Makita 2450 rotary hammer switch does not work. Timely repair of a hammer drill: how to properly disassemble a Makita hammer drill? The hammer blow has disappeared - what to do?
In our country, one of the most popular hammer drills is the Makita 2450. And this is no coincidence. After all, the Makita 2450 has good characteristics, and its assembly scheme allows you to do it yourself. Makita is known as a quality Japanese manufacturer, but the HR 2450 is made in China. To draw conclusions about the quality of the equipment presented, you should consider user reviews of the Makita 2450 left in various sources. Having deepened the knowledge about the presented tool, it will be easy to draw a conclusion about the advisability of purchasing it.
General characteristics
"Makita 2450" is known among builders and repairmen as a fairly functional professional tool. It is simple and reliable in operation, lightweight and well balanced. Thanks to this, the Makita 2450 will last for quite a long time. It has a good dust protection system, which makes the equipment durable.
Its popularity is explained by the possibility of repairing the Makita 2450 rotary hammer at home. You won't need to spend a lot of money on its maintenance. However, before assembling the 2450" you should familiarize yourself with the technology for disassembling and repairing it.
Specifications
The Makita 2450 hammer drill has a certain set of qualities. The characteristics presented by the manufacturer in the instructions are as follows.
The weight of the tool is only 2.4 kg. The drills are secured by the SDS+ system. The hammer drill is designed for crushing, drilling and impact drilling. It has three operating modes. The idle speed is 1100 per minute, and the maximum number of strokes is 4500 per minute. The maximum translational force is 2.7 J. Maximum drilling diameter:
- for wood - 32 mm;
- for metal - 13 mm;
- for concrete - 24 mm;
- for a hollow crown - 54 mm.
The Makita 2450 rotary hammer also has additional functions. Characteristics include the presence of a safety clutch, reverse, locking the power button, as well as electronic speed control.
The power supply network is 780 W. The cable length is 4 m.
Signs of a fake
Due to the great popularity of the equipment presented, cases of counterfeiting are not uncommon. There are characteristic features that define a fake HR 2450 hammer drill. These include a short cord (about 0.5 m). The letters on the black clasps of the suitcase are matte on the fake, but shiny on the original.
In the photo of the hammer drill in the instructions for this product, the background is light gray, almost white. The copy will have a dark, dull color in the background of the image.
If the HR 2450 case shows Japan as the manufacturer, it is not a genuine instrument. The original says: “Made in P.R.C.”, i.e. “made in China.”
Includes rubberized handle with serial number. All parts of the suitcase must also each contain its own designation. The fake handle is made not of rubber, but of plastic. This should also be a signal about the need to refuse to purchase such an instrument.
Disassembly diagram
In the process of repairing the presented equipment, the user must be able to disassemble the tool. The assembly diagram of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer has many components and elements. To carry out repairs, you do not need to know all of them. Here are the most basic elements that the diagram represents (Makita 2450 is a very complex device).
The first is the retaining ring. It is involved in the process of dismantling the cartridge cover. Next comes the ring locking device. It holds the ball to secure the drill. It is guided by a washer and a conical spring.
The gearbox is connected to the motor by 4 screws. The circuit contains many rubber parts, which, when worn out, become a common cause of breakdown.
This knowledge is enough to carry out repairs at home. Next, you should familiarize yourself with the technique of its implementation.
The feasibility of self-repair
Repairing the Makita 2450 hammer drill yourself is worth doing for several reasons.
Service center representatives troubleshoot problems using a specific algorithm. This leads to quite high costs for
There is also a high probability that the employees of the company’s representative office will simply conduct a routine inspection, the need for which is questionable. And you still have to pay for it.
If a unit or several of them still require replacement, the service staff will supply only licensed Makita 2450 parts. Repair in this case may be comparable in cost to purchasing a new tool. All these facts speak in favor of independently tuning or replacing equipment parts.
Repair
"Makita 2450" can be repaired with your own hands if you have certain knowledge and skills. The technology for inspecting and replacing parts of the HR 2450 model is quite simple. It involves disassembling the tool, after which all old grease, dust, and dirt are removed. Damaged nodes are replaced with new ones. Then all the parts of the hammer drill are assembled together. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with each point of such work. They can be produced in the area of the chuck, mode switch, or hammer housing.
To carry out repairs, first remove the cartridge, then the speed switch. After this, repairs are carried out inside the housing. Lubricant and worn rubber elements are replaced.
Cartridge
Using a flat-head screwdriver, the cartridge is disassembled. Repairing a Makita 2450 rotary hammer with your own hands begins with this element. Squeeze the cartridge cover and remove the rubber boot. The retaining ring is removed. Then the cartridge cover and metal ring are removed. It locks the drill fixation ball in the barrel. It is removed, and the metal washer and conical spring are removed without effort.
The cause of the breakdown may be wear and tear of parts. It is detected if the drill does not lock automatically without releasing the lid. After checking all the details, the cause of the breakdown is identified. Old elements are cleaned of dirt and old grease. The ball is thickly treated with new oil. The conical spring is installed with the narrow side facing the resistor.
The guide washer should press it so that it is below the hole in the barrel. Repairing the Makita 2450 rotary hammer from the chuck area requires fixing the ball in the hole. All parts are assembled in reverse order.
Mode switch
To carry out disassembly, remove the T-shaped latch on the switch handle. Use a 2mm screwdriver for this. You need to very carefully tighten the tabs of the latch. She is pulled out. The red latch must be held so that it does not fly out under the action of the spring.
After performing these steps, the switch knob should be turned to the extreme left position. So its protrusions will coincide with the grooves of the editor body. The switch is easy to remove. The retainer is removed along with the spring. The rubber ring on the switch handle should be pryed off with a thin screwdriver and removed. It prevents lubricant from leaking out of the housing.
The assembly diagram of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer in the switch area assumes a certain sequence. All parts and the seat are cleaned of old dirt. Thickly lubricate two metal pins and a rubber ring. It is put on the switch. A spring is inserted into the handle, then a latch. It should not pop out when the latch is installed into the housing.
The switch is then inserted into the gearbox. In this case, the handle is directed to the sector between the designation of the combined mode and the impact. It will not insert all the way. The switch should be turned to the drilling mode and a little further. In this case, you must remember to press the lock button so that it does not interfere with movement.
Then turn the switch clockwise and press the latch all the way.
Switch faults
In the process of familiarizing yourself with the question of how to assemble a Makita 2450, you should find out frequent switch malfunctions. They may be caused by worn metal pins. In this case, any of the modes will not be activated. The switch will need to be replaced. This should also be done if the landing lugs are broken.
If the rubber ring is worn out, a slight leakage of lubricant will occur. We'll have to replace it.
It happens that the clamp breaks the beak with which it is attached to the cavities of the gearbox. The clamp tabs may be damaged. To avoid all of the above damage, you need to handle the tool carefully.
Gear housing
To remove the housing from the gearbox, you need to lift the tool barrel up. The hammer drill should be pressed against the workbench while simultaneously pulling the shell upward. In this position, all parts remain in place.
After their inspection, testing and replacement, the gearbox housing is installed in place. All its elements must be located in their original form. Necessary elements need to be lubricated.
During the assembly process, the gearbox housing must be cleaned with kerosene or gasoline. Next, the shell is put on the original place. The mode switch should not be in it.
