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Which pump to use for water supply to a private home. Selecting a pump for water supply to a private home - what to pay special attention to

You open the tap and water flows out of it in a sluggish stream. It’s still enough to wash your hands or rinse the dishes, but it’s no longer possible to take a full shower. The situation is even worse with complex household appliances - the gas water heater simply does not start, and the notorious “Error” is displayed on the displays of the washing machine or dishwasher.

The situation is very sad, but, alas, quite common. Residents of apartments in city high-rise buildings face this problem to a greater extent - during peak water collection hours, the pressure in the water supply on the upper floors drops sharply. But owners of houses “on the ground” connected to city water supply networks are not at all immune from this - we have to admit that the quality of public services is often still very far from acceptable indicators. This means that some measures need to be taken.

It would seem that the solution is obvious. It is necessary to install a pump to increase the water pressure, and the problem will go away on its own. However, such a measure often becomes a “half solution,” that is, it does not completely resolve the issue. And in some cases, installing just such a pump becomes a waste of money, since a more in-depth, systematic approach is required.

In the technical documentation of pumping equipment, in articles and descriptions on this topic, on instrument scales, various units of pressure in the water supply system may be used. To immediately clarify this issue, here is a small table that will help you navigate in the future:

	Bar	Technical atmosphere (at)	Water column meter	Kilopascal (kPa)
1 bar	1	1.0197	10.2	100
1 technical atmosphere (at)	0.98	1	10	98.07
1 meter of water column	0.098	0.1	1	9.8
1 kilopascal (kPa)	0.01	0.0102	0.102	1

We don’t need too high an accuracy at the everyday level, so to assess your conditions, with a completely acceptable level of error, you can get by with an approximate ratio:

1 bar ≈ 1 at ≈ 10 m aq. Art. ≈ 100 kPa ≈ 0.1 MPa

So, what pressure is considered normal for a home plumbing network?

According to current regulations, water must be supplied to the end consumer at a pressure of approximately 4 bar. With this pressure, the operation of almost all existing plumbing and household appliances will be ensured - from ordinary taps and flush tanks to hydromassage showers or bathtubs.

However, in practice such even pressure is extremely rare. Moreover, deviations to a smaller or larger direction can be very significant. Both phenomena can seriously affect the correct operation of the home water supply system. Thus, if the threshold of 6–7 bar is exceeded, depressurization may occur at pipe connections and shut-off and control valves. With surges up to 10 bar, there is a high probability of more serious accidents.

But dealing with high pressure, in principle, is not difficult - it is enough to install a special device at the entrance to a house or apartment, a reducer, which will equalize the pressure in the internal water supply distribution and eliminate the phenomenon of water hammer. If you select or configure the reducer correctly, the optimal water pressure will be maintained at all water intake points.

The problem is much more acute if there is a systematic lack of water pressure in the system. And here, first of all, it’s worth trying to figure out what is causing this phenomenon. Well, for this you need, first of all, to have a clear idea of what the pressure is in your local home water supply, whether it changes depending on the time of day or the point of water supply, how things are, for example, with neighbors on the landing and on the riser - above and below . Such information will greatly clarify the picture.

The easiest way, of course, is to measure pressure using a conventional pressure gauge. Such a device is not so expensive, and it makes sense to install it permanently at the entrance to an apartment or house. It’s even better to install a mesh wash filter for coarse water purification at the inlet with a built-in pressure gauge - two problems are solved at once. All that remains is for a certain period to regularly take and record readings approximately four times a day - during peak consumption hours in the evening and morning, in “normal” daytime and at night. Then a preliminary analysis of the situation can be carried out.

You can have a portable pressure gauge on your farm or rent it from friends. It is easy to temporarily connect it, for example, using a flexible connection, to the water sockets of faucets or even directly to the spouts, if the threaded connection allows.

You can also make a homemade simple pressure gauge, which, despite the primitive design, is nevertheless capable of giving very accurate results.

To make such a device, you will need a transparent plastic tube about 2000 mm long. Its diameter does not matter much - the main thing is that it is convenient to make a sealed connection with a fitting that will be screwed, for example, onto a faucet spout instead of a splitter nozzle.

Before starting the measurement, the tube is connected to the tap (in principle, it can be any other water outlet) and is positioned vertically. The water is started briefly, and then a position is achieved so that the liquid level is approximately on the same horizontal line with the connection point, so that there is no air gap on the tap side (shown in the diagram - left fragment). In this position, the height of the air section of the tube is measured ( ho).

