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How to choose the right saw blade. Features of longitudinal and transverse sawing of wood

Suppose we need to adjust a wooden plinth or trim the garden. It would seem that we take a hacksaw and saw. What kind of hacksaw do we use for wood? No, the question is not an idle one at all. To be convinced of this, just go to any construction supermarket or online store that sells tools. Dozens of models are presented to our attention. And their differences are not only in logos and prices.

It seems like a simple tool, but no, if you make the wrong choice best case scenario We will not get the expected pleasure from work. At worst - as the author of the comment on the forum: “It seemed to me that the saws were sold ready for use, i.e. already sharpened and divorced.” So how to choose a hacksaw for wood? What should you pay attention to: brand, length or price? We will try to answer this question in this article.

Main Features

The canvas is of primary importance in this tool. From steel grade, correct procedure hardening and successful sharpening will determine the ease of use of the product and its service life. The choice of a hacksaw for wood is based on four basic characteristics:

  • blade length;
  • tooth size;
  • steel type;
  • handle type.

The first criterion is the length of the canvas. It depends on the needs of the buyer, for small bars, boards, etc. A 280 - 300 mm hacksaw is quite sufficient. For construction or summer cottages, a sheet of 450 - 500 mm is more appropriate. There is more. When selecting a model, you must clearly know what size wood you are going to cut. The rule is this: the length of the hacksaw should be twice the length of the largest workpiece for which it is intended. You can do less, but ease of use will be lost. This is due to several reasons:

  • This ratio allows all the hacksaw teeth to completely come out of the log during cutting, and this effective removal sawdust (will not clog);
  • It’s easier on the hands; with more sweeping movements the hand doesn’t get so tired.

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The size of the teeth and their sharpening. The accuracy of the cut and its speed will depend on this characteristic. The pattern is this: a small tooth means a clean and precise cut, but less speed; larger - a rough cut at much higher speed and less fatigue. This characteristic on hacksaws is referred to as “TPI,” which stands for the number of teeth per inch (almost 30 mm). The higher the TPI value, the more “delicate” the cut will be. For example, for working with chipboard and fiberboard, this value should be at least 7 - 9. The cut surface will be smoother without a “ragged” edge.

For garden work, cleanliness of the cut is not so critical, especially for trimming or sawing logs. More important characteristic during such work, the speed of sawing and the effort to be expended are important. For this we need a hacksaw with a TPI value of 3-6, the distance between the teeth is from 4 to 8 mm.

The classic tooth shape is a triangle. As a rule, such saws are of the sharpened type. Last generation hacksaws with hardened teeth have a trapezoidal shape. They are initially designed with increased strength and wear resistance. When it gets dull, we go buy a new hacksaw or change the blade. No matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to sharpen it: repeating the sharpening angles is extremely difficult, and such steel cannot be filed. Provided that the production technology is followed.

Steel type. The standard metal hardness for a wood hacksaw is 45 HRC. Steel with a hardness of 55 - 60 HRC is used for the teeth. This type of hacksaw combines the flexibility of the blade with high resistance to tooth wear. They are easily recognized by their characteristic appearance- the teeth have a darker shade than the rest of the surface of the blade. These hacksaws are of the non-sharpenable type. If the teeth are not hardened, they can be straightened and sharpened.

Lever. The number of calluses on your hands depends on its ergonomics. There are two handle options: reversible or classic. The first option allows you to change blades, for example, in the Bahco Superior EX-19-XT9-C wood hacksaw model.

How to choose?

First of all, it is necessary to determine what type of tool is needed: carpentry or carpentry. Joiner's cut has a more precise and clean cut and is used primarily for dry wood. The cutting speed for this type of tool is not the main characteristic.

When choosing a length, focus on your needs, i.e. what size timber or log are you going to cut? If the tool will not be used frequently, e.g. summer cottage, choose with hardened teeth. The service life of such a saw is long. In addition, properly sharpening and setting teeth is its own science, and mastering it for seasonal work in the garden may not be advisable.