Malfunctions in the gearbox housing
The body of the HR 2450 model is characterized by high strength; failures in this unit are quite rare. But it happens that certain troubles occur here too. If the case was received together with it, then its seat is badly worn. When this part becomes extremely loose, the housing should be replaced.
Sometimes the seat of the intermediate shaft is broken. The repair is expected to be similar to the first case.
The gear housing shaft has If it is damaged by construction dust (this happens extremely rarely) or careless actions of a repairman, it is replaced along with the housing.
The same procedure is performed in case of failure of the mode switch holes. The listed types of breakdowns are typical for counterfeit copies.
Hammers are impact drilling devices designed for drilling and chiseling holes in particularly durable materials.
The hammer drill implements two ideas: the working tool rotates and simultaneously moves in the longitudinal direction, creating a shock impulse.
Rotary hammers always work in extreme conditions.
The operating life of rotary hammers depends not only on the correct operating conditions, but also on the reliability of the parts included in the product.
But no matter how hard you try, over time the hammer drills begin to fail.
To properly repair a rotary hammer, you need to become familiar with its structure.
Do-it-yourself repair of a Makita 2470 and 2450 hammer drill can be done by a person who has the skills of a mechanic and knows the basics of electrical engineering.
Remember! Follow safety rules and disconnect the hammer drill from the mains when disassembling.
Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammers are assembled according to almost the same design and from the same parts. Repairing them is no different.
For ease of repair, below is an assembly diagram and a catalog of parts for Makita rotary hammers.
The Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer circuit consists of a mechanical and electrical part. 
The mechanical part ensures the transmission of torque to the drill bit, simultaneously creating a translational movement that creates an impact.
The mechanical part consists of a rotation drive and an impact mechanism.
The electrical circuit of the Makita rotary hammer ensures the conversion of electrical energy into kinetic energy through the rotation of the rotor.
The electrical part includes an electric motor, a power button with a speed controller, a reverse switch, and connecting wires.
Main malfunctions of the makita rotary hammer
Malfunctions of hammer drills are divided into electrical and mechanical.
In this article, we will consider all the faults in the electrical part of the Makita 2470 and 2450 rotary hammers and how to eliminate them:
Electrical malfunctions of Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 rotary hammers
Electrical faults manifest themselves in the fact that when the hammer drill is connected to the mains voltage, the tool does not turn on.
The connection diagram for a Makita hammer drill to the network is simple.
The electrical circuit of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer is a series connection of an electric motor, a start button and wires. The makita 2470 rotary hammer circuit is similar.
Through the connecting cord pos. 72, the 220 V supply voltage is supplied through the switch pos. 68 and electric brushes through the brush holder pos. 66 to the lamellas of the electric motor rotor pos. 54, and through the contacts of the reverse switch pos. 60 to the stator winding pos. 59.
The most common malfunction is the lack of contacts in the connections.
Procedure for identifying electrical faults
Video: Makita HR 2470 disease \ Rotary hammer 2470 stopped turning on \ Contacts burned \ maintenance tool
Determining the integrity of the electrical part of the Makita rotary hammer. In order to repair a Makita 2450 or Makita 2470 rotary hammer with your own hands, you need to arm yourself with devices and tools. Any tester, a set of screwdrivers, keys, a hammer, or a wooden adapter will do. It's good to have a screwdriver with a built-in phase indicator.
You need to take the tester, connect to the ends of the hammer drill plug and press the hammer drill switch. If the tester shows some resistance, then the power supply circuit of the hammer drill is intact.
If the tester shows infinity, then the integrity of the circuit is broken and it is necessary to remove the back cover to check the connecting cable and electric brushes of the hammer drill.
The back cover (usually black) of the hammer drill can be easily removed; you just need to unscrew three screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver.
Remove the cover and use a screwdriver to disconnect the ends of the wires from the electric brushes.
Using a tester or a homemade device, popularly called an “arkashka,” determine the integrity of the supply wires and the correct operation of the switch.
A few words about a simple control device called “arkashka”. The device consists of an LED or flashlight bulb, a AA battery and two pieces of wire. The entire electrical circuit of the control device consists of parts connected in series. Connect the battery to one end of the LED or light bulb, and attach wires to the free ends of the LED and battery. You will get a universal device for checking the integrity of electrical circuits.
Typical malfunctions of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer
Common malfunctions in the electrical part of the Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 rotary hammer:
- fracture of the supply cable at the entry point into the hammer drill;
- failure of the switch button TG813TLB-1, art. 650508-0, pos. 68.;
- wear of electric carbon brushes SV-419, art. 191962-4, pos. 65;
- wear of reverse switch contacts;
- wear of rotor bearings: bearing 609LLU, art. 210060-6, pos. 51; bearing 607LLU, art. 211021-9, pos. 56;
- rotor short circuit 220-240 V, art. 515668-8, pos. 54;
- failure of the stator winding 220-240 V for HR2450, art. 633488-5, pos. 59.
The TG813TLB-1 switch, art. 650508-0, is used as a start button; pos. 68.
The brushes are replaced when they are completely worn out or have poor contact. This malfunction is detected by strong heating of the points where the electric brushes are installed.
Failure to turn on the hammer drill may be caused by abrasion of the contacts on the reverse switch.
This type of problem can be fixed very simply.
Repair of Makita rotary hammer reverse switch
To repair the reverse switch, you need to disconnect the back cover. Carefully disconnect the wires from the button. Carefully inspect the switch.
Further disassembly involves removing the brush holder, after first freeing the brushes themselves.
By removing the brush holder, you will get to the reverse switch contacts.
Determine its condition and replace the contacts if necessary.
Another common electrical fault is poor contact between the stator and the lower contacts of the reverse switch.
Repair of contact between stator and reverse switch
To remove the stator, you need to disconnect the gear housing (black) from the stator housing (green).
Remember! In the mechanical part of the rotor, the bearing is pressed with a special ring. Don't lose it when disassembling.
The green housing houses the stator.
How to properly disassemble a Makita HR2450 rotary hammer?
Looking into the middle, you will see two self-tapping screws 4x60, art. 266334-3, pos. 57, securing the stator to the housing. Unscrew them, remove the plastic stator protection for HR2450, art. 419201-3, pos. 58., free the stator.
When you remove the stator, you will see the contacts on the stator and the reverse switch panel.
Thoroughly clean the contacts with sandpaper and treat with solvent or alcohol.
Before assembly, bend the contacts so that they fit tightly into each other. Lubricate the contacts with a thin layer of technical Vaseline.
Reassembling the electrical part of the hammer drill is carried out in the reverse order.
How to disassemble a Makita hammer drill
Self-repair of a Makita hammer drill barrel with a selection of spare parts
Even very reliable Makita rotary hammers break down over time. Any breakdown can be eliminated, you just need to have straight arms and perseverance.
In addition to electrical faults, rotary hammers are also susceptible to mechanical breakdowns.
Operating rotary hammers with hard materials in a dusty environment will shorten their service life and require user intervention to perform preventive maintenance.
Repair of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer
Any tool repair begins with determining the nature of the malfunction and disassembling it.
The Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer can be repaired by a user who has basic plumbing skills and is familiar with electrical safety requirements.
This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita rotary hammer, the main faults and how to eliminate them. Disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer
To get to the mechanical part of the hammer drill, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.
Disassembling the quick-release chuck Place the hammer drill on the back cover of the case on a table surface covered with a clean cloth or paper. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.
