Other

Is it possible to bake pies in a slow cooker? Fried pies with potatoes and onions

Pruning apple trees in the fall, the patterns of which will be discussed below, is one of the important measures for caring for fruit trees. If garden plantings are not subjected to annual thinning, the fruits will become small, degenerate, and the trees will thicken and become sick. Many novice gardeners are faced with the question of when is it better to prune apple trees: in autumn or spring? In order to perform the procedure correctly, you need to understand in more detail the timing, diagrams and many other important points.

Why does an apple tree need pruning?

Some garden lovers do not pay due attention to their plantings, as a result of which fruiting decreases, the quality of the fruit deteriorates, and even the death of the tree is possible. The thing is that caring for fruit trees comes down not only to watering and fertilizing, but also to measures to thin the crown, remove damaged and dry branches, and young growth. Many gardeners do not know about this procedure or simply forget to do it. Trimming the branches of an apple tree stimulates proper growth of the crop, and a beautiful crown is formed. When pruning a tree, more light is brought into it.

In general, the procedure has many goals:

strengthen young shoots;
remove diseased and old branches, which will be replaced by young and healthy ones, i.e. the tree will rejuvenate;
form the correct crown;
increase the number of fruiting branches;
provide better access to sunlight to fruits;
prepare the apple tree for winter.

Annual pruning of young apple trees contributes to the formation of a high-quality harvest. For old trees, this procedure is more life-saving and prolongs life.

When is the best time to prune?

A completely logical question arises: when to prune apple trees: in spring or autumn? First of all, you need to know that the procedure begins when there is no sap flow in the plant. To rejuvenate the tree, it is done in the spring. If other goals are pursued, then pruning is performed both in spring and autumn. In the spring, branches that are damaged are removed to form a crown; in the fall, rotten branches must be removed, thus preparing the tree for winter.

Pruning apple trees in the autumn should be carried out after the leaves have fallen and completed before the onset of frost. If the cut area does not dry out before the temperature drops below zero, it may freeze and deteriorate the condition of the tree. Therefore, such work is not recommended to be done in cold weather, since wound healing processes cannot take place. In autumn, you can prune an apple tree in different ways, depending on the age of the tree:

Young apple trees are pruned by removing 1/4 of the branches that have grown during one season.
On apple trees between 5 and 7 years old, 1/3 of the branches of the current season are removed.
Pruning old apple trees in the fall involves removing ½ of the branches. This is necessary for thinning the crown.

When pruning in spring, the procedure must be completed before sap flow, the growth of new shoots and the appearance of buds. Depending on the region, the event falls between late March and early April. Spring pruning involves removing:

branches growing inside the crown;
damaged branches and twigs;
branches rubbing against each other, which will interfere with the normal development of the crown;
non-fruiting shoots.

Summer pruning is rarely resorted to. As a rule, sanitary and preventive purposes are pursued with this procedure. During this period, it is convenient to adjust the shape of the crown when the branches are covered with leaves.

Trimming tools

An important step in preparing for tree pruning is the choice of tools. They should be sharp and easy to use, i.e. fits well in the hand. A correctly selected and well-sharpened tool will allow you to perform pruning quickly and efficiently. A gardener's arsenal should not be limited to just one pruner. Other tools that should be available are a hacksaw, an air pruner and a gasoline saw. When choosing pruners, attention is paid to sharpening, weight, convenience and performance of the mechanism. If the garden shears do not fit your hand or are difficult to work, then the work of pruning trees will turn into torture.

A hacksaw designed for carpentry work is not suitable for pruning fruit trees. The fact is that a construction saw seriously damages wood tissue. For the purposes in question, it is recommended to purchase a good hacksaw. In addition to regular garden shears, you can buy an air pruner. Thanks to the telescopic design of the handles, it is possible to trim branches at height without using a ladder. If there are old fruit trees in the garden, then it is quite appropriate to use a chainsaw to trim thick branches. In addition, you need to purchase safety glasses and gloves, because personal safety should come first.