The quality of the canvas can be checked upon purchase. To do this, take a hacksaw and see how smooth the canvas is. Next, bend the canvas until you feel resistance and release. The bending force should be slight, do not break it. After this, look at the evenness of the blade at the bend; if the deviation is more than 2 mm, the steel is not of very high quality.

The teeth of a hacksaw have a dual role:

  • cut wood;
  • remove sawdust.

The smaller the number of teeth per inch, the faster the cutting speed and the less clogging with sawdust. Hacksaws with up to 7 teeth provide high productivity with little user effort. True, accuracy will suffer from this. But even here it is necessary to look for a middle ground, because The greater the distance between the teeth, the smaller the cutting surface. Accordingly, productivity will decrease. The best option would be the following rule: the minimum thickness of the bar should be greater than the pitch of three teeth. Otherwise it will be torment, not cutting.

Hacksaws can be used with longitudinal and transverse cutting methods. Longitudinal blades can be easily recognized by the angle of the teeth; such saws cut only from themselves. Usually their length does not exceed 50 cm, they have an acute cutting angle - 75 - 800. Most of the models presented in stores can be classified as cross-cut hacksaws. They have sharpening on both sides of the tooth. This allows you to cut both forward and backward.

One of the determining criteria for choosing a hacksaw for wood is price. As with everything else, quality products from leading brands will cost more than Chinese brands. This overpayment, in fact, guarantees the durability and wear resistance of such a tool. And with hardened teeth, this is very important; the overall service life of such a tool will depend on it. It cannot be sharpened. Leading manufacturers exercise more stringent control when choosing steel grades and hardening technology. And as we discussed above, even the shape and pitch of the teeth of such a tool will influence a lot. Starting from convenience and effort expended, ending with the accuracy and evenness of the cut.

Models you should definitely take a closer look at

The models below deserve very good reviews both according to the results of specialized tests of the tool, and according to the opinions of the users themselves. For convenience, all models will be in ascending order price category, from budget to professional wood hacksaws.

Wood saw Bison Expert, has a very comfortable plastic handle. Hardened teeth triangular shape with two cutting edges. Suitable for both longitudinal and cross cuts. The length of the blade, as well as the number of teeth per inch, is selected by the user independently; there are different variations of this model. It cuts any type of wood well. This tool is suitable for carpentry work because... controllability and cutting accuracy are excellent. For the garden, you can choose a model with a lower TPI value. Cost from 12 to 15 USD.

Wood hacksaw Gross Piranha also available in several versions. Canvases Available different lengths(from 400 to 550 mm) and different amounts teeth The saw is made of hard steel 52 HRc, teeth, hardened 66 HRc with triangular laser sharpening. It cuts smoothly and cleanly. The Piranha wood hacksaw has a Teflon coating, which significantly improves the glide of the blade and allows you to obtain clean cut edges. The cost of this tool is 12 - 15 USD.

Stanley General Purpose wood hacksaw. This instrument is produced by a French company, has good quality and not at a high price(about 12 USD). Designed for both longitudinal and cross cutting. Length 500 mm with TPI 8. Hardened teeth. The cut is easy, without additional effort. An excellent purchase for a summer cottage.

Irwin Xpert hacksaw. A very good tool for a reasonable price, from 20 USD. The cut was easy, the cut was even and smooth. When sawing hardwood, the force on your hand does not increase significantly. Good ergonomics of the handle. Length 500 mm, teeth, hardened with proprietary geometry, TPI 8.

Sandvik wood saws(in the past), and now it is a well-known instrument under the Bahco brand. Bahco saws with proprietary XT geometry have practically no equal; this is already a category of professional tools. The Bahco ProfCut PC-19-File-U7 model is noteworthy. This is one of the few saws that can be sharpened. Convenient, 475 mm long hacksaw. Sawing smoothly and easily. Cost from 20 USD

By the way, you can get Bahco quality and save money by purchasing a hacksaw under the “Tescha” brand. This instrument comes to Russia from two countries. If you purchase one marked “made in Sweden”, you will have in your hands a tool from the Bahco factory, with its level of quality.

