BREATHING ON ELBRUS

A prerequisite for normal breathing is a certain concentration of oxygen in the air. Its deficiency causes various disorders in the body.

At an altitude of 5500 m, i.e. almost at the height of Elbrus, the atmospheric pressure is half that on the surface of the earth, and is equal to 380 mmHg Art. The partial pressure of oxygen also decreases sharply. If at atmospheric pressure 760 mmHg Art. it is equal to 159 mm Hg. Art., then already at an altitude of 5500 m it drops to 80 mmHg Art. This causes insufficient oxygenation of the blood and, consequently, insufficient supply of it to the nervous tissue, muscles and other organs. So-called oxygen starvation occurs. This is especially noticeable when climbing mountain peaks or when flying in an airplane at high altitudes, if there are no special sealed cabins with a constant oxygen concentration that ensures normal human breathing. When there is not enough oxygen, the pulse and breathing become more frequent, fatigue, muscle weakness, cyanosis appear, hearing and visual acuity are lost, and in severe cases there may even be neuropsychiatric disorders. This condition is called altitude, or mountain sickness. Similar disturbances in the body occur at an altitude of 4000 m and more. Elbrus height 5633 m, and the oxygen concentration at its top is so low that a person cannot stay there without prior training.

At the dawn of aeronautics, three French aeronauts flew in a hot air balloon. They climbed to a height of 8000 m. Only one of the aeronauts remained alive, but he also sank to the ground in a very serious condition. The conditions for human existence at high altitudes were not yet known at that time, and the death of balloonists served as an impetus for the study of these issues. The outstanding Russian scientist I.M. Sechenov was the first to establish that the death of balloonists occurred because they lacked oxygen due to the rarefied air in the upper layers of the atmosphere.

With oxygen deficiency, breathing becomes more frequent and deepens. At the same time, more air passes through the lungs per minute and oxygen saturation of the blood increases, which causes the number of red blood cells in the blood to increase and the amount of hemoglobin to increase, and therefore the binding and transfer of oxygen increases. The heart also begins to pump more blood in 1 minute than under normal conditions, and, most importantly, tissue resistance to oxygen deficiency increases. This is how the body is able to compensate for the lack of oxygen.

To combat altitude sickness, training is of great importance. It adapts the body well to low oxygen concentrations.

After training, a person can be at an altitude of 5000 m and even rise to greater heights without experiencing unpleasant symptoms of altitude sickness. Thus, through training, climbers achieved that without oxygen devices in the Pamirs they climbed to 7495 m, and on Chomolungma - to 8400 m. The body has such great capabilities if it is trained correctly. Even subtle chemical processes occurring in cells can adapt to living conditions.

INHALE AND EXHALE

The lungs never stretch or contract on their own; they passively follow chest. The chest cavity expands due to the contraction of the respiratory muscles, which primarily include the diaphragm and intercostal muscles.

When inhaling, the diaphragm lowers by 3-4 cm. Lowering it by 1 cm increases chest volume by 250-300 ml. Thus, only due to contraction of the diaphragm, the volume of the chest increases by 1000-1200 ml. When the intercostal muscles contract, they raise the ribs, which rotate somewhat around their axis, as a result of which the chest cavity also expands.

The lungs follow the expanding chest, stretch themselves, and the pressure in them drops. This creates a difference between atmospheric pressure and pressure in the lungs. As the pressure in the lungs drops below atmospheric pressure, air rushes into the lungs and fills them. Inhalation occurs. After inhalation comes exhalation. During normal exhalation, the diaphragm and intercostal muscles relax, the chest collapses and its volume decreases. At the same time, the lungs also collapse and the air is exhaled out. In a strong exhalation, the abdominal press is involved, which, tensing, presses on the intra-abdominal organs. They,

August 2008

Elbrus is the highest point in Europe. It is difficult to find a more prestigious mountain brand. So I decided to put my bold exclamation mark over this point, despite the proverb “A smart person will not go to the mountains.”

Events developed at lightning speed. Following an unsuccessful attempt to board a Moscow-Volgograd plane, a short Internet search for a travel alternative followed. On one of the forums there was a post by a certain “Ibonefig” with an announced flight on August 6 in the direction of Mineralnye Vody. Goal: climbing with the goal of climbing. Not a photo, not ethnic, not beach... It’s just stupid to go towards the heavens until you hit the “5642” mark.

The company for "Ibonefig" (in the world - Slava, a businessman from St. Petersburg, who went to Elya more than once) was a pretty good one. 1) Lena is an experienced cyclist from St. Petersburg, who has traveled all over the world from Oman and Karelia to the Fann Mountains. 2) Lena is an analyst from Renaissance Credit, a graduate of the Moscow State University VMK with interests in the field of CRM, risk management and market research, a mountaineering athlete, as well as a water and horse rider in the past. Lenka conquered Elbrus exactly a year ago on her second attempt and decided to consolidate her success. Actually, I joined this difficult trinity - as a swimmer and park runner. Face control for entering the dream team: “What is your fitness level in general? Can you run 10 kilometers in 45-50?”

2 years ago I took part in a survival run. 32 km in 2:51. Now I swim 3–7 km every week at the Olimpiysky. I live on the 15th floor and breathe rarefied Moscow air - in general, chronic metropolitan hypoxia. After this, Elbrus is not at all scary.

The flight from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody is 2 hours 5 minutes. At the same time, of all the existing mineral waters, Aeroflot for some reason only offers Aqua Mineral, whose minerality I personally have strong doubts about.

In general, you need to get to the village of Terskol - you can do this either from Nalchik or from Mineralnye Vody. The nuance is that there is no regular transport from Mineralnye Vody - you need to order a transfer (about 2 hours drive, from 2 to 3 thousand rubles, depending on the car). Nalchik is the most budget option: there is a direct train from Moscow, and a regular bus to Terskol every day.

Mineralnye Vody is a transport hub for the region, nothing more. In fact, there are no mineral waters in the city. To get water from here you need to go by train - to Zheleznovodsk, Pyatigorsk (1 hour), Essentuki and Kislovodsk (2 hours). The city is famous only for a certain holy fool named Theodosius. Schema-hieromonk Theodosius, nicknamed the Caucasian, lived for more than 100 years. During his lifetime, he became famous for his gifts of clairvoyance, healing and miracles. In 1927, the elder rejected the apostate Soviet church and became one of the pillars - no more nor less - of the Russian True Orthodox Catacomb Church, for which he was subjected to arrests and persecution. He served secretly, at home. As they say now, mobile workplace. Father Feodosius walked the streets of Mineralnye Vody in a colored shirt, played with children who nicknamed him “Grandfather Kuzyuka,” helped people, performing miracles that local residents still remember. During the Great Patriotic War The elder earnestly prayed for the victory of Russia, for the health and peace of its soldiers. This paranormal man died in 1948. Despite the fact that Theodosius never recognized the Moscow Patriarchate, on April 11, 1995, with the personal consent of Patriarch Alexy, the honest remains of the catacomb priest were removed from the grave and placed in the Archangel Michael Church of the Moscow Patriarchate, and in 1998 they were transferred to the Intercession Cathedral in the city Mineralnye Vody. And recently the holy relics of the great elder, the mourner and prayer book of the Russian land, disappeared. The Internal Affairs Directorate opened a criminal case into their disappearance, but knowledgeable people say that the elder mysteriously left the temple himself. What other miracles will he show us?

We settled in Azau - a picturesque place 4 km from the village of Terskol - right under the ski lift, in the "cafetelle" (cafe + hotel) Free Rider. A suitable name for a place for skiers without brakes and ticketless users of the above-installed cable car. Rooms range from “simple” (300 rubles/person, amenities on the floor) to “complex” (about 1500 rubles, luxury). The altitude here is 2350, which is not bad for starting acclimatization.

Around there are a lot of other nice hotels and private apartments (from 500 rubles/person) and restaurants with Caucasian cuisine (shorpa, khychin, shashlik, lagman, etc.) and characteristic music (for example, Arsen Petrosov - “We’re getting high”, Shamkhan Daldaev - “This is the Caucasus”, the group “Blatnoy Udar” - “Song about marijuana”, Saidbek Abdullaev - “Kosyachok”, Zamir Bashirov - “My Lezginochka - Marinochka” and a certain Khadzha with the hit “Wai-wai-wai”). Attention: last human food before the ascent! Overlooking Elbrus.

