheap fabrics are silk, sometimes brocade, factory-made woolen fabric, especially for festive clothing; fur coats were lined with squirrel fur, and valuable fur was used for the edges; wore purchased jewelry made of precious metals. The poorest part of the village wore clothes made from the cheapest fabrics, often homemade.

Peasant clothing, especially men's clothing, was strongly influenced by the city. More often, workers' clothing penetrated into the village, which differed significantly from peasant and factory clothes in fabric and cut, as well as some panache. Festive clothing of a mine worker at the beginning of the 20th century. consisted of a wide shirt, worn for graduation over wide trousers and belted with a wide belt, into which mittens were tucked, a hat with a beaver trim, a waistcoat on the shoulders and boots with copper shoes that made a knock during dancing. Mine workers often used the clothing of the local indigenous population as work clothes: the owner supplied, in addition to skis and sleds, Evenki clothing.

In general, in clothing one can note the predominance of the features of the Northern Russian costume among the old-timer population and pronounced connections with the North and the Upper Volga region - in the clothing of the Old Believer groups (Bukhtarmintsy, “Poles”, Semeyskie). There are noticeable connections with the Urals, with the population of which the Siberians were constantly in communication (the influences here, apparently, were mutual). More complex complexes are also distinguished, reflecting the diversity of the composition of the settlers. So, for example, in the Yenisei province, in addition to the features of the Northern Russian costume (shirt, sundress, padded jacket, etc.), there are Belarusian-Ukrainian elements (men's and women's shirt with straight lapels and a turn-down collar and men's shirt with shoulder stripes), as well as features South Great Russian complex (cannons, gaitan, tunic-shaped bib-kabatukha). In Siberia, many unique types of clothing were developed that were not known to the Russians of the central regions (yaga-dokha, wide chembars and many others). Many local types of clothing (made of fur, rovduga) came into use, especially in the fishing, working costume of the inhabitants of the tundra.

Borrowing many convenient local forms clothing, Russians, in turn, had a great influence on the clothing of the peoples of Siberia, promoting the spread of more advanced sewing techniques and cutting of Russian clothing. Many of the local peoples first learned about underwear and then outerwear made of fabric only after the Russians had mastered Siberia.

G. M. Popov wrote this at the beginning of the 20th century. about the Yakuts: “. . Nowadays it is rare to find a Yakut dressed in his primitive clothes, sewn from cattle leather, and more often now Yakuts wear clothes made from factory fabric. . . For men, the outer dress now usually consists of a coat or blouse tied with a belt, trousers and cap (boots) on the feet; they wear caps on their heads in summer and Russian-style hats in winter.” The Yakuts began to sew dresses of Russian cut; Rich Yakuts bought silk, velvet, as well as Russian boots and shoes. Altaitts began to wear Russian clothing, especially men's clothing. The Buryats sewed their robes from Russian fabrics. Evenki women adopted the cut of women's clothing - skirts.

Russian influence on the Evenks was especially noticeable in the gold-mining areas: in the Bodaibo area, the Evenks wore trousers, shirts, sweaters made of chintz, satin and other purchased fabrics. Among the Khakass, men's and women's shirts to this day retain individual elements (poliks, gussets), indicating their Russian origin. Russian shoes, scarves, and caps became widespread in Siberia.

