High shutter speed settings on Nikon 5100. What is shutter speed and why is it needed: getting to know the concept of shutter speed

If you bought your first SLR, mirrorless or any other camera that supports the so-called manual settings, then our article today will definitely be useful to you. So, today we’ll talk about the three main shooting parameters – shutter speed, aperture and ISO.

What is a camera aperture?

Photography is light painting. Therefore, both aperture and shutter speed affect the amount of light that enters the sensor after pressing the shutter button.
Aperture is one of the main shooting parameters. Strictly speaking, aperture is a parameter that relates not to the camera itself (body), but to the lens. Therefore, it would be more correct to ask, what is a lens aperture?

So, lens aperture is a mechanical adjustment that allows you to adjust the amount of light passing through the lens. Roughly speaking, the aperture is the hole through which light passes. If you dig deeper, you can find out that the lens aperture is several blades that change their position, thereby reducing or increasing the hole through which light passes.


What do you need to take away from this first? First, the larger the hole, the more light passes through the lens. Secondly, you also need to know that the LESS aperture number, the wider the “hole” is open, which means BIGGER the aperture. Thus, on modern lenses, the maximum aperture opening is achieved at f/1.2 and f/1.4. Even higher apertures, like f/1.0 and f/0.95, are available on expensive exclusive glasses, which even professionals usually don’t use.

So, let's take a couple of specific lenses as an example. Let's say Nikon 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G and Nikon 50mm f/1.4D. Their maximum aperture is indicated in the name. For the first lens it is f/3.5 at 18mm and f/5.6 at 105mm, for the second it is f/1.4. This option is also called aperture ratio. Please note that only the maximum aperture ratio is indicated. Cover the aperture up to values ​​like f/7.1, f/11 is possible on any lens. The extreme value is usually f/22 for zooms (18-105mm) and f/16 for fixed lenses (50mm). We talked about zooms and primes in a separate article.

What is shutter speed in a camera?

Just like aperture, shutter speed affects the amount of light that ultimately hits the camera sensor (or film). If the aperture regulates the amount of light using the diameter of the hole in the lens, then shutter speed is a parameter of the camera itself.

Excerpt- this is the time during which light exposes the light-sensitive element, which today is the camera matrix. Shutter speed is measured in fractions of a second. For example, 1/60, 1/800. The shutter speed can be longer than a second, usually it is designated 1’’ (1 second), 10’’ (10 seconds), etc. At shutter speeds shorter than a second, the unit may be omitted for convenience, and thus the shutter speed may be designated as 60, 800, etc.

What is ISO in a camera?

Currently ISO– this is the photosensitivity of the camera matrix. This is the third parameter that can affect the exposure of a photo. Basic ISO on modern cameras is 100-200 units. The maximum can be ISO 6400, 12800 and more. The physically larger and better the camera matrix, the greater the ISO capabilities.

In general, roughly speaking, ISO is the parameter that affects noise picture. The higher the ISO, the more so-called noise there is in the photo. Accordingly, low-noise matrices are highly valued today, because they allow you to shoot at bad conditions hand-held illumination and get good pictures. Here are the cameras that currently lead in ISO performance: Sony A7s, Nikon D800e, Nikon D800, Nikon Df, Nikon D4s, Nikon D4, Nikon D600, Nikon D610. As you can see, Nikon cameras, which mostly have Sony matrices, cope best with noise so far. This is such a paradox. However, the leader is still the Sony A7s, which at the time of writing this article had just appeared.

This photo was taken at ISO 900. Below are enlarged fragments (crops) of this frame at different ISOs. Enlarged right upper part candlestick

How to work with shutter speed, aperture and ISO

We looked at three parameters that affect the exposure of a photo. Now let's figure out how these parameters interact with each other and what each of them affects.