Carefully release the ring spring pos. 2, coupling casing pos. 3, steel ring pos. 4.
Timely repair of a hammer drill: how to properly disassemble a Makita hammer drill?
You will reach a steel ball with a diameter of 7 mm, pos. 20.
Now you can remove the housing of the mechanical part. It is black. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the housing.
Holding the black body with your right hand, press your thumb on the end of the shaft from which the cartridge was disassembled. The plastic case can be easily removed.
To disconnect the mechanical part from the electrical part, you must first remove the electric brushes. Remember! The rotor is held in the lower part of the housing by electric brushes, which must be removed.
After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the rotor slats, use a screwdriver to pry the metal housing of the hammer drill at the border of the green plastic housing.
Now we move on to disconnecting the rotor from the mechanical part of the hammer drill. The rotor is held in the mechanical part by helical gears of the gearbox. If you take the rotor housing in one hand and the mechanical part housing in the other and pull in different directions, rocking, you will separate these two assemblies.
You will get a knot like this in the old grease. 
Next, use a hexagon to unscrew two M4×12 bolts, item 43, art. 266273-7 with an internal hex head. Pull out the shaft with intermediate spur gear 10 pos. 80, art. 226399-7.
from the inner housing pos. 49, art. 153687-8. Clean the parts from old grease.
You will end up with such a mountain of clean parts. Now carefully look through the parts, immediately throw away the rubber rings and pick up new ones.
Replace defective parts with new ones.
Mechanical malfunctions of makita 2450 and makita 2470 rotary hammers
Common mechanical malfunctions of Makita rotary hammers include:
- destruction of the quick release chuck;
- bearing failure;
- damage to the impact mechanism;
- wear of the hammer drill barrel;
- wear of the rubber striker and striker;
- gear failure.
Repair of the hammer drill chuck is carried out to replace the boot and rubber ring, as well as the conical spring and steel ball that clamps the working tool (drill). This is indicated by the fact that the working tool? namely the drill, is poorly held in the chuck.
The main reason is wear of the steel ball 7.0 pos. 20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the cartridge bore due to dust and dirt getting inside.
The general view and design of the Makita hammer drill chuck is shown in the photo below. 
Repairing a makita 2450 hammer drill chuck with your own hands is easy. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discarded rubber parts, and replaced defective ones.
More complex faults require knowledge of the mechanical structure of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.
Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita rotary hammer, proceed to disassembling the mechanical part, called the gearbox.
Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video. Free it from old grease. Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, and level of wear. All rubber products require replacement during any disassembly.
Let's consider repairing a hammer drill barrel. Let's analyze the mechanism completely. Video of disassembling, lubricating and assembling a Makita hammer drill
Repair of parts of the Makita 2450 hammer drill barrel
Remember! The rotor is held in the lower part of the housing by electric brushes, which must be removed.
At the next stage, the rotor must be disconnected from the removed mechanism. The rotor is disconnected from the mechanism simply by pulling it out, since it is held in place by the friction of two helical gears.
It turned out to be such a dirty knot.
Now we need to separate the impact mechanism shaft.
Most often, the rubber rings and the firing pin, pos. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. and cylinder parts. This is how barrel parts wear out and break down when the tool is used incorrectly.
Let's consider the most complex malfunction - failure of the impact mechanism. Characteristic signs of failure of the impact mechanism are the absence of impact and the unpleasant noise of the rotary hammer operating in the “Impact” mode.
This malfunction is typical for those rotary hammers that, during operation, were strongly pressed against the surface being processed.
Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove debris and pieces of foreign objects. We find the faulty part and clean everything of old grease.
Very often the firing pin, item 24, art. 324396-8, included in the barrel. metal ring pos. 27. art. 324216-6.
Discard damaged parts, replace with new ones, and cover with a thin layer of lubricant. The parts are ready for assembly. But more on that in the next article.
Good luck to you!
More than 50 models of rotary hammers with Makita SDS-plus chuck at the lowest prices. Payment upon receipt.
Seller: VseInstrumenty.Ru
More details
| Price | RUB 8,790 |
| Brand | |
| Model |
Weight: 2.6 kg; Vibration protection: no; Number of modes: 3; Max drilling diameter (wood): 32 mm; Max drilling diameter (metal): 13 mm; Power: 780 W; Impact force: 2.7 J; Shank type: sds-plus; Gross weight: 5.29 kg; Max drilling diameter (concrete): 24 mm; Max drilling diameter with crown (concrete): 50 mm; Cable length: 4 m; Spindle speed: 0-1100 rpm; Impact frequency: 0-4500 beats/min; Reverse: electronic; Safety clutch: yes; Max drilling diameter with crown (brick): 50 mm; Speed adjustment: yes; Dimensions in packaging: 480x320x100 mm; Max impact force: 2.7 J; Availability of chiseling mode: yes; Equipment: suitcase/case; Drill chuck: yes;
Product class: Professional;
Do-it-yourself repair of the Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer gearbox - the most complete review
I got to my makita HR 2450 rotary hammer, which lost its kick at the peak. There is an internal blow, but at the peak...
Disassembling the makita HR2450 rotary hammer in 5 minutes before m
Repairing Makita HR 2450 Replacing the metal case Assembling the Makita HR2450 rotary hammer
Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair. When can and should you repair a rotary hammer?
The hammer drill always works in extreme conditions. It is not surprising that over time it fails, both consumer goods models and well-known brands. If a hammer drill is expensive, you won’t just throw it away and run to buy another one in exchange, and there’s no need to. It’s better to try to repair a hammer drill yourself, and our article will help you with this.
To be or not to be repaired
When you are faced with a choice and decide what to do with a hammer drill that just doesn’t want to work, think: can you repair it yourself? It is worth taking on repairs if:
- you already have experience in repairing some mechanisms;
- if your hammer drill is not one of the cheapest models. In this case, not only should you not undertake repairs yourself, but you should not contact the experts. As they say: “The game is not worth the trouble”;
- if you know the nuances of the hammer drill you are going to repair, because they are very different from each other, each has its own technological features.
It is most effective to consider a specific example, which is what we will do.
Makita hammer drill repair
This hammer drill is known for its reliability, but someday there is a limit to its endurance.
Let's disassemble our tool and start with the cartridge
To find out the cause of the breakdown, it is necessary to disassemble the mechanism:
- Let's remove the lever by which the shifts are made. Special care is required here, otherwise the repair may result in further damage to the parts.
- If you have a Makita model 2450, then the cartridge cannot be removed here, so you will have to disassemble it:
- take a flat screwdriver and remove the rubber gasket - a barrier to dust getting inside the hammer drill. You may have already changed this part more than once;
- next is the retaining ring;
- The lid now prevents further disassembly. We remove it and see that in the barrel of the cartridge there is a fixing unit, consisting of a ring holding the ball, a guide for the ball, and a conical spring. Let's sort everything out in order, starting with the metal ring.
What surprises can await you after disassembling the cartridge? Typical problems:
- The rubber gasket has worn out and no longer prevents dust from getting inside the hammer drill. The repair will consist of cleaning the parts from dust and replacing the boot. Dirt will also penetrate if the cover on the cartridge is deformed. This does not particularly affect the operation, but the parts will wear out faster;
- The retaining ring has become loose or completely worn out. We change it;
- the ball is worn out. The solution is simple - replacement, but with the condition that the diameter is not smaller by a micron, otherwise the cartridge will fail again and completely. Do not forget to thoroughly lubricate this element and fix it in the hole of the guide washer;
- It is also possible that the ball guide itself may wear out, i.e. washers at the points where they contact. If it is critically worn out, we replace it;
- The conical spring is the most resistant part, but during prolonged operation it can also become deformed. If this happens, we perform a replacement by turning its smaller top towards the gearbox;
- Now you can assemble the cartridge, but do the assembly in the reverse order and finally lubricate the end of the drill.