Russian folk costume of Siberians Peasants' clothing was made from homemade fabric: wool, hemp, and partly linen. Quite early, Chinese paper fabrics - daba, dalemba, calico and cheap silks - began to penetrate into the life of the Siberian village. Along with this, Russian factory fabrics were also known: cloth, chintz, which became especially widespread in the second half of the 19th century, displacing “self-made” fabrics from use. At the beginning of the 20th century. self-harvesting was spent primarily on workers' clothing, and partly on ritual clothing, and only the poorest peasants, especially among the new settlers, sewed a significant part of their everyday clothing from it. At this time, purchased materials had already quite widely entered into the life of the Siberian village. In addition to fabrics, furs, skins, leather, and suede were used for clothing to a greater extent than in the central regions of Russia. With the development of capitalism, the city increasingly influenced the clothing of the population of the Siberian village. Already by the first half of the 19th century. There are references to the fact that peasant women wore sweaters and skirts, i.e. clothes of urban cut, and at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. such clothing becomes widespread. Ancient national forms of costume were preserved mainly by groups of Old Believers - Kerzhaks, who, due to their religious views, lived in seclusion and adhered to ancient customs, in particular in clothing. However, new, sometimes local, types of clothing also penetrated into them, and factory-made materials were widely used. The ancient women's clothing complex of the old-timers of Western and Eastern Siberia (including Transbaikalia) bears quite pronounced features of the Northern Russian costume. Its main parts are: a shirt with straight skirts, a sundress and a complex headdress consisting of a kichka (samshura), a kokoshnik and a back of the head.1 A women's shirt with straight skirts - gussets - was sewn in the old days from canvas; later, the upper part - the “sleeves” - was sewn mainly from factory fabric, partly colored, and the bottom - the “stanushka” - was sewn from canvas, often “ruined”, painted in vat paint. The collar of the shirt was assembled and sewn to the trim or had a small turn-down collar. The second type of women's shirt is a shirt with a “cape” - a yoke. They began to wear it not only with a sundress, but also with a skirt, often turning it into the underwear part of clothing, over which a blouse was put on. The sundress worn over a shirt was called kosoklinnik, dubas, dubasik (a term also known in the northeastern regions of European Russia), dabinnik (the Siberian term - from the material - in order), round, semicircular sundress. The slanted sundress was made mainly from plain fabric. A very old version of the slanted sundress is a sundress with a whole front panel (the “Poles” have a dabinnik, the Bukhtarminians have a sundress with a gusset, i.e., wedges on the sides). The second version of the slanted sundress with a seam at the front was more widespread in Siberia. Its peculiarity in Altai is the absence of buttons and decorations along the seams, which are so characteristic of this sundress in northern Russia. Another, later form of sundress, which seems to have supplanted the old sundress with wedges, is a round sundress made of straight panels with straps, which was sewn mostly from purchased patterned fabric. A sundress with a bodice was also known in Siberia. An additional part of a woman’s costume was an apron. Let us indicate the main types of aprons: 1) oversleeves, which were sewn from a white canvas panel folded over the shoulders, with sleeves (festive oversleeves were decorated with embroidery); 2) sleeves with a yoke, with gathered panels sewn to it, usually purchased, bright fabric with a large pattern, which replaced the old uniform and were the most widespread; 3) an apron, apron, cufflink, secured with ties at the waist, worn as a working part of clothing. Data on other types of women's clothing worn over a shirt and sundress refer to the Angara region. They wore a kabatka, a hobatukha - a canvas tunic-like garment with sleeves and a cutout for the head, very reminiscent of the southern Great Russian kastalap or navershnik. The “guest” tavern was sewn from linen fabric, the working one - from hemline fabric, painted in a dark color and worn to work. The sushun (shushun) 2 was known - a swing jacket made of damask, with a turn-down collar, and a padded warmer - with straps, which disappeared from everyday life in 19th century The headdress consisted of a kichka with a hard oval or semi-oval part, often called a shamshura, a backplate - a piece of embroidered fabric, sometimes decorated with bugles, a kokoshnik - the upper soft part of a cap made of elegant fabric. The kokoshnik here seems to correspond to the “magpie” in the complex, kitsch-shaped, common Russian attire. A similar headdress was known in the Vologda region. The commonality of the headdress of Siberian women with the headdresses of the north-east of European Russia indicates the origin of these groups of the Siberian population from the north-east of Russia. In addition to the kitsch-shaped headdress, the kokoshnik itself, called inclined, was known, as well as the warrior - a hat made of light fabric, held back, and a “head cap.” They also wore a variety of scarves (kerchiefs, shawls, shalenki, half shawls), which gradually from an additional part to the samshur, kokoshnik and other headwear became the main ones. Girls' headdresses, as everywhere among Russians, differed from women's: they wore a scarf rolled into a rope and tied over the forehead, a bandage decorated with beads; It is worth mentioning the braid made of multi-colored rags that decorated the braid, and the white cap - knitted from white linen threads (the cap was worn by girls in the Angara region). 3 A chebak hat with a fabric top and a fur band, known in the north of European Russia, was in use. A sundress, and sometimes outerwear, was belted with a belt. The jewelry of women and girls consisted of rings (signet rings made locally by Semeyskie are known), rings , earrings and breast jewelry, the quality and wealth of which depended on the wealth of their owner. Among the breast decorations, the following were found: 1) anatari - amber necklaces, which were common among many old-timer groups of Siberia, 2) duckweed - in the form of a collar made of bugles (Altai), 3) gaitan - a flat or round chain of bugles or beads (Priangara, Altai) . Beaded gaitans are also noted as ancient men's chest decorations among the “Poles” and Bukhtarminians. The presence of pendants for earrings in the form of cannons made of swan or duck down is noted (among the “Poles” and among the population of the Angara). This type of jewelry, like gaitans, is more typical for the population of southern Russian regions. In some regions of Siberia, women's clothing included pants, which was not common among Russians in the old days. Life in Siberian conditions, the habit of horse riding, as well as the example of neighboring Buryats and Kazakh women contributed to the appearance of this part of women's clothing. The men's costume consisted of a shirt, belt, pants, headdress, outerwear and shoes. The old type of men's shirt is a tunic-shaped canvas shirt of the all-Russian cut without a “collar” - a collar, with a slit mainly on the left, but sometimes on the right side. A feature of the old festive Russian shirts in Altai is the abundant breast embroidery, trimming with red and even lace (at the hem , sleeves). At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. “Sitka” blouses with a stand-up collar, a shirt with a yoke, sewn from chintz, and among the rich, from bright woolen fabric with patterns, were common. Men's shirts noted in the Yenisei province at the beginning of the 20th century. like “old men’s” ones, they were sewn with straight polyps and a turn-down collar. Another type. common in b. Yenisei province - a shirt with seams on the shoulders and stripes sewn on them and a turn-down collar. Both of these types are more typical for Belarusians and some Ukrainians, and their appearance is associated with the presence of Belarusian or Ukrainian groups among the settlers. Pants, over which a shirt was worn, belted with a belt, were called ports, gachas (old Slavic terms). In addition to the usual Russian cut of trousers (with a narrow step), they wore wide trousers - chembars, trousers (common Siberian names). A Siberian feature is the use of sheepskin, goat fur, leather, and suede for pants. Ancient leather trousers, which formed part of the Kerzhak costume in Altai, were decorated with vestibule embroidery, “in the Kyrgyz style.” Headdresses consisted of felted hats with a cone-shaped, hemispherical or cylindrical crown (this shape is similar to the treshnevik of the central regions). They wore felted hats with brims, and straw hats in summer. Festive hats were decorated with drake and peacock feathers. At the end of the 19th century. the kurashka cap has spread. Winter hats were varied: with a quadrangular bottom, hemispherical in shape with fur trim, earflaps with