Then the upper hole of the cabin is tightly closed with a plug to prevent air from escaping. The tap is opened fully. The water, compressing the air column, will rise. When the position stabilizes, in a minute or two, all that remains is to measure the experimental height of the air column ( heh).

Given these two values, it is easy to calculate the pressure using the following formula:

Rv = Ro × (ho/he)

Rv– pressure in the water supply at a given point.

Ro– initial pressure in the tube. It would not be a big mistake to mistake it for atmospheric, that is, 1.0332 at.

ho And he – air column height values obtained experimentally

Calculator for experimental determination of pressure in a water supply system

Enter the results of two measurements and get the result

Atmospheric

Ho - height of the air column before opening the tap, mm

He is the height of the air column with the tap fully open, mm

If measurements are taken at several points and the readings are different, then this is a sure sign that the possible cause of insufficient pressure on a particular plumbing or household appliance lies in defects in the internal water supply wiring itself. It is possible that the old pipes are completely overgrown with rust or limescale, and no additional equipment will change the situation - the piping will have to be changed.

To demand normal pressure from such a water supply system is simply naive

The reason for the drop in pressure can be filters that have not been changed or cleaned for a long time - and carrying out appropriate prevention will immediately put everything in place.

You should compare the readings with similar parameters in neighboring apartments located at the same level - they should be approximately equal. Sometimes this helps to identify a problem that lies in the water riser.

It would be nice to find out the state of affairs in the neighboring apartments vertically - to what extent the problem of low pressure affects them. As the floor height increases, the pressure (in meters of water column) should decrease by approximately the excess value.

And finally, if, of course, it is possible, it is advisable to find out the pressure on the “loungers” of the house, that is, on the collectors in the basement to which risers in the entrances are connected. It is possible that the utility companies are fulfilling their obligations, and the water pressure to the risers is normal.

This means that the area of the problem will be localized - often the “instigator” of all the troubles becomes the owner of the apartment living down the same riser, who, when carrying out repairs in his bathroom, narrowed the diameter of the pipe for one reason or another - “it’s cheaper”, “it’s more convenient and beautiful” , “that’s what an experienced plumber suggested,” or even “everything is fine with me, and the rest doesn’t bother me.” Here you will either have to come to a good agreement, or take administrative measures through public utilities.

If the pressure on the house collector is also weak, you should “seek the truth” from the utility companies, since the quality of the service they provide does not meet the requirements. Whether anything will be achieved is still a big question, since you can hear a lot of reasons: from the need to replace main pipelines to the current impossibility of installing new pumping equipment to replace the outdated one.

What can you do?

If all the steps taken in the “administrative plan” have not yielded results, and pressure is not enough to ensure the correct operation of plumbing and household appliances, technological measures will have to be taken. This is where the installation of one or another additional equipment will be required. But, again, to say that a pump to increase water pressure will become a panacea would be naive.

Such a measure will only become effective if water always flows almost uninterruptedly, but its pressure is not enough to operate household appliances. For example, the owner of a private house connected to a main line, in which there is a constant pressure of no higher than 1 - 1.5 bar, will be able to install a pump at the entrance to the house or even in front of the water collection point, which requires higher levels. To some extent, this is also acceptable in urban multi-storey buildings, but again - with a stable water supply, but with a “deficit” of pressure.

If the “dips” in pressure reach the point that on the upper floors there is often a complete loss of water from the taps, the booster pump will not justify itself in any way. Firstly, he needs to “rely” on the minimum permissible pressure in the pipe for a given model in order to produce the required value at the output, and he will not be able to create anything from emptiness. Secondly, by increasing the pressure, the pump necessarily creates a certain vacuum behind. If there is insufficient pressure, a tap open on any lower floor turns into a “hole” through which air can be sucked in. The pump will start trying to pump air, and in the best case, if it is equipped with a dry-running protection system, it will simply turn off constantly, but if not, it will quickly burn out. And thirdly, while somehow improving the situation in his apartment, the owner of the pump unwittingly worsens the situation in the neighboring ones.

What is the way out? There are several of them, but not all of them will be easy to implement.

1. Install a pumping station operating in automatic mode, preferably with a hydraulic storage membrane tank of the maximum possible volume. The main element of such a station is a self-priming centrifugal pump, that is, capable of independently, even with “zero” inlet pressure, lifting water from a certain depth (for example, from a basement collector or an autonomous source) and creating a very significant pressure at the outlet.

The pressure switch usually included in the station kit will ensure that the pump motor is turned on only when the pressure in the home (apartment) water supply drops below the set level. The storage tank will create a reserve supply of water, which will also be under pressure and consumed in cases where the water supply to the main line is temporarily interrupted.