So, let’s assume that we are in conditions where ISO 400, aperture f/4 and shutter speed 1/400 give us an ideal exposure, which we will denote as 0. But then a source of additional light appeared (the sun came out, an additional illuminator was installed, etc. .). The exposure from 0 shifts towards +, say, by 1 stop (the frame becomes lighter, "overexposure"). What is one stop and how can we make the frame a little darker so that there is no overexposure? Roughly speaking, for ISO and shutter speed 1 stop– this is an increase or decrease in value by 2 times. For aperture 1.4 times. So to darken the frame we have the following options:

1. Reduce ISO from 400 to 200.
2. Reduce shutter speed from 1/400 to 1/800.
3. Close the aperture from f/4 to f/5.6

Now let's see what this will ultimately affect:

1. The amount of noise in the frame will decrease.
2. There will be practically no changes.
3. The sharpness area will increase and blur (bokeh) will decrease.

Thus, if we are shooting a portrait, then the first option is best for us, because there will be less noise. If we shoot a landscape, then again, good decision will choose the first option, but the third option under certain conditions can improve the picture (it will become sharper). If we are shooting sports, then the second option will be preferable, since the shorter the shutter speed, the easier it is to catch the movement.

How to work with basic shooting parameters in real life

What we described above can be used when taking photographs, working with all the parameters manually. That is, set the camera to manual mode (M) and monitor each parameter. Now I’ll tell you a secret. Most even professional photographers do not shoot in manual mode.

Every camera that supports manual settings has shutter priority and aperture priority modes. We talked about this in the article “How to take photographs with a SLR camera.”

Aperture priority mode allows you to control only the aperture, and leave the shutter speed to the camera’s automation. Shutter priority mode works in a similar way, only in it you are responsible for exposure.

Add to this the excellent Auto ISO system in modern cameras, which selects light sensitivity based on a specific situation, and it turns out that you control only 1 selected parameter.

Nikon mode dial: M - manual, A - aperture priority, S - shutter priority

For example, you select aperture priority to shoot a portrait in sunny day. Set the aperture to 2.8. Automation selects the required shutter speed, and ISO in such conditions is set to 100 units (that is, to the minimum value). In general, the camera always tries to set it to the minimum possible meaning photosensitivity. Thus, you get, for example, an aperture of f/2.8 (which you set), a shutter speed of 1/1600 and ISO 100 (these two values ​​were selected automatically). If the resulting frame turns out to be too light or, conversely, too dark, you can influence the exposure directly by increasing or decreasing its value. How one exposure level affects changes in parameters is written above. If aperture priority mode is selected, changing the exposure by 1 stop plus will force the automatic system to reduce the shutter speed to 1/800 to make the frame brighter. IN in this case Our aperture value is a constant, and exposure changes only due to two parameters, ISO and shutter speed. By the way, please note that the exposure step in modern cameras is usually set to 1/3 stop. That is, it usually looks like this: 0, +1/3, +2/3, +1, etc. A change of 1/3 will reduce the shutter speed not to 1/800, but to 1/1250.

Thus, aperture priority mode allows you to concentrate on only one parameter and not be distracted by others. At the same time, the photographer controls exactly the parameter that interests him. With shutter priority mode everything is approximately the same, however, based on personal experience, I can say that it is usually less in demand.

Conclusions

As you already understood, figuring out all these settings is not so difficult. In one article, I basically tried to explain in layman’s terms what parameters affect what. You just need to read about it once, and then play a little with your camera settings and see what happens when you change this or that parameter. I hope this article helped you understand a little better how your camera works. See you soon and successful shots!

So I got to the night tests.

The first attempts to take night photographs were made at the beginning of this month, however, as practice has shown, you cannot do this without a tripod.

No attempts to fix the camera using improvised means desired results if they didn’t bring it, the horizon would “collapse” or the camera would shake. In general, the result was nothing but nonsense, however... even in blurry and unclear photographs, the great potential of the DSLR was noticeable, which was expressed in fairly decent color rendition and a reduced (compared to digital point-and-shoot cameras) noise level.

And yesterday I came across (borrowed) this tripod.

