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Kamchatka. How to get there inexpensively and where to stay

I suggest doing it yourself trip to Kamchatka on a visit to the volcanoes in the Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve. We will see the Valley of Geysers, the caldera of the Uzon volcano, and the Valley of Death. Here are approximate prices and travel plans.

Conditions and prices of travel to Kamchatka

  • TIME DIFFERENCE +8 hours.
  • WHEN is better (my opinion)
  • HOW TO GET THERE - From Moscow itself directly to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky: by plane (9 hours) - from 21,000 RUR. Tour along the described route - from 2500-3000.
  • TRANSPORTATION - Helicopter rental - from 32,000 RUR/hour.
  • WEATHER - The climate is quite harsh and harsh. The average temperature in winter is approximately -16... -21°C. It snows a lot during the winter. Along the coast the climate is usually milder than in the center of the peninsula.
  • DURATION – 10 days
  • ACCOMMODATION - price of a room in hotels in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky - 3900—5500 RUR/cyr. Accommodation in a camp site - from 2700 RUR/day.

Kamchatka - Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve

Kamchatka is a land of geysers and volcanoes. Surely, there is not a person in our country who has not expected to see live the most volcanically active peninsula at least once in his life. Kamchatka region is a natural nursery of volcanoes. There are young, ancient and destroyed volcanoes here. In this region they study various processes associated with volcanic activity, such as numerous mud volcanoes, gas-emitting fumaroles and, of course, billowing pillars hot water- geysers.

One of the best and most beautiful areas in Kamchatsk is the Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve. It is located on east coast, here on an area of ​​more than a million hectares you can find all the landscapes of the Kamchatka Territory - from tundra coastal lowlands to volcanic highlands. The Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve has objects that make it truly unique: a beautiful ridge of sixteen volcanoes, the famous Valley of Geysers, the beautiful and large Kronotsky Lake (the second largest in Kamchatka), a caldera bubbling with acid and gas. Uzon and glaciers stretching for many kilometers.

Uzon Volcano Caldera

Caldera c. Uzon is a volcanic bowl 10-12 km in diameter and the height of the sides is 210-850 m. Inside the caldera there are thousands of thermal springs, many mud caverns and acid lakes. The caldera was formed more than 40 thousand years ago, after the complete destruction of the Uzon volcano, but volcanic activity continues here to this day. Active processes gas emissions gave rise to places such as Death Valley, Lake Bannoye with a reservoir of molten sulfur, and yellow fumarole fields. 65 hydrothermal minerals were found in the volcano's caldera. One of them is uzonite, which is found nowhere else in the world.

Valley of Geysers of Kamchatka

- an amazing corner of our planet. This place is full of swirling steam and rain of colorful spray all year round. In a small area of ​​2 square kilometers. There are more than twenty large geysers capable of raising tons of hot water to a height of several tens of meters. In addition to geysers, the valley has many pulsating thermal springs, fumaroles, and cascades of small waterfalls. The surface of the valley is covered with bacteria and rainbow thermophilic algae that live wherever there is even a small trickle of hot water. All this is a phenomenon on a global scale.

Death Valley


Death Valley - natural phenomenon, which is observed only in a few corners of the planet near volcanoes. In such places there is usually no vegetation and dead animals are found. For humans, an explosive cocktail of gases also poses a danger. It causes a strong headache, weakness, dizziness, and if you spend a lot of time in the valley, it can end tragically. But as soon as you go out into an open, well-ventilated area, all the symptoms quickly pass and the body recovers. Caution should be exercised when visiting Death Valley. The composition of toxic gases in the Kamchatka Death Valley is considered the most caustic and dangerous compared to gases in other similar places.

Travel to Kamchatka volcanoes

Days 1-2

In Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky we check into one of the hotels. We will walk around the city, visit the Museum and the Museum of Modern Volcanism. We bathe in thermal springs, stocking up on health. Let's go to local restaurants and try fish dishes.

Day 3-4

We fly by helicopter to the Valley of Geysers. On the road we look at the current one. Karymsky, an acid lake in the very crater of the Maly Semyachik volcano. We will explore the unique area and watch the hot water fountains. We go to the “Glukhaya” camp site, where we occupy one of the houses.

Day 5-6

After breakfast, walk along the caldera of the long-awaited Uzon volcano to Lake Dalneye.
We look at the volcanic cones on the horizon and admire the beauty of this region. We go to the lake located in the crater of a dormant volcano. We arrange a short break on the shore of the lake. Continue along the stream. Spend the night in a tent on the bank of a stream a few kilometers from the lake.

Days 7-8

After camp breakfast we continue our journey. We examine manifestations of early volcanism, study miniature mud volcanoes, mud pots and volcanic sediments. We are moving to the Valley of Death. Having visited its deserted area, we carefully explore this dangerous area. We set up our camp a few kilometers from the valley, rest while we spend the night in tents.

Day 9-10

In the morning we pack up our belongings and tent and head straight along the Geysernaya River to the camp site, located not far from the already seen Valley of Geysers. We take a walk and visit the valley again. In the evening we go to take a steam bath. The main part of the journey is over. In the morning we make the final flight by helicopter to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. You can go to the local market and buy a few souvenirs.

Our exciting journey to Kamchatka has ended. I hope the travel plan will help you find your way around, and the prices listed here (probably they have already changed) will help you decide on your budget. Have a nice trip!

And then share your impressions.

We all know that when it is 15.00 in Moscow, it is midnight in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, which indicates that Kamchatka is very far from the capital.

This is the land of hills, geysers, erupting volcanoes, sandwiches with red caviar and brown bears stealing fish. An expedition to Kamchatka is an expensive and responsible undertaking.