Thus, the pumping station lifts water upward, creates the necessary pressure in the system, and provides a certain supply of water. The larger the volume of the storage tank, the less often the pump will turn on.

The solution is excellent, one might say optimal for private households, but in multi-storey buildings it can pose a lot of difficulties. If the pressure in the risers is weak, then many residents of the upper floors suffer from this. If they begin to get out of the situation in the indicated way, then real competition “for the stream” will flare up in the house, since the total amount of incoming water will still be insufficient for everyone. Again the same situation as mentioned above - sucking water out of the pipes will lead to airing with all the ensuing consequences. In this case, scandals and proceedings, “denunciations” against each other to the operating organization or to the “vodokanal” are inevitable. And installing such a station without the knowledge of utility workers may well result in a hefty fine, since the equipment introduces an imbalance into the overall operation of the house’s plumbing system.

There is one more limitation: self-priming pumps are usually limited in depth (in the case of a high-rise building - height) of water lift - about 7 ÷ 8 meters. That is, for the first or second floor it’s suitable, the third is a stretch, and higher it’s unlikely to cope.

2. Install a large, non-pressure tank in your home so that it is constantly replenished during normal water supply hours, even if the pressure is insufficient. A simple float valve will prevent the tank from overfilling.

If such a container of at least 200 ÷ 500 liters can be installed at ceiling height, then water from it will either flow by gravity to the water collection points, in front of which it is already possible to install conventional compact pressure booster pumps, or it will be possible to mount a booster pump at the common outlet of the container a pump whose power and performance will be sufficient for all consumer devices. As an option, a compact pumping station with a small-volume hydraulic accumulator, which will already be powered from a storage tank. In this case, you don’t have to lift the tank up, but find the most convenient place for it for the existing conditions.

The main obstacle to the implementation of such a project is the cramped conditions of standard city apartments: there is simply nowhere to install even the largest container. Again, this solution seems optimal for a private developer.

However, it is quite possible that it will be possible to cooperate with neighbors who also have a similar problem to install a collective large-capacity storage tank, for example, in the attic of a house. The scheme will be the same - water flows to each apartment by gravity, and then the owners themselves decide at which points they need to install a booster pump.

A possible solution to the problem is to install a collective storage tank

3. The third option also involves cooperation - using the collected funds, installing a powerful pumping station with an impressive storage tank and a hydraulic accumulator, so that the power and productivity of the equipment is enough for the entire riser. Thus, in the basement it will be possible to have a significant free-flow and pressurized supply of water, and all residents will equally receive it in the required quantity and with the required pressure.

It is clear that this is easy to say, but very difficult to implement, since it can be extremely difficult to persuade people. Nevertheless, there are plenty of examples of such collective interaction between residents of the house.

Now that the main possible applications of pumps that increase water pressure have been considered, we can turn to a review of the equipment.

Selecting a pump to increase water pressure

So, if the situation can be completely corrected only by installing a pump to increase water pressure, then you need to know how to choose the right device.

All pumps of this class can be divided into two large groups - these are devices with a dry and wet rotor.

Pumps with a wet rotor are more compact, less noisy, and do not require any preventive maintenance, since all rubbing parts are lubricated by the pumped liquid. They are installed directly by inserting into a pipe, for example, in front of a household appliance or water collection point, and do not require any additional fastenings.

A typical representative of wet rotor pumps

Their disadvantage is their low productivity and the additional water pressure created. In addition, there are restrictions on the installation method - the rotor axis of the pump electric drive must be located in a horizontal position.

Pumps with a dry rotor can be immediately distinguished even externally due to their pronounced asymmetrical shape - the power unit is placed to the side, which has its own air cooling system - a fan impeller located on the axis. This arrangement most often involves additional cantilever mounting of the device to the wall surface.

Dry rotor pumps usually require additional wall mounting

Such devices usually have higher performance characteristics, and with proper selection and installation, they are sometimes able to “serve” several water collection points at once.

Pumps with a dry rotor require regular lubrication of friction units, and during operation they can create, albeit small, but still noticeable noise - this must also be taken into account when choosing their installation location.

In general, devices of this class of both types are very similar in design, operating principle and installation rules to circulation pumps that are built into the circuit of an autonomous heating system. To avoid repetition, the reader who is interested in these issues can be directed to the appropriate publication.

What you need to know about circulation pumps?

These compact devices ensure stable movement of coolant along the circuits of the heating system. Read about the device, calculation of the required operating parameters, selection and installation in a special publication on our portal.