Classification of types of sawing

Characteristics of the sawing process

Sawing is the process of dividing wood with a saw into volumetric, undeformed parts by turning the volume of wood between these parts into chips.

A saw is a multi-blade cutting tool that works in a closed cut. A kerf is a gap formed in wood when teeth cut narrow shavings (sawdust). At the cut they distinguish side walls and the bottom with which the blades (teeth) interact.

Sawing wood is classified according to several criteria.

Depending on the position of the saw plane in relation to the wood fibers, longitudinal, transverse and mixed sawing is distinguished.

For longitudinal sawing The plane of the saw is parallel or approximately parallel to the grain of the wood. Saw frames, circular saws and band saws operate on the principle of longitudinal sawing, on which logs and beams are sawed into boards, lumber is cut to width or thickness in the longitudinal direction.

When cross cutting the plane of the saw is perpendicular or approximately perpendicular to the grain of the wood. Sawing is done by hand cross saws, hacksaws or cross-cutting machines used for cutting logs into round logs, removing wood defects and wane areas from the ends of lumber, as well as giving lumber a given length and quality.

For mixed sawing the saw plane is located under acute angle(10˚…80˚) to the direction of the fibers.

Depending on the type of saws used, the following types of sawing are distinguished:

– longitudinal frame sawing, sawing with band, circular and jigsaws;

– cross-cutting with circular, chain and jigsaws;

– mixed sawing with circular, band and jigsaws.

Depending on the number of simultaneously working saws in the machine, a distinction is made between individual and group cutting methods. Cutting logs and lumber with one saw is called individual cutting, and cutting with several saws is called group cutting.

For individual sawing logs are sawn into lumber with separate cuts on circular saws, band saws, vertical or horizontal machines. The cutting is carried out taking into account individual characteristics quality zones of each log. This cutting method is effective when sawing valuable wood, cutting large-diameter logs and logs with significant defects.

For group sawing sawmill frames, multi-saw circular saws and band saws, as well as milling and sawing machines are used.

Depending on the position of the workpiece relative to the center of the circular saw, sawing is distinguished by the peripheral zone of the saw, the middle zone and central zone saws, as well as sawing with the upper and lower zones of the saw.


When working in the peripheral zone saws, the teeth of the saw protrude above the surface of the workpiece by an amount approximately equal to the height of the tooth.

When working in the middle zone saw teeth protrude above the surface of the workpiece by an amount equal to approximately one third of the radius of the saw.

When working in the central zone The center of the saw is located at the middle of the cutting height. This type of sawing is used in milling and sawing machines.

The peripheral and middle working areas of the saw can be located on the top or lower areas saws, which is observed in circular saws with a lower and upper saw shaft.

At divorce (Fig. 2, A) the tips of the teeth with a length of 0.3...0.5 of the tooth height are bent alternately in different sides. At flattening (Fig. 2, b) the tips of the teeth are flattened and shaped, giving them the shape of blades located symmetrically relative to the saw body.

The sawing rule can be formulated as follows: when inserting a tooth into wood, you first need to cut the fibers, and then, with the least resistance, separate them from the massif and remove the chips from the cut.

Wood saws differ in the size of the cutting teeth. This indicator determines what the cut will be, what types of wood the hacksaw is suitable for and how convenient it will be to work with it. But, besides this, there are other indicators that you need to pay attention to when choosing a tool. Therefore, the question of how to choose the right hacksaw for wood requires careful study.

Technical characteristics of a hacksaw for wood

For a wood saw, the main importance is:

  • canvas width;
  • blade length;
  • tooth size;
  • handle;
  • blade steel grade.

The length of the blade affects the width of the cut workpiece, and also greatly facilitates the work. The long stroke makes it possible to apply less effort, because in one movement the cut is made a large number teeth Moreover, the longer the canvas, the stronger it will spring. When working with hardwoods such as ash, maple or oak, a hacksaw will cause a lot of inconvenience and will quickly become dull.