In this article, even if we try, we will not be able to cover all the intricacies of Kamchatka tourism. But we will try to give a succinct overview of the “interesting things”, talk about independent travels, helicopter and car expeditions, and also spice up the dry narrative with video material. Let's go!

Excursion to Kamchatka

Before planning a trip and planning routes to this harsh region, you need to decide on the travel time.

The peninsula has a rather unique climate, which is formed by the mountainous terrain and the proximity of the Pacific Ocean.

In Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky the climate is maritime and quite mild for the local latitudes: +15°C in summer and around -10°C in winter.

Tourists most often come to these areas in spring and summer. Let's look at the benefits of each season.

  • Spring. In March and April there are:
    • ski fun;
    • snowmobile expeditions;
    • other winter activities.

    It is best to go to the north of the region.

  • Summer. This season also partially covers September.
    During this period, you can admire the beauty of Kamchatka and its unique nature. And there is something to see here:
    • volcanoes,
    • lakes,
    • hills,
    • forests,
    • perfectly preserved fauna.

When going to the north of Kamchatka in winter, get ready for frost: the mercury at the beginning of the year remains at -22°C.

Only inquisitive minds are able to fully appreciate.

Find out as much as you can about the region before you go.

Video of travel around Kamchatka

After watching the video, you will understand a lot - you will be immersed in an isolated corner of the planet, which until recently was banned.

Traveling by car

You can arrange a safari in Kamchatka yourself, or use the help of tour operators who organize multi-day road expeditions.

The local landscape is predominantly mountainous and hilly, so summer time The optimal transport would be an SUV.

Tours to the Bystrinsky district are regularly organized from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Often the end point of the journey is one of the villages located there.

This is what it looks like approximate diagram forced march to the village of Esse (600 km from the regional capital):

  • Day 1. Arrival at the Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky bus station. Transfer to Esso with an intermediate stop in Milkovo.
    Arrival and accommodation at a private hotel.
  • Day 2. Sightseeing tour of the village with a mandatory visit to the local museum.
    Snowmobile safari to the Dimchikansky cordon.
    Return to the hotel.
  • Day 3. Snowmobile ride to volcanoes.
  • Day 4. Breakfast and return transfer.

It is clear that snowmobiles are typical for winter recreation.

In summer, SUVs travel on these same routes. No less popular automobile destinations are:

  • Klyuchevskaya Sopka;
  • Lake Azabachye;
  • Tolbachik volcano;
  • Khodutkinsky springs;
  • Kuril Lake;
  • Avachinsky volcano;
  • Nalychevo Valley;
  • caldera of the Uzon volcano;
  • Mutnovsky volcano;
  • Bystraya River;
  • Valley of Geysers.

If your trip is not part of an organized tour (you are planning a savage vacation), then keep in mind that an SUV will not work.

The list of necessary travel equipment should be drawn up in advance.

Traveling on our own

Airfare prices may vary significantly depending on the season. Therefore, it is better to purchase them in advance.

In February, for example, it is quite possible to fly from Moscow and back for 21 thousand rubles, but in August, get ready to shell out 60-70 thousand for the same tickets.

You can stay with private owners or in a hotel in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, but this is also worth worrying about in advance.

What to take on the road:

  1. The right clothes. The choice depends on the time of year.
    It's cold in Kamchatka in winter, but in summer they go heavy rains, which sometimes drag on for weeks and months.
    Conclusion - clothes should be:
    • waterproof,
    • light,
    • durable.

    This includes self-release pants, a storm jacket (preferably with a fleece lining), and thermal underwear.

    In winter, you should focus on warm pants and a waterproof down jacket.

  2. Hiking boots. Shoes must be durable, moisture-resistant and lightweight. Ankle - closed. Buying such boots on the peninsula will cost a pretty penny.
    In winter, give preference to studded boots (useful if climbing a volcano).
  3. Standard tourist stuff:
    • salt,
    • matches,
    • dry fuel.

    All this is packed in polyethylene, which must be tightly sealed.

  4. Basic equipment:
    • tents,
    • ropes,
    • cats,
    • sleeping bags.

    There is no need to take these things with you on the plane - they can be rented in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky.

  5. Weapon. It sounds crazy, but if you have a hunting license, it's worth taking a shotgun with you.
    The population of brown bears in Kamchatka is growing steadily. Cases of “bears” stealing fish and food supplies from village residents have become more frequent.
    It gets to the point of ridiculousness - the inhabitants of the villages come out with mallets to drive the club-footed people away from their farmsteads. Sometimes bears bathe in thermal springs.
    If you don't have a license, buy an air pistol or pepper spray.
  6. GPS navigator. This important tool could one day save your life.
    It is worth purchasing it in advance, since expensive and outdated models are sold on the peninsula. No cards. Download all the software on the mainland, because the Internet on the peninsula is sad.
  7. Spare batteries. You will need it in your phone and navigator.

To survive in Kamchatka and leave more for yourself good impressions, adhere to the following recommendations:

  • Don't disturb wild animals. Observe the fauna from afar, without fanaticism.
  • Drink water safely. The water in Kamchatka is perhaps the cleanest in the world. You can drink it:
    • from the tap,
    • from the rivers
    • lakes
  • Register your route. If your path lies in natural park, register the route with the Kamchatka Directorate of Natural Parks.
  • Travel in a group. Solitude is good, but Kamchatka eats loners for breakfast and immediately forgets about it.
  • Take geographical maps . They can be obtained in souvenir and book stores.
  • Dress warmly. This is especially true for walks along the coast of Avacha Bay.
  • Cash problems. Kamchatka is a wild land with a minimum of ATMs. Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Elizovo - that’s probably all.
    Credit cards are not used in Kamchatka, so stock up on cash in advance.