On the same day it was decided to try Nikon D5100 at long shutter speeds, and the longest shutter speeds are needed, of course, at night :)

A loggia was chosen as the location for the shooting; I didn’t bother with it for the first time. As soon as it got dark I started testing.

To be honest, I wanted to take a couple of shots immediately after sunset, but due to the bustle of the house I missed this moment and came to my senses around 22-00, when there was no longer any “smell” of the sun.

To avoid unnecessary noise, the ISO was set to 200 in all images.

1. In the first photo, the camera lens was aimed at the house of the neighboring, fourth, microdistrict. The photo was taken completely automatically.

The photo turned out to be a little underexposed, and in general, the fully automatic mode tends to make mistakes in difficult shooting conditions. Therefore, I use it less and less.

Currently, when shooting, I most often use the semi-automatic mode, which allows me to set the value of the shutter speed-aperture pair.

Very convenient, especially when you need to experiment a little with exposure values.

2. This photo was taken with a shutter speed of 25 seconds at a focal length of 55mm, with the aperture set to f/5.6.

The darkened areas “appeared”, and a car driving along the road added a little dynamics to the photo.

3. Evening summer cafe (visible between the trees in the previous photo). Shooting parameters: focal length F=260 mm, shutter speed 30 seconds, aperture f/8. It was the aperture that was given priority in this frame, its value gradually decreased until the shutter speed reached the maximum possible in this mode value of 30 seconds. Further decreasing the aperture value (to increase the depth of field) would result in a darker image.

The parameters were left the same as in the previous picture. It is possible that increasing the ISO sensitivity value would lead to some improvements, but no other attempts were made to photograph this “landscape” :)

5. The entrance to the house is opposite. Shooting parameters: shutter speed 30 seconds, focal length F=200 mm, aperture f/7.1

6. Parking in front of the house. Shooting parameters: focal length F=140 mm, shutter speed 25 seconds, aperture f/9.

At this point the experiments were completed.

To be continued…

Hello friends! Andrey Sheremetyev is with you, and in this article we will talk about camera shutter speed. You will learn how to set it up, how to use it, and how to significantly reduce the number of defective frames.

• What is shutter speed
• How is shutter speed measured and how is it designated?
• Short and long exposures, why photographs are “blurry”
• “Shevelenka” Dependence of shutter speed on focal length lens
• How to adjust shutter speed

So, pick up a camera, and while studying the article, practice. Let's begin.

Shutter speed is one of the main parameters that influences how a photograph turns out. Together with “ ”, it determines whether the photo will be light or dark, whether the object in the photo will be sharp or blurry. But first things first.

What is endurance?

Shutter speed is the time for which the camera shutter opens to let a beam of light pass through the lens onto the photosensitive element - the matrix. SLR and some mirrorless cameras have a mechanical shutter, which is a sliding curtain that opens for a given exposure time. In simpler digital compacts, this mechanism is not present. Shutter speed in digital compacts or point-and-shoot cameras is the time the camera matrix is ​​turned on in order to capture the image from the lens.

Shutter and aperture of a SLR camera.
SLR camera design

What is it measured in and how is it designated? excerpt?

Since shutter speed is time, it is measured in seconds and fractions of a second, for example, if the shutter speed is less than a second, then it is designated as follows: 1/60, 1/100, 1/250, 1/1000. This is nothing more than a mathematical fraction, and it is very important to remember - the larger the denominator, the shorter the shutter speed, which means the shutter will let in less light. For example, a shutter speed of 1/250 second is shorter than 1/60 second. Shutter speeds longer than one second are designated as follows: 2”, 5”, 10” (2 sec, 5 sec, 10 sec, respectively). On SLR cameras we can find both a fractional image of the shutter speed (1/x) and a designation of only the denominator (x), this is the same value.