We disassemble the switch that controls the selection of operating modes
To perform this operation, you will need a 2 mm slotted screwdriver with a T-shaped working part:
- The main task is to pull the latch out of the handle. Having inserted a screwdriver into one of the grooves on the side of the handle, carefully hook it first to one wing of the latch, and then to the other, and pull it out of the handle. In this case, the spring may be pressed out and the latch will pop out of the handle. We hold it so that this does not happen;
- Now you need to move the handle to the left until the protrusions on it and the recesses on the gearbox housing coincide. The switch is released and we dismantle it;
- remove the latch together with the spring;
- remove the rubber seal located on the switch handle;
- we clean all the parts and their location.
- The first thing that most likely caused the failure of the hammer drill was worn-out switch fingers, because during operation they constantly come into contact with rotating parts. In this case, the switch must be changed, but if the work cannot be interrupted to find a new switch, then simply rotate the worn element 180 degrees. This measure is temporary and complete replacement cannot be avoided anyway.
- The seats have become unusable. We change the switch.
- The sealing round rubber gasket is deformed and lubricant leaks out of the gearbox. The solution is obvious - we make a replacement.
- The extension of the latch holding it in the gear housing has broken, which facilitates spontaneous switching of modes. You don’t have to change the latch, if this problem doesn’t bother you, the hammer drill will still work.
- Breakage of both wings of the latch, which leads to the switch jumping out of its seat in the housing. We change the latch and move on.
- The switch handle is equipped with two metal fingers. They need to be lubricated, and at the same time the ring, before putting it in place.
- Next we put in the handle:
- spring;
- retainer;
- latch.
3. We place the switch in the gearbox, but only partially, otherwise we will not be able to perform the next operation
4. The switch will have to be turned counterclockwise so that it becomes the same as it was when we dismantled it. Now it will completely fall into place. If you feel that something is wrong, then you have set the latch too deep.
5. All that remains is to scroll the switch clockwise until it reaches the drilling mode position, press down the latch, make sure that the switch moves correctly to the selected positions, and the repair of the hammer drill in this part is completed. Next we'll work on the gearbox.
We repair the gearbox
If there is no suspicion that the engine has burned out, then the task is simplified by the fact that we will not dismantle the entire gearbox:
- with the barrel in a perpendicular position, pull out the housing along with the needle bearing. The malfunction may manifest itself in the fact that the bearing does not come out, and this indicates that the seat in the housing has worn out. Then it is better to replace the housing;
- replacement of the part is also necessary when the fit of the intermediate shaft bearing is loose;
- If you notice that there is an oil leak, then sometimes, although rarely, you have to change the oil seal, the location of which is the body neck. More often, the cause is not the oil seal itself, but excess lubricant;
- if you have a real Makita, and not a fake, the seat for the switch is rarely worn out, and if they slipped you a fake, then the case will have to be changed often for this reason.
The cause was found and eliminated, now we are collecting, while:
- lubricate the parts, but sparingly;
- remove metal particles from the housing;
- make sure everything is folded correctly;
- install the housing in place.
Here is where a master disassembles a Makita hammer drill in 5 minutes:
Bosch rotary hammer repair
Bosch is a rotary hammer with a long service life, but sometimes even the most famous brands need to be repaired.
So, what malfunctions can this hammer have:
- in order not to disassemble the instrument in vain, first ring the cord, its damage may cause a stop;
- if the cord is ok, check the armature and stator. To do this, unscrew the cover from the back and first simply inspect and then test;
- when disassembling the upper assembly, perform the work in the following sequence: rubber tip, lock washer, head, spring, ball;
- dismantle the housing and switch;
- Bosch's Achilles heel is the compressor ring and the striker that pushes the drill. Most often it is your own fault when you think that the harder you press, the better the tool will work. But everything is just the opposite. You press harder and reduce the stroke of the firing pin, the strikes become more frequent and, as a result, the firing pin becomes unusable;
- If you do not periodically lubricate the drill shank, the O-rings and the striker will fail more often.
The technology, in general, differs little from that used in the repair of other brands of rotary hammers.
The video will convey the subtleties of rotary hammer repair better than any description:
Do-it-yourself repair of a Makita 2450 rotary hammer - instructions
The assembly of any mechanism should begin after careful preparation. It is necessary to prepare not only the parts, but also the tools, location, and lubricant.
Tools you can't do without pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, and a brush for applying lubricant.
What is the assembly diagram for the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer?
Assembling a Makita rotary hammer with your own hands can only be done if you follow the included instructions.
The task of the assembly process is to replace failed parts with suitable ones and ensure the interchangeability and operability of the tool.
Assembly procedure for the Makita 2450 rotary hammer
Impact mechanism assembly
How to assemble the impact mechanism of a Makita rotary hammer?
The impact mechanism is assembled from two units: a barrel shaft with a spur gear and an intermediate shaft with a rolling bearing.
A). A spur gear, pos. 19, is put on the barrel, pos. 21, and pressed by a compression spring, pos. 18.
To fix the spring, it is pressed with washer 30, pos. 17, and secured with retaining ring 28, pos. 16. 
B). To assemble the striker, you need to put ring 9, pos. 25, on the striker shaft, tighten the rubber ring, pos. 26, and press it with the metal ring, pos. 27.
Now we move to the opposite side of the barrel, pos. 21. On the other hand, the inner surface of the barrel must be lubricated with grease and the assembled firing pin, pos. 24, must be inserted inside.
Assembling the intermediate shaft assembly
To assemble the intermediate shaft, you need to put the rolling bearing pos. 41 on the shaft pos. 40 with the teeth to the shaft splines, and put the coupling pos. 39 on the shaft splines.
On the opposite side of the shaft, a helical gear 26 pos. 42, a flat washer 8 pos. 45, a bearing 608zz pos. 46 and a retaining ring 8 pos. 47 are put on.
The intermediate shaft is assembled.
Assembling the gearbox assembly
The gearbox unit is mounted on the internal housing, pos. 49.
By the way, there are cases when the axles jump out of the internal aluminum housing. Both axles are pressed into the housing.
The assembled intermediate shaft is inserted into the housing, pos. 49, the rolling bearing arm of which should fit into the hole in the cylinder hinge. 
In this case, the rolling bearing lever, pos. 41, of the intermediate shaft must fit into the cylinder hinge, pos. 32, and the lower bearing of the intermediate shaft into the seat in the housing. This procedure is usually performed by rocking the structure until the parts completely fall into the indicated places.
Installing the mode switch lever
The mode switch is designed to move the clutch, pos. 39, to various positions and transmit translational motion to the shaft of the impact mechanism through the rolling bearing, pos. 41, to the cylinder, pos. 32.
Assembly of the mode switch lever for the Makita 2450 rotary hammer
On the axis of the inner housing you need to put the mode switch lever pos. 82 on top, press the pressure spring pos. 88 on top, and press it with a flat washer pos. 87. Install the locking ring pos.86. and fix it.
The retaining ring must be carefully secured.