Many people use the Azau station lift to climb Elbrus. First, a multi-seat "MTS" car, similar to a trolleybus suspended from wires, will take you to the Krugozor station (3000m). At the same time, the more modern, high-speed and less crowded “Beeline” catapults of the new, competing lift are rushing in parallel. Funny! By the way, MTS did not work at all above 4000 meters in August 2008, Beeline and Megafon were better. Next is the second stage of the pendulum cable car with the MIR station at the end (3500m). It turns out that the station was not flooded, but lowered to this highland :) Finally, the last stage, a chairlift type, will take you straight to “Gara-bashi” (3800m) - the “Bochki” shelter is located right there (12 six-seater residential trailers), from here you can reach the legendary "Shelter-11" (4200m). Each stage of the lift costs from 70 to 100 rubles. Experienced climbers get to the “Barrels” not on a lift, but on foot, gradually acclimatizing to the altitude.

"Shelter-11" - formerly the highest altitude hotel in the world, where in Soviet times party secretaries took their secretaries for a romantic breakfast with the appropriate look - burned down in 1998 due to violations of the rules fire safety foreign tourists and domestic guides. That is, drunk. In 2001, the first climbers were welcomed by a new shelter built on the site of an old diesel station.

Just above the successor of “Shelter-11” there are a dozen guest houses (300-400 rubles per person-night). The conditions there are Spartan - bunks, a gas burner and a kitchen table. The only difference is the cubic meters of space and storage capacity. The toilet is outside. Water in the stream. However, compared to the snow tents next door, you don’t feel like Bigfoot in the guest house. It is advisable to book bunks in advance.

At noon we had already checked into a hut near the “Shelter”, at the point where acclimatization began. I'm eating my first hematogen. There are Poles living in the house with us, as well as two young Muscovite women who lie flat because of the miner and refuse to go up. In this miniature Alpine purgatory, strange words like “let’s go to the scythe”, “cirus”, “traverse”, “acclimate”, “upper shepherds”, “cut to death on the saddle” hurt your ears, and shabby life-looking guys and girls are walking around - as if from some ledorub-party. Most of them practice shamanism in these tents and climb to the top the first time with minimal acclimatization - in one day from Azau to Azau. Some, however, come down with their nostrils tightly plugged with red scarves, looking like vomited cats. These will most likely not be repeated. There are also other categories of climbers - curious office clerks with engaged guides, as well as fanatical pros from the “7 Summits Club” - the so-called. summiteers on all seven continents (Everest (8848m), Aconcagua (6962m), McKinley (6194m), Kilimanjaro (5895m), Elbrus (5642m), Vinson Massif (4897m), Carstensz Pyramid (4884m) and Kosciuszko Peak (2228m).

Despite the mountain tourist marking of the route, 10-15 people die every year on the slopes of Elbrus. This mainly happens due to sharp deterioration weather, decreased visibility, which happens here regularly. Including in the summer. In winter, it is generally unrealistic for non-professionals to go there. Not one mortal can penetrate to the top of this mountain without harm to himself, the Karachais say: the top of the mountain should not be trampled under human foot. However, as statistics from previous years of mountain travel agencies show, nine out of ten of their clients successfully climb Elbrus under favorable weather conditions (for which you can easily wait a whole week - right up to the end of the dates of the purchased week-long tour). Neither Putin nor Medvedev is anywhere yet, except career ladder, did not ascend, but the former head of the Russian FSB Nikolai Patrushev in 2003 successfully climbed to the western peak - from the very “Barrels”. Together with a special forces group. Following the results of the exercise, the FSB director highly appreciated the actions of the special forces.

Before the trip, I was offered an “economy option” for a prestigious eight-day climb in a group to “visit the area of ​​the Northern Elbrus region untouched by civilization” and “shed the burden of everyday bustle and enjoy unity with nature” for as much as 16,800 rubles. A private instructor-guide - Valera Shuvalov (8-928-9515591, ) - charges 5000-6000 rubles per person for escort to the top (possibly not in a group), including accommodation in his hut for the period of acclimatization, but without equipment. I wildly ended up with the same 5000-6000 rubles, but including 5 days of equipment rental - a backpack, foam, crampons, ice ax, plastic boots, trekking poles and a sleeping bag.

The miner begins to hammer closer to the first evening. Hand on ice, they recommend drinking more (preferably sour - I, for example, saved myself and saved others with the help of hibiscus), eat vitamins (for example, Ascorutin, ascorbic acid up to 1.5 g per day), glucose, hematogen and nothing else. Under no circumstances should you lie flat - you need to move, sit, joke. Sleep with your head elevated. If there is no insomnia, gee... Some people like to eat anabolic steroids like diacabra and hypoxene. In addition, according to some studies, tablets of the famous sky blue color help with mountain sickness - VIAGRA significantly improves the blood circulation of climbers. Or maybe a protruding sleeping bag creates an additional “air cushion” and retains heat? Without Viagra, both our Lenas groan the first night, but Slava goes with the Poles to the top. I look after them - into the starry sky, in dull, painful insomnia. Remember: no pharmacology can completely replace the acclimatization process (5-7 days for Elbrus) - just as it cannot cancel the laws of gravity. Elbrus is not a bullshit mountain. Difficulty category - 2A - was given for height, not complexity, Elbrus must be respected. And all the other mountains too.

For reference: what is hypoxia (lack of oxygen) and where does it come from?

Research by Academician of the USSR Academy of Medical Sciences N.N. Sirotinin and his students helped to establish the phase nature of the brain’s work when climbing to heights, disruption of fine differentiation processes, and the appearance of shifts in the functional activity of the brain already at an altitude of 2000m. At relatively high altitudes, diffuse inhibition develops, turning into sleep, and at altitudes of 4000-5000m and above a person may lose the ability to critically assess the situation and his own condition. According to the literature, at an altitude of 3000m, performance decreases to 10%, and at altitudes above 6000m - by 50%. In general, Shelter-11 is not the most suitable place for brainstorming. The brain is the main organ of a climber.

It’s damn interesting to follow the changes inside your own body - the increasing volume of circulating blood due to the mobilization of reserves from the depot - the spleen, liver and other organs, and the activation of previously closed capillaries. In high altitude conditions, breathing and heart rate increase, changes blood pressure(moderate increase in systolic with stable diastolic), coronary blood flow increases and vascular permeability increases.

In short, the effect on the body from one such ascent is approximately the same as spending a week with a cold with a temperature of 38C. There is nothing useful in this - and there cannot be! Have you seen Abalakov in old age? Have you heard of Parkinson's disease, where there is shaking all over the body? Austenite, bainite, trostite, martensite - even steel changes its structure depending on external influences. Climbing to heights of more than 5 km is poison, unnecessary stress for any organism, even the most trained and acclimatized. It is a myth that the highland climate is beneficial (this does not apply to moderate altitudes up to 2500m). They say that high altitudes are only beneficial for schizophrenics (supposedly their remissions decrease and become easier), but there is still no strict scientific consensus on this matter. Just below "Barrels", by the way, there is a former "sanatorium" for "schizos".

The etiology of schizophrenia is still unknown to scientists. But mountain sickness, characterized by loss of appetite, headache, insomnia and other unpleasant symptoms, has been studied quite well. In different areas it occurs at different heights. It’s all about different mountain climatic factors - temperature, atmospheric pressure, humidity, etc. Thus, manifestations of mountain sickness in the Alps occur at an altitude of about 2500 m, in the Caucasus - 3000 m, in the Tien Shan - 3500 m, in the Himalayas - 4500 m. As a rule, the closer to the equator, the easier it is to tolerate mountain sickness. At altitudes up to 4000 m, an acute degree of mountain sickness (when it is necessary to urgently turn down) is registered in 15-20% of climbers, and above 5000 m - in almost everyone.

On the very first morning, Slava conquered the eastern peak and solemnly rode down from it on a board. Now they are preparing to do the same in the western one. Slava failed to make a “cross” - to visit both peaks at once in one go. He spends the second night below at an altitude of 2000 in Terskol. He seems like a desperate guy with a desperate body. Returning to us back at around 4200 the next day, Slava brought news - “from there”, from below.