long earmuffs. On a belt (girdle, sash), woven or belted, men wore a knife in a sheath, a pouch with tobacco and a hook for cleaning a smoking pipe. The outerwear of men and women has much in common in cut, differing in details. From sleeveless cover-up clothing in Siberia at the end of the 19th century. a women's epancha was used - a fur-lined cape. There were clothes with sleeves, but also worn as a cape and tied at the neck (women's festive fur coat in the Yenisei province, a robe made of colored fabric among the Semeis in Transbaikalia). The main type of outerwear (for both sexes) was made in the form of a caftan from homespun cloth and was worn on weekdays for work, and for the poor part of the population it was often the only outerwear. These are zipun, shaydannik, single-row (Yenisei), shabur (Altai) with wedges on the sides, less often with gathers (a later form). Short clothing of this type is called a jacket. Men's and women's clothing with a cut-off back and ruffles, made from purchased fabric, were mostly festive and only the most prosperous were worn on weekdays; it was called bekesha, jacket, poddevka. It was predominantly double-breasted, with a clasp on the left side, as is typical for the central Great Russian regions. There were also single-breasted caftans, for example, the Bukhtarma subshell, which was always worn with a wide girdle, etc. Single-breasted clothing was labashan, or azyam, woven from camel wool (close in cut to the Central Asian robe), which came to the Russians, apparently through the Tatars. Winter fur clothing was varied. In addition to the all-Russian sheepskin fur coat, short fur coat, and sheepskin sheepskin coat, a typical one is the yaga, or dokha, worn over ordinary winter clothing. Dokha is a single-breasted straight garment made from dog, goat, deer or deer fur. It was common in Siberia to wear fur and fur clothing, purchased from neighboring peoples; Evenki clothing, warm and light, was worn by trappers and workers in gold mines. Ustinian Russians wore reindeer jackets and suede parkas. Markovites, Kolyma residents, etc. Shoes were made from leather and fur. Wicker shoes (bast shoes) were not common in Siberia, they could sometimes be seen only on recently arrived new settlers. The usual shoes for both sexes were the so-called charka, char, cherni 4 - a type of leather shoes worn with stockings made of cloth or knitted . Russian boots were the holiday footwear. For work on weekdays they wore light boots - brodni, butotki - characteristic footwear of Siberian peasants, made from rawhide or teal leather internal seam and then turned inside out. The wide boot of the brodny reached the knees and was secured with straps at the ankle and above the calves. In summer they were worn with foot wraps, in winter - with cloth onuchas. Soft shoes were also in use - Yakut torbas, sars, Buryat and Evenki high boots and others, purchased by the Russians from neighboring peoples. In addition to fur and leather shoes, they made singed ones, which were worn in winter. Felt boots (called pima in Western Siberia, and wire rod in Eastern Siberia) spread in the 19th century, apparently mainly through new settlers. In some places, the old-timer population did not know how to roll felt boots. The clothing reflected age and class differences: it was divided into festive and everyday wear; The trade suit, work suit, as well as ritual clothing had its own characteristics. So, for example, a trapper, in addition to the usual underwear and a zipun, had special clothes: moose pants covered with black canvas, with a large leather pocket, a fur hat with a nakukhtarnik (a piece of canvas sewn to the back of the hat) and earmuffs; “collar” - made of squirrel tails (worn around the neck), high boots, kokolds (mittens). The term “kokolds” is apparently local, Evenki. Ordinary knitted mittens were placed for warmth in mittens called mittens or golitsa (made of leather), leggings (made of elk skin), mokhnatka (made of dog skin). In Siberia they also wore gloves - “perstsyatki”. Special men's clothing for work was a canvas kabatok and a komarnik (a tunic-like shirt that protected against mosquitoes). The clothing of the population reflected the property inequality of village residents. The village rich widely used, along with cheap fabrics, silk, sometimes brocade, and factory-made woolen fabric, especially for festive clothing; fur coats were lined with squirrel fur, and valuable fur was used for the edges; wore purchased jewelry made of precious metals. The poorest part of the village wore clothes made from the cheapest fabrics, often homemade. Peasant clothing, especially men's clothing, was strongly influenced by the city. More often, workers' clothing penetrated into the village, which differed significantly from peasant and factory clothes in fabric and cut, as well as some panache. Festive clothing of a mine worker at the beginning of the 20th century. consisted of a wide shirt, worn for graduation over wide trousers and belted with a wide belt, into which mittens were tucked, a hat with a beaver trim, a waistcoat on the shoulders and boots with copper shoes that made a knocking noise during dancing. Mine workers often used the work clothes of the local indigenous population as work clothes: the owner supplied, in addition to skis and sleds, Evenki clothing. In general, in clothing, one can note the predominance of features of the Northern Russian costume among the old-timers and pronounced connections with the North, the Upper Volga region - in the clothes of the Old Believers groups (Bukhtarma residents, “Poles”, Semeyskie). There are noticeable connections with the Urals, with the population of which the Siberians were constantly in communication (the influences here, apparently, were mutual). More complex complexes are also distinguished, reflecting the diversity of the composition of the settlers. So, for example, in the Yenisei province, in addition to the features of the Northern Russian costume (shirt, sundress, padded jacket, etc.), there are Belarusian-Ukrainian elements (men's and women's shirt with straight poles and a turn-down collar and men's shirt with shoulder stripes), as well as features of the South Great Russian complex (cannons, gaitan, tunic-shaped bib-kabatukha). Siberia also developed many unique types of clothing, unknown to the Russians of the central regions (yaga-dokha, wide chembars and many others). Many local types of clothing (from fur, rovduga) came into use, especially in the fishing, working costume of the inhabitants of the tundra. Borrowing many comfortable local forms of clothing, the Russians, in turn, had a great influence on the clothing of the peoples of Siberia, promoting the spread of more advanced sewing techniques and cut of Russian clothes. Many of the local peoples first learned about underwear and then outerwear made of fabric only after the Russians had mastered Siberia.G. M. Popov wrote this at the beginning of the 20th century. about the Yakuts: “. . Nowadays it is rare to find a Yakut dressed in his primitive clothes, sewn from cattle leather, and more often now Yakuts wear clothes made from factory fabric. . . For men, the outer dress now usually consists of a coat or blouse tied with a belt, trousers and sars (boots) on the feet; they wear caps on their heads in summer and Russian-style hats in winter.” The Yakuts began to sew dresses of Russian cut; Rich Yakuts bought silk, velvet, as well as Russian boots and shoes. Altaians began to wear Russian clothing, especially men's clothing. The Buryats sewed their robes from Russian fabrics. Evenki women adopted the cut of women's clothing - skirts. Russian influence on the Evenki was especially noticeable in the gold-mining areas: in the Bodaibo area, the Evenki wore trousers, shirts, sweaters made of chintz, satin and other purchased fabrics. Among the Khakass, men's and women's shirts to this day retain individual elements (toes, gussets), indicating their Russian origin. Russian shoes, scarves, and caps became widespread in Siberia. 1 According to available data, it was noted in the Tomsk province among the “Poles” and Bukhtarminians, in Transbaikalia - among the Semeis. Sundresses and shirts with straight skirts were much more widespread, in particular in the Yenisei and Tobolsk provinces. 2 This very old term among the Russians denoted a sarafan (in the north) or a maid's tunic-like clothing (in the south). 3 Such clothing is rarely found among Russians. It is noted in the Vologda region as a dress for a betrothed girl. 4 Charki, cherki correspond to the cats of the central regions. "Peoples of Siberia". Ethnographic essays, publishing house of the USSR Academy of Sciences, Moscow - Leningrad, 1956 Ancient clothing of various groups of the Russian population of Siberia 1 - men's clothing, Bukhtarmintsy; 2 - festive men's clothing, Bukhtarminets; 3 - women's “round” sundress, Bukhtarminets; 4 - men's clothing, family clothes; 5 - women's clothing and women's headdress, family; 6 - girl’s clothes, family clothes; 7 - women's clothing, Russian population of Yakutia; 8 - men's clothing, Russian population of Yakutia; 9 - women's clothing, Kolyma Russians; 10 - women's clothing, Russian-Ustinets