What to see

Since we went to Kamchatka on our own, it’s worth calculating in advance the places that are of the greatest interest. We have already written about volcanoes and other natural objects, now let’s turn our attention to the centers of civilization.

  • Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Imagine that a time machine took you back to the 60s.
    You have reached the capital of Kamchatka:
    • absence of intrusive advertising;
    • fishing boats in the port;
    • monuments to pioneers;
    • antediluvian "Khrushchev buildings".

    The city is especially beautiful in autumn.

    The rhythm of life here is leisurely, people live at the expense of poachers and sailors.

  • Paratunka. A tiny resort town whose main attraction is thermal springs.
    Sometimes a stream of steam may escape from under the asphalt - this is par for the course here.
    The wind brings volcanic ash from Klyuchevskaya Sopka.
    There is a public thermal complex and several sanatoriums.
  • Elizovo. From here you have an excellent view of the " business card» Kamchatka - Klyuchevskaya Sopka. By the way, this is the highest altitude champion among active Eurasian volcanoes.
    The infrastructure of the town is meager:
    • cafe,
    • hotel,
    • club,
    • dining room.

    There are good connections with Petropavlovsk - buses run hourly.

  • Esso. The best solution there will be a plane for transfer between Petropavlovsk Esso and Yelizovo.
    If you are a supporter of extreme sports and off-road vehicles, get ready for terrifying roads, the likes of which cannot be found in Russia.
    A fast and shallow river flows near the village. Very clean.
    There is no need to look for a hotel in Esso - for 100-200 rubles you will get a room in any local home.
  • Vilyuchinsk. The Americans on their NATO maps designated this closed city as the “Hornet’s Nest.” There is security everywhere (double cordon), a lot of unemployed people, abandoned apartments. This is what the largest home of combat submarines on the planet looks like.
    The submarines moored in the local bay look like a gigantic whale cemetery - an unforgettable sight.

Holidays in winter

Snow-white Kamchatka especially fascinates travelers, providing a lot of opportunities for extreme recreation.

It is better to book seven-day trips from a tour operator - this way you will enjoy all the delights of this wild region.

With the onset of winter, the price of air tickets drops sharply. This worries many people. There are also tourists who are sure that there is nothing to do in Kamchatka in winter.
This is not true - it is not for nothing that the peninsula is called the center of Russian extreme tourism.

Winter holidays can be varied with the following entertainment:

  • dog sled expeditions;
  • heli-skiing (helicopter landing on mountain slopes);
  • freeride on a volcanic landscape;
  • snowmobile trips;
  • :
    • Avache,
    • Paratunka,
    • Fast.
  • mini-expedition (an elite type of vacation, since it lasts a long time, and travelers rarely allow “random” people into their circle);
  • winter sport.

Kamchatka weather is unpredictable and severe. Cyclones can originate in the Pacific Ocean or the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, but weather forecasters cannot predict the speed of their movement. If you see the sun in the morning, this does not mean that there will be no fog in the evening.

Dirt roads are blocked by high snow in winter.

Kamchatka excursions

Helicopter excursions are one of the most expensive pleasures in Kamchatka - their cost starts from 32,000 rubles. True, you will gain impressions for many years forward.

You can fly to the following places:

  • the vicinity of the Uzyan volcano;
  • Maly Semyonchik and Krymsky volcanoes;
  • Valley of Geysers;
  • Kuril Lake (to the bears);
  • Lake Dvukhyurtochnoe;
  • hot lake Khodutka;
  • Zhirovsky hot springs (followed by swimming);
  • craters of volcanoes (Gorely, Mutnovsky, Vilyuchinsky);
  • the highest Eurasian volcanoes (Bezymyanny, Klyuchevskaya Sopka, Tolbachik, Kamen).

Walking and car trips are much cheaper.

The championship here is held by excursions to the Valley of Geysers - traditionally the most popular tourist destination. Tour operators try to include in the program of such trips:

  • swimming in thermal springs;
  • climbing the hills;
  • visiting the caves.

The greatest interest here is the Woodpile rock, the caves of which are of lava origin.

In the vicinity of Vilyuchinsk there is not only a volcano (this is hard to surprise), but also a waterfall, to which walking and car excursions are organized.

Boiling eggs and potatoes in hot springs, visit dog kennels and aboriginal camps - your hands get tired of typing a list of Kamchatka attractions to which experienced guides will take you.

Let's sum it up:

It is cheaper to see the beauty of the Far East in combined tourist groups.

Even having an instructor does not provide a 100% guarantee of your safety - bears and volcano slopes are unpredictable. From time to time there are reports of the death of extreme tourists, so we advise you to arm yourself with restraint, attentiveness and a trusty shotgun.

Let the bear and the fog pass you by!

There are places in the world where you envy yourself when you are there. One of these places is Kamchatka, an amazing land of volcanoes! It always seemed to me something very distant, difficult and expensive, so I once again went to conquer new continents, leaving the far eastern corner of my country for some time later.

Then it came unexpectedly. At the beginning of April, Aeroflot and Transaero simultaneously had summer tickets from Moscow to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and back for 18,000 rubles, which was unprecedented generosity considering the flight range, and we didn’t think twice about it. Within a day, a group of people had gathered, we bought tickets and began planning the trip. Actually, at that moment, all the planning came down to the fact that I found an interesting route called the Pacific Rim from Kamchatka travel agencies, read a couple of reports from people who had walked it on their own, believed in our strength and took this route as a basis. I didn’t know then that the weather and nature would make significant adjustments to our plan, and half of our plans would not come true. But this did not make the trip any less interesting and eventful.