The fundamental difference is that circulation pumps, as a rule, operate in constant mode while the heating system is in use. Devices designed to increase pressure in the water supply system do not require this mode - they should work only when necessary, when pressure needs to be provided.

There are two approaches to solving this issue.

Some inexpensive pumps have only manual control - that is, the user turns them on independently as needed. This is certainly not a good approach, given the forgetfulness of some people. In addition, if the device, for example, ensures the operation of a washing machine, then water is taken for washing and rinsing periodically, in accordance with the program, that is, most of the cycle of pumping equipment efforts is not required.
The optimal solution is to install a device equipped with a flow sensor. The pump will start only when the tap is opened and, naturally, if there is water in the pipeline. This will relieve the device from unnecessary work and prevent it from overheating or burning out due to “dry running”.

A flow sensor can be included with the pump or purchased additionally. It is always installed after the pump in the direction of water movement.

If the water pressure in the water supply is unstable, that is, it can be normal, but at certain periods it becomes insufficient, then an optional, but very useful addition can be a pressure switch, which is installed at the inlet, in front of the pump.

A useful addition to the connection diagram is a pressure switch

In this case, the pump power circuit is switched through a relay, which can be configured so that it is activated and turns on the power to the device only if there is insufficient pressure in the system. At normal pressure levels, the pump will not turn on even after the flow sensor is activated.

When choosing a pump, be sure to take into account the necessary difference by which the pressure must be increased for the correct operation of plumbing fixtures or household appliances. You should not expect “exorbitant” values - usually this parameter lies within the range of 0.8 ÷ 1.5 bar (8 ÷ 15 meters of water column).

If it is purchased for installation on a hot water supply pipe (there are such situations), then its characteristics must correspond to operating conditions at elevated temperatures of the pumped liquid. Typically, such information is indicated in product passports.

An important parameter is the performance of the device - the amount of water pumped per unit of time. The performance must be higher than the average flow rate at the point of consumption in front of which the equipment is installed.

When choosing a model, it is certainly worth giving preference to “reputable” brands, while clarifying how available service is in your region and what warranties apply to this device.

Several popular high-quality models are shown in the table:

Model name	Brief description	Created additional water pressure
"Grundfos UPA 15-90" and "UPA 15-90N"	One of the most popular models of the famous Danish manufacturer. Wet type pump. Built-in flow sensor. Quiet operation, small dimensions. Usually installed in front of a specific point of consumption (washing machine, geyser, etc.). Model UPA 15-90 – cast iron body, UPA 15-90 – stainless steel. The minimum inlet pressure is 0.2 bar. Power – 110 W. Maximum productivity – up to 25 l/min.	8 m water. Art.
"Wilo-PB-201 EA"	Glandless rotor pump. Drive power – 200 W. The engine is air cooled. Built-in flow sensor - triggered at a flow rate of at least 2 l/min. Connecting pipes – 1". Increased productivity – up to 55 l/min. Quiet operation. Console for fastening to the surface. Capable of providing pressure at several points of consumption.	15 m water. Art.
"Jemix W15GR-15 A"	Pump with a “dry rotor” and air-cooled drive.” Power -120 W. Designed for use in cold and hot water supply - permissible water temperature - up to 110 ° C. Productivity – nominal 10 l/min, maximum – 25 l/min. Pipes for tapping into pipes – 15 mm. A flow sensor is included in the delivery package. The control unit allows you to select manual or automatic operating mode.	10 ÷ 15 m water. Art.
"Aquatica 774715"	An inexpensive pump, usually designed for one point of consumption. "Dry rotor". Brass body. Asynchronous, almost silent motor. Low power consumption - power of only 80 W. Connecting pipes – ¾". Three operating modes. Capacity – 10 l/min. Only for cold water.	up to 10 m water. Art.

Video: installing a pump in an apartment to increase water pressure

Selecting a pumping station

So, the second option for a radical solution to the problem of ensuring normal water pressure is to install a pumping station.

This device is a surface centrifugal self-priming pump. It can be conventional or equipped with an injector - this technological addition significantly increases the pump’s ability to lift water from a significant depth, but, however, makes its operation noisier.

The pumping station may already have a built-in membrane-type hydraulic accumulator, or this element of the required volume can be purchased separately. A prerequisite is the presence of a pressure switch, but in this case it is already installed after the pump itself - when the set pressure threshold in the hydraulic accumulator is reached, the power to the power unit is turned off.