It is difficult to talk about the traditions of women's costume in the Omsk Irtysh region, especially when we are talking about the Russian old-timer population. Pieces of information in archival documents, information from literary sources, essays, and memoirs of publicists of the past provide an incomplete, but sometimes even more reliable picture than, unfortunately, museum collections. These collections are small in number, and most of their exhibits are the result of late collections. The results of the expeditions are even more meager recent years. Individual surviving elements of traditional clothing, often of late origin, influenced by cultural processes of recent history, are sometimes considered typical. The information they carry is transmitted throughout the history of the costume, which, in turn, forms a distorted idea of ​​this interesting side of the traditional everyday culture of the descendants of the Russian pioneers in our area.

In a situation where researchers are happy to meet any, even individual elements of traditional clothing, their attention, and that of the general public, could not help but be attracted by “Chaldontsy,” an authentic ensemble from the ancient village of Krestiki, Okoneshnikovsky district, Omsk region. At district and regional events in the 1970s, the band sounded authentic and were dressed accordingly - in bright, like easter eggs, couples, catching with their foreignness in the then vast “cranberry” singing field. All the participants sported the authentic clothes of their youth, almost not subject to “moral aging” in this particular village, or those that they inherited from their mothers. But the vibrant song tradition was the main object of research at that time. Much later, for the collectors of the late 1990s and 2000s, material culture, including costume, became equal in importance to folklore. But by this time, irreparable losses (carriers left, things were burned as unnecessary) had narrowed, like shagreen leather, the recently extensive material.

Complex expeditions were carried out, one might say, in “three waves”: representatives of the public organization “Center of Slavic Traditions” under the leadership of Cheshegorova E.M. worked in this village in the late 90s, employees of the Department of Traditional Culture of the State Center for Science and Technology Sidorskaya O.G. and representative of the SB RAS Zolotova T.N. - in the 2000s, and specialists from the Department of Traditional Culture of the BUK NCST under the leadership of Professor Omsk State Pedagogical University N.K. Kozlova - in the 2010s. As a result, a variety of material was collected, including about traditional costume: recordings of conversations with the oldest residents of the village, containing information about the clothing of the bygone generation, photographs depicting christenings different ages in typical “outfits” of the early twentieth century, as well as a collection of surviving clothing items from different years of the first half of the twentieth century. These materials allow us to get an idea of ​​what the tradition of women's peasant costume in the Siberian village of Krestinskoye (Krestiki) was like, how it existed, was preserved and developed during the era of change, at the turn of the century, as well as at the beginning of the Soviet period.

The traditional costume of the peasants of Siberia was influenced by many factors, the most important of which are ethnic, environmental and economic.