When to go to Kamchatka? Weather

Buying tickets at the beginning of April, we, of course, could not imagine that in addition to a very snowy winter there would be a very late spring, which, it seems, came to Kamchatka along with our arrival on July 24th. On the first day, blooming lilacs greeted us on the streets of the City. And we spent the next three days among two-meter snowdrifts of dense July snow, of which there was so much around that it seemed as if we were in the Kingdom of White with rare islands of thawed patches covered with bright spring flowers.

The snow was wet, and along with it, the feet in “waterproof” boots were constantly wet. It is no coincidence that local guides only wear rubber boots! Periodically squeezing water out of socks became a common practice, but thanks to the sunny weather and +20 degrees of heat, no one ended up getting sick.

Local residents told us that it rained continuously throughout June, the weather in July was also not pleasant, and the only six sunny days in July fell just at the beginning of our trip to Kamchatka.

One day I talked to a girl from Moscow, who said that she was in Kamchatka at the same time three years ago, and then the nature resembled the sun-scorched steppes of the Crimea, and it was so hot that the group did some transitions and ascents in swimsuits/ swimming trunks So it doesn't happen year after year. But we saw an incredible combination of snow, bright greenery and amazing Kamchatka flowers - contrasts were everywhere!

Unfortunately, a week after our arrival the weather deteriorated, it rained continuously for two days, and the remaining three days were cloudy. So we never saw any volcanoes from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, and the Pacific coast was cloudy and drizzly.

Next time, I’ll probably try to come to Kamchatka at the end of August, and sometime in mid-late September, in order to catch both the berries and the colors of autumn, so as not to walk in the snow and easily ford the shallow mountain rivers, as well as try to see how the fish goes to spawn. And the bears will already be full))

Features of Kamchatka

The first thing that catches your eye upon arrival is the right-hand drive cars. There are probably more than 90 percent of them in Kamchatka. At the entrance/exit of the airport around the parking ticket terminal there are even two lanes - for left-hand drive cars and for right-hand drive cars. The few left-hand drive cars are either rare domestic ones or completely new cars from the showroom. Among the cars, Japanese ones predominate. And among the left-hand drive buses there are Korean ones.

There are few roads in Kamchatka, and even fewer asphalt roads, so the vast majority of cars are SUVs. The Delica, mounted on tall and wide wheels, is very popular - on such units people manage to drive almost to the very top of the Gorely volcano, as much as 1500 meters.

Organized tourists are transported on shift vehicles made on the basis of Kamaz, GAZ and ZIL.

There are only one or two cities in Kamchatka. But for local residents of Kamchatka, only Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky deserves the name City. That’s what they usually say: “I’m going to the City, I can give you a ride to the City.”

The self-name of the local residents is Kamchadal.

Although Kamchatka is not an island, but a peninsula, the rest of Russia is called the “mainland”, and visiting Russians are called “from the mainland”. There are no roads connecting Kamchatka with “mainland” Russia through Chukotka or the Magadan region (except for winter roads), and you can only get to the mainland by plane or sea.

If you want to pass as one of your own, put the emphasis on the first syllable in the names of the settlements Elizovo, Pinachevo and Nalychevo))

Prices in Kamchatka for food, transport and housing

We knew that everything in Kamchatka is very expensive, so we brought all the food with us for an autonomous trip for 10 days from Moscow.

IN last days in Kamchatka we went on an “excursion” to the largest supermarket on the peninsula called Shamsa, and were horrified by the local prices. A kilogram of apples at the beginning of August cost 200 rubles, a kilogram of bananas 180 rubles. There's a problem with dairy products! It is difficult for a resident of “mainland” Russia, accustomed to the variety of milk and kefir, to look without tears at a small shelf in a huge supermarket, where a couple of dozen packages of gourmet kefir are laid out in 3 piles. 73 rubles per 400 grams. That's 182 rubles for the usual liter/kilo of kefir!!!

Since we had plenty of food with us, we only bought caviar on the spot (1,600 rubles per kilo of chum salmon caviar, 1,800 rubles per kilo of sockeye salmon or pink salmon caviar, 2,500 rubles per kilo of Chinook salmon caviar), cold-smoked fish (700 rubles . per kilo of sockeye salmon or chinook salmon), potatoes (30 rubles/kilo), bread and expensive “delicacy” butter. We were pleased with the prices for fresh fish - from 80 rubles per kilogram of salmon fish.

The prices in the restaurants turned out to be surprisingly no higher than in Moscow, while the portions were large and the food was very, very tasty. I really liked the Boulevard restaurant in the Shamsa shopping center on Pobeda Avenue - I have never eaten such delicious sushi and miso soups in Moscow! We had a good lunch at the Ugli restaurant on KP (that’s what everyone calls Komsomolskaya Square): the moose cutlet with honeysuckle, as well as the fried fern, were incomparable!

Intercity public transport turned out to be very expensive! The bus from Yelizovo to Termalny for 75 rubles did not really surprise us, but the bus from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to Malka for 525 rubles for 130 kilometers made us think... However, on the first day we found out for ourselves that in Kamchatka there is excellent hitchhiking on the roads of any quality, and communication with local residents greatly enriches the Kamchatka experience, so the idea of ​​traveling by bus was abandoned for a combination of reasons. Thanks to hitchhiking, we met very interesting people, as with simple Kamchadals who are afraid of bears and do not go beyond their borders settlement or vehicle, and with lovers of active outdoor recreation, racing around the peninsula on snowmobiles, motorcycles and even trikes. And, of course, each of them had their own bear story!

We had accommodation in Kamchatka with us, and we spent the first 9 nights comfortably in our tents.

Hotel prices in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky are inhumane, but it is very easy to rent a daily apartment - we have our studio apartment with a fresh renovation, modern interior, ideal cleanliness and a set of absolutely everything you might need for normal life, at a price of 1800 rubles per day (easily and comfortably accommodates four) we were very pleased!