It turns out that on the night of August 7-8, 2008 (around 00.15 Moscow time), Georgian troops began a massive artillery shelling of the capital of South Ossetia and surrounding areas. A few hours later, the city of Tskhinvali was stormed as part of the “operation to restore constitutional order.” On August 8, 2008, Russia officially joined the conflict on the side of South Ossetia as part of an “operation to force the Georgian side to peace.” A five-day war began. But this is some 400 km from here!

“Gradov” seemed not to be heard... For three days we listened to the quickening pulse and looked closely at the peak, which we, as Georgian special forces - Tskhinvali, had to storm. Elbrus turned out to be frankly two-headed (see the flag of Kabardino-Balkaria), a dormant volcano. According to Georgian legends, the double-headed nature of the mountain is explained by the fact that Noah’s ark, during the decline of water after the flood, while sailing, caught on Elbrus and split the peak in two. The last eruption of the volcano occurred 900 years ago, and at a distance of 700 km from the volcano, the ash layer reaches 70 cm (in the vicinity of modern Astrakhan). Some scientists believe that Elbrus may wake up again in our century.

The past of Elbrus is covered in legends - here is the ancient myth of the fire god Prometheus, chained by the will of Zeus to the slope of Elbrus, and legends about the existence at the foot of Elbrus of an ancient Slavic-Scythian city, the Irian city, founded by Prince Kiy, the son of Arius and the grandson of the Sun-god Yar. For the first time, the eastern peak of the “altar at the throne of the Most High” was conquered in 1829 by an expedition led by General G. A. Emanuel, head of the Caucasian fortified line. Emanuel's expedition consisted of 650 soldiers and 350 line Cossacks. Don’t be surprised - nowadays, on fine summer days, approximately the same number of people climb to the western peak. Don't overcrowd. The western, highest peak, was conquered much later - in 1874 by English climbers led by F. Grove and Balkar guide A. Sottaev. The flow of foreigners to Elbrus will not weaken even now - there are many Balts, Poles, Germans and Americans. Still, Elbrus is a magnitude on a planetary scale, one of seven.

It's funny that many non-athletes and non-climbers - ordinary romantic office clerks - take a week's vacation and go to conquer Elbrus. What kind of vacation is this??? Not only does the body get pretty tense after fulfilling EBITDA plans and reaching new sales heights, but the process of ascension itself is incredibly tedious. On the other hand, it is harsh, but useful way understand and realize the futility and vanity of worldly squabbles, petty quarrels, dissatisfaction with bosses, political fuss and other things in comparison with what you experience at the top. Previously, in alpine camps, offenders were sent to Elya as punishment. All normal climbers went to other, “interesting” mountains, regardless of the relative height. Elbrus is not Ksenia Sobchak. They go to it as if they were going to a scaffold. They get up at 1-3 in the morning and stupidly saw up for 7-9 hours, without any special stops, along an extremely unscenic slope. There is NOTHING at the very top. No Buddha in the lotus position, no feet of Allah, no relics of Theodosius of the Caucasus, no Russian tricolor. There is not even any pillar or stone against which one could take a memorable photo: “ELBRUS, 5642m.” In general, having reached the empty peak, everyone turns down and slowly wanders back - another 3-4 hours. Have you dreamed about this when thinking about your vacation?

Do not forget: mountaineering is a long and monotonous dragging of large weights at high altitudes, associated with a risk to life and at your own expense. Not the best best way winter over the summer :) To my deepest surprise, mountaineering turned out to be a rather self-centered sport and recreation. What we were brought up on - stories about how everyone is friends in the mountains, everyone should help each other - does not always work. If you go with a partner in a bunch, that’s one thing. There are no connections on Elbrus - everyone rushes at their own pace, with their own water (asking for which from someone is supposedly considered bad manners - you must have your own!) and with your own cockroaches. Everything seems to be to blame for the rather significant costs of climbing and specific climatic factors. A person who has paid several thousand dollars for climbing Kili and sees someone in need of help and evacuation down will not always want to abandon everything, his plans, damn Kili - and go down. In addition, due to such annoying “delays” you can miss good weather, live in a mountain camp on the mountain for a week - and end up returning home without your cherished conquest. Of course, this does not apply to all climbers and mountain tourism enthusiasts without exception, but it definitely gave me food for thought.

The first two days of acclimatization we climbed up to the Pastukhov rocks (4700m). You should wear crampons! The ascent is along a closed glacier (20°). There are no cracks here - they are all 50-100 meters from the main path. Above them there is an ice field (in winter) and a rather vomited oblique shelf. In this area you can smell sulfur dioxide coming from the fumaroles on the southern slope. In unfavorable winds this is a serious hindrance for climbers. Further, the route to the top passes through the saddle. From the saddle, both peaks rise to a height of about 500 m. The ascent to the Eastern peak begins 100 m above the destroyed hut (in the saddle). The journey through snow and scree there takes 1.5-2 hours. The ascent to the Western peak goes along an unexpectedly steep slope to the low dome of the peak (2-2.5 hours).

When the weather worsens, it is very difficult to navigate the long, smooth slopes of Elbrus! From the first signs of bad weather (light clouds) to total loss visibility may last less than 3 hours.

After two and a half days of acclimatization, at 3:15 am I went out for the final assault. In splendid isolation, because my fellow travelers were not ready yet. Joined the countless night climbers - the lights of the lanterns merge with the bottomless starry sky. By dawn (5 am) I was already “at Shepherds”. Perhaps the most memorable sight that I have from the climb is the huge shadow of Elbrus at dawn, in the rays of the rising sun. He overtook the stormtroopers who had been crushed by the oblique shelf and were “anchored”, and relaxed passed the saddle - almost Tverskaya Street. Probably the most terrible place on the route is the sharp rise immediately after the col. I was at the top around 8 a.m., having caught up with my Latvian neighbors, who had gone out on a snowcat an hour and a half earlier.

Who, so to speak, can be found, besides Latvians, at the top? According to Kabardian legend, Jin the Padishah, the king of spirits and ruler of birds, lives on Elbrus, who has a wonderful gift of predicting the future. The formidable old man looks from his throne into the future and waits for the punitive giants who will one day conquer his gloomy, transcendental kingdom. According to Georgians, the hero Amiran languishes on Elbrus. Together with this prisoner in the dark cave there is a dog that tirelessly licks its master's shackles. If you believe the Persians, a huge gray bird named Simurgh has been living on the top of Elbrus for many millennia. She sees the past with one eye, and the future with the other. The Abkhazians say that on the top of Elbrus there is a terrible abyss in which a chained giant lies, and if any mortal looks there, he asks: “What is happening at the top? Is the grass green? Do families live peacefully? Is the wife faithful to her husband?” They answer him: “Yes.” And the giant groans: “I will remain in captivity for a long time!” Finally, another legend claims that on the snowy peak of Elbrus, on a huge rock-stone, an old man with a beard long to his feet has been sitting for millennia, chained because he wanted to overthrow the great god. Once you look at the old man, you die. Among Muslims, we have heard the belief that through the gorges of Elbrus there is a gate to the land of spirits “Dzhinistan”, where forever young charming maidens live. This version is my favorite!!!

The summit of Elbrus was not only a mythical place, but also - due to its symbolic significance as the highest point in Europe - the arena of fierce confrontation during the Great Patriotic War. During the Battle of the Caucasus on August 21, 1942, units of the German mountain rifle division "Edelweiss" occupied the mountain bases "Krugozor" and "Priut-11" and planted Nazi banners on the western peak of Elbrus. By the middle of the winter of 1942-1943, fascist troops were driven out from the slopes of Elbrus, and Soviet mountaineering fighters accordingly hoisted red flags. By the way, there are no edelweiss flowers in the Caucasus! And it never happened. They exist, perhaps, in the Alps, in the Pamirs.