Apple tree pruning diagram

Autumn pruning of apple trees in the Moscow region, as well as in other regions, begins with the selection and removal of dry and old branches of the apple tree. Such branches are quite easy to identify: they have a dry structure and cracked bark. Then they proceed to the top of the tree, removing twigs, damaged and broken branches. Branches that are located inside the crown and have shoots growing at an angle, as well as intertwining with each other, must be removed. If we talk specifically about the pruning scheme, the process depends on the age of the tree. An apple tree, as a rule, begins to bear fruit at 5 years old, and the tree itself is mature. During this period, attention is paid to the older branches, which are strong enough to produce fruit. Only dry and damaged parts need to be removed.

If the apple tree is young, pruning the lower part is not recommended. For proper development of the crown of a young seedling, only the top is cut off. Treatment of cut sites is carried out within 24 hours, and on old trees immediately after the procedure. If pruning is performed after planting the seedling, then this process does not need to be returned for 3-5 years. There are situations when it is necessary to remove only very overgrown branches or those that are damaged or dried out. To treat cut areas, use garden pitch or garden paste. Such compositions can not only close the wounds, but also help the tree recover faster from this surgical procedure. If large cuts have been made, after applying the garden varnish, the area must be wrapped in polyethylene, which is secured with electrical tape. After some time, the film is removed, leaving only garden putty.

How to prune a tree to increase yield?

Every gardener strives to ensure that the plantings in his garden bring as much harvest as possible. But for this, trees need proper and timely care. Some are of the opinion that if the plants bear fruit well, then no pruning is needed. This reasoning is actually wrong. High yields occur only in the first 3 years, after which there will be a sharp decline. The crown has a special influence on fruiting. Its formation and pruning must be done from the moment the tree is planted on the site. The crown should not be allowed to thicken or grow in height. A dense crown will prevent the normal penetration of sunlight inside, which will negatively affect the development of fruits. In addition, trees with a dense crown are more difficult to care for. All this leads to frequent illnesses.

To the above, it is worth adding that pruning is also carried out in order to direct the growth of branches in the right direction. If the branches grow chaotically, this not only reduces the yield, but also complicates its collection. In this case, all branches directed strictly downward or upward must be removed. Since fruits form on horizontal shoots, they are not removed. If there is such a need, the branches are trimmed a little to avoid damage during a bountiful harvest.

If you plan to prune an old apple tree in the fall, then this procedure will make the tree healthier and improve its fruiting. As a result, young fruit-bearing shoots begin to develop and various diseases are prevented. It is better to subject an old apple tree to a similar procedure in the fall. First of all, damaged, dry branches directed inward to the crown must be removed. The latter prevent the normal development of young shoots. With an old tree they act more radically, but heavy pruning of fruit-bearing branches must be avoided. This technology will provide a much greater effect than removing young fruit-bearing shoots. If there are skeletal branches that are growing incorrectly, then they must be removed, because they interfere not only with harvesting, but also with the development of other branches.

Pruning an apple tree in spring

How to properly prune an apple tree in spring? The procedure has certain rules that must be followed to preserve fruiting and plant activity. First of all, after trimming, the cut areas need to be treated with garden varnish or, in extreme cases, with oil paint. Young shoots are pruned above the axillary buds so that the cut with one edge coincides with the level of the bud, and the other is located 1 cm above it. When forming the crown of a fruit tree, pruning is done so that the lower branches are 20-30 cm longer than the next ones. The central conductor should be long. Last year's shoots are removed.

Pruning apple trees in the spring, the diagram and sequence of actions of which will be described below, depends on the type of apple tree:

if dwarf or low-growing varieties are subjected to the procedure, then the branches are cut into 2 eyes;
medium-sized shoots are shortened by 4-5 eyes;
Tall apple trees are pruned into 7 eyes.

