The question often arises: “Is it necessary before making their bed for the first time?” The opinions of housewives usually differ: some people think that necessary procedure, someone gets along without it. The arguments put forward are very different. However, the opinion of the suppliers themselves bed linen Definitely: you need to wash new bed linen. And there are a number of reasons for this.

Why you need to wash new bedding

So, why do manufacturers insist that new bedding needs to be washed? Eat a whole series reasons:

• Finishing. This is a special coating, a composition that is applied to fabric to make colors brighter and more saturated. Also, the design turns out a little shiny, and the canvas itself is hard, as if it had been starched. This treatment gives the linen a more attractive appearance, more tempting for buyers when displayed. By the way, thanks to the finished coating, the fabric folds more easily, which also creates additional convenience for sellers.
• Possibility of damage to the integrity of the packaging during transportation. And this opens up enormous opportunities for various microorganisms, infections, allergens, etc. So, when purchasing linen in damaged packaging, it is imperative to wash it, since the risk of contaminating things with something increases significantly.
• Allergies and irritations can be caused by the same dressing, since in this case various chemical compounds.
• Poor-quality linen, if laid on without washing, will almost certainly stain the new owners. So you can wake up in the morning green, blue, red or colorful.
• Not everyone likes the specific smell of new things; it can irritate and interfere with sleep.
• It is also worse to sleep on hard textiles.
• It is unknown in what conditions the underwear is sewn. Often the fabric lies directly on the floor, in the dirt, and there is a column of dust in the workshops. At first glance, these contaminants may be invisible, but this will not add comfort to sleep;
• There may be mechanical particles in or on the fabric (sand, threads, etc.) that will cause discomfort and interfere with healthy sleep soundly.
• Various microorganisms readily settle on natural fabrics: bed and dust mites, lice, etc.
• Storage conditions unknown. If the rules and deadlines are not followed, things may become infected, for example, with mold bacteria.

It is also unknown who touched this linen. Perhaps it wasn't very healthy person. There may be other ethical considerations

Why do you need washing?

During the first wash, many functions are performed at once. Thanks to her:

• The laundry becomes soft;
• The specific factory smell is lost;
• Chemicals and excess paint are washed off;
• Dust, bacteria and microorganisms that may have accumulated during transportation and storage are washed away.

Such a simple measure allows you to achieve significant results, and also allows you to reduce to almost zero the risk of infection with something or the appearance of allergic reaction. Based on all of the above, we can come to a clear conclusion: new bedding needs to be washed.

If you also iron new bed linen, this will also be an antimicrobial treatment. When heated, almost all pathogenic bacteria die.

Is it possible to do without washing?

Is it possible not to wash new bed linen? Of course, you can lay the set directly on the bed and not complicate your life with additional washing and ironing... But this will be done at your own peril and risk, since no one will guarantee that the items are completely safe and do not contain harmful substances and microorganisms, will not cause allergies, etc. Is it worth the risk to save 30 minutes? Here everyone decides for themselves. Moreover, possible treatment may cost many times more.

Usually housewives who do not wash new things explain it this way:

• Love the crispy new underwear;
• The smell of a new set attracts you;
• Save time on washing and ironing;
• They simply do not attach importance to everything listed above;
• They do not consider washing new clothes a mandatory hygienic procedure.

How to wash new bedding

Of course, no one wants to ruin new bedding. To avoid this, you need to follow a few simple rules:

• Read the information on the label, it will indicate the composition of the fabric, the features of its care and washing rules;
• A new set is washed on the left side, so the pillowcases and duvet cover need to be turned inside out;
• The first wash is not really washing, but rinsing things in slightly soapy, cool water, followed by rinsing. Hand washing is recommended, especially for natural and delicate fabrics;
• When washing in a machine, choose fast mode and set a low temperature (from 30 to 50 degrees depending on the material). You can select gentle mode;
• Things do not rub when washed by hand, so abrasions, bald spots, areas without paint or patterns may appear;
• During the first wash, do not use stain removers, stabilizers, especially bleaches. A simple powder or special gel is enough. You can add a little conditioner when rinsing. When washing by hand, use vinegar to refresh and fix the color;
• When washing several sets, you should not mix white and colored clothes; colored linen will almost certainly stain;
• Also, do not wash sets that require different temperatures together.

After washing, items are hung and dried. Then the pillowcases, sheets and duvet covers are ironed as usual, and allowed to rest and cool. And only then can you make the bed with a new one bed linen. After such a gentle wash, it will not lose any of its newness, but will become softer and more pleasant to the body. That's all for the question: “Do you need to wash new bedding?”