Independent travel around Kamchatka

Traveling around Kamchatka on your own with some preparation at home turned out to be incredibly easy. There are reports and GPS tracks of independent tourists posted on the Internet, which are good to have for reference on the ground. Once again, the free offline MapsWithMe map turned out to be very useful, on which most of the trails, hot springs, and waterfalls were marked. Near Gorely, Mutnovsky, at the Dachny and Nizhne-Vilyuchinsky springs, we set up tents in places clearly intended for these purposes - somewhere nearby there were groups of organized tourists, in other places we were alone, but there were fireplaces and even benches.

Wherever there is something going on, you can hitch a ride, and even shift workers with organized tourists give rides.

In terms of information, the Modern Guide to Kamchatka, published by the local visitor center, turned out to be valuable - you can ask for this book at the visitor center in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on Lenin Street and get it for free! It’s a pity that I acquired this book only at the end of the trip, but it will clearly prove extremely useful in preparing for the next one.

What to take with you on a hike in Kamchatka?

In summer in Kamchatka, anything can come in handy - from a light down jacket to a swimsuit! So you need to take clothes for any weather: a swimsuit/swimming trunks for hot springs, thermal underwear (at least a top) for comfortable transitions to weather conditions, changing from cold to warm, synthetic sweaters with long sleeves so as not to get burned under the scorching sun, a raincoat and trousers from the rain, lightweight warming fleeces, a windbreaker.

A rain cover for a backpack or a waterproof bag inside a backpack - it will be very useful during fords, so as not to be afraid of getting things inside the backpack wet.

Direly needed big glasses from the sun, since long treks through the snow under the scorching sun can turn any beautiful day into hell. Sunscreen and lip balm with a high sun protection factor, as you get sunburned very easily in the mountains. Panama.

Trekking poles make the ascents and descents very easy, as well as fording rivers.

In addition to comfortable, worn-in shoes (preferably waterproof, but this will not help if you constantly walk in wet snow), sandals for wading rivers will not hurt.

We took down sleeping bags, so we slept softly and warmly everywhere. The guys came with thermal rests, I got by with foam just fine.

A mosquito net was very important - there were a lot of mosquitoes almost everywhere!

Flashlight. Seat.

Bear protection! You can use horns (we bought them at Sportmaster), fan pipes (they are inconvenient because you have to blow them, which is difficult during long marches, it is better to buy horns in the shape of a pear, which you can easily crush in your hand), whistles. On site in Yelizovo you need to buy flares - a pulled pin produces a green or red flame 20 cm long for 30 seconds, which will help when meeting a bear face to face.

I read somewhere that vinegar helps against animals, including bears, so we took 0.3 liters with us and sprinkled the area around the tent in particularly bear-prone areas.

Fleece gloves and a hat were not useful - there was no cold anywhere, although near Gorely and Mutnovsky immediately after sunset it became noticeably colder, and the hood of a windbreaker was in demand.

Travel layout. Nutrition

We brought all the food with us to Kamchatka from Moscow.

At first there was an idea to buy freeze-dried ready-made meals from the Gala-Gala company, well-known in hiking circles, but the tasting did not impress us - one dish was too salty, the second smelled like chicken droppings. So we took cereals (buckwheat, rice, lentils, millet, oatmeal), pasta, dry mashed potatoes, biscuits, sausage, lard, dried pork and chicken (freeze-dried meat) in the oven, took dry Podtravka soups, to which we added dried carrots and onions from Auchan. For sweets and snacks, we had hazelnuts, raisins, dried apricots, halva, sherbet, kozinaki and Alenka chocolate. Plus green and black tea, sugar. We ate deliciously, no one went hungry, and in the end I didn’t lose a single kilo, although the increased nutrition in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky during the last three days of the trip may have had an effect.

Most of the food items were packed in plastic bottles for milk and Shishkin Les water and in liter paper bags for milk and kefir.

The layout was based on 700 grams of dry product per person per day. As a result, at the start everyone had 8 kg. food. Seryoga and I’s backpacks in Sheremetyevo weighed 20 kilos each, our two traveling companions weighed 25 kilos each, but it all also depends on how much extra unnecessary crap someone took as personal belongings))

Since immediately after arrival we wanted to go to the Gorely volcano, and Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky was slightly out of the way, I was tormented by the question of whether it was possible to buy gas and flares in Yelizovo. I have not found the answer to this simple question on the Internet. Elizovo, where the airport is located, seemed like a village to me, but it turned out that it is one of three full-fledged and self-sufficient cities in Kamchatka, where there is absolutely everything. Right next to the bus station there are many tourist, hunting and fishing shops where you can buy gas and flares. Plus, there is a market with red caviar and fish nearby)) So, going to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to purchase what you need to buy in Kamchatka, since you can’t bring it from Moscow, is absolutely not necessary - everything you need can be bought in Yelizovo and immediately move out at least near Gorely, or near Avachinsky, or even to the north, which is much more convenient to do from Yelizovo!

Kamchatka - the land of bears, volcanoes and red caviar can be useful to everyone who loves wildlife, but for some reason I haven’t been to Kamchatka yet. We were lucky enough to visit here in the summer. The choice may seem unusual - as a rule, it is customary to go on vacation to the sea, abroad, to Europe; it is rare that young people prefer the harsh peninsula to them. But we took a risk and never regretted it.


Why Kamchatka? Since my husband did not have a passport at that time, there was little choice for his long-awaited vacation. We started planning it in advance, but lost our minds thinking about where to go. We wanted to have a truly unforgettable vacation. Chance itself helped here: my colleague, a former flight attendant, for several days in a row recalled with nostalgia her flights to Kamchatka, the beauty of this wild region. And I gave up, looked at the photo on the Internet and was stunned. In addition, the vacation fell in August, the most favorable month for visiting Kamchatka. How can such beauty leave one indifferent?