Timely care and pruning of fruit trees allows you to harvest a decent harvest of good quality. It is also possible to avoid all kinds of diseases of garden plants. The main thing in the pruning process is not to rush: radical or thoughtless removal of branches will only harm the plant. If you have insufficient experience, it is better to contact a knowledgeable gardener who will carry out all the necessary activities properly.

Almost every gardener has apple trees on his property. However, not everyone knows how to properly prune an apple tree and at what time to do such pruning. But the harvest of your trees depends on this. Apple trees are pruned at different times: in spring, autumn, and sometimes in summer. When pruning in spring, remove all frozen and broken branches. Then the tree will not waste energy on them at the beginning of the growing season. With the help of such spring pruning, the crown of the tree is formed. In addition, spring pruning stimulates an increase in fruit yield.

Methods for autumn pruning apple trees

In the fall, after the leaves have fallen from the trees, autumn pruning is carried out before. When preparing a tree for winter, old, rotten, broken and cracked branches are cut off. It is recommended to complete autumn pruning before the onset of frost, since if you cut a branch in frost, the wound will take a very long time to heal.

There are three methods of autumn pruning of apple trees: weak, medium and strong.

For young trees, light pruning is used: to do this, branches that have grown over the season are shortened by a quarter of their length. In the spring they will give new shoots and thus the crown of the apple tree will be formed.
To care for mature apple trees, medium pruning is used, which increases the number of fruit-bearing branches. With this pruning, strong branches are shortened by one third of their length. This pruning is also used as a rejuvenating pruning for old apple trees.
Heavy pruning is used to thin out the tree, allowing free access of sunlight to the fruit. To do this, the branches are shortened by half their length.

Pruning old apple trees in autumn

Today the issue of pruning old trees is very relevant. Like all living things, the apple tree also ages, the growth of its shoots slows down and its yield decreases. To extend its fruiting period, the tree must be subjected to anti-aging pruning. When can you prune an old apple tree? It is better to rejuvenate an old tree gradually, over 2 years. First, the crown is heavily thinned. Then the skeletal branches that are outdated or dried out are shortened. To reduce the crown and improve its illumination, the upper part of the trunk is cut off. The upper branches are pruned more strongly, and the lower ones - less.

Here's how to properly prune apple trees in the fall:

remove all large broken and dry branches;
if the branches are located very close to each other, then the weakest of them should be cut out;
cut off all branches that grow at an acute angle;
cover all cuts with garden varnish or, as a last resort, oil paint;
collect and burn all cut branches.

When pruning apple trees, certain rules must be followed in order not to harm the tree through inept actions. Under no circumstances should branches be cut at their very base. This can cause the formation of a hollow in place of a dried branch, which, in turn, can lead to the death of the tree. To do this operation correctly, you must first cut the branch to the first bud from the trunk. Then, using a fine-toothed saw, cut the resulting stump from the base towards the top of the branch. The resulting cut is required processed with garden varnish. This way the apple tree will not lose its juices through these cuts. If the weather is rainy, the varnish treatment should be repeated.

All tools for pruning apple trees must be sharp. Otherwise, the edges of the wound will be “shaggy” and it will take longer to heal. Thin branches are cut with pruning shears, and thicker branches with a saw. It should be remembered that the cut should be processed immediately only for old dry branches, but when cutting young nets, you should wait a day and only then lubricate the wounds of the tree.

In addition to pruning in the fall, many gardeners carry out.

Technology for pruning apple trees of different ages and at different stages of crown formation

What is fruit tree pruning and why is it needed?

Tree pruning- a special procedure carried out to influence the shape of the tree crown. Thanks to pruning, you can maintain a tree in a healthy condition and at the same time get maximum yield with minimal ripening time.

When pruning, you need to follow a number of rules and techniques so as not to harm the tree through incorrect actions. The formation of the crown begins from the seedling period, and is subsequently carried out throughout the life of the garden crop. Pruning issues must be approached carefully and taking into account accumulated experience. We should not forget that each tree requires an individual approach, depending on its age, condition, level of fruiting, crown configuration, etc. The apple tree pruning scheme is generally similar to a similar procedure for other fruit trees, for example.