Any bedding inevitably loses its brightness. It's irreversible physical process, which can only be slowed down by observing storage and washing conditions. But if your bedding set becomes heavily stained and fades during use, then you have purchased a cheap and low-quality set. It could very well be a fake famous brand. Probably, when painting, paint that was harmful to skin health was used.

The process of shedding bed linen can take a very long time. Unfortunately, in accordance with the law, bed linen is included in the list of goods that cannot be exchanged or returned.

Why is underwear dyed?

High-quality application of a pattern on fabric is primarily the quality of the paint, good manufacturer will use moisture-resistant, and ideally hypoallergenic paint. The method of applying paint is also important. If the manufacturer skimps on paint or the dyeing process, the buyer receives cheap and low-quality bed linen.

How to determine if underwear is dyed?

This is quite simple to do, just wipe the kit with a damp cloth light color. If there is any dye left on the napkin, you can try several recipes from our grandmothers for fixing the dye on the bed linen fabric.

To fix the color:

1. If the type of fabric allows it, you can try boiling such a set several times until the water stops being colored. The drawing will certainly lose its brightness, but it will most likely stop losing paint by staining the skin.
2. Acetic acid: Dilute vinegar in water. The proportion for 70% essence is approximately 1 to 20, for 9% approximately 1 to 1. Soak your set of underwear to be dyed in the resulting solution for an hour or two. Then rinse the set thoroughly and dry. Attention! Be careful when using chemicals! Vinegar essence 70% dangerous when undiluted!
3. Solution table salt: Do saturated solution salt, a couple of teaspoons per liter of water. It is better to do this in slightly warm water. Soak the bed linen for a while, then rinse and dry.

Well, if none of the remedies have helped you, and you don’t want to wake up every morning looking like a hero from the movie “Avatar,” it’s better to get rid of such a set. Give this bed linen for rags to your husband in the garage, he will need it. And take a closer look at ours, which does not need to be painted.

To prevent dye from washing out of fabric:

• Follow the recommended temperature regime washing. Water no more than 40 degrees. Try to wash white/light linens separately from colored ones.
• When washing plain black bedding, add a teaspoon of salt to washing machine, for red or blue– add a teaspoon baking soda
• Use napkins for washing colored laundry. They are placed in washing machine Together with a set of linen, they absorb dyes that get into the water, partially preventing the dye from settling on linen of a different color.
• Use specialized household chemicals

To restore the lost brightness of bed linen:

• After carefully studying the instructions, use various household fabric color restorers
• Use safe bleach for colored fabrics
• Two bottles of pharmaceutical ammonia dissolve in 5-10 liters of water. Soak the laundry in the solution for one hour, then rinse thoroughly and dry. Remember that ammonia has pungent odor, this procedure is best done in a ventilated area.

In order not to find yourself in a situation in the future where the paint from the purchased linen is washed off during the first wash, or remains on the body, avoid low-quality and cheap bed linen.

How to tan a fox skin at home for export?

"If you tried to make
Fox Skins, But Something Wasn’t Working For You All The Time, Then Give Me 6 Hours and 18 Minutes and I’ll How to Do This Work
High quality and no errors!"

"32 VIDEO LESSONS REVEALING ALL THE SECRETS OF FOX SKIN TRAINING THAT I HAVE ACCUMULATED OVER MANY YEARS OF MY PRACTICE!"

Dear beginning furrier!

Did you know that according to statistics, up to 80% of beginners in this business fail and give up this venture forever?

Do you know what the MAIN reason for failure is?

No, not in the lack of knowledge about the dressing process and its sequence.

And it’s not even a lack of motivation - for many this stage has already been passed, and they are simply eager to find out this secret!

In fact main reason has been known for a long time - these are PRACTICAL DIFFICULTIES! Just think about these numbers: 8 out of 10 beginning furriers fail precisely because practical side affairs!

Where to start?

Any job has its own subtleties and some difficulties. So in fur dressing, there are some moments, some little things, without knowledge of which you will not achieve good results. But they can be overcome if you don’t go at random, but follow the advice of those who have already walked this path.

You can get to work on your own, study all kinds of literature, consider many recipes. In this case you will spend large number time, you will perfectly master the theory of skin dressing, but you will not have practical skills, exactly everything that I had to master by trial and error over a long time. All this will cost you not only wasted time, but also mistakes in initial stage. Isn’t it better to trust one specialist who will guide you from start to finish, providing comprehensive information about tanning hides at home.

If you are interested and want to save your time, I will help you with this and will reveal in detail all the secrets of fur and leather dressing.