Fractional shutter speed designation (shutter speed 1/30 second)
Denominator only (shutter speed 1/4000 second)

To understand what shutter speed we have set, it is very important to pay attention to the 2 lines next to the number (“), I repeat, if they are there, it means the shutter speed is more than one second, if not, it means less and we have a shutter speed of the format 1/your number.

Another example: if you changed the shutter speed from 1/100 to 1/125, you decreased the shutter speed; if you changed from 1/250 to 1/200, you increased the shutter speed.

We will talk about what shutter speeds and what to shoot next.

Photos too dark and too light, what are the reasons?

Now let's talk about why photographs turn out too dark or too light. This is a topic for a separate article, because... Most beginners in the first stages of mastering a camera encounter problems with underexposure or overexposure (underexposed or overexposed photographs). In short, the lighting in photography is affected by 3 parameters - shutter speed, aperture, and matrix sensitivity (ISO, ISO). Now we will talk about shutter speed, i.e. how, when it changes, the illumination changes if the other 2 parameters (aperture and ISO) do not change.

Everything is simple here: If the photo is too dark, it means that not enough light is reaching the matrix, and that means our shutter speed is set too fast.

If the photo is too light, then on the contrary, the shutter speed is set too long, and you need to reduce it.

How does this happen? Photos like this can happen when you shoot in automatic or program shooting modes, when the camera automation selects all the settings for you and makes mistakes, the automation is still not a person. This can also happen when the exposure (light) metering sensor does not correctly determine the overall illumination of the frame; this happens if, for example, there is a bright light source in the frame.

Short and long exposures, why are photographs “blurry”?

In addition to illumination, shutter speed also affects the image itself and the objects in it. These properties are often used as an artistic element. A very telling example is when fast-moving objects turn out blurry. Using shutter speed, you can also “freeze” fast-moving objects, for example, a drop of water in the air, a bird in flight.

Here are examples:

“Frozen” movement of the wings, shot at a fast shutter speed.

By the way, when I was writing this article, news came that I won a photo competition SAILING PHOTO AWARDS 2014, in the “Landscape of the Season” category! The photo was taken with a long shutter speed (about 2 seconds), due to which the moving background was blurred (because the yacht was moving at a certain speed), while stationary objects (the yacht itself) remained sharp.

SAILING PHOTO AWARDS 2014 - “Landscape of the Season”

So, let's remember:

Short shutter speeds are needed to “freeze” fast moving objects (race cars, birds, drops, children, etc.)

Long shutter speeds are needed to blur moving objects, such as water in a river or passing cars.

If you get blurry shots, then you need to reduce the shutter speed. Its meaning must be selected based on the specific situation and lighting,

“Shvelenka” and the dependence of shutter speed on the focal length of the lens

Due to the fact that you and I are not robots, so-called “shake” often occurs - a slight blurring of the photo due to the shaking of the hand, the surface on which you are standing, or the wind. To avoid this you need in the right way choose exposure.

There is a recommendation that for a camera with a full-frame matrix, the minimum allowable shutter speed for handheld shooting should be no less than the focal length at which you are shooting. For example, if you have a 70-300mm lens, then when shooting with maximum zoom (i.e. 300mm), the minimum shutter speed should be at least 1/300s, when shooting at 70mm - 1/70s.

On crop mantrits (these are all amateur Kenon and Nikon cameras), the formula is as follows:

your focal length (FL), multiplied by the crop factor (1.5 for Nikon, 1.6 for Kenon)

For Canon: FR x 1.6

But here it is important to say that everything is very individual, some may have their hands shaking in anticipation of a photo of a masterpiece, others, on the contrary, are like a rock, therefore, the above is of a recommendatory nature, it is just important that you know what the movement is, where it comes from it comes, and what to do with it. Take your camera, shoot at different settings different stories, analyze the result and you will understand everything.

How to adjust shutter speed?