When turning the intermediate shaft, you must carefully check the correct operation and free movement of the cylinder in the housing. This must be done now so that it does not become clear at the end of assembly that the assembly was assembled incorrectly.
Assembling the impact mechanism shaft
First you need to lubricate the inside of the cylinder, pos. 32, and insert the hammer, pos. 30, into it.
All that remains is to put the lubricated barrel assembly, pos. 21, into place in the inner housing, pos. 49, putting it on the lubricated cylinder, pos. 32.
As lubricants, it is recommended to use a special lubricant designed for Makita rotary hammers.
Lubricants are available in several types: Makita P-08361 and Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS.
Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS lubricant is recommended for the gearbox. For drill shanks, Makita 196804-7 lubricant is used.
Lubricants vary in color, but have exactly the same characteristics.
What other lubricants are used in the Makita 2450 and 2470 hammer drills?
And here we have an assembled mechanical unit.
Video of general disassembly and assembly of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer
Video: Repairing Makita HR 2450 \ Replacing the metal case \ Assembling the Makita HR2450 rotary hammer
Check its functionality by rotating the intermediate shaft and monitoring the movement of the piston in the impact mechanism. All!
Now let's lubricate all parts of the mechanical unit with the recommended lubricant.
How to repair a Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer if the shock mode has disappeared
Here is an example of how to properly apply lubricant to rotating surfaces.
Here is another example of generous lubrication of a mechanical unit.
This way it is also possible to apply lubricant. You can't spoil porridge with oil!
The lubricated mechanical unit must be covered with a black plastic case, pos. 14.
Having placed the housing on top of the assembly, press down the housing until the assembly is completely fixed in it.
Backwardness Insert four bolts, pos. 10, into the body and tighten.
Now it’s time to attach the electric motor rotor to the mechanical part.
The helical rotor gear is tightly inserted into the body of the mechanical unit and pressed.
It remains to insert four self-tapping screws m4x60 pos.57. and screw them into the electrical unit housing.
Installing electric brushes
Remove dirt from the grooves of the brush holder and install the brushes in place, securing them with the latches.
Now is the time to check the performance of the hammer drill. Connect the plug of the hammer drill to the socket, turn on the hammer briefly in the “drilling” mode. Once you are sure the tool is working, turn it off. Set the mode switch to the “impact” position. Do not insert the tool.
Check the functionality of the hammer drill in this position. At the same time, you checked the operation of the mode switch.
All that remains is to check the placement of the speed control button, make sure the contact connections are secure, and you can begin installing the cover.
The cover is secured with three Mx4 self-tapping screws of different lengths.
Connect the hammer drill to a 220 V network and check in all modes.
The Makita 2450 or 2470 rotary hammer is assembled and working properly!
| Pos. | Name | Code | Qty |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rubber tip 35 | 286263-4 | 1 |
| 2 | Ring spring 19 HR2450/ | 233940-9 | 1 |
| 3 | Clutch housing for HR2450/HR2455/ | 417629-9 | 1 |
| 4 | Ring 21 HR2450/2440/2020 | 257241-1 | 1 |
| 5 | Guide washer for HR2020/ | 345187-4 | 1 |
| 6 | Konich. compress. spring 21-29 | 233916-6 | 1 |
| 7 | Hex bolt M8x120 | 921923-8 | 1 |
| 8 | Side base. handles for HR2450/ | 417630-4 | 1 |
| 9 | GRIP 36 ASS'Y | 134943-5 | 1 |
| 10 | |||
| 11 | Side handle incl. 7,8,90 | 135302-6 | 1 |
| 12 | Self-tapping. screw, flange PT4X45 | 266069-6 | 4 |
| 13 | Mode switch cover | 417794-4 | 1 |
| 14 | Shift knob in Sat HR2450 | 162229-7 | 1 |
| 15 | O-ring 17 rubbers. for HR2450 | 213278-8 | 1 |
| 16 | Gear housing HR2450/T/F/FT, incl. |
Rotary hammer makita hr2450 disassembly video
Even very reliable Makita rotary hammers break down over time.
Any breakdown can be eliminated, you just need to have straight arms and perseverance.
In addition, hammer drills are also subject to mechanical breakdowns.
Operating rotary hammers with hard materials in a dusty environment will shorten their service life and require user intervention to perform preventive maintenance.
Repair of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer
Any tool repair begins with determining the nature of the malfunction and disassembling it.
The Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer can be repaired by a user who has basic plumbing skills and is familiar with electrical safety requirements.
This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita rotary hammer, the main faults and how to eliminate them.
Disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer
To get to the mechanical part of the hammer drill, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.
Disassembling the quick release chuck
Place the hammer drill on the back cover of the case on a table surface covered with a clean cloth or paper. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.
Carefully release the ring spring pos. 2, coupling casing pos. 3, steel ring pos. 4. You will reach a steel ball with a diameter of 7 mm, pos. 20.
Now you can remove the mechanical housing
It is black.
Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the housing. 
Holding the black body with your right hand, press your thumb on the end of the shaft from which the cartridge was disassembled. The plastic case can be easily removed.
To disconnect the mechanical part from the electrical part, you must first remove the electric brushes.
Remember! The rotor is held in the lower part of the housing by electric brushes, which must be removed.
After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the rotor slats, use a screwdriver to pry the metal housing of the hammer drill at the border of the green plastic housing.
Now we move on to disconnecting the rotor from the mechanical part of the perforator 
ra. The rotor is held in the mechanical part by helical gears of the gearbox.
If you take the rotor housing in one hand and the mechanical part housing in the other and pull in different directions, rocking, you will separate these two assemblies.
You will get a knot like this in the old grease. 
Next, use a hexagon to unscrew two M4×12 bolts, item 43, art. 266273-7 with an internal hex head.
Pull out the shaft with intermediate spur gear 10 pos. 80, art. 226399-7.
from the inner housing pos. 49, art. 153687-8. Clean the parts from old grease.
You will end up with such a mountain of clean parts. 
Now carefully look through the parts, immediately throw away the rubber rings and pick up new ones.
Replace defective parts with new ones.
Mechanical malfunctions of makita 2450 and makita 2470 rotary hammers
Common mechanical malfunctions of Makita rotary hammers include:
- destruction of the quick release chuck;
- bearing failure;
- damage to the impact mechanism;
- wear of the hammer drill barrel;
- wear of the rubber striker and striker;
- gear failure.
Repair of the hammer drill chuck is carried out to replace the boot and rubber ring, as well as the conical spring and steel ball that clamps the working tool (drill). This is indicated by the fact that the working tool? namely the drill, is poorly held in the chuck.
The main reason is wear of the steel ball 7.0 pos. 20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the cartridge bore due to dust and dirt getting inside.
The general view and design of the Makita hammer drill chuck is shown in the photo below. 
Repairing a makita 2450 hammer drill chuck with your own hands is easy. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discarded rubber parts, and replaced defective ones.
More complex faults require knowledge of the mechanical structure of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.
Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita rotary hammer, proceed to disassembling the mechanical part, called the gearbox.
Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video.
Free it from old grease.
Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, and level of wear. All rubber products require replacement during any disassembly. 
Let's consider repairing a hammer drill barrel. Let's analyze the mechanism completely.
Video of disassembling, lubricating and assembling a Makita hammer drill
Repair of parts of the Makita 2450 hammer drill barrel
Remember! The rotor is held in the lower part of the housing by electric brushes, which must be removed.