I tried to present all my many years of experience in detail in my training video course. Previously, none of this existed, everything had to be collected bit by bit by yourself, so many mistakes were made, and of course there were also losses. That's why I decided to make something like a guide for beginners.

In my training video, I outlined in detail, including the most necessary little things, the entire technology for tanning fox skins at home. Having studied it, you will make your work much easier, save money and time.

I am pleased to present it to you:

"Training of fox skins at home»

After you insert DVDs into your drive, on the monitor screen you will see:

Read on to find out what is hidden behind each section. The following briefly describes the knowledge that you will gain by completing this or that section.

SO, LET'S CONSIDER THE FIRST DISC:

THEORY

The first disc presents you with purely theoretical information. It includes four sections, each of which contains lessons supported by practical videos. Each of the sections represents important element knowledge, without which there is simply no point in starting the practical part!

So, let's look at what video lessons include these sections:

SECTION 1. FUR RAW MATERIALS

	What do you need to know about raw materials? ........................................................ ........................	03:39 min.
	Structure skin skins. ........................................................ ..........	02:01 min.
	Primary processing of fur raw materials. .........................................	12:17 min.
	Storage and preservation of skins. ........................................................ ................	08:30 min.

SECTION 2. TREATMENT OF HIDES

PART 1
	Completing batches. ........................................................ ...........................	05:10 min.
	Soak. ........................................................ ........................................................ ...	17:55 min.
	Methods for soaking skins. ........................................................ ...........................	22:19 min.
	Fleshment. ........................................................ ...................................................	16:27 min.
	Degreasing. ........................................................ ........................................	15:55 min.
PART 2
	Pickling of skins. ........................................................ ....................................	34:57 min.
	Pickling skins. ........................................................ .........................................	04:23 min.
	Tanning of hides. ........................................................ .........................................	32:41 min.
	Fatliquoring of hides. ........................................................ ......................................	13:16 min.
	Drying skins. ........................................................ ........................................................	13:30 min.

SECTION 3. FINISHING HIDES

	Finishing and washing of hides. ........................................................ ............................	09:00 min.
	Reinforcing the material covered. ........................................................ ...	04:07 min.
	What to watch out for when tanning hides. ............................................	04:06 min.
	Preparation of chrome extract. ........................................................ ........	09:50 min.
	Basic chemicals for tanning hides.................................................... .........	09:12 min.

SECTION 4. RECIPES FOR HID TREATMENT

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS

LET'S CONSIDER THE SECOND DISC:

PRACTICE

Second disc- Focused exclusively on practice! You will see everything
skinning process foxes !

TRAINING OF FOX SKINS

In this section you will have access to 8 detailed videos lessons, about that
how to properly tan fox skins.

	In this tutorial you will see the entire process of processing fresh fox skins. Find out which device is easiest to produce primary processing, what to watch out for and how to properly preserve processed fox skins.
	You will have access to the entire process of soaking fox skins, with a detailed explanation of why it is needed, what substances are used for soaking dry skins and in what proportion they should be used. You will see how important it is mechanical impact, temperature conditions and the length of time the skins were soaked.
	Fleshing is the removal of subcutaneous tissue, as well as muscle and fat layers, which are not only unnecessary in the tanned hide, but are also harmful, since they make it difficult to penetrate during dressing. chemicals deep into the dermis. Using the example of fox skins, you will see the whole process of fleshing, how to do it, what devices and what you should be careful of first.
	After fleshing, the skins need to be better degreased, and for this they need to be washed well using detergents and degreasers. In this lesson you will see what detergents and degreasers need to be used, what proportions need to be maintained, what temperature and mechanical conditions will give maximum effect for degreasing fox skins.
	In this lesson you will see how pickling of fox skins is carried out, which acid is most effective for these skins, what proportions and time regime are used, what happens to the skins at the time of pickling, what mechanical action is necessary and much more. You will also learn what it means to check the skin by “pinch” and personally see the “drying” effect, which means the end of the pickling process. LESSON 8. Drying and kneading fox skins Using the example of a fox, you will see the final process of dressing skins, drying and kneading. All about visual inspection of drying skins, at what point it is necessary to knead, how to finalize the skin and what can happen if this process is not completed on time.

I tried to explain and show everything you need to know for tanning skins at home, without any losses, down to the smallest detail from start to finish in my video lessons. So, after carefully studying the entire video course, you can get to work on your own.

Your success will be guaranteed!

"Training of fox skins at home»

As you can see, I tried to give out as much as possible more information, so necessary for a beginning leather tanner at home.

and all this on two DVD discs!