Finally we come to the main thing, to practice. You can adjust the shutter speed only in the semi-automatic shutter priority mode (indicated as “S” on Nikon and “Tv” on Canon) and in the manual “M” mode. In other modes it is selected automatically. What kind of modes are these? Shooting mode “M” is a mode with completely manual settings, i.e. You set the shutter speed, aperture and ISO yourself. Shutter priority mode “S” or “Tv” is a mode where you set only shutter speed and ISO; the camera’s automatic aperture selects itself based on the characteristics of your lens. I will tell you more about shooting modes in a separate article.

Now I propose to consolidate the material learned and do the following exercise:

1. Set the shooting mode “M” on the camera (to do this, turn the mode wheel until the white line aligns with the mode we need)
2. Take a test shot
3. Use the wheel to change the shutter speed value (ISO and aperture remain unchanged) and take a shot, change and take a shot, and look at the result, experiment.

If you don’t have a camera at hand, or are too lazy to take it out, this will help!

The essence of this exercise is to understand how shutter speed works, to find out what movement and lubrication are. Later, when you get similar shots, you will already know what’s going on.

So, we have dealt with one of the 3 most important parameters in photography. In order to receive nice photos you need to clearly know what all 3 influence, and be able to use them; for this, be sure to read the following articles. Andrey Sheremetyev was with you, successful shots!

The predecessor of the camera being tested, Nikon D5000, turned out to be very successful and popular, although it still had certain drawbacks. The D5100 is housed in a completely different case, so at first glance it seems that it is completely new product, and not just updating what already exists. However, there are not many innovations - the ability to shoot Full HD video, another screen, expansion mode dynamic range by gluing two frames with different exposures, as well as an updated display and a fundamentally different rotating screen mechanism. Whether the new product will be better or, perhaps, worse than its predecessor, we will try to find out.

General view

⇡ Technical characteristics declared by the manufacturer

Nikon D5100
Type	Digital Single Lens Reflex Camera
Lens mount	NikonF (with AF contacts)
Effective angle of view	Lens focal length magnification factor approximately 1.5 (Nikon DX format)
Matrix	23.6x15.6mm CMOS sensor
Total number of pixels (MP)	16,9
Effective pixels (MP)	16,2
Image Dimensions	4928x3264 (large); 3696x2448 (medium); 2464x1632 (small)
File formats	NEF (RAW): 14-bit compressed JPEG: JPEG-Baseline compatible with fine (approx. 1:4), regular (approx. 1:8) or low (approx. 1:16) compression, NEF (RAW)+JPEG: One photo recorded in both NEF (RAW) and JPEGJ formats PEG (Exif. Ver. 2.3), support DCF2.0, DPOF
Carriers	SD (Secure Digital), SDHC and SDXC memory cards
Viewfinder	Direct viewfinder with pentamirror Frame coverage approximately 95% Magnification 0.78x (50mm ƒ/1.4 lens, focused at infinity)
Mirror	Quick return type
Lens aperture	Instantaneous return type, electronically controlled
Gate	With electronic control and vertical movement of the lamellas
Exposure, s	1/4000-30 s with EC steps of 1/3 or 1/2; Freehand exposure; Long exposure
Continuous shooting	Up to 4 fps (manual focus, M or S mode, shutter speed 1/250 sec or less, all other settings set to default)
Metering method	Matrix, center-weighted, spot
Exposure compensation	-5EV to +5EV in steps of 1/3EV or 1/2EV
Exposure bracketing	3 shots in increments of 1/3EV or 1/2EV
White balance bracketing	3 in steps of 1
Active D-Lighting Bracketing	2 pictures
Sensitivity	ISO 100-6400 in 1/3 increments. Can be set to approximately 0.3, 0.7, 1 or 2 EV (ISO 25600 equivalent) at sensitivities above ISO 6400, available automatic control ISO sensitivity
Focusing	Nikon Multi-CAM 1000 touch-screen AF module with TTL phase detection, 11 focus points (including one cross-type sensor) and AF-assist illuminator (distance approximately 0.5-3 m)
Autofocus range	-1…19EV (ISO 100, at 20°С
Focus Modes	Single-servo (AF-S), Continuous-servo (AF-C), Auto-servo (AF-A), Predictive focus tracking activated automatically when focusing on a subject, Manual focus
Focus points	11
Focus area selection modes	Single-point AF, Dynamic AF, Auto-area AF, 3D tracking AF (11 points)
Flash control	TTL: i-TTL balanced fill-flash and i-TTL standard flash for digital SLR cameras Available with built-in flash and SB-900, SB-800, SB-700, SB-600 or SB-400 flash units (i-TTL balanced fill-flash available with matrix or center-weighted metering). Auto Iris: For SB-900 and SB-800 flash and CPU lens Non-TTL auto: Supports SB-900, SB-800, SB-80DX, SB-28DX, SB-28, SB-27 and SB-22S flashes Distance-priority manual flash: Available on SB-900, SB-800 and SB-700 flashes
Flash compensation	-3 — +1 in steps of 1/3 or 1/2 EV
White balance	Auto, incandescent, fluorescent (7 types), direct sunlight, flash, cloudy, shadow and manual preset; For all modes except manual preset, fine tuning is possible
Live View Mode	AF modes: face priority, wide area, normal area, subject tracking Autofocus: Contrast-detecting autofocus anywhere in the frame
Movie mode	Resolution: 1920x1080, 1280x720, 640x424 Format: MOV Compression: H.264/MPEG-4 Advanced Video Coding
Display	Rotatable with a diagonal of 7 cm, a resolution of 921 thousand dots
Interfaces	USB, analog audio/video output, HDMI, external microphone connector, external GPS module connector
Power supply	Li-ion battery EN-EL14
Dimensions, mm	128x97x79
Weight, g	510 (without battery, memory card and case cover)

