Runny nose

Master class: Making a bracelet based on elastic silicone thread. Self-tightening knots for clothesline, for bracelet, for fishing line, for reel

Requires the fisherman to cast the tackle long-distance and accurately. For this purpose, anglers very often use sliding equipment. It is this that makes it possible to control the casting distance by adjusting the position of the float. This is done with the help of various locking devices on the main fishing line of the tackle. One of them is a locking sliding knot. We will talk about it, and also consider options for correct knitting.

Why do you need a sliding float?

It is used mainly for fishing from the bottom, as well as at a long distance from the angler. Its difference from a conventional bite indicator is that it is not “tightly” attached to the main line, but with the ability to move freely along it within a certain range set by the fisherman.

When casting, such a float is in close proximity to the load, which allows you to “throw” the tackle over the greatest possible distance. Once in the water, the weight with the hook is lowered to the bottom, and the bite indicator slides upward along the line until it is stopped by a locking sliding knot or other similar device. At the same moment, under the influence of two forces, one of which pushes the float to the surface, and the other pulls it to the bottom, it will freeze and stand vertically.

Such a float does not lose its sensitivity at all, but, on the contrary, reacts to any vibration of the equipment.

Float stops

Various devices can be used as a stopper, such as rubber or silicone beads placed on the main fishing line. They are freely sold in fishing stores and markets, and they cost pennies.

But still, the most popular and widespread means of fixing a float remains the sliding knot, invented by savvy fishermen. Tying it, knowing at least one of the methods, is not difficult. Moreover, this can be done even at the fishing spot, having a piece of fishing line or even ordinary sewing thread on hand.

If you don’t want to knit a locking knot for a sliding float yourself, you can buy one. Yes, yes, fishing stores today even sell knots. Usually they are tied to a special tube, and the fisherman can only remove the knot, put it on the fishing line and tighten it.

But we will not be like lazy and inept fishermen, but we will practice such knots on our own.

What to knit from

As for the material, ordinary fishing line is not suitable here. best choice. Firstly, the friction force in this case will be minimal. This will cause the unit to move easily and no longer lock. And secondly, the fishing line is quite transparent, and we need the upper limit of the float to be constantly visible.

Most often, a slip knot is knitted from a piece of backing cord for fly fishing, or regular thick thread (preferably wool). The last option is preferable, since it does not require any costs and works most effectively.

What else you need to know when starting to knit a stopper knot

If you plan to fish using a match fishing rod, you need to pay maximum attention to the stopper knot. The fact is that the fishing rod has many guide rings with rather narrow holes. Because of this, when casting, a situation often arises when the knot simply gets stuck in them. This, in turn, leads to the fact that the tackle not only does not fall into the intended place, but also gets tangled.

To avoid such troubles, the sliding float locking assembly must not only fit perfectly but also be tightened well. In addition, its ends should never be completely cut off. Firstly, this significantly impairs the passage through the rod guides, and secondly, they will still be needed to tighten the knot when it becomes loose.

Basic methods of knitting stopper knots

There are many in various ways knitting, including locking ones. Of course, it is impossible to study all of them, so we will look at the simplest and most popular of them:

“clinch” is the simplest and fastest locking unit for a sliding float to manufacture;
“improved” knot - knitted using a needle;
“kremkus” - a simple double knot;
"Danken" - the most practical and reliable knot

How to tie a clinch slip knot

The clinch knot is the easiest to knit. Because of this, anglers most often use it. The Clinch is a single knot, but this does not mean that it is unreliable or ineffective. He copes with his duties very well.

To make it we need wool thread bright color the same section as the fishing line. The algorithm for tying a knot is something like this:

Because of their “elegance,” locking knots for clinch-type fishing lines are mostly used specifically for match gear.

“Improved” (modified) node

Another option for a simple knot. Knitting it does not cause any difficulties at all, the only thing is that you should have a needle at hand (preferably a gypsy one).

To tie an “improved” slip knot for a float, take a thread and a needle and apply them to the fishing line (in parallel). Next, we wrap one of the ends around it all, making 5-6 turns. Then we thread the same end into the eye of the needle and pull it a little. We pull the needle towards its point and, after wetting the knot, slowly tighten and cut off its ends.