So, 5642. It's done! To my amazement, there were NO flags or plaques there. But there are chess sets for mountain grandmasters, 10-kilogram weights for high-altitude jocks, and a modest phallic symbol made of stone wrapped in multi-colored Tibetan rags. Although some may believe that these are scraps of material from the tent of Abraham, which was pitched at the top. Below - CBD and Georgia. It’s especially nice that there are no clouds above you. They fly under your feet. According to an ancient Georgian legend, from the top of Elbrus you can see paradise: the sight of the latter is so beautiful that after that a person no longer wants to look at anything earthly - he loses his sight. I testify: without sunglasses there is absolutely nothing to do in paradise! A shot against the backdrop of a euphorically piercing sky – and a couple of hours later I was already in the “Shelter”, telling the newly arrived about my fucking climbing day with the total calm of an experienced climber. Now, it seems, I’m even entitled to a corresponding badge. “USSR Climber” of the 1st stage – I would put it next to the “Parachutist’s Certificate”. Although as the climbers themselves say: “A chicken is not a bird, a badge is not a climber.”

FOR REFERENCE: Regulations on the “Soviet Mountaineer” badge. Standards for the badge approved by the Central Executive Committee of the USSR. 1. The right to receive a badge is enjoyed by workers who have all the rights of citizens of the USSR. 2. To receive the “USSR Climber” badge, you must do the following: 1) Pass the standards for the 1st stage GTO badge. 2) climb to the top of Elbrus or to a peak, the difficulty of climbing to which is equivalent to climbing to the top of Elbrus. 3) Master the technique of walking on mountain slopes: the ability to handle climbing equipment, cut steps on ice, walk on crampons. Knowledge of rope guarding. Ability to overcome scree, rocky, icy, firn slopes. 4) Knowledge of the basic rules of the mountain regime, rules of movement and rest, food and drink in the mountains, knowledge of the basic rules of protection from cold, wind, blindness and altitude sickness. 5) Knowledge of the basic elementary rules of first aid in the mountains in case of a fall, frostbite, or altitude sickness. 6) Ability to read and correct maps."

Climbing is a type of useful masochism that allows you to understand and feel the beauty green grass on the lawn, clean and quiet water, plenty of air and a smooth road, after you go down from the mountain - into a world where all this is there. I spent the last day in the Elbrus region exploring the valleys adjacent to the village of Terskol. Flowers in the Azau Valley are a stunning contrast to the stones and permafrost at the recent peak. The thistles here are the size of a fist, the cornflowers are white, there is a mass of flora unknown to me - great! In the Terskol gorge there is a mass grave of 38 soldiers of the Red Army, defenders of the village of Terskol in the battles of 1942, next to it is a monument to journalists (about 25 people) who died during the Caucasian War of 1994-1996, very original even for an aquaskeptic like me - a waterfall "Maiden's Braids" (30m H2O at an altitude of 2900m, listed in the book "100 most beautiful waterfalls in the world", V. Vysotsky swam in it during the filming of the film "Vertical", according to local legend, if you want to find your betrothed, you need to swim in it) , and at the very top is the unique observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences for the study of macrocosm (height 3095m; has at its disposal three stellar and two solar telescope, but it only works at night, so don’t count on free astro viewing!). Before the construction of the cable car, this trail through the city of Terskol was the main route along which climbers climbed Elbrus. It was also used to import all the materials for the construction of the high-mountain hotel "Shelter 11" on the slope of Elbrus and the New Horizons observatory.

In the afternoon of the same day I hurried to Cheget. It is a kilometer below from Terskol. Cheget is known as a ski resort. Here in winter there are myriads of lovers of difficult slopes, and on Elbrus - those who prefer simple slopes and snowboarders. In the boarding house "Cheget" I was pleased to see a functioning Sberbank ATM (in Terskol itself there was only a "Eurokommerts"). At 17:00, except for me, there were no idiot climbers. Unlike Elbrus, Cheget and a number of other western gorges are included in the border zone. Therefore, to enter here you need to obtain a special permit. In "Alpinindustry", they say, they do this for all the gorges you are interested in at once for 300 rubles/person. I walked through the Donguz-Orun gorge along the peaks of the Main Caucasian ridge, called the “Long Family”, since it is very difficult to pronounce and, especially, remember their local names, and impossible on an empty stomach. In an hour and a half of walking, I managed to get to the famous Blue Lake - Donguz- Orun Kol (“lake where pigs swim” - from Balkar). Now imagine that you are walking along a slightly boring path, on the left side stick out two mountains, also boring with their gloomy appearance, on which, moreover, something periodically knocks, rumbles and falls down - either climbers, or stones. And suddenly a deep basin opens under your feet, and in it is a multi-colored quiet lake. It's a shame they called him a pig. Pigs once actually swam here and bred nearby. Or rather, they were bred by ancient Georgian citizens. The lake is multi-colored: one part is turquoise or green-blue, and the other is yellow-brown with shades of the red part of the spectrum. And these colors don't mix. Why is the water like this? unusual color? It's not just about pig ablutions - it affects high content something tungsten-molbdenum, and also, probably, specific high-altitude (2700m) bacteria.

If I had a couple more days left, I would go to the Irik and Adyr-su gorges, to the Shkheldinsky glacier with its due waterfall, to the Narzan Glade. However, my companions who descended from Elbrus carried me further - a morning transfer to Pyatigorsk. In the next two weeks, as it turned out, unbottled Caucasian wines were waiting for me mineral waters, train to Stalingrad, dead waters of Baskunchak and Elton, transfer on the Tyumen-Baku sauna train to Derbent and a week on the Caspian coast and in the mountain villages of Dagestan. It’s just that once you leave the Caucasus, you inevitably return there.

Elbrus - like me after 5 years of living in South Korea - was stuck somewhere between Europe and Asia. This certainly brings us closer. Tradition says that the one who, despite all the dangers, reaches the top will be filled with miraculous strength. In Adygea, Elbrus is called Oshkhamakho - the mountain of happiness. 5642 meters of no stones, no snow - happiness. On August 10, 2008, I simply entered into Elya’s share.

Sergei Konovalov
21/10/2008 22:15

The opinions of tourists may not coincide with the opinions of the editors.

Textbook for 7th grade

§ 21.4. How does atmospheric pressure depend on altitude? Theme development

As we rise, the atmospheric pressure decreases because the higher we are, the lower the height of the air column above us.

For low altitudes (tens and even hundreds of meters), the decrease in pressure with height can be approximately calculated by taking the air density p constant (at sea level - about 1.3 kg/m3). This means that when rising to a height h, the air pressure decreases by ρ air gh. It follows that when rising, for example, to a height of 10 m (a three-story building), the pressure decreases by approximately 130 Pa. This is slightly less than 1 mmHg. Art.

For high altitudes, for example in the mountains, it must be taken into account that as the altitude increases, the air density decreases. Therefore, as altitude increases, air pressure decreases more slowly than if the air density remained constant. In Fig. 21.7 shows the pressure values ​​at the top of Elbrus - the highest mountain in Europe (Russia) and at the top of Chomolungma - the highest mountain in the world (China). We see that at an altitude of about 9 km, the air pressure is approximately 30% of normal atmospheric pressure.

A prerequisite for normal breathing is a certain concentration of oxygen in the air. Its deficiency causes various disorders in the body.

At an altitude of 5500 m, i.e. almost at the height of Elbrus, the atmospheric pressure is half that on the surface of the earth and is equal to 380 mm Hg. Art. The partial pressure of oxygen also decreases sharply. If at atmospheric pressure 760 mm Hg. Art. it is equal to 159 mm Hg. Art., then already at an altitude of 5500 m it drops to 80 mm Hg. Art. This causes insufficient oxygenation of the blood and, consequently, insufficient supply of it to the nervous tissue, muscles and other organs. The so-called oxygen starvation. This is especially noticeable when climbing mountain peaks or when flying in airplanes at high altitudes, if there are no special hermetic cabins with a constant oxygen concentration that ensures normal human breathing. When there is not enough oxygen, the pulse and breathing become more frequent, fatigue, muscle weakness, cyanosis appear, hearing and visual acuity are lost, and in severe cases there may even be neuropsychiatric disorders. This condition is called high-rise or mountain sickness Similar disturbances in the body occur at an altitude of 4000 m or more. The height of Elbrus is 5642 m, and the oxygen concentration at its peak is so low that a person cannot be there without prior training.