Ethnic. The features of the costume complex were external manifestation belonging to one or another cultural and historical group of the population of Siberia, which, in turn, is established by the place of origin of the settlers, time and motivation (in in this case- old-timers - “chaldons” - the Russian population that appeared in Siberia before the middle of the 19th century). The composition of the costume complex, technology and sometimes decor were influenced by economic and cultural contacts with the indigenous population (Kazakhs, in Siberian, “Kyrgyz”) and with the arriving Russians. For a long time the closest Russian settlement to Krestik was the neighboring Presnovka.

Ecological. Environment, geographical location villages (in the southeast of Western Siberia), natural area with the inherent type of climate (forest-steppe with numerous fresh and salt lakes, sharply continental climate with long, harsh winters and short, hot summers) had a significant impact on the formation of a complex of clothing with adequate quality characteristics.

Economic. The basis of the costume complex of the residents of the village of Krestiki inherits all-Russian features and is determined by the type of main occupation: like the majority of Orthodox Christians, i.e. peasants, they were mainly engaged in growing flax and grains, breeding livestock and poultry, various crafts for processing manufactured and natural raw materials to provide everything necessary in an almost subsistence economy. Trade connections with the volost center, the provincial city and neighboring cities in railway(Kalachinsk, Omsk, Tatarskoye) also introduced their own characteristics. Everyday and outerwear, as well as accessories from household materials (linen, wool, wool mixture - undershirts, skirts, shaburs, fur coats, stockings, mittens, girdles) were made independently and ordered from fellow village craftsmen (tailoring, for example, outerwear required professional skills. In confirmation, several surviving samples reveal the same cut and technological techniques). Fabrics for festive clothing (silk, wool and cotton - calico, satin, cashmere, jacquard), as well as scarves, were purchased at markets and fairs.

These are the circumstances that determined one of the aspects of the life style of the old-timers of the village of Krestiki - the costume (in the broad sense) of the christening “chaldonka”, its composition, the features of the cut, the nature of the materials used, the types of additions and decor.

The great success of the collectors was the acquisition in 2011 of a collection of clothing items that were carefully kept by Roshchina Pelageya Nikiforovna, a native resident of the village, born in 1926.

Pelageya Nikiforovna was well aware that the things that belonged to her mother (Ekaterina Pavlovna Dvortsova, born in 1904) and preserved in memory of her could be interesting and in demand as objects of everyday culture of the pre-Soviet era. Awareness of this helped to preserve them even under the pressure of circumstances in hard times, do not use, adapting it for children or your own needs, as often happened. This collection, totaling 43 items (including scarves and belts), helped to give an idea of ​​the structure full complex clothes of a christening chaldonka from the first third of the 20th century. Individual items collected earlier and during recent expeditions, as well as information from oral histories and photographs, completed what was missing, confirmed what was typical, and revealed what was special in the costume complex.

By structuring the diverse material, relying on the known principles and characteristics of the classification of traditional costume, we can draw the following preliminary conclusions about the components of the complex of women's clothing. Krestikov:

by appointment:

– underwear (shirt with a yoke, rectangular cut, composite – “sleeves” and frame);

– maid clothes (a couple (urban type), a set with a dress (dress, “zapon” (apron), a set with a skirt (skirt of the “andarak” type, a shirt with a yoke, a “zapon”);

– headwear (scarf “cube”, “foreign”, cashmere, half shawl, cashmere shawl, travel shawl, “hoop” (part of a woman’s headdress);

– shoes (boots, glasses, boots);

– additions (white woolen stockings; belt; knitted mittens made of home-dyed wool with ornaments).

by function:

– casual (a couple with an apron, a dress with an apron, a shirt with a skirt and an apron);

– festive (a couple of cashmere, silk with a dark background apron with tambour embroidery, a silk apron with machine lace);

– ritual (wedding couple, wedding dress with an apron made of wool or cotton fabric).

by origin and composition of elements:

– all-Russian (women's casual set with an andarak skirt, outerwear (terms, cut, technology and materials);

– borrowed (from the urban population – “couples” and dresses made from purchased materials; from the aboriginal population – the principle of a multi-layer complex of road winter outerwear (zipun – fur coat – sheepskin coat – travel shawl – doha);

– preserved from places of exit (the term “zapon”, calico scarves from Russian calico-producing factories, an element of women’s headdress “hoop”);

“Siberianisms” (“belts,” glasses, dark-colored aprons, widespread use of purchased fabrics for festive clothing).

Conclusions:

The women's costume complex of the village of Krestinskoye is a local version of the costume of the Russians, namely the old-timer Russian Siberians, “chaldons” (self-name), i.e. migrants who arrived before the mid-nineteenth century in the south-east of Western Siberia. The village was founded on the periphery in relation to the relatively compact settlement of old-timers in the northern regions of the Omsk Irtysh region in 1787, according to one version, and in the 1830s, according to another. Limited contacts with Russians due to the great distance, as well as the foreign cultural environment, contributed to the preservation, conservation, and strong consolidation in the new conditions of cultural traditions (including in costume) and craft skills inherited from their places of origin. Along with the characteristic dialect, some features of the women’s costume indicate the resettlement of the village’s founders from the southern provinces of Russia (the existence of the term “zapon” (apron), white knitted stockings with the widespread ornamental knitting of mittens, a strong preference for bright colors and bold color combinations in the costume with “ a couple,” an unprecedented number of “foreign” cotton scarves, preserved from the grandmothers of the oldest informants in Siberia).