At the next stage, the rotor must be disconnected from the removed mechanism. The rotor is disconnected from the mechanism simply by pulling it out, since it is held in place by the friction of two helical gears.
It turned out to be such a dirty knot. 
Now we need to separate the impact mechanism shaft. 
Most often, the rubber rings and the firing pin, pos. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. and cylinder parts. 
This is how barrel parts wear out and break down when the tool is used incorrectly. 
Let's consider the most complex malfunction - failure of the impact mechanism.
Characteristic signs of failure of the impact mechanism are the absence of impact and the unpleasant noise of the rotary hammer operating in the “Impact” mode.
This malfunction is typical for those rotary hammers that, during operation, were strongly pressed against the surface being processed.
Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove debris and pieces of foreign objects. We find the faulty part and clean everything of old grease.
Very often the firing pin, item 24, art. 324396-8, included in the barrel. 
metal ring pos. 27. art. 324216-6. 
Discard damaged parts, replace with new ones, and cover with a thin layer of lubricant. The parts are ready for assembly. But more on that in the next article.
Of all the lines of hammer drills, I would like to focus on the model Makita HR 2450. The tool is very easy to use, has three operating modes and can withstand very long loads. The author of these lines worked faithfully and faithfully for more than six years without any breakdowns. Moreover, it was used under intense loads. But one fine moment...
As you know, nothing lasts forever. And reliable equipment breaks down. Somehow, in the midst of work, he stopped hammering. The machine was working in rotation mode, but the shock suddenly disappeared.
The gearbox was disassembled and the cause of the breakdown was identified. The bushing in the barrel body, in which the firing pin directly carries out the impact work, was broken. As a result, the striker became jammed in the fragments of the collapsed bushing.
The service center advised to replace the barrel completely. It turned out that the bushing is pressed into the barrel at the manufacturer and is not supplied separately. I had to buy a whole new barrel.
In this article we will tell you how to get the hammer drill into working condition yourself after this, in general, simple breakdown. If you have the skills to repair power tools and the desire not to pay someone your hard-earned money, then we take the tool and start disassembling the machine.
Tools
You will need two ordinary flathead screwdrivers and one Phillips head screwdriver. One of the flat-head screwdrivers should be thin and narrow, no more than 4 mm wide. You will also need a wire hook to remove the retaining ring. It can be made from a bicycle spoke, the main thing is that the wire is rigid and does not bend easily. You will also need a rubber mallet or wooden mallet.
Work process
Disassembling the hammer drill should begin by removing the protective rubber cap - boot. It can be easily removed, just grab it with your fingers and pull it off the barrel.
Removing the boot
Then, by pressing on the plastic cover and squeezing the spring of the SDS + mechanism, remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver.
Using a screwdriver, remove the stopper The cover is removed from the barrel, and behind it, compressing the spring again, we pull out the retaining ball along with the spring and the figured washer.
Disassembling the SDS mechanism After which the operating mode switch is disassembled. Under the cover that holds the red locking button, there is a special slot for a screwdriver. By inserting a screwdriver into this groove and prying the cover slightly, first from one edge and then from the other, carefully remove it. You should not apply significant effort here; the lid is still plastic and may break. The red button along with the spring is removed from the switch body, and it is moved to the left all the way, just beyond the drilling mode. It is from this position that it is removed from the gearbox. For this operation, the switch must be lightly picked up with thin screwdrivers on both sides and removed along with the rubber o-ring.
Now the gear box is removed. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four bolts connecting the box to the stator housing. Then, holding it with your hand, you need to lightly hit the end of the barrel with a mallet so that the box comes off the gearbox.
After removing the box, remove the barrel from the gearbox. It comes off easily.
Pull the barrel out of the gearbox Use a rag to remove old grease, rinse the barrel with gasoline or kerosene and wipe dry.
So, as mentioned above, it was necessary to completely change the entire barrel. However, this item purchased at the service center turned out to be “as naked as a falcon.” That is, there was absolutely nothing on it and all the parts from the old barrel had to be moved to a new “blank”.
The most difficult operation was removing the firing pin from the barrel body. There are special holes in the barrel body through which the locking ring can be seen. This ring holds the firing pin with rings and rubber dampers in the body seat. Inserting a thin screwdriver into the hole, bend the ring slightly. We do this first on one side and then on the other. The stopper should come out of the groove.
Then, from the inside, using a homemade wire hook, we pull the stopper out into the light of day.
Now you need to remove the gear from the shaft. After pressing on the washer and compressing the spring, use a thin screwdriver to remove the retaining ring from the groove. After removing it, remove the washer, spring and gear from the barrel.
Removing the gear wheel The gear wheel is put on the new barrel and engaged with the splines. Next, a spring with a washer and a stopper are installed on it. You need to insert the locking ring and fix the mechanism in the working position.
To do this, take the barrel in both hands and, resting it in your palms, forcefully compress the spring with your fingers, while simultaneously moving the washer and stopper down. You need to squeeze until the stopper fits into the groove.
Then a firing pin with washers and rubber rings is installed inside the barrel in the order in which it was disassembled. But first you need to pay attention to the condition of the drummer, his appearance.
If the firing pin has gouges and pits after a long period of work or because it was scratched by a broken bushing, then it should be sanded a little. To do this, it is clamped into the drill chuck and processed with fine-grained emery cloth. But if the irregularities are too large, then the striker will be easier to replace.
It is necessary to lubricate the striker with a special lubricant before installation and then use the lubricant during operation. When inserting a drill into a hammer drill, you need to apply a little lubricant to its shank. This extends the service life of the machine.
Having installed the firing pin mechanism into the barrel, we fix it with a locking ring. Using a screwdriver, we try to move the firing pin on both sides inside the barrel. It should move easily in the channel and not jam.
Assembling a new trunk We install the assembled barrel into the gearbox housing. Putting it on the cylinder with the piston, we engage it with the drive gear and insert it into the housing. All parts should be well lubricated during assembly.
Installing the barrel into the gearbox Then we install the gearbox, having previously lubricated the needle bearing. Using four bolts, we tighten the box to the stator housing and install the operating mode switch in place. To do this, set it in a position slightly to the left of the drilling mode.
We insert the red locking button with a spring and move the switch to the drilling mode. We snap the plastic cover and check the operation of the switch. Snap the cover of the rotary hammer mode switch
Then, as a final touch, the SDS+ mechanism is assembled. Having installed the mechanism spring, put on the figured washer and insert the ball. Then use a plastic cover to compress the spring of the mechanism and insert the retaining ring. Putting on the rubber boot is no longer difficult.
Compressing the spring with the washer, install the retaining ball 
Installing the SDS mechanism Let's try the hammer drill under load. When the machine is operating, there should be no extraneous noise in the gearbox; the operating mode switch should move easily without sticking. In general, everything should work as before the breakdown.
The author of this article hopes that it will help dear readers understand the repair of a rotary hammer. Any breakdown can be simple if you find its cause. And then everything depends on your skill and diligence.