From a practical point of view, short hacksaws, with a cutting blade length of up to 35 cm, best used for one-time small work. They are great for those who live in an apartment because they don't take up much space. So, in a private household, it is advisable to immediately choose a long hacksaw (50–55 cm). This will make it possible to work with workpieces, as well as cut trees.

As a rule, the width of the blade is 10–20 cm. Narrower blades are not allowed due to technical reasons (they break even with a slight bend), wider ones are quite inconvenient to work by hand. When choosing a saw for wood, you must remember that thin workpieces are easier to saw with a narrower blade, and, conversely, thick ones (roof joists, tree trunk, etc.) - wide.

Regular pens are made of plastic. It is best to choose a handle with a rubberized backing. This will protect your hand from calluses and make it possible to make a tighter grip.

The saw tooth is the most main part tool, so we will dwell on this point in more detail.

Purpose and types of teeth

The following types of teeth are distinguished in wood hacksaws:

  • for universal cutting;
  • for cross cutting;
  • for longitudinal cutting.

Longitudinal cut most often done either with a jigsaw or circular saw. But there are also hand saws for these purposes. As with power tools, the tooth on a hacksaw looks like a hook. The angle between the teeth can be 45–60 degrees.

Hook shape makes it possible to cut in only one direction. It is best to cut along the grain. In this case, the saw easily penetrates the wood and the cut comes out most accurate and even. The purchase of this hacksaw is appropriate only for those people who want to make furniture with their own hands. Because it is not suitable for any other purposes.

Cross cut tooth most popular. Externally it looks like an isosceles triangle. The tooth angle is 45–55 degrees. This design makes it possible to cut well both while the blade moves forward and in the opposite direction. As a result, cross cutting occurs effortlessly, quickly and as accurately as possible. When choosing a hacksaw, you must take into account that this type of tooth is only suitable for dry workpieces. The saw will tear fresh wood, and the sharpening will deteriorate.

For fresh wood use triangular teeth with parallel sharpening. This means that the teeth are ground in a checkerboard pattern and only on one side. As a result, a free channel appears between the teeth inside the cut, through which wet sawdust can freely exit without complicating the advancement of the blade.

The next option is combined teeth. Here the triangular ones intersect with the semicircular ones. Moreover, a semicircular tooth is larger than a triangular one. As the blade moves forward, long and narrow teeth make a guide cut, and when the blade returns to its original position, the triangular tooth enlarges the cut channel and removes shavings and sawdust. We must not forget that the smaller the angle between the triangular and semicircular teeth, the more accurate the cut will be.

Saws for universal cutting It is advisable not to choose; as a rule, they have a different set of teeth, which theoretically should perform any job equally well. But in practice, these hacksaws become dull much faster, and their sharpening is usually more expensive than a new saw.

And what is most important is that in any high-quality saw, the teeth must be made of hardened steel.

Types of hacksaws for wood

There are several types of saws, including:

  • regular;
  • narrow;
  • onion;
  • with a butt.

The most cheap saw woodworking is narrow hand saw. This tool is suitable for cutting branches when working in the garden and small work with workpieces. As a rule, either double-sided triangular teeth or parallel sharpening are used.

You need to understand that This hacksaw can only be used with workpieces no more than 7-12 cm thick. A very short blade does not make it possible to create leverage; accordingly, cutting thick parts requires a large load.

Conventional saws can be with any type of teeth. The choice will depend only on what tasks you plan to purchase the tool for. You only need to pay attention to the fact that it is not advisable to use these saws during furniture production. Or you need to buy special large miter boxes so that you can cut at a certain angle.

Back saws used as an auxiliary tool. Their main task– small cuts in the part.

Bow saws- This is an analogue of an electric jigsaw. They make it possible to make the most accurate cut and work with different workpieces at different angles. There are:

  • transverse;
  • sweeping;
  • thorny;
  • rounded.

Swinging hacksaws make it possible to perform longitudinal cutting. Today there are canvases 40-80 cm long. Longer pieces can only be cut using a power tool.