At the dawn of aeronautics, three French aeronauts flew in a hot air balloon. They rose to a height of 8000 m. Only one of the aeronauts remained alive, but he also sank to the ground in a very serious condition. The conditions for human existence at high altitudes were not yet known at that time, and the death of balloonists served as an impetus for the study of these issues. The outstanding Russian scientist I.M. Sechenov was then the first to establish that the death of balloonists occurred because they lacked oxygen due to the rarefied air in the upper layers of the atmosphere.

With oxygen deficiency, breathing becomes more frequent and deepens. At the same time, more air passes through the lungs per minute and oxygen saturation of the blood increases, which causes the number of red blood cells in the blood to increase and the amount of hemoglobin to increase, and therefore the binding and transfer of oxygen increases. The heart also begins to pump more blood in 1 minute than under normal conditions, and, most importantly, tissue resistance to oxygen deficiency increases. This is how the body compensates for the lack of oxygen.

To combat altitude sickness, training is of great importance. It adapts the body well to low oxygen concentrations.

After training, a person can be at an altitude of 5000 m and even rise to greater heights without experiencing unpleasant symptoms of altitude sickness. Thus, through training, climbers achieved that without oxygen devices they climbed 7495 m in the Pamirs, and 8400 m in Chomolungma. The body has such great capabilities if it is properly trained. Even subtle chemical processes occurring in cells can adapt to different living conditions.

Tips and instructions

Part I

Elbrus - the highest point in Russia and Europe

Elbrus is an adornment and symbol of the entire Caucasus, a huge and majestic massif dominating the entire mountainous country. From the point of view of unemotional science, this is an extinct volcano in the central part of the Caucasus Mountains, located slightly north of the Main (Watershed) Range. The generally accepted name is of Persian origin, local names adopted by the Balkars, Karachais (Mingi-Tau) and Kabardians, Circassians (Oshkhamakho), have now found their place as the names of hotels, restaurants, and no one is seriously trying to challenge the main name. The word "Elbrus" has entered all Caucasian languages ​​and men with this name can be found among people from completely different nations.

The Asian origin of the name Elbrus only confirms that Elbrus is located more in Asia than in Europe. In Soviet times, there was quite a long discussion on the topic of drawing the border between Europe and Asia. The main geographical authorities of the country, Tanfilyev, Dobrynin, Shchukin, Gvozdetsky, attributed the Greater Caucasus to Asia. The Geographical Society of the USSR held a special meeting on this issue in 1958. It was customary to consider the Kuma-Manych depression, which was once a strait between the Caspian and Black Seas, to be the border of two parts of the world. This provision was included in school textbooks and I remember very well how I proudly traced the map with a pointer: Ural Mountains - Ural River - Kuma-Manych Depression. True, the learned geographers themselves admitted that, in natural terms, the Black Sea region and the Kuban lowland should be classified as Europe. It is interesting that in an article devoted to this topic, Nikolai Gvozdetsky refers to the opinion of geographers of the Transcaucasian republics. They unanimously classify their countries as Europe, and the North Caucasus as Asia.

Everyone knows that the British, in principle, are not very interested in the opinions of their eternal opponents from Russia. And this time for it they Thanks a lot! The inclusion of Europe among the seven continents is a purely political decision, which considers itself a special European civilization. This is probably logical and fair. The inclusion of the Caucasus into Europe by European (English) scientists was apparently purely mechanical. They did not have meetings like ours. The Encyclopedia Britannica is considered by them to be a kind of “book of laws” and it identified Elbrus in Europe. Thank you!

Geological phenomenon of Elbrus

Elbrus is an extinct volcano with two peaks almost equal in height. The lower, Eastern peak (5621 m) has a clearly defined “horseshoe” crater, while the crater of the Western peak (5642 m) is more destroyed and obscure. Both peaks and both of their craters are considered by geologists as new formations inside another, large and old crater.

Geologists say that 10-12 million years ago, in the place of the current mountains, there was the so-called Greater Caucasus Marginal Sea of ​​shallow depth, and about 5 million years ago, mountain growth began here, and it was most intense at first within the former shelf. It was the central part of the Greater Caucasus (the region of Elbrus, Kazbek), which was included in mountain formation earlier than others, and became the highest in this region. But then it rose like an island among the seas and lakes that washed it - some of them were still discovered by primitive man.

The formation of Elbrus dates back to the time when the Caucasus mountains already existed, in fact we're talking about about the last 1.5 - 2 million years. As a result of tectonic disturbances that occurred at that time in the earth's crust, which consisted of solid granite-crystalline rocks, a huge amount of molten lava erupted from the bowels of the earth. It is believed that the first eruption was of colossal force. Much later, when the molten masses had already cooled and began to undergo destruction, the newly awakened volcano ejected new masses of lava from its depths. This went on for many thousands of years: the volcano either subsided or resumed its activity again, and gradually, over many millennia, the main cone of the mountain was formed.

The last major eruption was about 2,500 years ago, and the last lava eruptions are only about a thousand years old. Strabo (1st century AD) has an image of Elbrus as an active volcano. Nowadays, Elbrus practically does not remind of itself as a volcano. There are many stories about gases coming out in the area of ​​the saddle, there are warm mineral springs... Although there are countless predictions that predicted a new eruption, it is not yet in sight.

Elbrus is one of the most gentle high-mountain volcanoes. Its slopes are covered with a thick layer of ice, which smoothes out the steepness and unevenness of the volcanic pyramid.

The total area of ​​Elbrus glaciers was recently estimated at 130 km2 and is currently shrinking every year and no one knows the exact figure. The most famous glaciers: Big and Small Azau, Terskol. All of them are retreating, due to which the landscapes are constantly changing - new lakes appear, trails change.

Climate

In general, the Central Caucasus region belongs to the zone of temperate continental climate, with a clearly defined altitudinal zone. There is much less precipitation here than on the Black Sea coast and more than in the eastern regions. The Caucasus Mountains are located generally along the parallel, acting as a barrier to the northern winds; due to their high altitude, they act as the main climate-forming factor in the region.

The very complex terrain of the territory, a significant difference in absolute heights above sea level, the influence of glaciers, the proximity of the Black Sea and a large volume of air exchange with the free atmosphere - all this ensures a rather sharp difference in the climatic features of the Elbrus region from others, even nearby ones. Elbrus is the most important climate-forming factor. This, in particular, significantly complicates the ability to accurately predict the current weather.

In general, the Elbrus region is distinguished by relatively high daytime air temperatures, although average daily fluctuations can be 19 - 22 degrees. The wind regime varies greatly depending on the height and location of the place - from the usual calm at the bottom of the valley to frequent hurricanes above 4000 m. Climbers climbing Elbrus must be prepared even in summer for arctic cold and strong winds. Average annual precipitation depends on altitude (increases with altitude) and ranges from 700 to 1200 mm and in some years can increase to 950 mm in the valley.

Winds prevail at all altitudes throughout the year western directions. Mountain-valley winds are typical in the valleys. In Terskol and Azau, as a rule, there are no stormy winds. As you climb, their likelihood increases. At altitudes of more than 4000 m (the height of the rocks in the area of ​​​​the Shelter - 11 site), winds of storm force (up to 15 m/s) and hurricane force are observed; in February, at a temperature of -40 degrees, winds reach strengths of up to 40 m/s and higher. And they all blow from the west...

The northern Elbrus region is located in the so-called “rain shadow” zone, the strip between the Main Caucasus Range and the Rocky Range. The winds that bring the largest amount of moisture come here having lost their moisture. As a result, the amount of precipitation in these regions is an order of magnitude less than in the southern Elbrus region. Total quantity: 400-600 mm per year, however, on the slopes of Elbrus itself the amount of precipitation is higher, although it does not reach the values ​​of the southern slope.