In general, we can say that the tradition of women's costume in the village of Krestiki was stable. Evidence is the number of costumes and individual elements preserved by almost all representatives of the older generation (born in the 20s and 30s) in “yashshiks” (chests) and chests of drawers. Many elements were actively used and were routinely used in the 60s: in shaburs belted with a woven “gird” they went to “handle” livestock, “on the go” they knitted mittens with a “Chaldonian pattern” and white stockings. For the rest of their lives, many sewed and wore dresses of the old favorite style - with a yoke in the front and a tight-fitting cut-off back. Someone kept couples and cufflinks in memory of their parents. Creatively active part, members of the well-known authentic group “Chaldonians”, used until the 80s the outfits they sewed in their youth and inherited from their mothers for performances at concerts and holidays, passing them on over time to their granddaughters and successors. Almost all older and middle-aged women remained faithful to the cuff apron, an indispensable addition to a home suit of any style and, of course, a scarf. At each christening chaldon, entire collections of scarves of various purposes, sizes and qualities were stored, used and constantly, when the opportunity presented itself, replenished. This once again testified to the life-loving desire to surround oneself and fill life with beauty accessible ways, for example, creating your wardrobe. The attention and efforts that were directed to this determined the vitality of the manner of the female population of the village of Krestiki to dress “in the old fashioned way”, contrary to the persistent proposals of the new time, generally accepted Soviet norms, with their characteristic unification of the composition of the wardrobe, the cut of its elements, and the simplification of methods. decoration, replacing the principles of color solutions.

In this chapter we will look at women's clothing, as it shows a more complete picture of the life of Siberian peasants. The work that women did in the West Siberian village of the feudal period was quite varied. Peasant women shared labor with men in harvesting and mowing, threshing bread, and sometimes even engaged in crafts. And yet, their main responsibilities were caring for the house, garden, livestock, cooking, processing plant and animal raw materials, handicrafts, and washing clothes. They participated significantly less than men in external spheres of family economic activity.

In materials from the late 18th - 19th centuries relating to the territory of Western Siberia, there was information about 940 pieces of women's underwear, 435 pieces of maid clothing, and 26 pieces of outerwear. Small number last group is explained by the fact that outerwear was predominantly of a universal nature, i.e. used by men and women at the same time. Only in 26 cases was her identity specified in the sources as female. The selected groups include, respectively: women's underwear - shirt; maid - sundress, dubas, top, top, pair; breastplate: jacket, sleeves, padded jacket, short fur coat (fabric), shugai, shushun; waist - upper, cufflink, apron, apron, skirt; top - fur coat - "galanka", fur coat, short fur coat, epanechka Shelegina O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 120..

The main element of the costume of women and girls in Western Siberia at the end of the 18th - 19th centuries, as in the European part of the country, was the shirt. It was used independently and complete with a sundress. The shirt could be one-piece or a combination of two parts, differing in name and material. Almost throughout the entire territory of the studied region, the top and hidden bottom visible from under the sundress were called by the Northern Russian terms “sleeves” and “stan”, “stanovina”, “stanushka”. The base, as a rule, was made from canvas of lower quality, and the sleeves, which gave the suit an elegant look, were made from thin homespun or factory material. Sometimes the name "sleeves" was extended to the women's shirt as a whole.

In the first half of the 19th century. the traditional "word of mouth" complex is being replaced by an urban one - a "pair" (skirt and corresponding chest clothing) or a dress - the shirt becomes only underwear. It can be noted that the percentage of shirts made entirely from purchased fabrics in the 19th century. slightly higher than in the 18th century, which is, in our opinion, evidence of the increasing role of factory materials in the group of clothing under consideration. It also turns out that of the purchased fabrics, the most used were Alexandria, fanza, muslin (XVIII century) and bakhta, daba, muslin (first half of the 19th century), and among domestic ones - thin linen by Shelegina O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 123..

The sundress complex as a type of all-Russian women's costume was formed during the period of the formation and development of the Russian centralized state in the XV - XVII centuries. and was brought to the territory of the Trans-Urals by settlers from the European part of the country. Ibid. P. 125.. The oldest blind oblique sundress, sewn mostly from cloth folded over the shoulders, with inserted slightly beveled longitudinal wedges on the sides, was known in the north-east of Russia as dubas, tanbilnik (from the word “tanning” - to paint). In this form and under this name, sundresses became widespread in Western Siberia.

Already at the beginning of the 19th century. in the Siberian districts of the Perm province, sundresses dyed with bark were worn only in secluded villages and only by the poorest women who “did not have what to buy sandalwood with” Troitsky Yu.L. Descriptive portrait as a way of ethnographic characterization of Russian peasants of Siberia in the 19th century. // Development of the culture of the Siberian village in the 17th - early 20th centuries: Interuniversity collection. scientific works. Novosibirsk, 1986. P. 65..

During the XVIII - XIX centuries. Everywhere in Western Siberia, the complex with a sundress was the main type of both everyday and festive clothing for peasant women. Under the influence of socio-economic conditions, changes in its components (in cut, selection of fabrics) are observed, coinciding with general trends development of women's costume during the period of late feudalism.