Cross saws used for cutting workpieces across the grain. They can make cuts at right angles and at any other angle. Moreover, perfectly smooth edges emerge at the incision site.

Circular hacksaws narrower ones, used for figured cutting. They are used to make curves and other complex elements. Feature– use of very flexible steel grades.

Tenon hacksaws make it possible to create simple geometric shapes on a workpiece.

The difference between bow saws is that the fastening mechanism is purchased once, and you do not spend money on saws directly, purchasing new blades.

Manufacturers of wood saws

Professional saws distinguished by good quality and compliance with the specified characteristics. By purchasing tools from trusted manufacturers, you will be confident that this product will serve you reliably and for a long time. Among the trusted manufacturers it is necessary to highlight:

Bahco is a Swedish company that is part of the SNA Europe corporation. For more than 200 years of history, the company has never changed its basic concept - the production of high-quality and affordable hand tools. Bahco saws are characterized by durability and reasonable price.

You can also find Sandvik saws on the market. This company is part of Bahco, so the quality of the product is general requirements companies.

American saw manufacturer Stanley, also focuses on the accessibility of its products. The company is distinguished by a large staff of engineers and designers. Thanks to their developments, the cutting edge and blade of hacksaws differ from domestic GOST, but this does not affect the quality at all. This company is great for those who choose a hacksaw for the dacha. Because the combined large teeth make it possible to produce any type of cut.

German company Gross younger than other companies. It achieves the competitiveness of its product due to its very low cost. However, the products are of quite high quality and meet all standards. The only drawback is that the choice of products is very small.

There are also domestic manufacturers offering high-quality and relatively inexpensive saws. Among which:

  • Piranha;
  • Bison

Saws Bison Manufactured in China, however, they meet the requirements for teeth and steel. Disadvantages:

  • cannot be used for working with hard wood;
  • continuous work time is no more than 10 minutes (then a pause of 15 minutes);
  • Do not leave it outside (it will quickly rust, even with low humidity).

Despite this, the characteristics of the hacksaw are suitable for pruning trees.

The Piranha company is relatively small and has been operating relatively recently. Like everything new, its products are quite affordable and of good quality. Saws Piranha are presented in only a few options. Large country The manufacturer of this product is China. But the products of this company are coated with Teflon, which protects the hacksaw from corrosion, even if you forget it on the street.

About safety and comfort

When choosing a hacksaw for wood, pay attention to the handle. The most convenient is a two-component handle with rubberized insert. It provides a strong grip, does not allow the palm to slip and does not rub the hand.

For working with workpieces of various sizes and performing different types cuts a set of replacement blades is far from superfluous. Often saws are equipped with equipment with different cutting edges and different shapes- for cutting down branches, making transverse and straight cuts, etc. It is also quite convenient when the hacksaw is equipped with a case for carrying and storage, or at least a plastic plug that covers sharp edges, eliminating injury and damage to the surface of the blade.

A home craftsman will always have a functional and easy-to-use circular saw in his arsenal. But there are situations when you need to saw off a part and perform a small amount of woodwork, but there is no time or desire to deploy and connect the unit. In these cases, a hand saw is a great help. But let’s take a closer look at how to choose a hand hacksaw for wood so that it is easy to use and can easily “gnaw through” any type of wood.

The saw is rightfully considered the ancestor of a large family of hand tools. Since the creation of the first type of tool from iron, the saw has undergone many changes, having acquired numerous “sisters” capable of performing dozens of jobs.

IN household It’s impossible to do without “toothed helpers”: they are indispensable for garden pruning, small carpentry and joinery work

Hand saws for wood differ in many ways: blade size, steel grade, tooth shape, handle design. Let's look at each parameter in more detail.

How should a hacksaw blade be?

The main part of the tool is the hacksaw blade. The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a product is the length of the canvas. The possibilities of its application largely depend on this parameter. At the same time, the longer the blade, the more springy it is, which also complicates the process, especially when working with hard wood such as ash, maple or oak.