Kremkus knot

“Kremkus” is a double knot, as it is knitted in two threads. It is much thicker and denser than the “clinch”, but the process of knitting it is also quite simple:

Similar units are often used in feeder gear.

How to make a Dunken slip knot

The Danken knot is considered the most practical. Once you tighten it once while knitting, you won’t have to do it again. It holds securely on the fishing line and does not unravel. To tie a slip knot for a Dunken float, you need to follow these steps:

How to prepare knots for future use

If you are a fan of match or feeder fishing, you cannot do without stopper knots in any case.

In order not to have to worry about tying them every time you mount the gear, you can stock up on them in advance.

To do this, take a plastic tube like an ampoule from a ballpoint pen or electrical wire insulation 5-8 cm long and tie it to it required quantity nodes Now you will always have a whole set of stoppers at hand. To use them, just put the tube on the main fishing line, pull the outermost knot onto it, guide it to the desired area, tighten and trim the ends.

Many people are engaged in making beaded bracelets. Sometimes you get whole masterpieces, real works of art. Indeed, things created with your own hands are unique and original. But often a certain difficulty arises here, since many do not know how to tie a knot on a bracelet. Meanwhile, it is a strong knot that can guarantee the safety of all work. Be careful and attentive! For a bracelet to be a great piece of jewelry, it needs to be finished well. Using a surgical knot, you won’t have to worry about this, since it is the most durable and reliable. The main thing is to tie it correctly, because otherwise the knot will immediately come undone and the bracelet will fly apart.

So first, use an elastic thread to keep the bracelet in place. This way it won’t tear when worn and won’t fall off your hand. Secondly, when you have finally assembled it, cut the thread. You should have about a centimeter and a half free at the ends. Pull the thread and pull the ends out a couple of centimeters. First, make a half-knot: take one end of the thread and hold it with your hand, and at this time you will need to circle the second one near the first. Did it work? Now make a second half knot like this.

How to finally secure the thread? Many needlewomen do this: in the first half-knot they wrap the thread twice. In the second half-knot, the thread is wrapped only once. In other words, you perform mirror actions relative to the very first node. This is how a surgical knot is formed. Why surgical? Yes, because surgeons connect the threads this way during surgery.

Now you have tightened the knot, cut the ends of the thread at a distance of about one and a half millimeters, now insert them into the nearest beads. Some use glue to secure it for extra security. Well, if you can avoid getting glue on your bracelet, give it a try. Every needlewoman has her own secrets.

Ordinary

Try this node option. Thread one end of the thread into the loop on the other side. Now move the knot away from the loop and tie the ends of the thread together. True, this is not a very good option, since the sharp edge of the beads can break even a thread folded in half.

Slip knot

To tie such a knot, you will need a little patience and a little perseverance. First, prepare a cotton cord that is not too thick, no more than 90 cm long. Place beads on it in in the right order, weave a bracelet. Now - attention, let's tie a knot! Take the ends of the cord with your hand, so that there is a margin of 14 centimeters on each side, and direct them towards each other.

Then bend its right tip so that the tip is outside and placed on the edge (see picture). The resulting loop must be fixed. Make sure it is no more than 10 centimeters. Continue working with the right tip, and the knot will continue to slide along the left one.

Point the left tip from left to right, circle the loop and part of the lace several times, then carefully lay the resulting “rows” in the direction opposite to you. Make three more turns like this, holding the knot with your finger and adjusting the tension of the cord. Now pass the left and right ends through the resulting loop so that they can be pulled into a knot. Just don’t pull it too tightly, because the coils should move freely. So we made the first knot.

We proceed to the next one, doing exactly the same steps as the first time. The resulting node will be passive. Next, make a loop at the second end of the lace, for which you wrap the free tip around it five times and tighten the knot. The result is a loop into which you need to thread the remaining end of the cord. What is left can be trimmed. For special effect the ends can be glued using universal glue.

Sometimes a bracelet is woven by bending the thread in half. How to tighten the knot in this case?