⇡ Delivery set

In the camera box the user will find the following:

• Li-ion battery EN-EL14 (with protective cover);
• Charger MH-24;
• Belt AN-DC3;
• Audio/video cable EG-CP14;
• USB cable UC-E6;
• DK-5 eyepiece cover;
• Accessory shoe cover BS-1;
• Rubber eyecup DK-20;
• Protective cover BF-1B;
• CD with software ViewNX 2;
• User's Guide.

⇡ Appearance and ease of use

Most entry-level DSLRs, and even more so budget DSLRs from the same manufacturer, are often extremely similar to a first approximation - often updated cameras almost completely copy the previous model in appearance. However, in the case of the D5100 this is not entirely true: the camera is similar to the D5000, but differs huge variety. To begin with, there is a rotating display, which now opens not downwards, but to the side, which is much more convenient. Of course, due to changes in the design of the rotating mechanism, the keys also changed their location; a lever for switching to Live View mode appeared next to the shooting mode selector (in the D5000 a button was responsible for the switch), and a video key was also added. In general, the change in the position of the keys is so global that after the “five thousandth” you have to get used to it as if it were a completely different camera. The viewfinder eyecup has also changed, which, from a subjective point of view, has become much more convenient.

The case, as before, is made of thick, high-quality plastic with a rough surface that is not afraid of fingerprints or minor scratches. The front pad is rubber, not plastic, like in the D5000, so holding the camera in one hand is much more comfortable. There are no comments on the build quality - everything fits perfectly, and when trying to twist it, not a single sound could be squeezed out of the case.

Front view

In front there is a very powerful autofocus illuminator lamp, which, if necessary, can easily be used as a flashlight, an ejectable flash, a built-in monaural microphone, a lens lock button, an IR receiver window, as well as a Nikon F lens mount with a contact group consisting of seven pads.

Rear view

Viewfinder

At the back there is a rotating screen with two degrees of freedom (180 and 270 degrees). Above the display there is a menu key, a rear IR receiver, a viewfinder with a diopter adjuster, and a key to call up the menu for changing settings. To the right of the screen there is a control dial, an autofocus/exposure lock key, a button to switch to playback mode, a familiar four-way round key with an enter button in the center, and at the bottom edge there are keys for scaling images and a delete button. Traditionally for Nikon, there is no four-position key additional functions, so to change parameters, such as sensitivity, white balance settings, changing the metering mode or autofocus operating mode, you have to wander through the menu, which is not very convenient. Of course, there is one programmable Fn key, but it doesn’t really help.