A long stroke makes it possible to use less effort when sawing, since the cut is performed by a large number of teeth in one stroke

To cut small elements such as plinths, bars or narrow slats, you can get by with a hacksaw with a blade length of 25-30 cm. Planning to use the tool when performing more serious construction work, choose a product with a canvas of 45-50 cm.

When determining the length of the hacksaw blade, follow the rule that the length of the saw exceeds the diameter of the elements being processed by 2 times. Failure to follow this recommendation will only make your job more difficult. The teeth of a short hacksaw will jam inside the wood, and everyone will have to make a lot of effort to move the tool to free it from sawdust. Uncomfortable work will cause premature fatigue.

Traditionally, the width of the product blade varies in the range of 10-20 cm. Models with a narrower blade are not allowed for technical reasons, as they fail at the slightest bend. But it is worth considering that too wide canvases are inconvenient for manual work.

The material used to make the blade, which is most often alloy steel, as well as its degree of hardening also play an important role.

For hacksaws, tool alloy steel with high content silicon and carbon grades:

  • 65G, 60 C2A;
  • 8 HF, 9 HF, 9 HS;
  • U7, U7A, U8, U8A, U8G, U8GA, U9A, U10

Hardening of metal is carried out due to the influence of variable magnetic field, at which it appears electric current high frequency. Spreading over the surface, it heats the surface layer of the metal, which is hardened after cooling.

The standard parameter is considered to be a metal hardness of 45 HRC, but it is still preferable to choose products whose blade hardness is 55-60 HRC. A hacksaw with a blade of high hardness will have sufficient flexibility, but at the same time high stability of the teeth. Upon external inspection, such a tool can be identified by the darkish tint of the sharpened teeth.

Parameters of teeth on the blade

The determining indicator of the tool’s performance and the accuracy of cutting wood is the size of the teeth.

The teeth of a hacksaw for woodworking perform a dual function: they cut the wood and, at the same time, remove sawdust

Sawing accuracy is determined by the “TPI” indicator - the number of teeth per inch.

Between these technical parameters there is an inverse relationship:

  • blades with large teeth set a high speed of work, but the cut turns out to be rough and sloppy;
  • hacksaws with fine teeth guarantee a clean and precise cut, but at a relatively low speed.

When determining the required tooth size, you should focus on the type of material being processed. For example, for working with chipboard, where high cutting precision is required, choose a tool with a high TPI of 7-9, and for sawing logs and garden work, where the cleanliness of the cut is not so important, choose a TPI of 3-6.

When choosing optimal option hacksaws, follow the rule that the minimum thickness of the log should in any case be greater than a pitch of three teeth

If we compare a hardened and a regular tooth, the difference is that in the first option, provided that it is used in everyday life, the product does not become dull for a long time. But a hacksaw with a hardened tooth cannot be sharpened again. When it starts cutting badly, you just have to throw it away.

An ordinary tooth can be sharpened. This can be done periodically using a special file marked with an accident (for sharpening saws). To sharpen the blade, it is enough to perform several movements on each tooth.

Depending on the type of teeth used, there are three types of hand saws:

  1. For longitudinal sawing. The products are equipped with teeth in the form of an oblique triangle and look like hooks. The tool allows you to cut wood along the grain. Such saws are sharpened on both sides of the tooth, thanks to which they are able to cut both when passing forward and in the opposite direction.
  2. For cross cutting. The teeth of the instruments are shaped isosceles triangles. This design makes it easy to cut material both when moving the cutting edge forward and in the opposite direction. But this type of tooth is only suitable for working with dry workpieces, not fresh wood.
  3. For mixed sawing. Products have combined composition, in which triangular edges are combined with slightly elongated semicircular serrations. This solution allows the semicircular teeth to perform a guide cut when moving the hand forward, and when returning, the triangular teeth expand the channel, removing chips and sawdust from it.

Some types of modern tools are equipped with teeth that are shaped like a trapezoid. This solution makes the fabric more durable and wear-resistant.

But it is worth considering that sharpening such a blade is very problematic, since it is difficult to give the trapezoidal teeth the desired shape. This significantly reduces the service life of the product, after which it is necessary to change the blade or purchase a new tool.