The ends of our thread should be two loops. These loops must be put on the right and left hands and a knot must be tied without removing the loops from the hands as follows:

With your right hand, cross the loop in the middle of the thread and hold it. At this time, you need to put on a loop with your left hand, tying a knot in such a way that our bracelet, put on your left hand, fits inside the loop. Now we pass a loop under the bracelet and pull it out from under the bracelet. Left hand release from the loop, release the thread and pull it. It turns out to be a knot!

Another way: you need to make a loop on a thread or rope, then put it on your hand, closer to the elbow of the loop that is on your hand. You thread the loop into the hole of another loop tied on your arm and throw the resulting knot onto the thread.

These are the methods of tying knots on a bracelet that exist today. Now you know them and can use them. Good luck!

There are many ways to assemble a bracelet.

Today we will talk about the simplest things. This is an elastic bracelet that does not require a clasp.

To make such a bracelet, you will need a minimum of materials and 10 minutes of time.

We will need:

— Elastic silicone thread. The thickness of elastic threads ranges from 0.4 to 2 mm. The most common are 0.5 and 0.8 mm. There are also options for color. In our case, any will do (for transparent beads, you may have to take into account the color). If you have large, heavy beads and the thread is thin, fold it in half.

- Various beads (not very large and not heavy), beads, perhaps pendants - it’s up to your taste

- scissors

- a thin needle and a piece of regular thread about 20 cm long (will make the work easier)

First, determine the size of your wrist. This is especially true if you want the bracelet to fit tightly on your hand.

If the holes in the beads are wide enough, you can string them on a thread. It’s more convenient (and faster) for me to use a needle and auxiliary thread, as shown in the photo below.

Place beads and beads on an elastic thread as you like. The length of the dialed section should be slightly larger than your wrist. Please note that a bracelet that is too narrow will squeeze your hand, while a bracelet that is too wide will dangle.

When selecting beads, it is necessary to take into account the pattern repeat and the size of the largest beads.

In the photo, the yellow arrow indicates the wrist size, the blue arrows indicate possible options end of the set. I do not recommend making the bracelet smaller than your wrist - it will pinch, and after a few hours of wear there will be marks on the skin. It is always better to provide a small margin for a loose fit. Moreover, for small beads half a centimeter is enough, for large beads you may need even up to 2 centimeters - keep in mind that the final internal diameter of your bracelet directly depends on the size of the beads.

After the beads are collected, pinch the thread at the base of the beads and cut, do not stretch the thread. You now have loose ponytails of about one and a half centimeters.

Now pull the thread and pull out the tails another centimeter and a half to two. This will be enough to make it convenient to tie a knot; the thread in the bracelet will be taut, but not too much. Tie a knot.

First node:

Since the thread must be taut when tying a knot, hold it tightly with your left hand, and with your right hand, circle it with a free tail as shown by the arrow (If you use the knot I recommend, then you will need to circle it twice, pressing the turns with the fingers of your left hand).

Second node.

To make it more convenient, press the first knot with your middle finger.

Now about How to tie an elastic thread?

For the first knot, wrap the thread not once, but twice - as shown in the photo:

Tie the second knot as usual. Please note that it is knitted in a mirror image (“in the other direction”) relative to the first one (according to the principle of a straight knot).

The knot is in a tightened state. This -

Important to know! Here's an example wrong tied surgical knot: the second knot is tied “in the same way” as the first:

Important to know! When tightened, such a knot unfolds.

Important to know! This photo shows a possible build error— before tying the knot, the thread was not tightened enough, and the beads are now dangling. To eliminate the defect, pull the thread, cut the thread close to the knot, and tie the knot again, trying to leave short tails.

After the knot is tightened, trim the tails at a distance of about one and a half millimeters from the knot. Additionally, the knot can be secured with glue, but I don’t do this.

The bracelet is ready!

Now you can make half a dozen more - and wear them both together and separately.

Small tricks for working with elastic silicone thread

What to do if the thread is thin?

If you have thin thread or you don't trust it, fold it in half.

But if your beads have small holes, and a knot tied on a double thread turns out to be too thick for them, you can do something more cunning: thread one of the tails of the thread into the loop on the opposite side (as shown in the photo):

Now tie the ends of the thread together, preferably moving the knot slightly away from the loop (method 2).

