How to shoot in the dark. Secrets of night photography without flash
Greetings, dear readers! In touch, Timur Mustaev. Do you still only take photos during the day? Then we are coming to you!
I can't help but agree that shooting in a clear day sunny day promises success in business, but is hiding at home at dusk really the lot of an enthusiast?
In the dark, taking photos with a DSLR can be an adventure, resulting in great shots.
Regardless of the level of skill, any amateur photographer is obliged to convey the surrounding atmosphere of the night and his own attitude to what is happening through a photograph.
Often natural light conditions do not allow full-fledged work, which significantly spoils the mood and discourages the desire to shoot anything.
But what can we do? How to photograph at night, in low light, while still fulfilling the photographer’s direct task?
You will find the answer to this and other questions in today's article.
Night photography
However, the darkness is designed in such a way that it absorbs everything around, so it is impossible to take a high-quality photo without special settings and accessories.
Let's look at the features of setting up the camera for the dark.
When going on a night photo shoot, remember that shooting without it is impossible, since poor light conditions require increasing the value of and, which can cause movement and, accordingly, blurring of the frame.
Before taking photographs, set the exposure metering for fragments with average illumination.
As already said, shoot without flash ( we're talking about about the built-in one), because it will illuminate absolutely not what you would like, leaving the important in the dark.
Tighten the focus yourself, aiming at the main subject. This is if you use manual focusing, which is most correct at night, since autofocus can fail due to lack of light and simply will not focus.
Set the ISO value to the minimum possible under the given conditions to reduce the likelihood of “wild” noise appearing in dark areas of the frame. For example, for cameras with ISO values above 800, there is a risk of noise.
There are many colorful light sources on the street, such as the moon, lanterns, shop windows, car headlights, attractions, etc. The optimal solution in this case is to shoot on AWB (auto white balance).
All color distortions can be corrected in the future in any photo editor by mixing the sliders to the desired level.
In addition to a tripod, use a cable release or remote control.
If you don't have these extras, make do with what you have, which is to turn on the timer mode with a two-second shutter delay.
Thus, the need to press the shutter button will disappear by itself, thereby avoiding physical impact on the camera, which leads to movement.
To reduce the amount of camera shake, you can also use the Mirror Lock-Up feature, which lives deep in the settings. This mode allows you to raise the mirror in advance of the descent.
It is advisable to take photographs in , this will help you better edit your photo.
Choosing a location. Night composition
Before you go to a night photo shoot, scout out the situation, find a good shooting point, and assess the degree of illumination of the object.
If you plan to photograph architecture, be sure to analyze road traffic and the degree of congestion on the streets.
In other words, find best place, where the lights of the night city will look most advantageous.
Think through the scene carefully before you pull the trigger. Which parts of the frame are in the dark, and which parts are too overexposed? How can this be advantageously displayed in a photo?
Don't be afraid to zoom in or change your point of view by moving from one location to another.
It is important to find a middle ground, both in lighting and in the composition of the frame, so as not to cut off certain parts of the object.
Take advantage of the reflectivity of water, which can double the amount of lights and color in a photo.
Even in winter time, the reflection of light from wet asphalt or ice can add variety to even the most ordinary, random shot.
How to photograph people at night?
It is a mistake to think that photographing people at night is only possible with a flash, since natural light from lamps and various LEDs will give photographs an interesting, natural look, the kind we are used to seeing with our own eyes.
However, if your plan is to shoot people from behind the bushes (so they can't see you), your shutter speed should be as fast as possible to capture and stop motion.
To stop motion, as a rule, you need a fast lens with high sensitivity (aperture - f/1.4-1.8).
Sensitivity is adjusted using ISO; the higher its value, the less light is needed for accurate exposure of the photo.
To capture a person in a motionless state, set the aperture to minimum, the shutter speed to 1/15, for a person who is moving - from 1/60 to 1/500, ISO value to 1600.
When you raise your ISO above 800, be prepared to see grain in the photo.
If we talk specifically about a portrait, then the average values of the camera will be as follows. ISO 100-200, shutter speed approximately 1/15, aperture 1.8-3.5. A tripod, a cable release and preferably a diffuser are required.
Car in the frame. A photographer's advantage or disadvantage?
Any car or motorcycle transport is capable of destroying the overall composition of the photo. daytime. But what happens at night?
The light from headlights and stoplights is projected onto the photo as multi-colored ribbons that permeate the entire picture.
This effect allows you to get a pretty artistic photo, and also makes the highway the main filming location.