Are there any guarantees?

If such a question arises in your head, then know that for all your courses, including the course "Training fox skins at home" I give TWO GUARANTEES:

First: 100% 365 day money back guarantee!
I am Yurko Pavel Trofimovich, the author of the course “Turning Fox Skins at Home,” I guarantee you that if after completing this course, you still don’t learn how to tan fox skins, then I will refund you all the money you spent.

To take advantage of the guarantee, send the disc to the return address and write to me about it at [email protected] .

Attach to your application brief description what you have done in the course!

Second: 100% guaranteed course delivery in perfect condition.

If you would like to order a video course and think that the course will arrive in damaged, then you can safely cast aside all doubts.

We use durable corrugated cardboard boxes to transport all our courses. The disk is double protected against external influences and is rigidly fixed inside the box.

But even if for some incredible reason the course arrives to you in an unusable condition, just let me know and I will send you the course again at my own expense.

As you can see, you are not risking anything. I am absolutely confident that you will achieve the result you need.

Method 1

1. Shooting the skin with a tube.
2. Degreasing with scorch moistened with turpentine or gasoline.
3. Editing.
4. Canning (drying).
5. Sorting of raw materials by size, sex, date of slaughter and age of animals.

6. Soak.

6.1. First way. Solution: for 1 liter of warm water - 30 g of table salt. Soaking duration is 6-8 hours. Then - swelling for 1-2 hours, breaking with a dead end on the deck and processing with fresh solution for 1-2 hours.

6.2. The second method is for skins with defects during canning. Solution: for 1 liter of warm water - 45 g of table salt and 1 ml acetic acid or 0.3 ml of sulfuric acid. Soaking duration is 8-24 hours. Instead of acid, you can use 50 ml/l of bread kvass.

6.3. The third method is for oily skins. Solution: for 1 liter of warm water - 30 g of table salt; 2-3 g of technical borax, 1-2 g of soda ash, 2 g of washing powder or laundry soap. Soaking duration is 6-24 hours. After soaking, the skins are allowed to swell and then rinsed in clean water at a temperature of 32°C for 20 minutes.

7. Fleshment.

8. Degreasing.

8.1. First way. Degreasing solution: for 1 liter of water (36°C) - 30 g of table salt, 50 ml of turpentine and 2 g of washing powder. The duration of degreasing is 1 hour (with periodic stirring of the fur raw material). Degreasing is carried out outdoors! The skins are removed from the solution, given 20-30 minutes to swell and then rinsed in clean water or in water with the addition of 1 ml of 25% ammonia.

8.2. Second way. Degreasing solution: for 1 liter of warm water - 30 g of table salt, 1 g of washing powder, 2 g of laundry soap, 3 g of soda ash and 2 g of OP-10 wetting agent. The duration of the degreasing bath is 40-60 minutes. Degreasing is followed by swelling for 30 minutes and three washes:

a) first wash - in water at a temperature of 36°C with the addition of 1 g/l soda ash, 0.5 g/l laundry soap and 0.5 g/l OP-10 wetting agent and cheap shampoo. within 30 minutes;

b) second wash - in warm water with the addition of 1 ml/l of 25% ammonia (20 min); c) third wash - in clean water at a temperature of 30°C. Within 20 minutes.

After any method of degreasing, the skins are allowed to swell for 1 hour.

9. Salting (as for mink skins).

10. Softening (as for mink skins).

11. Pickling.

11.1. First way. Pickel solution: for 1 liter of spent softening solution - 12 ml of acetic acid (for females) and 15 ml (for males). The duration of pickling is 24-30 hours (for females) and 30-48 hours (for males). Stirring the skins every 6-8 hours.

11.2. Second way. The first addition to the softening solution is 50 ml/l of bread kvass; The duration of pickling after the first gravy is 2-3 hours. Second gravy - 5 ml/l acetic acid; The duration of the bath after the second addition is 3-4 hours. The third sauce is 1.1 ml/l of sulfuric acid (for females) and 1.3 ml/l (for males); The duration of pickling after the third gravy is 16 hours (for females) and 20 hours (for males). Before each gravy, the skins are removed from the pickle solution. Upon completion of pickling, the skins are allowed to swell for 1-2 hours and laid to rest (12 hours).

11.3. The third method is fermentation. Pickel solution (per 1 kg of wet raw materials): 3.5-4.5 liters of freshly prepared bread kvass and 105-125 g of table salt. The temperature of kvass is no more than 26°C. The duration of fermentation is 12-48 hours. The readiness of the skins is determined by how easily the hair in the groin area comes off.