The choice has been made! At first I couldn’t believe that we would fly there! After all, Kamchatka is so far away, and I rarely see tours to Kamchatka on the Internet. It soon became clear why: traveling around Russia is not cheap, but to Kamchatka it’s not like that at all... I looked at the offers of travel agencies and was dissatisfied: a week-long tour without air travel cost 50 thousand, and the second day of the tour was “free” - a flight to the Valley of Geysers was supposed to cost 32 thousand for one (which, as you understand, was also not included in the price). Based on all this, I decided to do the tour myself.


Since we began preparing for our long-awaited trip back in March, we had to buy tickets right away, which were selling like hot cakes. The prices were impressive: a direct flight cost 40 thousand rubles per person, and with a multi-hour transfer - 33 thousand. The difference is small, so we took two direct ones. After reading reviews from experienced Kamchatka explorers, I realized that independent “wild” tourism is not an option. Still, bears, glaciers (despite summer)... somehow uneasy. I found a travel agency in Petropavlovsk itself that organized excursions around Kamchatka. What struck me was the attitude of the manager Olga, who gave purely human advice on how to get there and where to stay with less loss on your wallet.


So, on August 5, our long-awaited trip finally arrived: we flew from Sheremetyevo to the airport in Yelizovo. We flew for 7 hours, the flight was quite difficult, we didn’t manage to sleep. Upon arrival, we found a bus near the exit from the airport that goes to the center of Petropavlovsk, as Olga advised. 40 rubles and you're in the city! (instead of 3 thousand that taxi drivers will ask you for and 7 thousand for an airport-hotel-airport transfer from a travel agency). Things are also not easy with hotels in the city: the prices are astronomical! Therefore, for the entire period of accommodation, we rented a 1-room apartment not far from the travel agency - the starting point of all excursions.


On the very first day we decided not to waste time and went to an individual sightseeing tour in Petropavlovsk, one of the oldest cities in the Far East. The city was named after two ships of the Second Kamchatka Expedition, “St. Apostle Peter” and “St. Apostle Paul.” (Since we really love history, especially Russia, historical facts will periodically appear in posts).


The city has many historical places and monuments (monument dead sailors, a monument to La Perouse, Clark, the founder of the city - Vitus Bering... you can’t count everything). Most of all, our attention was attracted by the Maksutov Battery, which defended the city during the Crimean War of 1853-56. About what Crimean War It was not only in Crimea, but also in Kamchatka, not many people know, and almost no one in continental Russia knows about the hero of Petropavlovsk, Prince Dmitry Maksutov. And for local residents, the name Maksutov personifies the glory and valor of Russian weapons. Maksutov led the battery on the slope of Nikolskaya Hill, which heroically resisted the artillery of the Anglo-French squadron. In memory of this, a memorial to Maksutov’s battery was erected on the slope of Nikolskaya Sopka and the shore of Avachinskaya Bay.


Having got an idea of ​​the city, we went to Khalaktyrsky beach, almost to the shore of the Pacific Ocean. The beach is unique for its black sand, which received this color due to volcanic eruptions. On next morning we went to Paratunka - a resort village famous for its thermal waters, 70 km from Petropavlovsk. There are many recreation centers and sanatoriums in the village, we chose one and thoroughly enjoyed the hot thermal waters coming from the depths of the earth. This was especially true in cloudy, cool weather.


I would like to especially note the prices in Kamchatka. They are quite different from continental ones: quite high, especially for food. As for the population, in my opinion, the residents of Kamchata are quite responsive and friendly: they will tell you everything, show you everything, give you advice. They at least drive crossovers, since the harsh climate does not allow otherwise. Having bought local delicacies - red caviar and fish - after an exciting independent walk around the city we went to our temporary “home” to prepare for next day, which promises a lot of interesting things.


On the third day we planned to visit Kamchatka waterfalls and natural thermal springs. The morning started early, my husband and I arrived at the collection point and saw our transport. It was a real SUV, “pumped up” to the harsh reality of Kamchata. Our guide for this day was a young, energetic Pasha, who truly loved his small homeland. Our companions turned out to be two mature women who found time to see their native land in between sitting with their grandchildren. So, having received huge bags of provisions from Olga, we took our places and hit the road. The weather was quite cool, and knowing that we would go to the mountains, we warmed up to the fullest. Having left the city and turning off the highway, Pasha stopped near a small mountain stream. While we were admiring the beauty of Kamchatka, he began to lower the wheels of the car. We understood: now we will see all the charm of the region with our own eyes! Volcanoes!!!


But due to the dense fog, the volcanoes were not visible. But Pasha immediately warned about the danger of the heather bushes, in which not only could there be bears, but also in which many people could get lost. After several hours of driving, the fog allowed us to see the volcano, at the foot of which we decided to take a break and have a snack.Amazingly, the ground below us was very warm: the heat came from the volcano, so there were a lot of blueberries and incredibly beautiful flowers growing on the slope (unfortunately, I don’t know their names). A stunning picture: below everything is blooming and fragrant, and above there is snow!


On the way to the waterfall we got stuck. It turns out that such cars also get stuck! A very fresh trace of a bear. I felt somehow uneasy. Fortunately, having dealt with the car very quickly, we moved further and saw the “Veronica’s Braids” waterfall. Indeed, it’s as if you are seeing the girl’s profile carved into the rock by water. Next, natural thermal springs awaited us. Yes, we have already been to Paratunka, but everything there is equipped by humans, special pools have been made, and here there is a natural “bath” with hot water. Unusual, of course. So many impressions.