History of the region

The territory of the Elbrus region has been inhabited since ancient times. There are numerous archaeological sites testifying to this. The Scythians, Sarmatians and Alans, then the Sindians, Meotians, Zikhs, Kerkets and other peoples were the ancestors of the Adyghe tribes (Kabardians, Circassians, etc.), who for a long time dominated the lowland territories adjacent to Elbrus. The Balkar or Karachay-Balkar people were formed as a result of the mixing of North Caucasian and Alan tribes with the Bulgarians and Kipchaks who settled in the foothills of the Caucasus. For hundreds of years it has occupied a niche in the mountain valleys of the Central Caucasus. The Kabardino-Circassian language is part of the Abkhaz-Adyghe group of the Iberian-Caucasian family of languages. The Balkar language belongs to the Kipchak group of the Turkic family of languages.

At the beginning of the 13th century there were global changes, in connection with the invasion of the Mongol-Tatar conquerors, the ancestors of the Balkars, after a long struggle, retreated to the mountains. In subsequent periods, part of the Circassians received the name Kabardians and occupied the modern settlement territory. The Balkars in the mountain gorges were divided into 5 mountain societies that lived almost in isolation. The Baksan Gorge, which does not have natural protection in the form of narrowing mountain ranges, was without a permanent population for a long time. The ancestors of modern Balkars built permanent dwellings here only in the 18th century.

Russia's colonization of the Caucasus is a long process that intensified in the mid-18th century. The completion of the process of incorporating the Elbrus region into the Russian Empire can be dated back to 1827-1829, when the regular armed resistance of the Karachai communities ceased... The almost century-long period of tsarist rule took place differently in different regions of the Caucasus. The Elbrus region was one of the most stable. The local Balkar community was structured under the control of the Urusbiev princes, who more or less successfully controlled all aspects of life in the region. In the process of communicating with guests from abroad and later from Russia, the princes were imbued with the ideas of enlightenment and stood out favorably against the general, rather sad background of the Caucasian reality of those years...

After the revolutions of 1917, turbulent events took place in the region, power changed several times, and a lot of blood was shed. Only in March 1920 did the Red Army establish complete control over the territory of Kabarda, Balkaria and Karachay... In January 1921 Kabarda and Balkaria, as administrative districts, became part of the Mountain Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic. The political and administrative structure was finally enshrined in the 1936 Constitution of the USSR. During this period social structure society changed significantly, one way or another, the entire former elite of local peoples was eliminated. Including, little remains of the large Urusbiev family. The course towards industrialization and accelerated development of the country, the focus on new generations, in the mountainous regions found expression in the rapid development of tourism, in the emergence of roads, tourist centers, etc... Mountain peoples are more widely involved in the life of the country, education is becoming universal, radio and newspapers appear, people from Russia, Ukraine and other regions settle in the mountains...

During the war, closer to the truth...

In the summer of 1942, troops of the fascist coalition broke through the defenses of Soviet troops in the Rostov region. Events developed at lightning speed, ours retreated, the enemy invaded the North Caucasus. Soviet troops, by decision of Headquarters, hastily retreated to the borders of the Caucasus Mountains, Sunzhensky and Tersky ranges, offering only sporadic resistance. German and Italian troops (in their army there were also Romanian units, as well as formations of Cossacks and individual nationalities of the Caucasus) occupied city after city, village after village, approaching the mountainous regions. At this time, in Rostov, Captain Heinz Groth received an order from his superiors to climb to the top of Elbrus and hoist a fascist flag on it. It is generally accepted that this task was carried out by the elite units of the Edelweiss division. However, in reality, according to Grotto’s recollections, he hastily assembled a group of different parts located near the city. He himself had not been to the area before, and no one from his group had been to the Caucasus before, no one had even seen a map of Elbrus before... As for the “shooters from Edelweiss,” they arrived in the Caucasus later, actively participated in the hostilities, especially in its western part, where the Nazis made attempts to break into Transcaucasia. There were no active hostilities in Dombay and the Elbrus region at that time, but the Edelweiss men managed to remove wonderful videos for newsreels showing that these were real professionals.

Grot's group moved to the front line and was transferred to Karachay, where, out of nowhere, their own military formations arose, considering themselves representatives of an independent state. The Germans found with them common language and soon reached the Khotyu-Tau pass. At this time, a group of our military was at the Shelter of Eleven. By deception, Groth managed to convince them to vacate the premises, which they might not have been able to take by force. According to another, perhaps more accurate point of view, only meteorologists were at the Shelter, and the military at that moment went down to clarify the situation.

After resting for a day, Grot’s group set out to climb. The weather was not favorable, but the command was in a hurry, as there were rumors that the SS men wanted to climb up the northern slope first. It was not an easy walk, we had to go out more than once, at first we returned altogether due to bad weather, then the flags were not installed at the top. Moreover, on the descent one or two climbers died; they probably got lost in the fog and fell. However, the flags were installed on the twentieth of August 1942, and this was filmed. It is interesting that the newsreels included footage of the ascent in clear weather. Later it turned out that they were filmed by the leading mountain cameraman of those years, Hans Ertl, but... in the Austrian Alps!

It is well known what a fit of anger this news caused in Hitler. He burst into a prolonged hysteria about the fact that they came to the Caucasus not to engage in mountaineering, but to fight. Apparently, this was reported to the possessed dictator at the wrong time. Captain Grot, who carried out the order, received some kind of reward for climbing Elbrus and a vacation, during which he managed to replenish his family. By the way, he lived long life, died in 1994.

Subsequently, Soviet troops carried out several unsuccessful attacks on the Shelter, and quite a lot of soldiers died, mainly from our side. The battle on September 27, 1942 was especially stubborn. Later, the Nazis occupied Terskol and held it until the start of a general retreat associated with the events at Stalingrad. After the liberation of the area, a group of climbers Soviet army and volunteers from among the Svan militias climbed to the top of Elbrus and instead of the fascist banner they strengthened the Soviet flag. This happened on February 17, 1943, the names of the heroes are inscribed in the history of the region, the history of the country: A. Gusev, E. Beletsky. N. Gusak, Y. Odnoblyudov, A. Sidorenko, B. Grachev, G. Khergiani, B. Khergiani, V. Kukhtin, N. Morenets, A. Gryaznov, A. Bagrov, N. Persiyaninov, L. Karataeva, G. Sulakvelidze, A. Nemchinov, V. Lubenets, E. Smirnov, L. Kels and N. Petrosov...

Post-war period and present

In March 1944, the Balkars and Karachais were resettled to the regions of Central Asia and Kazakhstan. The deserted villages were partly inhabited by Circassians, Kabardians and Svans, and partly simply abandoned. In 1957, a decree was issued on the restoration of the national autonomy of the Balkar and Karachay peoples... At the same time, an extensive program began to transform the area into a zone for the development of mass tourism... Hotels and cable cars began to be built, an asphalt road was laid, and the infrastructure necessary for development was created. The pace of development of the region, especially in the early years, was very fast. The Elbrus region has become a fashionable and crowded resort. Although already in the 70s the pace of development decreased, clearly stagnant phenomena began to appear.

The Declaration of Sovereignty was adopted by the Supreme Council of the CBD on January 31, 1991. On July 1, 1994, the Russian Federation and the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic signed the Agreement “On the delimitation of jurisdiction and mutual delegation of powers between public authorities Russian Federation and government bodies of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic."

The changes in the country that occurred in the early 90s had an ambiguous impact on the development of the region. Significant objective difficulties have arisen associated with the destruction of old structures. The formation of a new image of the region has been delayed, despite the adopted development programs for the region. Along with the positive aspects, the development of market mechanisms still cannot ensure that the region reaches the levels of the 80s in terms of the number of tourists and climbers visiting the region. New hopes are associated with the establishment of stability in the region as a whole and with the activities of the new administration of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic under the leadership of the energetic and businesslike President Arsen Kanokov.

A very brief history of mountaineering on Elbrus

The first ascent of Elbrus was made from the north in 1829 by the conductor of the Russian military-scientific expedition, Kilar Khashirov. He, by order of the commander, General Emmanuel, and for the promised reward, climbed to the Eastern Peak.

In 1868, three Englishmen (Douglas Freshfield remained as the leader in history) and two Balkar guide-porters Akhiya Sottaev and Dyachi Dzhappuev ascended along a different route, from the south. In 1874, three Englishmen climbed the Western Summit with a Swiss guide, Peter Knubel. The first Russian climber and the first person to climb both peaks of Elbrus was the famous topographer, explorer of the Caucasus Andrei Vasilyevich Pastukhov, this was in 1890 and 1896...