When to prune apple trees? Apple trees are pruned as needed.

What do you need to prune an apple tree?

To properly trim an apple tree, you need to have a tool, a garden varnish (or its substitute) and an understanding of pruning techniques.

1) Tool.

Usually this is a pruning shear, garden hacksaw or garden knife. The tool must be very well sharpened so as not to leave uneven and torn surfaces - they will cause slow and difficult healing of the cut. Therefore, before trimming, it is advisable to check the tool once again and, if necessary, sharpen it.

2) Garden var.

The method of preparing garden varnish is not discussed here; this is material for a separate article, and as for the varnish substitute, we can say that oil paint based on drying oil is suitable for its quality. Other types of paints are not suitable - using them will cause damage to the wood.

3) Cutting technique.

The main concept in the pruning technique is the ring structure. What does this mean? Branches that deviate from the trunk or parent (in relation to them) branches at an angle of more than thirty degrees have a special influx in the area of their base. This influx has a ring shape. Its important feature is that the cells that make up the ring have the ability to actively and quickly multiply. This makes it possible heal a wound quickly appeared at the cut site.

Pruning above the ring is allowed only if part of the central conductor is removed and other branches need to be tied to it. But this is allowed only for a short period of time, after which it is necessary to re-prun, this time “to the ring”.

The cut area is covered with garden varnish or its substitute.

What does pruning “to the outer bud” and pruning “to the inner bud” mean?

Sometimes an apple or pear tree may be incompletely pruned. There are two different methods for this pruning:

1) On the outer kidney.

If the top bud is left, pointing outwards (i.e. from the center of the tree or the central conductor), then this is pruning to the outer bud. The purpose of such pruning is to expand the crown or reduce the density of its center.

2) On the inner kidney.

When the last, uppermost bud remaining after pruning is directed towards the axis of the tree, towards the center of the crown, this is pruning to the inner bud. The purpose of pruning on the inner bud is to strengthen the center of the crown or lift a branch whose growth has gone down too much.

Dear visitors, save this article on social networks. We publish very useful articles that will help you in your business. Share! Click!

How to prune correctly?

When branches are cut with a garden saw, you need to adjust the cut location using a sharp garden knife: “fringe” on the bark is unacceptable. This correction will enable the plant to heal the wound faster.

Technique for working with a hacksaw when pruning: first of all, the branch is sawed from below, at a distance of 25-30 cm from the ring, a third in depth, and after that the hacksaw is moved 2-3 cm to the side and sawing is carried out from above. Then the branch must be removed, and the stump is removed onto a ring, trimmed using a garden knife and covered with garden varnish.

How to prune a bud correctly?

The bud pruning technique is important, although it is not very complicated. The knife is wound from the side of the branch that is opposite to the bud, and at the same time below the base of the bud (1-2 mm). Then a cut is made at an angle of 45° upward towards the kidney, but in such a way that the knife passes a few millimeters above the location of the kidney. To carry out such pruning, you need to grab the branch from below with one hand, and with the other hand, trim with a sharp and confident movement.

How to prune young apple trees?

Post-planting pruning of young apple trees can be severe if the seedling is in a temporary place. When transplanted to a permanent place (next year), it will be fine.

If a young apple tree grows in its permanent place, pruning should be as careful as possible. This is necessary so that the tree retains more foliage, quickly restores the root system (which is damaged at the time of replanting), and forms a crown faster and more confidently.

First cut rules:

1) Competing branches are removed entirely, into a ring, so that no stump remains, which can cause the buds to grow and the formation of tops.

2) If the main branches are too long, they need to be shortened. If the crown of the tree looks pyramidal, then pruning should be done to the outer bud (in relation to the central conductor), and if the crown is spreading, then pruning should be done to the inner bud.
The height of the elevation of the central conductor for a tree with a spreading crown should be within 10-15 cm, and for a pyramidal shape - 20 cm.

3) Weights are hung on the lowest (additional) branches so that they assume a horizontal position.