On next photo the loop into which one of the tails went is not visible, but it is clearly visible that the knot will be tied to the side of the loop. Both the knot and the bend of the thread through the loop form thickenings on the thread, and it is better if they are spaced apart from each other by at least half a centimeter.

Disadvantages of this method: If your bracelet uses beads with sharp edges (for example, glass beads or cut beads), the base thread may fray over time. If your bracelet is strung on a double thread as described above (method 2), then it is enough to fray one thread for the bracelet to fall apart. While a bracelet assembled using method 1 will last longer. This does not mean that method 2 is worse or better, just keep in mind that in this case the presence of beads with sharp edges may be the weakest link in the entire assembly.

By the way, a tightly stretched thread rubs against the sharp edge of the glass bead. Therefore, do not skimp on a couple of centimeters of thread and do not tighten it too much. The tension should be such that the beads just stick together, tightly to each other. Such a bracelet will be easier to put on, and a loose thread will not stretch so quickly. And if the bracelet becomes your favorite, and you wear it a lot and for a long time, so much so that the thread stretches, you will have the opportunity to tie the knot again, a little tighter.

Usually the cross is put on after the sacrament of baptism. You can wear it on a chain or a special ribbon. The cross is considered not only a symbol of Christianity, it is also a talisman. Worn under clothing, but wearing it on top is not prohibited. Can be combined with samples or other decorations. However, the cross must be worn on a separate string (chain). When putting it on a rope, the question often arises as to how to tie the knot.

Knots for tying a cross rope

There is no specific technology for tying knots (their number, shape, size). It is worth using the method that is convenient, easy to implement, reliable and durable. There are many types of such nodes.

One of the most simple ways, are the following nodes:

Direct

Mother-in-law

You can use slightly more complicated options:

Surgical

Step 1. The edges of the cord are overlapped.

Step 2. Turn around again.

Step 3. The ends are brought out from above the twist and crossed.

Step 4. Pulling the ends tightens the knot.

Flat

Step 1. A loop is made on one side. The second part is superimposed on it.

Step 3. Drawing from above itself, it comes out of the loop from below.

Step 4. By pulling both ends, the knot is tightened.

The ends of the knots can be processed using a lighter (burned) to ensure the reliability of the bundle.

Types of cords for a cross

Laces (another name for gaitana) used to wear a cross are divided according to materials of manufacture into the following types:

Leather;
Rubber;
Silicone;
Silk;
Textile.

Gaitana made of leather.

Leather gaitans are durable. They are elastic and treated with special solutions that repel moisture. There are models on sale with inserts and clasps made of precious metals (gold, silver). For massive crosses, thick braided laces are suitable. More elegant products look good on thin leather ropes. This natural material is suitable for everyday wear, complementing any look.

Cords made of rubber and silicone are also not afraid of moisture, have flexibility, softness and at the same time good strength. Silicone cords, unlike rubber cords, have a glossy appearance. It lasts throughout the entire wear time.

Silk braid for the cross.

Silk laces and ribbons from cotton fabric You can buy it directly in the church, during baptism. They can have a variety of colors, wash well and have a delicate texture. These gaitans are ideal for children. They do not irritate the baby's skin and are easily cleaned of dirt while bathing the child.

When tying such ropes to a child, they should be too long. The lace should not get tangled, cling, be comfortable during movements and not choke the child (easily removed if necessary, without untying the knot). The knot should be made small so as not to irritate (rub) the baby’s skin.

How to weave a rope for a cross

You can weave a rope (lace) for a cross with your own hands, with a little patience and perseverance, using several simple methods.

The first way to make two-color weaving.

This round cord is made of four threads:

Threads are taken different colors, are fixed.
Dark colors are located at the bottom and top, light colors are in the middle.
Dark threads intertwine with light ones, constantly being above and below them.

The second is a spiral two-color ribbon. In this version, the threads are knitted alternately with a regular knot (dark in light and vice versa).

Another simple way:

Fasten one end of the thread motionless.
The other is to start twisting.
Fold the resulting lace in half (it will twist itself).
Straighten the creases, tie the ends with knots.

You will get a simple, twisted rope for a cross.