For the whole pre-revolutionary period 29 man-ascents were made.

During Soviet times, Elbrus became the object of mass ascents. Statistics give the following data: 1929 - 36 ascents, 1930 - 48, 1931 - 87, 1933 - 386, 1935 - 2016! In the thirties, the tradition of mass alpiniads arose, in which hundreds of climbers took part. For a long time, the starting point for climbing was the famous “Shelter of the Eleven,” built before the war. In 1998 it burned down, but this did not stop the flow of climbers. Every year thousands of climbers climb to the top, although exactly how many are unknown; unfortunately, there is no uniform statistics. It should be noted that a significant part are foreign climbers, who are attracted precisely by the status of the peak as the highest point in Europe. Elbrus is included in the prestigious list of “seven highest peaks of seven continents” for conquest.

In 1914, Swiss climbers Egger and Miescher climbed Elbrus on skis. However, it cannot be said definitely that this was the first descent, since the technology of those years did not allow them to fully descend. So the Italian communist Leopoldo Gasparotto (1929) or even the Muscovite Vadim Gippenreiter (1939) may have more rights to the first descent.

Serious development of skiing in the Elbrus region began in the late fifties, when construction of cable cars and hotels began in the region. By the mid-60s, competitions and training camps were held here, and camp sites and hotels operated. Also for a long time in Terskol there was a sports school that trained many good athletes. In the mid-70s, the construction of cable cars to Elbrus and Cheget was declared completed. I would like to give a kind word to the pioneers of the development of the slopes of the region: Yuri Mikhailovich Anisimov and Alexey Alexandrovich Maleinov.

A new development plan has now begun to be implemented ski resort Elbrus region. The plan is grandiose and we are even afraid to talk about it out loud so as not to scare it away.

Climbing routes to Elbrus

According to the mountaineering classification Elbrus, the classic route is rated as 2A snow and ice, the passage of both peaks is 2B. There are other, more difficult routes, for example Elbrus (W) along the NW edge 3A. There is also a grandiose Kyukurtlyu wall, made of volcanic rocks; it is a continuation of the western shoulder of Elbrus. On this wall there are routes of the highest category - up to 6b.

The standard climb to Elbrus begins from the Azau clearing at an altitude of 2200 meters. Usually climb to cable car(two lines) and then on the chairlift to Garabashi station (3800 m), where the “Bochki” shelter is located. IN recent years the activity of development of the Elbrus region has increased greatly and there is every reason to expect that in coming years The structure of lifts and shelters will undergo significant changes.

The classic climbing route goes from Shelter 11, between two characteristic rock ridges, through the Pastukhov Rocks, then traverse to the saddle and further to the peaks of Elbrus. The ascent will require a moderately trained climber 7-8 hours, the descent - 3-4 hours. summer time There is a clearly visible trail all the way. You should wear crampons! In summer, ice outcrops are rare, but there are areas of hard firn. At other times, this path may have long sections pure ice, from the end of the “ridges” to the beginning of the traverse. In this case, the route is accessible only to trained athletes. The long descent (3.5 km with a steepness of about 30°) is especially dangerous.

Then the path goes up, slightly to the left (you can’t go far to the left, so as not to end up among the cracks) and is marked with markers. The steepness in some areas reaches 30°. About a kilometer from the saddle, the trail smoothly turns to the left, going around the rocky outcrops of the foot of the Eastern Peak from below. In this area, you can sometimes smell sulfur dioxide coming from the fumaroles on the southern slope. The steepness of the slope on the inclined traverse is 15°, in some places up to 25°. Further, the trail comes out to a saddle, which is a huge sloping snow field with outcrops of stones, blown by north-west winds. If there is no wind, it can be quite warm here around 10 am. Climbers almost always take a break here before the decisive effort. Many decide wisely to abort the climb. When you reach the saddle, on the left along the way there are the remains of a destroyed hut; not far from it there are some glacial cavities where you can hide from the hurricane wind or even spend the night if necessary. The new hut, made according to the original design, took several years to build and was put into operation at the end of the summer of 2010. However, it did not last long; already in October the hut was destroyed by the wind.

Nowadays people rarely go to the Eastern peak from the saddle. There are several options for climbing through snow and scree; it takes 1.5-2 hours from the Saddle. The ascent to the Western Peak is along a steep snow-ice slope to the lower border of the rocky ridge (crampons are required). In this area, breakdowns periodically occur, with unpleasant, including tragic, consequences. You have to be very careful in positioning your feet. The steep section ends with access to the summit plateau. In the distance you can see the Western Peak, which rises ten meters above the almost flat area. At the very top, as if there was a specially placed summit stone, hung with souvenirs and memorial signs. It’s good that there is a characteristic place where you can take a photograph that clearly confirms the fact of the ascent. The usual time to climb from the saddle is 2 hours.

Climbing Elbrus gives you the opportunity to see the unique panorama of the Caucasus from above. The peaks, which seem huge from Shelter 11, gradually go down and are leveled into a continuous sea of ​​peaks and ridges. Dawn leaves a special impression when, in the rays of the rising sun in the west, a huge shadow from Elbrus rises above the horizon. Shadows from other peaks merge into a continuous purple stripe - the border between day and night.

Route from the west

In summer, thousands of climbers climb Elbrus from the Baksan valley. It’s great when there are so many like-minded people around, you meet old friends and meet new ones. But not everyone and not always is happy about it. This does not benefit direct communication with mountain nature. But very close, beyond the pass, there are routes on which you may not meet a single person. Our groups, following to the summit of Elbrus from the west, can feel the spirit of pioneers, without finding a single trace of their predecessors on their way. The route from the west starts from mineral springs, bearing the name Karachay Dzhilisu. Further the path passes through a rarely visited gorge. In the lower part the route is ambiguous and presents a certain technical difficulty. Therefore, we recommend that you go out only with an experienced, knowledgeable guide. But above 4000 meters, above the assault camp, the path to the top goes straight, with a smooth climb and is a real pleasure. Although we should not forget that weather conditions on Elbrus can change dramatically.

Route from the north

In addition to the route from the south, which is followed by the vast majority of climbers, there is a northern route, where small shelters have also been built.

The first ascent of Elbrus was made in 1829. It has been described many times in historical and mountaineering literature. Reread it, and you will certainly want to follow the path of General Emmanuel and guide Killar Khashirov. It is not difficult to organize, it is better with the help of our company. The route itself leaves quite a different impression from the standard route. There are few places in the world where everyone gets feelings similar to those expressed by Sergei Kirov with the words “What space!” Indeed, in the absence of nearby mountains comparable in height, Elbrus seems unusually gigantic. Great mountain!

Currently, there are two shelters on the northern slopes, two starting points for the assault. Although they are located somewhat low, at about 3800 meters. However, it is still better to use your own camps, with your own tents and services. And set up camps away from the established trail, and away from the shelters.

The route is a fairly smooth climb, passing along the rocks named after the participant of the first ascent, Academician Lenz. Before reaching them, you have to walk along the glacier, where new cracks may suddenly appear. To prevent the condition of the slope from bringing unpleasant surprises, go out on the route with a guide.

One caveat - as a rule, climbers from the north are limited to climbing to the nearest, Eastern peak of Elbrus. The path to Western is simply very long, and yet you still need to return. That's why the best option we count the ascent from the north to the East Summit, the traverse to the West Summit and the descent to the south. After semi-expedition wanderings, you will go straight down to habitable places with hotels, showers and restaurants.

Ascent speed

In September 2006, the famous Kazakh climber Denis Urubko ran to its western peak from the Azau clearing in less than 4 hours. In 2010, 22-year-old Pole Andrzej Bartel significantly improved the record, showing a time of 3 hours 23 minutes 37 seconds. Whoever can, let him improve this time. In 2009, the winner of the race was the leading guide of the Alpindustria company, Sergey Fursov, his time was 4 hours 19 minutes... But these figures should not relax climbers who are going to the summit for the first time. For ordinary person It’s better not to rush and plan acclimatization and the ascent itself very seriously.