The working pressure in the accumulator is always somewhat excessive - it is calculated in such a way as to ensure the correct operation of all plumbing and household devices, and at the same time maintaining a certain reserve. As water is consumed, the pressure drops, and when it reaches a certain lower limit, pre-set by the manufacturer or the user himself, the relay closes - and the pump again runs the cycle of replenishing the water supply to the upper threshold.

In fact, the pumping station does not just increase water pressure - it creates it itself in a closed home water supply system and constantly maintains it at a given level. And the presence of a hydraulic accumulator makes it possible to hope for a reserve supply of water in case the supply from an external source (main network) suddenly stops.

In this case, a flow sensor is not required - the pump does not respond to the current water flow, but to the pressure level in the storage tank.

As a rule, they are equipped with pressure gauges to make it more convenient to visually monitor the work.

Installing a pumping station is much more complicated than the usual installation of a booster pump. It is better not to deal with this issue yourself, but to invite an appropriate specialist.

When installing, it should be taken into account that there are practically no completely silent pumping stations. This means that it is necessary to provide a place for it that, firstly, would be located at the entrance to the house or apartment, and secondly, would provide the necessary sound insulation for residential premises.

The hydraulic accumulator can be quite small...

The hydraulic accumulator included in the pumping station kit can be quite small, literally a few liters. However, it should be remembered that while gaining in compactness, you can lose in the duration of operation of the device and in energy consumption - the smaller the volume of the tank, the more often the pumping unit will turn on and off, the faster its “motor resource” is consumed.

There is nothing stopping you from purchasing a hydraulic accumulator of the required volume - they are also sold separately. For two people, a 24-liter tank is usually sufficient. For a family of 3-5 people, a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of 50 liters will already be required.

Well, if free space allows, and there are interruptions in the water supply from city networks, then a free-flow storage tank with a float valve will not hurt - the pumping station will take water from it. This scheme has already been mentioned above.

The optimal solution is that the pumping station takes water from a large non-pressure storage tank

Since a pumping station is usually installed to ensure the operation of the entire water supply network of a private house or apartment, when choosing a model, you need to pay special attention to the pressure it creates and the performance. It will be of little use if, taking into account the height and distance of the water collection points in the farthest section, the pressure is insufficient. In the practice of private home ownership, this could be, for example, a garden faucet through which the garden plot is watered. Therefore, when choosing, you should focus on the points that are most distant in height and length. If these are just mixers, then a pressure of 10÷15 meters (1÷1.5 bar) will be enough for them. In the case of installation of equipment that requires special pressure parameters, they are taken as the basis.

Water pumps for home plumbing play the most important role. They can be compared to the human heart.

Only thanks to the presence of a pump in the system is it possible to ensure constant and uninterrupted circulation of liquid as we need it. Maintaining a normal pressure level in the pipelines is also the task of the pump.

Features and types of equipment

A water supply pump is an absolutely necessary item. Without it, it is impossible to pump water into the pipeline and keep it there for a long time. Moreover, the pump performs both the role of the main initiator of action and the functions of a boosting station.

If the water pressure in the pipes is too weak, then it is with the help of a pump that it can be equalized to acceptable values. The presence of automation allows you to forget about constant monitoring of the operation of the water supply system.

The water mains booster pump will be controlled using electronic or mechanical relays. All a person needs to do is install it correctly, configure it and put it into operation.

Here are several main types of pumps that are most often used in the installation of household water supply systems.

The submersible water pump for the water supply is located directly in the well. From there, it pumps the liquid into the suction line and transfers it to the main water supply. Submersible pumps are difficult to install, but they are very productive and have an optimal price;
Semi-submersible pumps differ from submersible pumps only in that their design does not provide for the possibility of immersing the pump motor under water. Therefore, semi-submersible models have a special design using floats. The characteristics of such equipment are inferior to their submersible counterparts;
The pumping station for water supply consists of a surface pump and a hydraulic accumulator. The presence of a storage tank is a real necessity, since the power of surface units is often not enough to maintain a normal level of pressure in the pipes;
A circulation pump for water supply is also called a booster pump. It is worth understanding that almost any pump one way or another raises the pressure in the system, which allows them all to be attributed to this category of equipment. However, it is the circulation pump that increases the pressure in the water supply system that focuses exclusively on performing this function. Circulation pumps do not service the suction sections of the pipeline. They only increase the pressure in the pipes if the initial power of the base pump is not enough for this.

You should select a regular or booster pump for a water supply system based on several basic characteristics and indicators.

First you need to evaluate the type of pump. The submersible pipeline pump is ideal for working with wells. Semi-submersible systems work better with wide wells.