The Makita HR2450 rotary hammer is a worthy choice. This model is top not only within its brand, but also among all similar models. In Russia, this model occupies one of the first places in sales among professional models of light hammer drills. If you encounter any problems during operation, I recommend that you immediately contact the service center while the hammer drill is under warranty; this will allow you to fix any technical problems that have arisen free of charge. The addresses of authorized service centers are indicated in the warranty card. If you do not have a warranty on the tool (for various reasons), then I still do not recommend disassembling the tool yourself. This requires certain skills and special tools and devices. At the service center, you will be given a full diagnosis, defective parts will be replaced, the mechanisms will be cleaned and lubricated, and the repairs will be guaranteed. If I still haven’t convinced you, and you decide to disassemble it yourself, then you need to understand what you want to repair. A rotary hammer has a mechanical and an electrical part. In principle, any electrician can handle electrical repairs; with the mechanical part, everything is much more complicated. Here's the diagram:
To repair a Makita HR2450 hammer drill, it is absolutely not necessary to disassemble it down to the screw; it consists of hundreds of small parts, many components and mechanisms.
Complete disassembly (due to its absolute uselessness) is not done even by Makita branded services.
This tool has an electrical part and a mechanical part, everything can be disassembled.
In general, disassembly begins with removing the handle and quick-release chuck (of course, the tool is unplugged).
Then remove the cover (4 screws) that fastens the body of the mechanical unit to the body of the hammer drill.
We unscrew the 3 screws, release the brush holder springs, take out and remove the brushes themselves, that’s it, now you can remove the mechanical unit from the housing.
We disconnect it from the rotor, dismantle the intermediate shaft, and remove the mode switch.
We disassemble the barrel shaft of the impact mechanism and so on.
The electrical part is a little easier to disassemble, especially since we have already done half the work when removing the mechanical unit (we removed the rotor, brushes, etc.).
In general, it is better to entrust the repair of such a hammer drill to service centers, and even more so, there is no need to disassemble it into its components; for local repairs of a particular unit, it is enough to disassemble the unit itself.
What kind of problems?
If the hammer drill has lost power, is unstable, sparks, there may be problems with the brushes; they can be replaced in a few minutes, without disassembling the entire hammer drill.
How to disassemble a hammer drill, and correctly!
It’s very interesting why and why to do this.
The disassembled hammer drill looks like this.
It’s not clear why, but if necessary, it’s sorted out step by step.
First, the attachments are removed (chuck, plugs, guides, handles, etc.)
Then the body of the hammer drill itself is untwisted and opened (popularly this action is called splitting) since the body is held not only by self-tapping screws, but also by fairly tight latches, the force of which will need to be overcome when opening the body halves.
In general, there is a lot of work and not a little, you would ask what specifically interests you and what are your doubts about what needs to be done correctly.
And here’s a diagram of the hammer drill parts, just in case.
To understand that there is no need to disassemble the huge number of parts that are in the Makita HR2450 rotary hammer.
It depends where the hammer drill has problems.
If this is an electrical part or a motor, then disassembly must begin from behind the hammer drill, namely, unscrew two screws 70 (1 piece) and 76 (2 pieces), remove the cover and fold away the brushes, wires with a button and other tripe. Now unscrew screws 10 (4 pieces) from the end and separate the hammer drill in half. The winding is unscrewed with screws 57. The motor itself is pressed out using pullers.
If the problem is in the mechanism, then first you need to halve the hammer drill, then remove the switch button 12 and you will have to break out the plastic crackers to get the mechanism itself. The mechanism is disassembled by removing stoppers 33 and 35 and dismantling pin 34. Next, stoppers and a puller will help.
It depends for what purpose you need to disassemble this hammer drill - lubricate it or disassemble it into all its components, down to the smallest detail? From the video below you can see that this model can be disassembled, as they say, “piece by piece” in 5 minutes, but that’s how much time it takes for a person who, apparently, knows the structure of this tool very well. I advise you to remember in detail where all the components were extracted, sign, make notes, you can even take photographs, so as not to confuse them later.
Now let's put it back together:
And here you can download the complete manual with drawings.
"Makita 2450": characteristics, assembly diagram, do-it-yourself repairs, reviews
10 charming celebrity children who look completely different today Time flies, and one day little celebrities become adults who are no longer recognizable. Pretty boys and girls turn into...
Our ancestors slept differently than we do. What are we doing wrong? It’s hard to believe, but scientists and many historians are inclined to believe that modern man sleeps completely differently than his ancient ancestors. Initially.
13 signs that you have the best husband Husbands are truly great people. What a pity that good spouses don't grow on trees. If your significant other does these 13 things, then you can s.
Top 10 Broke Stars It turns out that sometimes even the biggest fame ends in failure, as is the case with these celebrities.
Why do you need a tiny pocket on jeans? Everyone knows that there is a tiny pocket on jeans, but few have thought about why it might be needed. Interestingly, it was originally a place for storage.
7 Body Parts You Shouldn't Touch with Your Hands Think of your body as a temple: you can use it, but there are some sacred places that should not be touched with your hands. Research showing.
Rotary hammer makita hr2450 disassembly video
Weight: 2.6 kg;
Vibration protection: no;
Number of modes: 3;
Max drilling diameter (wood): 32 mm;
Max drilling diameter (metal): 13 mm;
Power: 780 W;
Impact force: 2.7 J;
Shank type: sds-plus;
Gross weight: 5.29 kg;
Max drilling diameter (concrete): 24 mm;
Max drilling diameter with crown (concrete): 50 mm;
Cable length: 4 m;
Spindle speed: 0-1100 rpm;
Impact frequency: 0-4500 beats/min;
Reverse: electronic;
Safety clutch: yes;
Max drilling diameter with crown (brick): 50 mm;
Speed adjustment: yes;
Dimensions in packaging: 480x320x100 mm;
Max impact force: 2.7 J;
Availability of chiseling mode: yes;
Equipment: suitcase/case;
Drill chuck: yes;
Product class: Professional;
Do-it-yourself repair of the Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer gearbox - the most complete review
I got to my makita HR 2450 rotary hammer, which lost its kick at the peak. There is an internal blow, but on the peak.
Disassembling the makita HR2450 rotary hammer in 5 minutes before m
Do you think it is possible to repair a rotary hammer with your own hands or is it necessary to spend money, time and stress when handing over the device for service?
Remember that company service employees are interested in the following:
- Carry out work in strict accordance with established algorithms. This means that you will spend more money than you planned.
- Force you to carry out various options for routine inspections, the need for which is questionable.
- The duty of the service is to replace all damaged parts only with branded units. All this taken together will lead to a situation where buying a new hammer drill is a more profitable solution.
Now think about the possibility of repair or scheduled preventive inspection of the rotary hammer yourself. How to do this? Let's figure it out together. The role of the “patient” will be the Makita 2450 rotary hammer model, popular among home craftsmen.
The general principles of this work are simple:
- Disassembling the hammer drill.
- Remove all old grease. dirt and dust.
- Replacement of damaged components.
- Tool assembly.
In this material we will focus only on the first and very important part of the work. Let us analyze the above model in the literal and figurative sense.
The Makita 2450 three-mode hammer drill has the following characteristics:
- It has high power and delivers a blow with a force of about 3 J.
- The design is famous for its repairability at home.
- In addition, this tool is one of the top sellers, so it’s quite possible that you have a set with it in your closet.
Before we begin to understand the nuances of the work, remember that arbitrary disassembly will damage such a necessary electrical appliance in the household.
Remove the shift lever. This is a standard procedure when disassembling household rotary hammers. Where the decorative stripes are applied, there is a cover - a hatch. It needs to be dismantled. Next, turn all the way to the position below the drilling. All that remains is to pull the lever. Remove the spring retainer from the handle. Do not use a screwdriver as a lever, as this may damage the part.