Top view

On top there is a pair of metal ears for attaching the shoulder strap, a system speaker, a hot shoe, a massive round selector for selecting shooting modes, complemented by a lever for switching to Live View mode, a shutter key with a power lever, as well as buttons for video recording, calling up the menu for introducing exposure shift and displaying current settings.

Bottom view

Everything on the bottom is standard - a tripod mount connector and a battery compartment. Unlike the D5000, the battery in the camera we tested is held in place by a spring-loaded tab, which prevents it from falling out when the compartment is opened.

Left view

Connectors on the left side surface

On the left there is a flash eject button, which is also responsible for selecting its operating mode, a programmable button, a massive rubber door that hides the connectors for an external microphone, USB, A/V and HDMI cables, and the connector for an external GPS module.

Right view

On the right is only the memory card compartment, hidden by a plastic spring-loaded door.

In this mode, the camera allows you to set the shutter speed manually, after which it automatically selects the aperture value to obtain the optimal exposure. A fast shutter speed should be used to stop the movement of objects, and a long shutter speed should be used to blur it with tracking or shoot night-lit landscapes. To do this, set the mode dial to S and select a shutter speed by rotating the command dial. The shutter speed will be displayed in the information display and viewfinder. You can then focus and take the photo.

Aperture priority auto (A)

In aperture priority mode, the user selects its value, and the camera sets the shutter speed parameters that are optimal for the given conditions. A larger aperture and smaller f-number will help blur objects behind and in front of the in-focus subject. These settings are best used for portraits and background blur. Small apertures and large number f sharpen background and foreground details, ideal for landscape photography.

In order to start shooting in this mode, you need to turn the Nikon B3100 mode dial to position A. Then the camera prompts you to select an aperture, its value is displayed on the information screen. Rotate the control dial to select the desired aperture value, after which you can focus and take a photo.

Manual mode M

In this mode, the shutter speed and aperture values ​​are set by the photographer himself. The mode dial must be turned to position M, after which you should check the exposure indicator. If the lens is equipped with a built-in microprocessor, and the selected shutter speed is different from the automatic parameters, the exposure indicator will indicate whether the photo will be over- or underexposed. If the limits of the exposure meter's measuring system are exceeded, the indicator begins to blink. It can be seen on the camera's information screen as well as in the viewfinder.

In manual mode, you choose your own shutter speed values ​​ranging from 30 to 1/4000 seconds, you can also set the “bulb shutter speed” parameter, then the shutter will be open long time while its release button is held down. The aperture is set by pressing the button with its image and rotating the control dial. The aperture and shutter speed values ​​are displayed on the information screen and in the camera viewfinder.

Sources:

• Nikon 3100 DSLR instructions for use
• Nikon D 3100 how to take pictures correctly

Technologies are moving forward and, it seems, don’t even think about stopping. This also applies to photographic equipment. Manufacturers present new camera models - each more advanced than the other. Both beginners and professional photographers. But this does not change the rule that an artist must know his instrument 200%. Including everything technical parameters what his camera is capable of - aperture, light sensitivity, shutter speed...

You will need

• - camera;
• - many hours of practice.

Instructions

Put your camera in manual settings mode (usually indicated by the letter M on the wheel). Find in its settings the section where the shutter speed is adjusted. Shutter speed is the amount the shutter remains open at a given moment. Today the value can vary from 30 seconds to 1/8000. Experiment, change the shutter speed, take a photo of a moving subject and compare what the differences are. But the main thing is one very simple rule: the brighter the subject that you are going to photograph is illuminated, the shorter the shutter speed should be. And vice versa, if there is little light, then the shutter speed should be as long as possible. A long shutter speed is considered to be from 1/30 to 1s and above, and a short shutter speed is from 1/125 to 1/4000 and below.