The combination of a skirt with a shushun, shugai, or a shower jacket, characteristic of the 18th - 19th centuries, did not receive a specific term. Among the peasants, such clothing spread under the influence of the city. “Pair” as a type of clothing for women in Western Siberia can be traced back to the second half of the 18th century. In Tara district, richer young women wore skirts with shushuns made of silk fabric on holidays, preferring them to sundresses. The less wealthy wore pairs of Chinese, calico and melon Shelegina O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 125.. The complex with a skirt - “pair”, along with sundresses, was common among peasant women living in the city, nearby areas and highway areas, and was used as an elegant outfit by wealthy rural women. Of the waist-length clothing that we encountered in the inventories of the property of rural residents of the Tomsk district, the most noteworthy are the “kolomenchataya skirt, striped 8 stripes”, and the “kolomenchataya skirt” (i.e., made from kolomyanka - striped woolen homespun). Women who had such skirts did not wear sundresses. Ethnographers have established that the Russians had a striped skirt only among certain groups of the population bordering the Belarusians, or among residents resettled from these places and included in the service people in the 16th-17th centuries." From the western lands of the Smolensk region, Belarus, similar skirts , according to G.S. Maslova, were brought to the Russian North, and from there to Siberia G.S. Maslova. Folk clothing of Russians, Ukrainians and Belarusians in the 19th - early 20th centuries. East Slavic ethnographic collection. , 1956. P. 273.. The andardak skirt could have been brought to the southern forest-steppe districts of Western Siberia by settlers from both northern Russian and western Russian provinces.

Along with the areas in which both complexes dynamically coexisted, areas with a clear predominance of one of them are distinguished. According to N. Abramov, the existence of only skirts with shushuns and the absence of sundresses among Berezovsky peasant women is explained by the peculiarities of the economic activity of the population, great place which was occupied by trade, and therefore contacts with townspeople. In Berezovo it was almost impossible to find a family that did not have direct connections with the Tobolsk market Shelegin O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 129.. In the agriculturally developed Ishim Okrug, the common women's costume was, according to the observation of N. Chernyakovsky, jackets and skirts. The strong influence of the city led to the fact that in the 40s. XIX century in the Tobolsk district (the village of Dolgoyarskoye), sundresses were almost completely replaced by a skirt with a shushun (padded jacket with sleeves) Ibid. P. 130..

The final component in complexes with a skirt and sundress among rural women in the studied region, as well as in the European part of the country, was waist clothing (from the belt to the hem with a tie at the waist) under common name apron. In the areas of initial development, in particular in the Tyumen district, with early XVIII V. it was known as “verkhnik” (a term used in the north-west of Russia), in the south of Western Siberia, in the Tomsk district - as “zapon”, “zapan” (this designation was used in the central and southern Russian provinces and in the neighboring Perm region). Everyday aprons, which protected clothes from getting dirty, were made from canvas, while holiday aprons, as an additional decoration in a suit, were made from broken canvas or factory-made fabrics with braid. In the Cannes and Tomsk districts, among the Old Believers “Poles” and among the Bukhtarma “Kerzhaks” in Altai, women also wore aprons with sleeves - oversleeves. Depending on the fabrics and decorations, they were used as work or dressy Shelegina O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 132..

The final touch in the maid clothes of peasant women was a girdle (belt) tied over the sundress at the waist, on weekdays - a woolen one “of your own handicraft”, on holidays - a silk one with “tinsel hanging tassels” Lebedeva N.I., Maslova G.S. Russian peasant clothing of the 19th - early 20th centuries. // Russians: Historical and Ethnographic Atlas. M., 1967. P. 246.. The belt was considered as a kind of amulet, a magical object that promotes well-being and good luck for both men and women.

The idea of ​​maid clothing for peasant women in Western Siberia at the end of the 18th - 19th centuries. will be incomplete without revealing the nature of the existence of the newest and most fashionable urban type of clothing for that time - dresses. Mid-century round dresses also worn by residents of the Ishim region. Barabino peasant women wore dresses on holidays. Young people, who were more receptive to innovations, actively introduced dresses into their wardrobes. For example, in Burlinskaya parish. in Altai, in addition to Russian sundresses, “many girls wore dresses, the cut of which followed fashion, borrowing from the noble class” Shelegina O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 133.. Observed existence of the type of clothing in question among certain property and age groups, imitation of styles by other social strata emphasize the general characteristic features of the functioning of fashion as a stereotypical form of mass behavior. What is considered fashionable is something that is adopted only by a part of the group. Although in the first half of the 19th century. I haven't received the dress yet widespread, nevertheless, due to its inclusion in the wardrobe, the maid clothing of peasant women becomes more diverse compared to the 18th century.

So, we have considered a group of women's clothing intended for indoor use and use in the summer. Its composition corresponded to the needs of peasant women in work and holiday costumes, reflecting the influence of socio-economic and ethnic factors on the development of this element of material culture in the conditions of the Western Siberian region.

Let's move on to studying the fabric and fur group of outerwear. In inventories of the property of peasants in Western Siberia at the end of the 18th - 19th centuries. zipuns, armyaks, shaburs, and threads are not divided into men's and women's due to the fact that these clothes were the same for both sexes in cut and material. In inclement or cool weather in Altai and the Barabinsk steppe, peasant women most often wore a ponitok; in other regions of the Tomsk and Tobolsk provinces - a shabur, or zipun. The peculiarity of the costume of Russian peasant women living in Altai was the inclusion of chembar pants as outerwear. They were worn only when riding, for working in the forest and on the road in winter. At the same time, sundresses were tucked into pants and “tucked under.” Let us emphasize: Russian women in the European part of the country did not practice wearing pants.

In the 40s of the last century, factory raincoats penetrated into the festive costume of rich peasant women of the Tobolsk district, where urban influence was stronger. The settlers called them Montons Shelegina O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 139..