To achieve multi-colored ribbons, you need to set a long shutter speed, about 20-30 seconds. (of course, it is important to use a tripod and a shutter remote control). To do this, it is better to use (Tv - Canon, S - Nikon), or (M). In both modes, set the ISO to minimum, 100-200. In the second mode, the aperture can be opened within the range of 7.1-11, if necessary, you can set it further higher value, that is, minimally close the aperture hole.
It is better to take pictures from above; a pedestrian bridge or the roof of a high-rise building located next to the highway is perfect for this purpose.
When and how to use flash?
Photos taken using the built-in flash can be extremely frustrating.
The light from this source “hits you head on”, making objects and subjects overexposed, and the background covered in darkness. Hard shadows appear.
The flash will play important role at portrait photography, in low light conditions from lanterns, lamps, shop windows, etc., and then provided that an external one is used.
IN in this case It is better to use (softbox) to make the complexion more natural, without obvious overexposure.
You can also shoot a portrait in slow sync mode. This can be set either in the camera settings or in the external flash settings.
To enable slow sync, for example, on the Nikon d5100 you need to select the “Slow” mode in the flash settings, and on the canon 600d also in the settings.
Conclusions
As you understand from the above, shooting at night is not only possible, but also vital for developing yourself as a photographer.
CAUTION: Such an experiment can drag you into the wilds nightlife with the head.
I hope you understand, and I have conveyed my point to you, when you are afraid, everything seems quite complicated, when you do it, everything seems very simple. Practice more and you will definitely succeed.
If you are having trouble with your DSLR camera and need help, you can check out the video course - Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0. I am more than sure that you will find all the answers about your DSLR in it.
Subscribe to blog updates and become closer to the level of a professional! Share this article with your friends, this is your best reward for me!
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
There are photographers who don’t go out at night. Many people have the impression that due to a lack of natural light, everything you shoot will turn out blurry, noisy or dark. In fact, in most city centers there are plenty of photographic opportunities just waiting to be exploited, all with just available light.
Where to start?
First of all, you need to find a suitable location. I would recommend a vibrant city center which has a huge variety of potential subjects to shoot and a choice of light sources such as transport systems, architecture and features such as fountains and statues.
Start working in a familiar environment, somewhere where you feel safe and know where the best vantage points and views are. It might even be better to take a friend with you to be on the safe side. You should probably plan your route, stopping at various points of special interest. This will give your walk some structure and you will be able to work in a variety of conditions.
A matter of time
So, once you have decided where you are going, you should think about the time at which you will visit the chosen place. Check online when the sun sets and plan your exit around given time. My favorite time It's twilight for the shoot, so I arrive at the location about half an hour before sunset. This way you can work in the twilight hour before it gets dark and you start your work in the dark.
Shutter priority
I recommend that you start by setting your camera to shutter priority mode, which will allow you to judge the amount of light needed for specific types of shots based on the availability of natural and artificial light.
Try starting with 1 or 2 seconds, depending on whether you are working with static or moving light sources. Since you're missing into the cell sufficient quantity light, using adequate shutter speed, you can afford low values ISO for a sharp photo.
If you are comfortable working in full manual mode, then I suggest choosing a narrow aperture, around f/12 to f/16, which will allow you to get greater depth of field for wide shots.
What is the temperature?
You should shoot in RAW not only because this format provides versatility for editing photos taken in difficult lighting conditions, but also because it is extremely useful for changing white balance. The light sources available in urban environments vary greatly and therefore the color temperature of the light also varies, so in this case it is very important to be able to control the white balance during post-production.
Gear up
Given that you'll be working at slower shutter speeds, handheld shooting will be impossible, so you'll need a few pieces of equipment to get clear, sharp photos. First of all, it is extremely important to have a stable tripod in combination with the remote control remote control, allowing you to shoot hands-free and avoid any accidental shake.
It's also good to work with a wide-angle lens, mostly because in the city there are limitations on vantage points and where you can fit, so something like 18mm or 24mm is ideal and will allow you to fit the entire view in front of you. entirely. It is also worth attaching a lens hood, which is usually used in very bright conditions, but in the city there is a huge variety of light sources, which can lead to unwanted reflections.
What is the subject?
In a city space at night, anything that emits light can be considered a potential subject. For starters, you can photograph office buildings, hotels, storefronts and architecture in general. Don't forget to consider architectural details just because it's dark.
Through the use of a long shutter speed, these subtleties may not necessarily be revealed in the same way as they are perceived in daylight. Street lights will also help you, providing additional illumination in any situation.