Pumping stations are equipped with basic relays and hydraulic accumulators, which gives them an advantage over those who want to quickly assemble a water supply and put it into operation.

Just in any situation, it should be remembered that surface-type pumping stations cannot effectively service wells or wells with water that is located at a level below 10 meters.

Circulation pumps are used in systems of any type. The work of a pipeline pump is to increase the nominal pressure in the pipes and promote the circulation of liquids through the heating circuits.

Based on these properties, the circulation pump is widely used not only in household, but also in heating pipelines. For example, to promote fluid circulation through underfloor heating systems.

If someone selects a pump for the water supply in an apartment, then in 95% of cases he means a booster circulation pump.

First, the required pressure power is calculated. To do this, use the following formula.

H = (H 1 + H 2 + H 3) * 20%, Where

N – required pressure, m;
H 1 – distance from the bottom of the source to the water surface, m;
H 2 – distance from the water mirror to the top of the source, m;
N 3 – rated pump power (10-30 m).

The result obtained will be the indicator that is necessary for comfortable operation of the pump in your position. It is precisely when there is insufficient pump power to generate pressure that boosting equipment is used.

As a rule, it increases the pressure in the system by 1.5-2 atm and the pressure by 10-20 m.

The formula for determining this indicator is quite simple. You need to calculate the number of plumbing fixtures used and summarize the fluid consumption indicators.

P = p 1 + p 2 +p 3 + … +p n, Where

P – overall performance indicator;
р n – water consumption from one device.

Thus, you will be able to find the maximum amount of liquid that is necessary for the operation of the pipeline at maximum load. However, there is one caveat here.

High pump output is of no use if the source is unable to cover it. Therefore, always try to find out the properties of your source in advance, and then select a pump based on its performance.

The price of booster pumps for water supply or their analogues will also play a role. Still, this equipment is not cheap and not everyone can afford it.

Connection features

Connecting the pump to the water supply is not particularly difficult. You just need to take into account a few basic nuances and follow the instructions. The piping of the pump is done in such a way as to reduce the length of the pipeline as much as possible.

The longer the suction line of the pump, the weaker the pressure at the outlet. This applies primarily to pumping stations, since they have the lowest characteristics in their class.

Installation features are as follows:

Submersible pumps are installed directly into the water. They are connected to a water supply hose, an electrical cable and a safety rope. Then the pump is carefully lowered into the well, where it is fixed at a certain level due to the presence of floats;
Semi-submersible pumps are installed in a similar way. The only difference here is that when lowering the device, it is important not to wet its upper part;
Connecting the pumping station to the water supply is also not overly complicated. It is even easier to work with it, since all the equipment is on the surface. You need to choose a location for the station, install it and connect it to electricity. The suction hose is lowered into a source of water and further secured. All that remains is to configure the automation and start the system;
A booster pump for water supply is installed directly into the pipe. There may be several such pumps. For example, if one booster device is not enough to fully power the entire water supply system. This often happens in large houses with many floors. Installation involves cutting off a piece of pipe and installing a pump in its place. Advanced users can create a pocket of sorts for the circulation pump. To do this, tees are cut into the pipe, which form an additional mini-branch. All entrances are isolated with shut-off valves. Now you can turn off or remove the pump at any time, without interrupting the functioning of the water supply for a minute.

Device in action (video)

Equipment prices

You can buy a booster pump for a water supply system for $70-100. Submersible pumps cost approximately $100-$150 for lower-end models.

More powerful deep diving equipment sells for $300-$500.

Semi-submersible pumps cost approximately $80-$120. Household pumping stations with characteristics acceptable for an average-sized house are estimated at $170-250.

In order to set up an autonomous water supply system, it is necessary to dig a well or drill a well, but this is not enough. It will also be necessary to ensure that water is supplied to the surface and then enters the irrigation or water supply system. The conveyor can be a water pump for home plumbing. However, before purchasing such equipment, it is necessary to select the optimal characteristics of the model, the parameters of which coincide with the characteristics of the well or borehole.

Which standard well pump to choose

If you need to install a home water supply from a well or well, you can use one of the types of equipment, including the following types of pumps:

deep;
ordinary;
surface.

The deep-well pump should be located beyond the ten-meter mark. As for ordinary pumps, they are installed in shallow wells; their shaft should not be deeper into the soil than 10 m. But surface pumps serve shallow shafts, but are located above the head.