The Makita 2450 barrel has a rubber cap. To remove it, press the cartridge cover towards the gearbox.
The Makita 2450 hammer drill has a non-removable chuck. However, it can be parsed:
- Remove the retaining ring.
- We dismantle the cartridge cover and remove it from the barrel.
- Together with the cover, remove the ring locking device that holds the ball to secure the drill.
- We take out the ball.
- Now you have access to the washer, which is the ball guide. The washer and conical spring can be removed without much effort.
Next, the gear housing is removed. To do this, it remains to unscrew the four screws connecting the gearbox to the engine. Remember and put all the details in order. This will make it more convenient to assemble the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.
We carry out a thorough inspection of the nodes. We fix breakdowns. Sometimes after disassembly it turns out that the reasons for tool failure lie in the wear of rubber parts, followed by oil leakage.
That is, restore the performance of the Makita 2450, perhaps by spending time reading this article and a small amount of money to purchase the necessary part.
Agree, having mastered the technique of disassembling the popular Makita 2450 rotary hammer, you will not only save money, but also gain new skills that are needed both by a home craftsman and in demand in the construction market.
More articles on this topic:
How to repair a Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer if the shock mode has disappeared
Of all the lines of hammer drills, I would like to focus on the model Makita HR 2450. The tool is very easy to use, has three operating modes and can withstand very long loads. The author of these lines worked faithfully and faithfully for more than six years without any breakdowns. Moreover, it was used under intense loads. But one fine moment...
The hammer blow has disappeared - what to do?
As you know, nothing lasts forever. And reliable equipment breaks down. Somehow, in the midst of work, he stopped hammering. The machine was working in rotation mode, but the shock suddenly disappeared.
The gearbox was disassembled and the cause of the breakdown was identified. The bushing in the barrel body, in which the firing pin directly carries out the impact work, was broken. As a result, the striker became jammed in the fragments of the collapsed bushing.
The service center advised to replace the barrel completely. It turned out that the bushing is pressed into the barrel at the manufacturer and is not supplied separately. I had to buy a whole new barrel.
In this article we will tell you how to get the hammer drill into working condition yourself after this, in general, simple breakdown. If you have the skills to repair power tools and the desire not to pay someone your hard-earned money, then we take the tool and start disassembling the machine.
Tools
You will need two ordinary flathead screwdrivers and one Phillips head screwdriver. One of the flat-head screwdrivers should be thin and narrow, no more than 4 mm wide. You will also need a wire hook to remove the retaining ring. It can be made from a bicycle spoke, the main thing is that the wire is rigid and does not bend easily. You will also need a rubber mallet or wooden mallet.
Work process
Disassembling the hammer drill should begin by removing the protective rubber cap - boot. It can be easily removed, just grab it with your fingers and pull it off the barrel.
Then, by pressing on the plastic cover and squeezing the spring of the SDS + mechanism, remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver.
Using a screwdriver, remove the stopper
The cover is removed from the barrel, and behind it, compressing the spring again, we pull out the retaining ball along with the spring and the figured washer.
Disassembling the SDS mechanism
After which the operating mode switch is disassembled. Under the cover that holds the red locking button, there is a special slot for a screwdriver. By inserting a screwdriver into this groove and prying the cover slightly, first from one edge and then from the other, carefully remove it. You should not apply significant effort here; the lid is still plastic and may break. The red button along with the spring is removed from the switch body, and it is moved to the left all the way, just beyond the drilling mode. It is from this position that it is removed from the gearbox. For this operation, the switch must be lightly picked up with thin screwdrivers on both sides and removed along with the rubber o-ring.
Removing the rotary hammer mode switch
Now the gear box is removed. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four bolts connecting the box to the stator housing. Then, holding it with your hand, you need to lightly hit the end of the barrel with a mallet so that the box comes off the gearbox.
Removing the gear box
After removing the box, remove the barrel from the gearbox. It comes off easily.
Pull the barrel out of the gearbox
Use a rag to remove old grease, rinse the barrel with gasoline or kerosene and wipe dry.
So, as mentioned above, it was necessary to completely change the entire barrel. However, this item purchased at the service center turned out to be “as naked as a falcon.” That is, there was absolutely nothing on it and all the parts from the old barrel had to be moved to a new “blank”.
The most difficult operation was removing the firing pin from the barrel body. There are special holes in the barrel body through which the locking ring can be seen. This ring holds the firing pin with rings and rubber dampers in the body seat. Inserting a thin screwdriver into the hole, bend the ring slightly. We do this first on one side and then on the other. The stopper should come out of the groove.
Using two screwdrivers, compress the stopper
Then, from the inside, using a homemade wire hook, we pull the stopper out into the light of day.
Using a wire hook, remove the stopper from the inside.
Now you need to remove the gear from the shaft. After pressing on the washer and compressing the spring, use a thin screwdriver to remove the retaining ring from the groove. After removing it, remove the washer, spring and gear from the barrel.
Removing the gear wheel
The gear wheel is put on the new barrel and engaged with the splines. Next, a spring with a washer and a stopper are installed on it. You need to insert the locking ring and fix the mechanism in the working position.
To do this, take the barrel in both hands and, resting it in your palms, forcefully compress the spring with your fingers, while simultaneously moving the washer and stopper down. You need to squeeze until the stopper fits into the groove.
Then a firing pin with washers and rubber rings is installed inside the barrel in the order in which it was disassembled. But first you need to pay attention to the condition of the drummer, his appearance.
If the firing pin has gouges and pits after a long period of work or because it was scratched by a broken bushing, then it should be sanded a little. To do this, it is clamped into the drill chuck and processed with fine-grained emery cloth. But if the irregularities are too large, then the striker will be easier to replace.
Assemble the impact mechanism
It is necessary to lubricate the striker with a special lubricant before installation and then use the lubricant during operation. When inserting a drill into a hammer drill, you need to apply a little lubricant to its shank. This extends the service life of the machine.
Having installed the firing pin mechanism into the barrel, we fix it with a locking ring. Using a screwdriver, we try to move the firing pin on both sides inside the barrel. It should move easily in the channel and not jam.
Assembling a new trunk
We install the assembled barrel into the gearbox housing. Putting it on the cylinder with the piston, we engage it with the drive gear and insert it into the housing. All parts should be well lubricated during assembly.
Installing the barrel into the gearbox
Then we install the gearbox, having previously lubricated the needle bearing. Using four bolts, we tighten the box to the stator housing and install the operating mode switch in place. To do this, set it in a position slightly to the left of the drilling mode.
We insert the red locking button with a spring and move the switch to the drilling mode. We snap the plastic cover and check the operation of the switch.
Reinstalling the mode switch
Snap the cover of the rotary hammer mode switch
Then, as a final touch, the SDS+ mechanism is assembled. Having installed the mechanism spring, put on the figured washer and insert the ball. Then use a plastic cover to compress the spring of the mechanism and insert the retaining ring. Putting on the rubber boot is no longer difficult.
Compressing the spring with the washer, install the retaining ball
Installing the SDS mechanism
Let's try the hammer drill under load. When the machine is operating, there should be no extraneous noise in the gearbox; the operating mode switch should move easily without sticking. In general, everything should work as before the breakdown.
The author of this article hopes that it will help dear readers understand the repair of a rotary hammer. Any breakdown can be simple if you find its cause. And then everything depends on your skill and diligence.