Catch the moving lights
In addition to stationary light sources, there are huge amount moving ones, which can result in extremely attractive images. Cars, trains, buses, trams and Ferris wheels can be used to capture light trails on long exposure.
Use shutter priority mode to choose the appropriate amount of time for a given light source to pass through the frame, resulting in a light trail in the image. One useful technique is to calculate the necessary time before shooting so that you know what shutter speed to choose, keeping in mind that there may be certain variations depending on the speed of the light source.
With all the talk about shutter speed, it's easy to forget about other elements of a photo, such as composition. Once you have everything set up the way you want, think about the placement of elements in the frame, are the light trails leading into or through the frame? Think about the surrounding architecture that frames your lights and how you can use the rule of thirds.
Playing with the zoom
There are also a couple of fun techniques you can try to improve your city night shots. For this one you need a standard zoom lens, just select your light source and make sure the lens is at its farthest position.
Press the shutter button and while exposure continues, move the zoom full turn, ending as close as possible to the moment the shutter closes. This should give you the effect of light rushing towards the viewer. Now try doing this in the opposite direction, starting as close as possible and gradually moving away.
Panoramas of the night city
Creating a great panorama depends on finding a good vantage point, so head a little further from the city center in search of high point, from which you can fully see the city skyline. It is definitely preferable to find a vantage point in daylight and wait until it gets dark to avoid searching in the dark.
Look for a strong composition that includes differences in building heights and an element of interest throughout the frame. Experiment with exposure times to get the correct exposure to ensure all light sources are clearly visible, highlighting the outlines of buildings.
Now you!
So now it's your turn. There are a huge number of methods and options for working at night, especially given the variety of urban views to choose from. Once you've photographed the cities you're already familiar with, it's worth exploring the vast selection of subjects in your new territory.
I find that I have much more visual awareness when working in terrain I don't yet know. I'm drawn to details and features that I would otherwise ignore if I were just working on the familiar streets of my hometown.
Many thanks to Mike fromManchester Photographicfor the inspiration to write this article.
Photo: Wilson Lee
Diversity
At night there is always a huge variety of things happening, accompanied by different lighting. From bright bright lights to cold ones blue shades. Observe the difference in shades. You already know how important light in photography. Earlier photographers, even professionals, spent a lot of effort to overcome the difficulties associated with lighting and color. Setting up the device has always been difficult. But in today's digital world, new technologies are challenging new technologies.
Preparation
Take only a few essential items with you. You can use a tripod, but make sure that the load does not burden you and that you can easily move around. Don't waste your time thinking in vain about which lens use and how to arrange it correctly frame where to shine the flashlight. All this should happen unobtrusively. In addition, people have a wonderful organ of vision. Your eyes will begin to adapt to even the harshest low-light conditions. If you wait a little, you will be able to see a lot.
Object and composition
Whether it's day or night, choosing a subject to shoot is very important. The subject characterizes your photo. And what is included in the frame can contribute to a better presentation of your work, raise it to a higher high level. Of course, difficulties arise here due to difficult night lighting conditions. But you need to be sure that whatever was photographed during the day can also be photographed at night. There are a huge number of lighting techniques you can use to make your subject even more interesting.
Focus and aperture
The most difficult task- define object And correct composition. On your menu cameras there must be a luxury feature - autofocus with great capabilities to catch object in the right place, but it does not help in these lighting conditions. You'll need to learn how to manually focus, and also try checking the frame in the viewfinder before deciding on the final shot. This is a tricky experiment because when an object is difficult to see with the naked eye, it must be even more difficult to detect with a viewfinder. Try a higher one International Organization According to Standardization, more portable exposure tests, ideal central placement and everything should work out.
Diaphragms
Not every time you can use it all the time diaphragm with the highest value. Of course, everyone knows that the largest aperture gives more light, longer shutter speed, and therefore less blur and more opportunities to get a great shot. It is important to note that when planning a time or long exposure plan, your aperture settings will be adjusted accordingly. Some decline aperture may also be useful in this case.
Dynamic range
Night filming distinguishes great variety light sources from everywhere, as opposed to just natural light during the day. This makes the space look like a theater stage with different light sources and different lights. Dynamic range is the difference between the brightest white and the darkest black within your scene. Shooting only in moonlight cannot be very dynamic, it is weak compared to sunlight, and therefore at long shutter speeds, this produces subtle shadows, turning the range into a narrow dynamic range.
Conclusion
At the very beginning, most likely, you will find it difficult. You need to learn to adapt to unusual lighting conditions. It is also quite difficult to determine the subject of your photo and its framing. People are not relaxed because they are in a hurry to get home or are busy with their own affairs, uneven light with different sides, varied color balance with highs and lows in the color palette. And yet you will begin to find the right decision. Little by little, challenges will turn into opportunities to make you a better photographer.