For sawing fresh branches, it is more convenient to use blades equipped with triangular teeth processed by parallel sharpening, in which each element is sharpened only on one side and in a checkerboard pattern.

You can often find a modernized type of hacksaw on the market.

Modernized hacksaws can be easily distinguished by the teeth located on the blade in groups, between which the spaces are clearly visible

Retrofitted hand saws are effective for cutting raw wood. Wet chips easily come out of the cut through the spaces between the teeth during the cutting process, without impeding the movement of the tool.

Types of hand saws for wood

A small narrow saw is a structure that consists of a straight flat blade and a handle. It is used to perform delicate work: through cuts, sawing out curved parts.

This type of tool is intended for cutting wooden pieces whose thickness does not exceed 8-10 cm, sawing small branches and minor work in the garden.

When making narrow models, manufacturers install blades with triangular double-sided teeth, or with parallel sharpening. The disadvantage of the tool is that when pressed during operation, the blade can deviate from the given direction.

Option #2 - regular

A standard hand saw can be equipped with any type of teeth and often comes with replacement blades various types and execution.

To be able to cut workpieces at a certain angle using a standard hand saw, you have to purchase special miter boxes

But despite the stated versatility of their use, it is not advisable to use saws of this type in the manufacture of furniture.

Option #3 - with a butt

Both narrow and regular saws tend to bend as the hardness of the material being processed increases. In these cases, it is effective to use canvases equipped with a backing, which acts as a kind of stiffening rib.

Hand hacksaws equipped with a backing are designed to create shallow cuts in a wooden surface of any thickness.

The presence of a backing prevents the saw from making a cut deeper than the width of the blade, since it prevents the cutting blade from passing further into the tree.

Option #4 - archery

Bow-type saws are more bulky devices that act as an analogue of a jigsaw.

The main purpose of saws of this type is to create an accurate cut when working with surfaces located at any angle.

Thanks to the solid design and threaded connections of the handles, bow-type saws are able to easily overcome knots, cutting along radii and curved patterns.

Depending on the purpose and design solution, saws can be:

  • sweeping – for longitudinal cutting;
  • transverse – for sawing workpieces across the wood fiber;
  • round - for cutting holes, making roundings and figure sawing;
  • tenon - for cutting connecting tenons, as well as cutting out simple geometric shapes on the workpiece.

Only with a bow-type hacksaw can you cut the material lengthwise and crosswise, sawing workpieces with complex lines and doing the work alone without the involvement of an assistant.

The procedure for choosing a hand saw for wood is quite simple:

  1. Determine the purpose for which the tool will be used. For carpentry work, choose products with fine teeth, which ensure high cutting accuracy; for carpentry, choose blades with large teeth.
  2. Frequency of application. If the hand saw will be used only for one-time work, choose a tool with hardened teeth. The service life of this type of product is quite long. In addition, you will not have to worry about sharpening and setting teeth during operation.
  3. Uniformity of the canvas. While inspecting the tool, try to carefully bend the blade, setting an angle of 30-45°, and then release it. Re-inspect the blade: the slightest deviations at the bend point, even within 2 mm, indicate poor quality of the metal.
  4. Product cost. As when choosing other tools, keep in mind that high-quality models from leading brands are always an order of magnitude more expensive than consumer goods. This overpayment acts as a kind of guarantee of the wear resistance and durability of the saw. But for one-time jobs there is no point in spending money on an expensive tool.

Conventional handles are made of plastic. Prefabricated plastic handles, made of two halves, do not have sufficient rigidity. It is much more convenient to work with a tool that has a one-piece handle, which is equipped with a rubberized backing for the fingers. The presence of a rubber insert allows for a tighter grip, preventing the formation of calluses on the palm.

Pay attention to the design of the tool handle: it is desirable that it has an ergonomic shape that allows you to correctly transfer force to the blade

There are products on sale with standard and reversible handles. The second option is convenient because it allows you, if necessary, to replace the worn blade with a new one.