12. Tanning. You can use one of the three methods described below:

12.1. Mixed tanning. Tanning solution: for 1 liter of water (30°C) - 30 g of table salt, 1 g of urea, 15-18 ml of tannic extract, 6 ml of acetic acid (or 1 ml of sulfuric acid). Tanning duration is 12 hours. After this period, 2 g/l of soda ash or 3 g/l of hyposulfite is added to the solution and the skins are tanned for another 20-24 hours. The skins are allowed to swell and stored for 12 hours.

12.2. Potassium aluminum tanning. Skins tanned with aluminum alum have a coarser core than skins produced by the previous method.

18 g/l of potassium alum is added to the spent pickel solution and the skins are kept for 4 hours, after which the raw materials are removed and 3 g/l of soda ash is added to the solution. Tanning continues for another 24-30 hours (with the skins being stirred every 6-8 hours). The skins are allowed to drain and stored for 12 hours.

12.3. Vegetable tanning. The skins are tanned in a decoction of a tanning plant diluted with water. 30 g/l of table salt is added to the solution. Tanning duration is 2 days.

Such skins are characterized by a rough core, but high wear resistance.

13. Fatliquoring.
14. Drying.
15. Finishing operations:

a) moistening the skins with water (50-60°C) using a spread method; lying down (2-4 hours);

b) kneading with a spatula;

c) grinding the core with sandpaper;

d) degreasing the hair in warm water with the addition of 3 g/l washing powder and 2 g/l soda ash for 40-60 minutes;

e) first wash in warm water with the addition of 1 g/l washing powder and 0.5 g/l soda ash for 30 minutes;

f) second rinse in clean warm water for 20 minutes;

g) swelling (2 hours);

h) fatliquoring;

j) knead with a spatula until elastic;

k) combing the hair with a metal comb.

Method 2

1. Cleaning the hair. Blood stains on the hair are washed off with a brush or sponge dipped in warm water, and carefully combed with a comb.
2. Moisturizing the flesh. The skins are moistened from the inside with warm water at a temperature not exceeding 35°C, pouring it inside the skin removed with a stocking.
3. Lay for 1.5-2 hours.
4. Fleshment. The skin is turned inside out upwards in the direction from the head to the rump and skinned, removing the remaining fat and meat, knocking down the film.
5. Soaking using the spread method. To do this, use wet sawdust from deciduous trees, preferably strong ones. It is better to take large sawdust. The skins are generously lubricated on all sides with sawdust pulp and left in this form for 12 hours. Then the sawdust is shaken out, the paws and tails are trimmed, after wetting them with warm water, and the cartilage is removed from the ears. It is preferable to do this on a bracket.
6. Fleshing on a staple using the “punch” method. Lanks and tails are left stretched wide. The claws of the paws are not trimmed.
7. Pickling using the spread method. The skins are stretched lengthwise from the head to the rump and moistened with pickle solution. There are four pickels. To prepare the solution, take 20 g/l formic acid, 80 g/l table salt. Pickel temperature 25°C. The soaked skins lie in the first pickel for 6 hours. After which they are moistened with fresh pickle solution and kept for several more hours.
8. Undercutting the head of the skin using the “cut” method
9. Second pickling. The operation is repeated twice.
10. Breakdown on the bracket. The entire skin is split in length, and the paws and tails are split in width.
11. Fatliquoring using the spread method.
12. Lay down for 3-4 hours.
13. Drying on poles, skin side up. When the flesh is slightly withered, but not completely dry, the skins are turned hair side up again in the direction from the head to the rump. The turned out skins are put on a pole with a tube and dried in this position.
14. Breakdown. The skins are again turned inside out and broken on a staple.
15. Cleaning up with a scythe.
16. Finishing operations. The skins are turned hair side up, shaken, beaten, and combed with a metal comb.

Natural skins for flooring have been decorating human homes since ancient times, and have not lost their relevance to this day.