The above varieties include centrifugal and vortex models, which make up the range of submersible, deep and surface units. The equipment may also belong to the automatic segment or be controlled manually. This suggests that the range of equipment being described is quite diverse, therefore, in search of the optimal solution, it is necessary to study all aspects and design solutions of the model, which may influence whether the device belongs to one type or another.

Which pump to choose - surface or submersible

Water pumps for home plumbing, as mentioned above, can be submersible or surface pumps. The latter are installed at the head or in the basement of the house. Such units supply water from a source using a pipe immersed in the well shaft. This pipe must be filled with water, because the surface pump does not work dry. Such a unit should be chosen for several reasons, among them ease of maintenance and ease of installation.

You can simply lower the suction pipe into the well and turn on the device, having first filled the working chamber with water. In this case, the unit will begin to pump liquid. As practice shows, a ground-based vehicle is much easier to disassemble than a submersible analogue. However, such a unit also has weaknesses, which are expressed in the risk of overheating, loud noise and insufficient performance.

Any pump makes noise, not just the surface one, but we only hear the last one. The situation is similar with overheating. In the case of the submersible model, cooling occurs using water, while in the case of the surface model, cooling occurs through a fan. Insufficient performance is also a consequence of low power. If the last parameter is impressive, then the performance will be high.

When to choose a submersible pump

If you still can’t decide which water pump to choose for your home plumbing, then you can pay attention to submersible models, which come in deep and ordinary types. Some options raise water even from 30-meter shafts.

Such units have strengths, which are expressed in high performance, the ability to service deep-sea sources, the absence of cooling problems, etc. In addition, the submersible pump does not freeze even in the most extreme cold. But such equipment also has disadvantages, which include difficulty in repairing. After all, the device will have to be raised to the surface, and for this the entire system will be dismantled. Submersible versions of the equipment are quite often subject to corrosion, in addition, they can drown after the installation cable breaks.

Which pump to choose - vibration or centrifugal

When considering water pumps for home plumbing, you will come across vibrating and centrifugal models. Among the strengths of the latest version of the device, high performance should be highlighted, which is limited only by engine power. Such a pump can pump out a lot of water, and its performance is limited to hundreds of liters per minute. Liquid rises from a well of any impressive depth. Power is limited only by the engine's tendency to overheat and the size of the housing.

Before making a purchase, you should also pay attention to the sensitivity of the device to the degree of water contamination. Vibrating pumps also have their strengths, which include the ability to pump water with a large volume of sand. However, such a unit can pump out liquid only from a maximum of 30 m, while productivity is measured in tens of liters per minute. Another disadvantage of the vibration pump is the tendency for the source being serviced to silt. This is due to the fact that the vibration emanating from the pump provokes the destruction of the soil surrounding the well. This effect cannot be avoided even with the most high-tech filters.

Which pump to choose - manual or automatic

The well pump can also be automatic. This option is more expensive, but lasts longer, because it is controlled using overheating, liquid level and dry running sensors.

As for the hand pump, you can only turn it on or off. Taking into account the specific use of a home system, automatic equipment is suitable, because its operation can be synchronized with sensor data, while a manual pump can only be used for watering.

Features of choice based on consumer reviews: “Zubr ZNVP-300-25”

When choosing a pump for a well, you should also pay attention to consumer reviews. For example, the model that was mentioned above is a submersible vibration pump that serves domestic water pipes. According to consumers, using such a device you can lift water from a 5-meter well.

The productivity reaches 1400 liters per hour, and the pressure is 55 m. Such a unit, as buyers emphasize, is suitable for a shallow well, but its vibrational nature can cause siltation. Therefore, the unit can be used only from time to time, which, for example, concerns the irrigation system. The cost of the model, according to consumers, is not so high and amounts to 2000 rubles.

Reviews about the pump "Caliber NVT-210/16"

When considering water pumps for home plumbing, consumers are primarily interested in prices. For example, you can buy “Caliber NVT-210/16” at an even lower price than the above-mentioned option. The cost of this device is 1100-1800 rubles. This submersible vibration pump pushes water to the surface from a well that is up to 10 m deep.

The pressure capacity of this option, according to buyers, is quite impressive for the model and reaches 40 m. This pump has many positive features, among them, as buyers note, low cost and low electricity consumption, which is 210 Watts, which is true for a regular chandelier . All these factors indicate that the device can be called ideal for water supply to a dacha.

Plumbing diagram

If you are wondering how to connect a pump to a water supply system, then you should know what the diagram of such a system looks like. For example, a serial connection is only suitable for a small house with a small number of consumers. But for full-fledged houses and cottages with permanent residence, this scheme is not suitable. It is as follows: water flows through a pipeline, and a tee is installed near the water consumer. If you use several consumers at the same time, then the most remote one will have low pressure.