But still, after reading various forums, one thing was missing: to see bears! Real live bears, about which everyone writes so much. Somewhere on the hill we met a group of tourists who simply rushed past us and reported an approaching bear. But he never showed up. And now the day was coming to an end, we were driving back, and the animal still did not appear. And now, we are finally lucky! On the way home, we finally saw a mother bear and a bear cub going to a watering hole.


Night was coming, we were already sleeping in the car, because tomorrow there were still a lot of interesting things waiting for us! Namely, rafting on the Avacha River! This was our first experience of such an extreme holiday, but when, if not now? It took us about three hours to get to the base - a transit point, where we had to drink tea, have a snack, and listen to instructions. Everything was very serious, and our instructors didn’t smile much. Eh, it was there, it wasn’t, there’s nowhere to retreat.


We were provided with high rubber boots, life jackets, rubber suits and we swam. There were 8 of us, the men rowed, and we - women and children - admired the beauty of the "Aquarium" - natural area along Avachi. The descent was not difficult, but from time to time it was breathtaking, we were jumping on the waves, but I still managed to take pictures.


It seemed that the rafting flew by in an instant: now we are already cooking fish soup and setting the table. It's strange, the company is completely strangers, living in different parts of Russia, and some in another country (among us there was a Pole who worked at Castorama, who brought his son to our country to show the beauty), but we sat and talked so heartily. It is unlikely that life will bring us together again, but at that moment we were like one friendly family.


How can you imagine Kamchatka without the Pacific Ocean? That's right, no way. So, our next route ran precisely to the Pacific Ocean, Starichkov Island and the Three Brothers. And again we caught fish, fried it immediately on the yacht and admired the beauty of the ocean. The most famous are the three rocks protruding from the water, called the “Three Brothers”. According to legend, three brothers defended the peninsula from huge wave and turned to stone. Since then, they have stood guard over the city for centuries. Three brothers are a kind of symbol of Petropavlovsk and Avacha Bay. We sat on the deck and enjoyed the sea air, while volcanoes and hills “floated” past us. At that moment we felt some kind of unity with the nature around us!


For the last two days we planned to climb the Mutnovsky and Gorely volcanoes. Also a new experience for us. It took us quite a long time to climb Mutnovsky large group. We met Pasha again and met his colleague Dima. The guys are experienced, you can see right away. While we were driving to the volcanoes, they demonstrated this more than once. Glaciers are very dangerous and should not be trifled with. On the way, we came across a bus that was half submerged under water. I hope no one was hurt. Therefore, we moved slowly, trail after trail.


When we arrived at the foot of Mutnovsky, we were again instructed. Despite their sense of humor and smiles, the guys spoke without any jokes about necessary measures security. And for good reason. At one time, a group of researchers came here and one young guy came too close to the crater and was boiled alive in the fumaroles. It’s hard to believe it when you don’t see or hear the smell and seething of fumaroles, when you don’t realize that they are there, under you, and can break out to the surface at any moment. The fumaroles smell of sulfur, the smell is so strong that it hurts the eyes. To somehow alleviate our plight, we were given medical bandages.


Meanwhile, we split up: some stayed, while others went higher, to another crater. Despite the fatigue, we decided not to lag behind. It was not easy: the sneakers slid on the snow, the path went higher and higher, and at the last stage of the route we had to climb a rope ladder. But what we saw later was worth it! The long-awaited dinner was already waiting for us below, and the next day there was a volcano again! oh, it’s not easy to climb volcanoes for two days. Moreover, we were warned that today’s Mutnovsky is not as difficult as Gorely, which we are going to tomorrow!


Mentally, I dreamed that this excursion would not take place))) Unprepared and inexperienced, two volcanoes are not an easy test. The next morning a miracle happened: Olga called us and said that the group had not met. Apparently, these were those who climbed Mutnovsky and were unable to scrape themselves out of bed in the morning. So, it was our last day in Kamchatka. We went with Dima, whom we already knew, to the foot of the Avachinsky volcano, to feed the famous eurasians and finally admire the landscape from a bird's eye view! This is the tour we had around the marvelous Kamchatka region. Of course, we brought a lot of goodies: red caviar and fish, because there they are 2 times cheaper and five times tastier.


These were unforgettable days, full of impressions and emotions. Kamchatka is very different! In addition to amazing nature, there are many historical places here. We know so little about this peninsula, yet it is our important strategic outpost. Travel around our country, it is magnificent and rich in attractions. I won’t hide that our tour was not economical, as a friend said, for this money you can have a good rest at an expensive resort. As they say, taste and color! Some people enjoy lying in the sun all day long, while others come back from such a trip with sparkling eyes!

If fate, thirst for adventure or work necessity If you accidentally end up in Kamchatka, the easternmost outskirts of Russia, the locals strongly recommend:

1. Conquer the volcano

Without exaggeration, Kamchatka is famous throughout the world for its volcanoes. , or activity of the highest active volcano Eurasia - Klyuchevsky - was heard by millions of inhabitants of the planet. Hundreds of volcanoes “live” on the peninsula and, if you really want to, and have the appropriate preparation, you can visit any one you like.

The hit of this season can probably be called Plosky Tolbachik. Its famous eruption, which began in November 2012, attracts hundreds of tourists to the peninsula, who not only manage to fry kebabs on it.

The cost of visiting Kamchatka volcanoes varies. For example, you can climb Klyuchevskaya - they only take trained athletes there - for 30 thousand rubles. - and this is far from the limit. And you can visit Avacha for a few hundred rubles by getting to the outskirts of the volcano by commuter bus and continuing your journey on foot.

In any case, no matter which volcano you plan to visit, it is highly not recommended to go there without experienced guides. You need to take with you what your guide recommends - warm clothes, food, sunglasses, sunscreen, etc...