Nothing could be simpler. For fleshing, it is better to use a dull knife; the tip of the knife is specially rounded. And you have to shave for the “crush”, i.e. do not cut off the fat, but squeeze it out from the rump to the head, removing cuts of meat and film along the way. When the fat stops being squeezed out, wash the skin in a solution of washing powder at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water. Add to it detergent Fairy. We wash the skin with the inside out, then with the fur out, rinse the skin in cold water. In general, all solutions for processing should be made in cold water because... at temperatures above 42 degrees, the skin will deteriorate irreversibly. After rinsing I prepare PICKEL. This is a solution of acetic acid at a rate of 10-12 g. for 1 liter of water. Pickel is prepared based on a liquid ratio of 1:4. That is, 7-8 liters of solution are needed for a fox. Add coarse salt N1 to this solution at the rate of 50 g. per liter. Dip the skin into this solution, with the inside out, for 8-10 hours, periodically stirring the skin in the solution. After this period, we take the skin out of the solution, lightly squeeze it out and put the skin to rest for 12 hours. Then tanning. We prepare a solution of chromium-potassium alum at the rate of 7-8g. per liter, plus salt 50g per liter. Also 7-8 liters per fox. We put the skin in the solution, with the inside out, for 12 hours, stirring occasionally. After 12 hours, we take out the skin and wash the fur. I use cheap, but well-working concentrated shampoos in tubes. It takes half a tube for a fox. We turn the skin inside out, and, trying to prevent water from getting inside the skin, rinse the fur. It is better to do this in the bathroom, in cold water, carefully because... The splendor of the skin depends on this. If you wash it poorly, the hair will be greasy, the fur will stick together, and the skin will look bad. Next. I stretch the skin onto a straightening board and dry the fur. As soon as it starts to fluff, I turn the skin inside out and hang it on a rope. During this time, the flesh also dries out. We prepare a fat solution while the fur is drying. For 1 liter of water you need: Fish oil-50g. Aleic acid-25g. Ammonia-10g. Two compositions are made. Fish oil is mixed with Aleic acid, and Ammonia with water at a temperature of 30 degrees. In different glass containers (jars). Mix before use. Then spread the hanging skin with this solution from top to bottom with a brush. Without skipping. Leave the skin moistened with this solution to dry. But the most important thing is that you need to constantly stretch slightly. I calculate the dressing process so that this process occurs on the weekend when I am free. The flesh begins to dry out quite quickly; stretching must be done quite often. When the flesh becomes almost dry and does not stretch, we turn the skin inside out and dry the fur, periodically combing it with a comb with long, frequent teeth. When the fur is dry, we turn the skin inside out again and the process of pulling begins. We take a section of the skin and, like washing clothes, we pull at the core. And so on the entire skin. The flesh breaks down and becomes soft. Next, you can lightly sand the inside with fine sandpaper. The skin becomes even more soft. All. This method is good for all our common fur species. Tested hundreds of times. The mesh turns out strong and holds the seam of the sewing machine well. Good luck.

I'll add.
I described this dressing process for raw, freshly removed skins or salted skins that did not have time to dry. For skins preserved using the fresh-dry method, a soaking process is added. Those. prepare 8 liters of solution: salt-50g. per liter of water. Zinc chloride-0.5g. per liter Zinc chloride prevents the process of rotting of hides during soaking, and also strengthens the hair in the flesh.

It must be added when soaking the skins of all animals, but especially the skins of raccoon and muskrat, in which the hair is weaker in the flesh and can “leak.” I have not observed this in foxes, minks, martens, ferrets, and squirrels.

Not written by us. This article was written by ev011

How to remove the skin from a fox and its primary processing

How to skin a fox

It is better to remove the skin from a fox with a pipe. For this sharp knife don't cut the skin on your feet hind legs from the middle of the pads to the claw of the middle finger.

Then from the middle of the pads to anus, By inside hind legs. Next, cut the fox skin from the anus to the base of the tail. In the same way, the skin on the front paws is ripped open, from elbow joint through the foot to the middle claw.

Tanning hides (methods, recipes, step-by-step process).

Using a knife, we trim the connective film and tendons connecting the phalanges of the fingers. After removing the skin from the paws, he begins to separate the skin of the tail from its shaft.

To make skinning easier, it is better to hang the fox carcass by its hind legs while moving.

After removing the tail, separate the skin from the body. Smoothly pulling it down, if necessary, trim the film from the skin. Approaching the front joints, we first remove one paw after the other, then the skin will again be easily removed.

Near the head you need to help with a knife, because... dense in this place connective tissue. By carefully trimming the ears (leaving a thin piece of cartilage in auricle) remove the skin from the tip of the muzzle, trimming the lips and nasal cartilage, remove the skin completely.

Primary processing of fox skin

The removed skin should be thoroughly degreased and wiped with a dry and clean rag. If there are tears in the skin, they must be sewn up with threads, but they should not be tightened too much, only until they are closed. The degreased and rubbed fox skin is put on a straightener, with the fur inward and the flesh outward. It is important that the ridge and tail are strictly in the middle. Place the straightener with the skin at a slight angle so that the paws and tail do not come into contact with the main skin. The skins should be dried at room temperature. After drying, remove the skin from the straightener and turn it fur side out and dry it completely.