Keep in mind that not all hand saws come on sale already sharpened. And this seemingly trifle largely determines how quickly you can get to work.

There are many companies producing hacksaws on the market. Judging by the reviews, they have proven themselves well: the domestically produced Zubr hacksaw, the Gross Piranha of joint German-Chinese cooperation, and the Irwin Xpert made in the USA. They are famous for their decent quality at a low price, which varies between 10-20 USD.

Finally, we invite you to watch a video with tips for choosing:

Longitudinal sawing of wood with a circular saw - complex process closed cutting with a multi-cutting rotating tool in the shape of a disk (circular saw), in which the feed speed vector coincides with the direction of the wood fibers and the cut is parallel to the fibers.

Rice. Kinematics and geometry of the cut layer during longitudinal sawing with a circular saw - sawing scheme with the saw located at the top relative to the workpiece.

Ripping is the operating process of a large and diverse group of circular saws designed for dividing by width and thickness in the technological operation of longitudinal cutting of logs, beams, boards, slabs, bars and slats.

When longitudinal sawing, the main (short) blade of the tooth cuts the wood fibers and forms the bottom of the cut, and the side blades participate in the formation of the cut wall. This distribution of functions predetermines the requirements for the geometry of the saw teeth for longitudinal sawing: the short blade must be moved forward in the direction of rotation relative to the front edge due to the positive angle y. This will cut the fibers before they begin to separate from the front edge. With increased requirements for the quality of the cut walls, a positive cut must be created at the side blades rake angle due to oblique sharpening along the front edge. Since the teeth form two walls of the cut, oblique sharpening must be done through the tooth: for even teeth - in one direction, for odd teeth - in the other.

The cutting diameter (saw diameter) D = 2R, mm, is assumed to be the same for all teeth. The rotation speed of the saw n, min "1, is considered constant. Then the speed of the main movement vr (m/s) will be

V CP = pi*D*n/60*1000, (m/s).

The feed movement is usually applied to the workpiece. Mechanical feed speed vs in machine tools reaches 100 m/min or more.

The feed per one revolution of the saw S0 and per tooth Sz (mm) is determined by the formulas:

So=1000*Vs/n, Sz=So/z. N = k*Apopr*Vopr*t*Vs/60.

A distinction is made between sawing with counter feed, when the projection of the cutting speed ve on the direction of feed and the vector of feed speed of the workpiece vs are directed towards each other, and with cutting feed, when they coincide in direction.



In rip sawing, downfeed is rarely used. Climb feed is often found in crosscut sawing when the workpiece is stationary. In Fig. Sawing with counter feed is shown. Changing the direction of the vs vector will correspond to the sawing pattern with a passing feed.

Geometry of the cut layer. The layer is cut along the arc AB, which is called the arc of tooth-wood contact. Point A is the entry point, point B is the exit point of the tooth from the wood. Midpoint C bisects the arc of contact.

Forces and cutting power. Forces Fx and Fz on one saw tooth. The lateral force Fy is defined as the projection onto the Y axis of the resultant interaction force of the teeth, the interaction force of the chips and the interaction force of the saw blade with the wood.

For longitudinal sawing, solid steel saws are used (Fig. 3, c, e). For finishing sawing, saws with a negative rake angle are used (Fig. 3g), as well as saws with carbide blades.

For cross-cutting, round flat saws with teeth are used (Fig. 3, a, b, c), (number of teeth, Z = 48, 60, 72, 96 pcs.).

Cross-cutting is a circular sawing formed as a result of sawing the end surfaces.

Power characteristics of cross cutting.

Nres = k*Vpopr*t*Vs/1000*60. Px cp = Px table * Vpr * Appr.

When cross-cutting, the operating conditions of the tool blades are much more complicated; based on this, the calculation of the cutting forces on the tooth is carried out using experimental data, i.e., P x avg. calculated through P xt, related to the unit of cutting width: P x av = P xt V right and right;

P z avg on a tooth is calculated by P x avg: P z avg = mP x avg; P x env, and P z env are calculated

identical to sawing along the grain of wood.