Moreover, when going to the volcano, register with the local search and rescue team - PSO. If any emergency situation, you can always count on the help of rescuers. The squad's phone number is 8 (415-2) 41-03-95.

By the way, among many Kamchatka residents it is customary to communicate with volcanoes - to ask permission from the giant to climb it and thank them for returning safely. No matter what they tell you, climbing any of the volcanoes will not be easy, but the conquered peak and the view from it will more than cover all the hardships of the journey.

2. Visit the Valley of Geysers

The Valley of Geysers, like many of the Kamchatka volcanoes, is known far beyond Russia. However, not everyone has been there...

The fact is that visiting one of the seven wonders of Russia hurts the pocket of the average resident of the country. A one-day helicopter excursion costs 25-39 thousand rubles. If you can afford such sums, fly without hesitation. The nature of the Valley of Geysers is unique. Its area, which is 6 square km, is densely populated with numerous geysers gushing directly from the ground, hot springs, bizarre mud pots, picturesque waterfalls and lakes...

3. Swim in the paratunka

The word “paratunka”, which is unusual for visitors to the peninsula, comes from a proper name (the name of the local village) and has long become a household word.

“Will you go to Paratunka?” - locals often ask visitors, and they only blink their eyes in surprise in response... But having been there, as a rule, they persuade them to take them there again...

Paratunka are pools with hot water that flows directly from the ground, located under open air. They bathe in such springs all year round. Last winter, during the Epiphany frosts, I had the opportunity to take a tourist from Krasnodar to one of these places.

What is this?! Climbing there at minus 20?! Are you crazy? Take me back,” the young man was indignant.

Having persuaded the guy to get into the water, we couldn’t get him out of there for a good half hour... It’s not cold to soak in the hot thermal water even at minus 40...

By the way, staying in such sources for a long time is harmful to health. Therapeutic “baths” are good in small quantities - 10-20 minutes each. Popular among tourists are both human-equipped thermal baths - with comfortable swimming pools, cafes, sun loungers and changing rooms - and completely wild natural puddles...

4. Go fishing in Kamchatka!

Perhaps every second man and even many women are interested in fishing in Kamchatka. In the region they catch sockeye salmon, chinook salmon, chum salmon, halibut, flounder, smelt, greenling and many, many other species of fish. Fishing here can be done in the seas, rivers and lakes. Some of the caught prey cook fish soup, while others take a photo with the trophy and immediately release it into the wild.

According to fishermen, sitting on the shore picturesque river surrounded by gray volcanoes and catching a 20-kilogram Chinook salmon is a pleasure that cannot be put into words...

5. Try local caviar!

A favorite delicacy of many, red caviar, is sold today throughout Russia. But it is mined mainly in the Far East. Kamchatka is no exception. Residents of the peninsula believe that ours, Kamchatka, is the most special and the most delicious caviar.

True, you shouldn’t count on the fact that you can eat it here with spoons. - golden. But we still recommend it - it’s too good! A fresh slice of white bread, buttered and topped with caviar is one of the best breakfasts in the world! Where to buy caviar and where not, ask the locals.

6. Ride... dogs!

Dog sledding is a traditional Kamchatka winter activity. Laikas, husoks, and malamutes are harnessed to sleighs called sledges. They are driven by an experienced driver - a musher. To perceive this kind of entertainment as cruelty to animals is wrong. Sled dogs are unusually hardy and such walks are a joy for them.

Every year it takes place in Kamchatka. Its four-legged participants cover almost a thousand km on their way.

If you want to “ride” a dog, then an unusual one-day “excursion” will cost you 2-4 thousand rubles.

7. Master skiing and snowboarding

Even if you are not a sporty person at all, and the word “extreme” makes your knees shake and your head spin, we still recommend trying at least one of these sports. Many people ski in Kamchatka, and at any time of the year. The youngest athletes are barely three years old, and the oldest are well over 80. You can ski on boards or skis both on equipped bases and on wild slopes. At the first, for the convenience of beginners, there are always trainers who will teach you the basics of extreme sports for a reasonable fee. By the way, their role can be performed by experienced athletes - completely free of charge. All .

The so-called heli-skiing is also popular in Kamchatka - here athletes are thrown by helicopter onto the wild slopes. True, such a sport is available either to wealthy people or to those who know how to save money well. A day of skiing will cost you several tens of thousands of rubles.

8. Get acquainted with the culture of the indigenous people of the peninsula

The indigenous population of Kamchatka are by no means Russians. From time immemorial, Koryaks, Itelmens, Evens, Aleuts, Chukchis lived here... Now the number of these peoples, unfortunately, is rapidly falling, many traditions are being forgotten. But meeting representatives of these small nationalities is unlikely to leave you indifferent. Shamanic rituals, unusual outfits made of fur and animal skins, throat singing, playing tambourines, rituals and legends, ethnic dances - all this will allow you to travel back in time and plunge into a completely different Kamchatka - mystical and completely unknown.

Tourists are happy to come to the national Kamchatka holidays - Alkhalalai, and also visit ethnic villages and camps.

9. Swim in the Pacific Ocean

The Pacific Ocean, sometimes roaring wildly, sometimes splashing playfully, sometimes mysteriously silent, is a mesmerizing sight in itself. Not everyone dares to swim in it - the water is not at all warm even in summer. Therefore, if getting into cold water is a dubious pleasure for you, walk barefoot on the unusual black ocean sand, breathe in the fresh salty air and be sure to watch the sunrise or admire the sunset here. You definitely won't regret it!

10. Fall in love with the peninsula

They say that anyone who has visited Kamchatka at least once will never forget it: some adore the peninsula with all their hearts, others remember it like a bad dream.

But if you love wild, untouched nature, and yours, you will probably fall in love forever and madly with this strange, not understandable to everyone and, perhaps,...