Rules for fox skins

The fox is a rather playful animal that lately increasingly kept at home. Teenagers and children especially dream about it. However, keeping this animal has its own characteristics, which our article will tell you exactly.

Appearance of a domestic fox

Experiments on domesticating foxes began in the middle of the last century, as a result of which a breed appeared that was adapted to life with humans, externally different from its wild counterpart. Muzzle domestic fox has more rounded shape, black nose, eyes turned blue. Their ears and tail also changed: the ears became droopier and the tail curled up a little. “New” chanterelles have skins ranging from dark red to clear white, there are individuals with white collars, dark paws and gray spots.

Character of a domestic fox

Domestic foxes have a good memory. Under no circumstances should you shout at them; you can only slightly shame them for their misconduct. Because if an animal takes offense at its owner, it will be forever. It will remember that something unpleasant was done to it and it will be impossible to establish contact with it. The fox will not take revenge on the person, she will simply withdraw into herself. There are people who were able to establish contact with the animal, and it responds to them with its playfulness and trustfulness.

Note! In order for the animal to sleep at night, it needs to be provided with active pastime during the day. Dogs and lots of toys are ideal for this..

Chanterelles are quite active, noisy, curious animals that do not tolerate loneliness. They are eternal children, leading a nocturnal lifestyle, they love to break everything, dig, gnaw, and steal. They demand all the attention and free time. Before purchasing this animal, you need to be mentally prepared for it.

Which animal is better to buy?

It is best to buy a pet at the age of 2-3 months. Younger age has its own characteristics with improper feeding, which can affect future health. An older animal has an established character that will be impossible to change.

How easy it is to tan a fox skin at home!

There is no need to buy an adult, since it is unlikely that you will be able to establish contact.

In addition, those who keep hamsters, mice, chinchillas, and rabbits should not purchase chanterelles, since in nature they feed excellently on them. Even living at home, she will not change her natural inclinations. It is unlikely that a fox will be able to establish a relationship with a cat due to the difference in characters; she will develop a better relationship with a dog. When choosing the sex of your pet, you should pay attention to the following: females, as a rule, are more flexible, but they have difficulty finding contact with each other. The female and male usually get along quite well with each other.

Interesting! Females have the ability to mark territory.

Conditions for keeping a fox

If, when purchasing a pet, you choose a fox, then you should take into account the conditions of its maintenance. It will not be in a private house special problems containing a fox, since an enclosure or doghouse, which will protect the animal from cold and rain. In addition, he needs to be provided with a slight elevation, allowing him to bask in the sun.

When keeping an apartment, a cage in which it will be comfortable for her to jump is suitable; inside it, it is necessary to equip a den that the fox needs for privacy. A box filled with sand is suitable as a toilet; she can easily learn to go to this tray. When keeping such an active animal, the following rules should be observed:

1. Windows and doors must be closed tightly.
2. Remove wires and breakable objects as far as possible.
3. If the owner is not present, the pet should be kept locked in a cage.

When the owner is at home, the animal must spend a lot of time in freedom, that is, outside the cage.

Note! If you have such an exotic animal at home as a fox, then you need to regularly show it to the veterinarian and get vaccinations that will not only protect the animal, but also people, this is especially true regarding rabies.

What to feed a baby fox

The question of what to feed a fox is a little easier, since they are omnivores. Usually, to adapt the animal, it is recommended to feed it with high-quality dog ​​food. Also, to ensure that he does not have intestinal problems, you can add:

Do not forget that by nature a fox cub is a predator, so it is recommended to include the following diet:

• chicken offal;
• cartilage;
• spleen

Video

How to remove and straighten a fox skin

The hunt was successfully completed, the fox was captured. The hunter is faced with the task of removing the skin from it and preserving it so that it does not deteriorate during storage. It is best to remove the skin directly in the forest while the carcass is still warm. At this time, the skin is easily separated from the body, and for aesthetic reasons, this work is better done in the forest than at home.

In addition, no matter how pleasant it is for a hunter to carry such a beautiful trophy on a belt, the additional load of 6-8 kg is greatly felt when, after a tiring day, you need to walk a few more kilometers through deep snow to the railway station.

An experienced hunter can remove the skin very quickly - in 15-20 minutes - and will not cut it anywhere. If the hunter very rarely had to do this work, it could take one and a half to two hours. Therefore, if you have little experience, and the weather is frosty and your fingers are cold without gloves, it is better to take the fox home whole and slowly remove the skin at home. On the way home, cut down a rule in the forest in the form of a large slingshot (Fig. 22) for drying the fox skin.