4) Pruning should not be done unless necessary. You can change the direction and position of branches without pruning. For example, thin and weak branches can be tied to the central conductor so that they are positioned vertically. Strong and powerful branches can be bent to the ground, positioned horizontally.

5) The lowest branches of the seedling can be placed at a height of 50 cm above ground level. But they should not be allowed to be placed at the height of the last quarter, otherwise the tree will grow too tall, which will create a lot of inconvenience when harvesting and caring for the apple tree. Radical pruning will help against this: at a height of 70-80 cm, the seedling is cut off, leaving only a bare trunk. New branches will begin to grow from hidden buds, from which a crown should be formed.

6) Basic rules for crown formation:

A) The main position should be occupied by the central conductor (it may not be completely vertical, a slight deviation is allowed).

b) The central conductor should not have competitors.

V) The distribution of the main branches around the trunk should be uniform and their development should be approximately the same.

The foundations for crown formation are laid during the first pruning after planting the seedling.

How to prune an apple tree before fruiting?

Before the tree begins to bear fruit, you need to have time to form the main branches in a special way. They should not interfere with each other, like small new branches, and the crown should be able to withstand a load of 100-150 kg (the weight of apples). In addition to this task, pruning helps to bring the fruiting period closer. However, you should not get too carried away, because the yield will be higher with regular minor pruning over several years, but with intensive one-time pruning, the yield will decrease.

In some varieties of apple trees, fruiting tends to move to the periphery of the crown. To prevent this from happening, the branches need to be shortened, otherwise forks and their breaks will begin to appear.

Other apple trees prefer to thicken their crown. It is not recommended to shorten branches with them, otherwise the problem will worsen. Instead, you need to thin out the crown of such apple trees.

If the apple tree has reached a certain height (2-4 meters, maximum 6) and its further growth is undesirable, then it is recommended to trim the central conductor from above, then its functions will transfer to one of the side branches (usually the second or third from the top).

If the apple tree does not produce a harvest for a long time (idle), then pruning is undesirable. The main measure of crown formation should be bending, and thinning can be used in subsequent years.

How is apple trees pruned during fruiting?

The most important rule- Pruning regularly. You must not miss the moment, otherwise in 1-2 years there will be a need to remove large branches, and this, in turn, will activate and enhance the growth of small ones. The main pruning scheme is as follows: the crown should be moderately thinned and strong upward growth should be blocked.

If you find tops that have no perspective, they need to be cut into a ring.

As the apple tree begins to age, its fruits become smaller and the frequency of fruiting increases. To rejuvenate a tree, you can use chasing - this is a procedure for pruning all branches whose ends have already greatly slowed down their growth (less than 20-25 cm).

How should you prune old apple trees?

An old tree will not withstand sharp and forceful pruning. Therefore, it needs to be carried out in several stages, over the course of years, gradually. 1-2 powerful but non-fruit-bearing branches are removed. Before this, you need to choose a leader - where the central conductor is located, and where the side main branches are. With gradual pruning, the density of the crown decreases, too sharp forks are removed, broken and diseased branches are cut into a ring.

To rejuvenate the apple tree, you can use some of the tops. The remaining ones should be removed onto the ring. The pruning procedure is completed by cleaning the trunk and branches - you need to remove old and dead bark.
Autumn pruning of apple trees should be carried out before the onset of frost. Old, rotten and diseased branches are removed.

And a little about secrets...

Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:

inability to move easily and comfortably;
discomfort when going up and down stairs;
unpleasant crunching, clicking not of your own accord;
pain during or after exercise;
inflammation in the joints and swelling;
causeless and sometimes unbearable aching pain in the joints...

Now answer the question: are you satisfied with this? Can such pain be tolerated? How much money have you already wasted on ineffective treatment? That's right - it's time to end this! Do you agree? That is why we decided to publish an exclusive interview with Professor Dikul, in which he revealed the secrets of getting rid of joint pain, arthritis and arthrosis.