Change your shutter speed to 1/500 or lower to capture a moving subject. Exercise, go outside. You can find a lot of movement here. For example, go to a park and film people jogging or children playing. Reduce the shutter speed until the photo and the edges of the subject become clearer. And vice versa, increase the shutter speed (from 60 and above) until you get a beautiful “tail” from a moving object in the picture. Try this effect with night photography, photograph the movement of luminous objects at long exposures. For example, the movement of cars, candles or lanterns in people's hands, you will see what miracles a simple change in shutter speed on the camera can do! The result will be photographs in which moving objects will leave long luminous trails behind them.

Change the shutter speed in equal proportion to the change in aperture. If you make the shutter speed slower, reduce the aperture and vice versa. These settings need to be changed in conjunction with each other, because only their combination gives the optimal and best exposure. So experiment. Only practically will you master this complex science. Choose something that is constantly moving so that you don't have to waste time looking for new objects. For example, remove water ( fast current rivers, streams, waterfalls, etc.) And track how much changing the shutter speed affects the detail of your photo.

Video on the topic

Please note

When shooting at long exposures, be sure to use a tripod or build some kind of hand rest. Long exposure contributes to the appearance of blurry pictures. Sometimes this can be done as an artistic decision, but if you do not have such a goal, be sure to secure the camera.

Useful advice

Install great value shutter speed if you are shooting a landscape, this will help make the image more fluid and pleasing to the eye. Fog, the light of neon spotlights, the movement of cars will seem more plastic, softer. Long exposure is one of the most strong means artistic expression in photography.

Sources:

• Experiments with exposure
• how to change aperture

Canon equipment is popular and loved all over the world. American company inspires hope in aspiring photographers with the slogan: Canon - You Can. Canon camera The 550d can take amazing photos if you set it up correctly, of course.

General settings

Custom settings are not directly related to the shooting process, but they greatly facilitate it by adjusting the menu to your convenience. By pressing the Menu button above the device screen, you will be taken to general settings.

Go through all the items in each tab. After you set up the Russian language, and you can do this in the second tab, understanding everything else will not be difficult, and you can easily cope with this task. It is much more interesting to learn how to make some settings directly from the shooting itself.

Selecting a shooting mode

The Canon 550d has several automatic and creative shooting modes. Automatic: portrait, night portrait, landscape, sports and macro, that’s why they are automatic, so you can independently adjust the aperture, shutter speed, light sensitivity, etc.

The rest, the creative ones, need intervention from the photographer. For example, A-DEP mode performs autoexposure function, controlling the sharpness of the image.

TV mode is used when you need to take a photo with the longest or short shutter speed. Av, on the contrary, is set to aperture priority - it controls the amount of incoming light. P mode, program, allows the photographer to control ISO and other parameters except aperture and shutter speed.

Exposure compensation

Exposure compensation during photography acts as an exposure compensator. To adjust exposure compensation on the Canon 550d, press and hold the +/- button. In the line that appears you will see a scale from -2v to +2v. If the subject is dark and you need to brighten the frame, scroll the aperture adjustment wheel to the right towards the “+” side. If the frame is light, then, on the contrary, to the left.

Once the desired value has been set, release the “+/-” button and the changes will take effect.

White balance

On the Canon 550d, like most cameras, it is possible to adjust the white balance. This option should be selected according to the main color source. If you take pictures outdoors, then the balance can be left on automatic mode, because... the sun will be the main source of light.

To even out the color and adjust the balance, go to the WB menu by pressing the corresponding button on the camera body. The WB button is located next to the navigation buttons.

ISO

The button responsible for light sensitivity (ISO) is located at the top of the camera next to the power button.

By clicking on it, you can select the value you need from 100 to 6400. This value determines how much the camera matrix will sense the light falling on it. The darker the area where you are shooting, the higher the ISO value should be.