Rice. 22. Rules for fox skins. On the left - cut down in the forest, on the right - hewn from a board

Gorgets and boas are often made from fox skins. Finally, the hunter can make a rug or stuffed animal out of his trophy. In all these cases, it is necessary to preserve the paws with claws, the head with ears and nose, and an intact tail. This is also required by the fur standard for primary processed fox skins.

If the skin is missing any parts, then when it is handed over to the procurement authorities, its value will be reduced.

The skin is supposed to be removed from the fox using a “pipe”, without making an incision along the belly. To do this, a fresh or thawed, if it was frozen, fox carcass is placed on its back, legs spread apart and a cut is made with a sharp knife, the blade of which is directed upward, from one hind paw to another, as shown in Fig. 23. To do this, first rip open the skin at the anus with the tip of a knife and, pulling the skin, insert the end of the knife into the gap between the skin and muscles. Then, moving the knife forward, they make a cut from bottom to top along the inside of the hind legs, bringing it to the middle toes.

Rice. 23. Cuts on a fox carcass

The second incision is made along the underside of the tail from anus to the tip of the tail.

Then, proceeding in the same way, cuts are made on the front legs from the elbow joint to the base of the middle fingers of the front legs.

After this, you can start removing the skin, starting with the hind legs. To do this, pull back the skin in the cut with your left hand, and with your fingers right hand separate it from the muscles. In those places where the skin is firmly connected to the meat, the connecting films are cut with a knife. However, you should use a knife as little as possible, since it is very easy to cut the skin. After the skin is removed from the hind legs, you need to cut the tendons and muscles connecting the claws of the paws to the toes, and completely separate the skin from the paws, leaving the claws behind. In the same way, remove the skin from the front paws to the elbows.

Then, having separated the skin at the base of the tail, slip a finger under the tail shaft and, pulling back the skin and pushing the finger, gradually, vertebra by vertebra, free the tail shaft.

For further processing, it is most convenient to hang the fox upside down, inserting a stick into the cuts made with a knife between the tendons and bones of the hind legs. The skin is removed from the carcass by pulling it down by the edges and turning it with the fur inward. In several places (near the genitals, on the chest, under the front shoulder blades) it is necessary to cut the ligaments with a knife. It must be borne in mind that the fox skin on the belly is much thinner than on the back, and it is easy to tear if too much force is applied. In general, it is quite easily pulled up to the head.

Having reached the ears, you need to cut their cartilage near the skull, pull the skin up to the eyes, carefully trim the eyelids around the eyes, pull the skin off the muzzle, cut off the nasal cartilage so that the nose remains with the skin, trim the lips around and finally separate the skin from the carcass. After this, you should separate the skin from the ear cartilage and carefully cut off the cartilage so that the outer and inner parts of the ear are preserved intact.

The removed skin must be degreased. If cuts or tears were made on the skin during shooting, they must first be sewn up, pulling the edges of the tear together with thread until they touch, but without overlapping each other. Degreasing is carried out by scraping fat from the skin with a non-sharp knife, which must be moved only from the tail to the head. It is useful to wipe the skin with sawdust, which absorbs grease well, and then with a dry cloth. All cuts of meat remaining on the skin must be carefully removed. It is useful to sprinkle the most fleshy parts of the skin (lips, nose, ears, base of the tail, paws) with salt.

After this, the defatted skin, fur inside, is pulled onto a straightener and secured in several places (nose, hind legs) with nails. The raw pelt can be stretched very much, but the fur standard requires a length to width ratio of 1:5. It is useful, while the skin is still damp, to stick strips cut out of paper to the flesh of the front and hind legs and tail. The paper sticks tightly and prevents the skin from curling into a tube.

The skin is straightened on the straightener so that the tail and paws are located symmetrically and the head is not skewed. The paws are turned with the flesh outward and the claws inward.

Drying is best done at a temperature of 20-30° (in the room, but not near the fire of the stove).

Procedure for how to tan a fox skin at home

When dried near a fire, the skin becomes brittle, and when dried in the cold, it becomes loose and fragile due to the destruction of the microstructure of the skin by ice crystals.

After the skin has dried, but not completely dried, the skin is removed from the rule, turned inside out and pulled back onto the rule for final drying. If the hair is stained with blood in some places, you need to wash these places with warm water and, after drying, carefully comb it.

Once the skin is completely dry, which takes 1-2 days, it can be removed from the straightener.