Dangers of Elbrus

Elbrus is one of the most visited mountains in the world and, alas, one of the deadliest. Not to say bloody, because the vast majority of those killed freeze to death. People die when caught in sudden bad weather or lost their way in the fog. They often fall into cracks, which are full of them away from the main routes.

Elbrus is cunning and does not tolerate being treated lightly.

You should always remember the sad statistics

From an interview with Boris Osmanovich Tilov, head of the rescue service of the Elbrus region, taken by Alexey Trubachev.

Alexey Trubachev. How many people, on average, die on Elbrus every year?

Boris Tilov. I can say that, on average, from 15 to 20 people die on Elbrus per year. This accounts for about 80% of the total statistics for the region. The reason, in my opinion, is that Elbrus, unlike difficult mountaineering routes, is visited by people who are disorganized, poorly equipped, and sometimes do not even bother to register and get advice from the rescue service. We can say that 95% of accidents occur with so-called “wild” tourists who do not have sufficient qualifications or itinerary documents. Even if such people are not here in the mountains for the first time, with their self-confidence they put themselves and those around them at great risk.

A.T. Boris Osmanovich, and yet, what in your opinion is the most common, main cause of accidents on Elbrus?

B.T. Firstly, the most important thing is the attitude of climbers towards Elbrus. In appearance, Elbrus is a very simple mountain. And many are mistaken in believing that this is so. They start the climb late, walk, losing their last strength, to the very top, and on the descent they find themselves either in bad weather or in darkness. The result is the same - they go astray and die in the cracks. Or they freeze. Another reason is a sudden change in weather. Weather conditions on Elbrus can change in just half an hour. It is very difficult to navigate in the absence of visibility, and it is very easy to lose your way. The result is the same - cracks... Thousands of cracks more than a hundred meters deep... It is very easy to fall into them, and it is almost impossible to find the victim.

There was a case when climbers, descending to the south, went far to the north, towards Pyatigorsk. They were found 15 kilometers from Elbrus. At the same time, the group leader climbed Elbrus 40 times... This shows how difficult it is to navigate Elbrus in bad weather. Even an experienced guide can get lost, what can we say about people who encountered this mountain for the first time... Due to bad weather, Tenzing, the first climber of Everest, refused to climb Elbrus. This fact speaks for itself...

The next reason is insufficient acclimatization. Many people overestimate their strength and are in a hurry to ascend. And sometimes they even rise. But there is no strength left to descend, the weather is deteriorating and it is getting dark. The probability that a person will survive until the next morning if he has not reached the base is very small...

After the publication of this interview, in May 2006, a group of climbers consisting of 12 people attempted to climb Elbrus. As a result of bad weather and loss of visibility, the participants got lost and then froze while trying to camp for the night in the Saddle area. Of the entire group, only one person returned down.

Statistics of the 7 peaks (the highest peaks of the continents) and their absence

In total, the list of Aconcagua victims includes 126 people. On Everest - 211 dead. On Elbrus, there are no official statistics, but there are clearly more of them than on Aconcagua and, perhaps, less than on Everest. There are no statistics on Kilimanjaro either; the numbers should be close to Aconcagua, if you don’t count (and no one does) the local porters working in terrible conditions. There have been fewer deaths on McKinley, with the 100th death recorded last year.

Weather conditions and the condition of the route are the two main problems that worry experienced Elbrus climbers. Climbing in bad weather or when poor prognosis It's better not to start. The main number of deaths on the slopes of the mountain are those who simply lost the right path in conditions of lack of visibility.

The presence or absence of areas of “bare” ice on the route determines its technical complexity. In good conditions, sometimes you can even get by without cats. But when a belt of “bottle” ice appears in winter, or more often in spring, even outstanding ice climbers get excited. Organizing insurance over a long section seems like too much time. Therefore, they walk very, very carefully, but without insurance. One wrong move and... Fly to the end of the slope. Fortunately, there is almost never ice in the summer.

If you are lucky in these two positions, then climbing Elbrus may not be difficult for you at all. But no matter how lucky you are, you will certainly encounter one problem. This is your body's reaction to changes in external conditions. To altitude, to solar radiation, to cold, to other unfavorable factors. For most climbers, this becomes a test of their altitude tolerance.

For a long time, scientists and climbers have encountered in the mountains the phenomenon of decreased performance of the body. Scientifically speaking, there is a sharp increase or rather a breakdown in the cardiovascular activity, respiratory, digestive and nervous systems, especially in the first days of staying at altitude. In many cases, this led to the development of acute mountain sickness, when there was a direct threat to human life. At the same time, the higher the climbers climbed into the mountains, the more unfavorable symptoms appeared. At the same time, the local residents who accompanied the climbers reacted much more calmly to changes in climatic factors. On the one hand, this indicated the individual nature of the reaction to height. On the other hand, it led to conclusions about the possibility of adaptation to unfavorable factors.

Practice has led to conclusions about the need for preliminary acclimatization, carried out in a certain sequence. It usually involves a gradual climb and descent at night to lower altitudes.

At the same time, the results of acclimatization, carried out year after year, can be “remembered” by the body until a state called “permanent acclimatization” is reached, when experienced climbers do not feel the effect of altitude on their body, at least at the heights of Elbrus.

As usual, there is a theory and there is a practice of acclimatization. Theoretically, we recommend climbing Elbrus after at least 7-10 days of active walking at lower altitudes. But in practice, people often go climbing 4-5 days after arriving in the mountains. What to do, our behavior is determined social conditions. A constant lack of time is a cost of the modern lifestyle.

Here's what science says about the adverse factors of high altitudes

1. Temperature. With increasing altitude, the average annual air temperature gradually decreases by 0.5 °C for every 100 m, and in different seasons of the year and in different geographical areas it decreases differently: in winter it is slower than in summer, amounting to 0.4 °C and 0, respectively. 6°C. In the Caucasus, the average decrease in temperature in summer is 6.3-6.8° per 1 vertical kilometer, but in practice it can be up to 10°C.

2. Air humidity. Humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air. Since the pressure of saturated water vapor is determined only by air temperature, in mountainous areas where the temperature is low, the partial pressure of water vapor is also low. Already at an altitude of 2000 m, air humidity is half that at sea level, and at high mountain altitudes the air becomes almost “dry”. This circumstance increases the loss of fluid by the body not only through evaporation from the surface of the skin, but also through the lungs during hyperventilation. Hence the importance of ensuring an adequate drinking regime in the mountains, because... Dehydration of the body reduces performance.

3. Solar radiation. At mountain heights, the intensity of the radiant energy of the sun increases greatly due to the great dryness and transparency of the atmosphere and its lower density. When rising to an altitude of 3000 m, the total solar radiation increases on average by 10% for every 1000 m. The greatest changes are found in ultraviolet radiation: its intensity increases by an average of 3-4% for every 100 m of increase in altitude. The body is affected by both visible (light) and invisible (infrared and the most biologically active ultraviolet) sun rays. In moderate doses it can be beneficial to the body. However, excessive exposure sun rays may cause burns, sunstroke, cardiovascular and nervous disorders, exacerbation of chronic inflammatory processes. As you gain altitude, the increased biological effectiveness of ultraviolet radiation can cause skin erythema and keratitis (inflammation of the cornea of ​​the eyes). Creams, masks, glasses are mandatory things for climbers on Elbrus. Although there are people who can easily do without it. Their skin is of a different type.

4. Atmospheric pressure. As altitude increases, atmospheric pressure drops, while the concentration of oxygen, as well as the percentage of other gases within the atmosphere, remain constant. Compared to sea level, atmospheric pressure at an altitude of 3000 m is lower by 31% and at an altitude of 4000 m - by 39%, and at the same altitudes it increases from high to low latitudes and in the warm period it is usually higher than in the cold .

A drop in atmospheric pressure is closely related to the main cause of altitude sickness, lack of oxygen. In scientific language this is called a decrease in the partial pressure of oxygen. The experimental results show that at an altitude of 3000 m the amount of O2 in the inhaled air decreases by one third and at an altitude of 4000 m by half. All this leads to undersaturation of hemoglobin with oxygen, an insufficient amount of it enters the tissues and a phenomenon called hypoxia develops. This is actually the body’s reaction to this phenomenon.