Tonight you can go outside and start mastering night photography techniques. Discover the unknown, improve yourself!
Read other materials on the topic:
Taking a beautiful portrait while walking through the city at night is quite difficult due to insufficient street lighting or too bright flickering background in the form of night city lights.
But it is still possible if you follow our simple tips for photographing people at night .
1. Bring the appropriate equipment:
- SLR camera. It’s quite difficult to take a good portrait in the dark with a regular digital point-and-shoot camera, so if you don’t have a DSLR camera, rent one from a friend or rent it from a photo salon.
- fast lens with aperture f1.4-1.8. It has no equal when it comes to taking low-light portraits.
External flash. The built-in flash of the camera emits a very small amount of light, so you will have to photograph your model at a distance of 1-1.5 meters, and at such a distance, even if you want, you cannot take a full-length portrait. In addition, the built-in flash produces rather harsh light, which makes the photographed person’s face visually flat, without pronounced features. 
- flash diffuser. It is not required, but is still preferred if you want the light from the flash to be diffused and soft.
Monopod. You can use a tripod, but it will be inconvenient for you to carry it around the city, so it is better to use a lightweight monopod, plus a remote control for better image stabilization. 
2. Work in aperture priority
It is better to shoot a night portrait in Aperture Priority mode. This will make it easier for you to control the blur of the background, and you will no longer have to think about shutter speed, because. The camera itself will select its optimal value. 
3. Use an external flash
It is better to take photographs at night with an external flash at a distance of two meters from the subject, but no further than five meters. Be sure to pay attention to the flash power. Too much flash at close range can whiten the model's face. To avoid this, use a flash diffuser or simply adjust its power by accessing the camera menu. There is another option: point the flash not at the model itself, but at a white wall or photo reflector located on the side of the model. 
4. Creative approach or how to make a truly beautiful night portrait?
Do you want to take a truly beautiful night portrait? Find a suitable location to shoot first. This could be a street well lit with lanterns, a bridge from which the city at night is clearly visible, or a central street of the city where the traffic flow does not decrease even at night. Place your model so that the lights of the night city are behind her and subsequently turn into the same beautiful background as in the photo below.
Next, adjust the camera so that you get the same beautiful bokeh effect : ISO highest value(800 – 1600 units), maximum open aperture (f1.4 – f3.5), shutter speed (if you shoot in manual mode) 1/20 – 1/30 sec., focus mode – single-point.
5. Take night portraits without flash
Unfortunately, not all beginning photographers have external flash, so many of them use the built-in one, after putting a homemade white paper diffuser on it. We suggest that you abandon this idea and shoot a night portrait without a flash, because it can be replaced by bright city lighting, car headlights, and even an LED flashlight. To avoid image blur, use a tripod or monopod. 
Night photography is not easy, but it can be one of the ways to create artistic shots. It's not just landscapes that can be photographed effectively at night. Portrait photos taken in moonlight look mysterious and unusual. Even ordinary, familiar things that do not cause any interest during the day can become fascinating. To reach high results, you need a camera and a tripod.
People often think that high-quality night photos require super-expensive SLR camera with similar price fast lens. Another misconception is that a DSLR must have an ISO of 1600 or higher. In fact, all that is required is manual adjustment (M) or shutter priority setting (TV). An 8 second shutter speed is enough for shooting. A tripod will provide the necessary stability for the device. The sensitivity of the matrix and the lens aperture are not so important during a night session. They are compensated by a long shutter speed. When photographing at night, mount your camera on a tripod. It needs to be stable, hard, and about twice as heavy as the camera. Then the device will not sway “like in the wind.” If you don't have a tripod, place the camera on a hard, level surface. This position allows you to shoot at long shutter speeds without raising the ISO, so that there is no strong noise, which is inevitable when it is increased. Turn off the stabilizer. It works at a shutter speed of ¼ sec for handheld photography. Switch to “Manual” mode. Sometimes it is missing, then the program exposure mode (P) will do. Turn off the built-in flash. She won't cope in the conditions night shooting, will illuminate only one nearby object, everything else will remain in the dark. Autofocus and exposure metering will not help you take a good night photo.
Don't make your shutter speed too long. Even Photoshop can’t save “overexposed” photos. Take at least three frames - darker and lighter, then choose the best one. Night photography as an art form is described in Lee Frost's book Night and Evening Photography.