For a century and a half, the everyday winter clothing of Western Siberian peasant women was bare sheepskin coats and short fur coats, sheepskin coats, the same as those worn by men. There were no differences in everyday life between rich and poor women Shelegina O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 141..

Women's headdresses, common in Western Siberia at the end of the 18th - 19th centuries, were very diverse. As is known, women's hats had not so much a utilitarian meaning as they reflected certain social gradations in the status of women.

According to the all-Russian tradition, West Siberian girls went with bareheaded. On ordinary days, multi-colored silk ribbons were woven into the braid. Ibid. P. 144.. The “ribbon”, known in European Russia already in the 17th century, was considered an elegant girl’s dress in Western Siberia. and, probably, became widespread in the Trans-Ural territory from the time of the resettlement of peasants here.

In the first half of the 19th century. This ancient Russian headdress is noted in the south of Tomsk and in Yalutorovsky district. N. Abramov (1848) described it this way: “On holidays and for walks, girls put on a headdress called a ribbon: this is a headband three inches wide, made of silk fabric, with gold embroidery or braid, with beads and pearls, for the rich , at the bottom, being wider at the top, it has the appearance of a crown and is tied at the back of the head with thin ribbons. The braid is braided from the very head, extends down the neck and back, ending with a braid in the form of a triangle made of cap paper, covered with silk fabric with strings on it. with beads, different colored stones and foil" Lebedeva N.I., Maslova G.S. Russian peasant clothing of the 19th - early 20th centuries. // Russians: Historical and Ethnographic Atlas. M., 1967. P. 246.. However, under the influence of the city, the ribbon begins to gradually be forced out of the girls’ costume. Everywhere in the 19th century. The festive attire of unmarried peasant women included a silk scarf, tied with the ends back so that the top of the head remained open. The scarf, as an object symbol of girlhood, appeared in the wedding ceremony during the hand-shaking. He acted as a deposit, which was necessarily handed over by the bride to the groom at the wedding by “running away” N.A. Minenko. Marriage among the Russian peasant and service population of Southwestern Siberia in the 18th - first half of the 19th centuries. // Soviet ethnography. 1974. No. 4. P. 42..

The most common of women's headdresses in the region in question in the 18th century. the kokoshnik appeared. Its name comes from the word “kokosh”, which means both “chicken” and “rooster”. This headdress, traditional during the feudal period in the Russian North, is characterized by the combination into one whole of a solid base and a soft, elegant top by Shelegin O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 145..

M. Shvetsova described the festive headdress of the Old Believers - residents of the Zmeinogorsk district, "kichka". It consisted of the kichka itself (“a structure made of wire hoops covered with fabric”), on top of which a “kokoshnik” made of silk or velvet, embroidered with gold and silver, was put on; a back of the head was tied to the back of the kichka, covering the entire back of the head; the gap between the kokoshnik and the back of the head was covered with a shawl. Right there. P. 146..

As a winter headdress in Western Siberia everywhere at the end of the 18th - 19th centuries. women used chebak - a warm hat, lined and trimmed with various furs (for the “surplus” - sable), covered with factory cloth or silk (damask). Chebak, as a rule, was covered with a “hat” scarf or shawl. Ibid. P. 147..

In women's costume in Western Siberia at the end of the 18th - 19th centuries. included mostly leather, sometimes felted shoes. Until the middle of the 18th century. Peasant women mostly wore kotas (a type of ankle boots) and shoes, which they purchased at the market. In the second half of the century, women began to use charkas, which were previously considered mainly men's shoes. In the first half of the 19th century. throughout Western Siberia, casual and dressy shoes were of the same type. On weekdays, women wore glasses (a type of galosh, thick shoes with edges and frills), boots (Shadrinsky district) with woolen stockings by Shelegin O.N. Essays on the material culture of Russian peasants in Western Siberia (XVIII - first half of the 19th century). Novosibirsk, 1992. P. 149..

Considered elements of women's clothing in certain combinations with each other formed more or less stable sets. Here are descriptions of some of them. Everyday attire of residents of the Tarsk and Ishim districts of the Tobolsk governorship ( late XVIII c.) can be presented as follows: a homespun canvas shirt, a dyed canvas sundress, brown or blue, a silk cap with braid (Ishim district); in the ears - earrings "with bets" of medium size, goat or yuft shoes, men's glasses (for the poor) Ibid. P. 152..

In the Yalutorovsky district (the first half of the 19th century), peasant women usually wore a canvas shirt, a dubas made of painted canvas, a belt woven from multi-colored woolen threads, a warrior, and charki. On holidays - a shirt made of thin white canvas with an elegant cufflink (on the chest under the shirt, as on weekdays, there is a cross), a sundress - depending on the condition - of dark purple canvas, calico, Chinese or silk, a belt of multi-colored silk, beads around the neck: marzhan and beads, Chinese pearls (for the rich), a chain (kokoshnik), tied with a “paper” or silk scarf. In winter, in addition, they wore covered fur coats with hoods (hoods) on hare and squirrel furs Lebedeva N.I., Maslova G.S. Russian peasant clothing of the 19th - early 20th centuries. // Russians: Historical and Ethnographic Atlas. M., 1967. P. 247..

The balanced relationship between traditions and innovations that has developed in Western Siberia over a century and a half (with local dynamics in individual areas) allowed peasants, without losing the foundations of Russian culture, to create a costume adequate to local conditions.