To work, you will need a cord approximately 90 cm long, depending on the thickness of the cord. The cord can be anything, but it is more difficult to tie a knot on slippery cords, so to master it, take a regular waxed cotton one, not very thin.

First you need to put on the cord what should be there: beads or a pendant (pendant). An option with one large beautiful bead, perhaps in an ethnic style, would look interesting. It is better if the bead is not round: cylindrical or flattened. But the option with several ordinary beads can also work out well.

Step 1. Take the ends of the cord in your hand towards each other. The length of the tails for work is approximately 15 cm.

Bend the right cord into a loop so that the tail itself is at the edge. The size of the loop is up to 10 cm, or less. Now we have a working cord - the right one, and the left one - the one on which the knot will subsequently ride.

The tip of the left cord is not visible in the photo - it turned out to be too long and was not included in the frame. The left cord runs from left to right and ends somewhere behind the top edge of the photo. By the way, it is more convenient to tie a knot not on the edge of the cord (in my case, this is the left cord), but by stepping back - the knot will still move, and later you will move it where you need it.

Step 2. Use your tail to circle the cords several times, laying the turns towards each other in the direction away from you.

First round:

And two more:

When you tie a knot, hold it with your fingers all the time so that the turns do not loosen. I removed it for the photo index finger to show what the coils look like. But the usual working position of the finger is as in the photo below.

Step 3. Make a few turns (three is enough, but more is possible - to your taste) and then pass the tail through the loop:

Now tighten the knot thoroughly, pulling both ends of the cord alternately.

A tied knot looks like this:

The knot should be tight. But here you will have to practice: if you tighten the turns too tightly, the knot will be difficult to move along the cord; if it is loose, it will come loose.

Now you can start tying second node.

Make a loop in the same way...

Then make a few turns...

Pull the tail through the loop and tighten the knot.

For clarity, I tied the knots close to each other. You can tie them anywhere on the cord, the main thing is that the tail, which will then remain redundant, is not very long.

Once both knots are tied, check the overall resulting bead length and how the knots move along the cord. If necessary, the knot (one or both) can be tied.

After this, tighten the knots again and secure them with second glue or varnish - just a drop of glue at the point where the tail passes through the loop. Cut off the excess at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the knot and secure the cut with glue or varnish.

All! You can put it on and enjoy the new thing.

Since the necklace assembled in this way will be worn over the head, the length of the beads should not be smaller size heads. Usually this is about 56-58 cm without taking into account the hairstyle :-) In addition, you need to add the length of the cord, which will directly go to the knots: in my example, a 2 mm thick cord was used and 7 cm was needed for each knot (of course, for a thinner cord you will need less: on a regular waxed cord, the knot takes 5 cm). Add to this another 10-15 centimeters for the “tails” (for the first time, then, when you learn, you will need less) and 2-3 cm for a loose fit - a reserve so that you can put it loosely over your head.

Total we get: 58 + 7x2 + 15 + 3 = 90 cm. This is the approximate length required for work for a 2 mm cord. If you want to make beads longer than 58 cm, make the appropriate adjustments.

A little trick. The cord does not need to be cut to work. You can put beads on a cord of the length that you have (even if it is a whole spool), tie the first knot with the free end of the cord. Then estimate the required length and cut the cord. After this, tie a second knot.

How to determine where to tie the second knot.

It depends on the design of the item you want. In any case, you are limited by two parameters: The circumference of your jewelry in the most tightened position should not be less than the circumference of the neck, and in the most open position (when the nodes are next to each other) - slightly more than the volume of the head, that is, about 58-60 cm.

Before tying the second knot, I try it on the neck. In this case, the first knot should be in the place where I want to see it when worn, and the total length of the beads should be the shortest that suits me (or the way I will wear it). At the free end of the cord I mark the place that corresponds to the position of the second knot. You need to bend the cord at the mark and make a knot as close to the loop as possible (so that the loop is small).

The second option is to use a ruler. Suitable if you know how long your product should be.

In the photo, the mark on the cord is highlighted with a blue dot. In these beads, I decided to move the cords as far forward as possible, so that when worn they would fix the beads.

And the hero of our lesson in close-up:

Happy creativity!