In contrast, you can put a collector connection, which is expressed in diverting pipes from a common collector to consumers. This allows for almost the same pressure at each point. However, there will still be some losses; problems with pressure are associated with the distance from the pumping station, but much less than in the situation described above.

By choosing such a home plumbing scheme, you will be faced with an increase in the cost of the system. This will translate into more pipes, but it's worth it. Thus, the circuit consists of several elements, among them:

source of water intake;
pumping station;
hydraulic accumulator;
tee with shut-off valve;
water pipe;
cold water pipe;
hot water pipe.

Pump installation features

Before choosing a pump for a water supply in a private house and connecting it, you need to select equipment taking into account the productivity of the well. The power of the unit will affect the speed of filling the tank, but when choosing a device, it is better to take into account the maximum water flow mark. Together with the electric cable and pipe, the deep pump is immersed in the well; to do this, it must be suspended on a galvanized cable using a winch. It is located inside the caisson.

To ensure that the required pressure is maintained in the system and water is not pumped back into the well, a check valve must be located above the pump. After the installation of a pumping station for home plumbing is completed, it is necessary to check the internal wiring and also connect the equipment to the control panel.

As for surface pumps, they are installed in a caisson, which is an underground well above the well head. There are alternative solutions when the suction pipe is pulled into the basement where the surface unit is installed. The external water supply line must be connected to the basement or technical area.

More information

The storage tank will maintain constant pressure in the system and provide water intake points without delays for transportation.

The pump and accumulator will operate automatically. This indicates that the unit will only turn on when the pressure in the accumulator drops. It is switched off after the pressure in the storage tank has risen to the required value. The control unit is responsible for this interaction, which turns the pump on and off.

One of the primary issues when arranging a private house or cottage due to its remote location from the central water supply is water supply. Most owners of country houses or country houses, when choosing household water pumps, are faced with the problem of a wide variety of pump devices for supplying water directly to the plumbing fixtures located in the house. What should be the best pumping station for a summer house or cottage?

It provides the opportunity to pump water into the house from any available source: river, well, well, central water supply. A pump for home water supply will ensure the constant required pressure in the autonomous water supply and uninterrupted supply of water to plumbing fixtures. Let's look at the principles that should be followed before choosing a pump for water supply to a cottage or home.

Design and principle of operation of water stations

Before choosing a water pump for a private home, it is worth studying its design and the operating principle of an automatic pumping station.

So, automatic pump stations for home and garden consist of the following components:

pump;
hydraulic accumulator;
control and automation groups.

For its uninterrupted operation in a summer cottage, an uninterrupted supply of electricity is required. The device itself is autonomous and does not require additional third-party intervention: water is supplied at constant pressure - there are small differences, but they are so small that they are not felt by the equipment, much less consumers.

The best pumping stations are equipped with hydraulic accumulators, which are a cylindrical container, which is divided into two parts using an elastic membrane. One part of this container is filled with gas at the factory. A certain pressure is created in this chamber.

When the electric pump is turned on, water enters the second part of the accumulator. As the container is gradually filled, the membrane stretches, and the gas in the second part is compressed even more. Thus, pressure is created in the water supply system of a dacha or private house. Its control is carried out using pressure switch sensors. When the extreme value is reached (about 2-4 atmospheres), the sensors give a signal to turn off the pump.

When the taps in the water supply system are closed, the pressure is stable and the pump does not work. As soon as a tap is opened somewhere, water begins to flow into it from the accumulator. As water is consumed, the pressure decreases. As soon as the pressure reaches the bottom of its limit, the second sensor turns on, giving the command to turn on the pump and water begins to fill the container again, thereby equalizing the pressure.

After closing the tap, the water pumping station for a well or well continues to operate for some time, after which it turns off. Thanks to the stable pressure in the system, it is possible to connect any household appliance to the water supply - a water pump, a washing machine and a dishwasher. If necessary, you can also include it in the automatic watering system for your plot or lawn.

The internal design of individual pumps also differs. The noise level during operation depends on this factor:

Vortex. Suction occurs due to the blades, which are located inside the body. These pumping stations for providing the house with water are quite quiet or even almost silent. But they can only lift water from a shallow depth. They are recommended to be installed in residential buildings due to the fact that this equipment is extremely sensitive to temperature changes, and if it freezes, it can even break completely.
Centrifugal pumps create a fairly high noise level during operation, but have such significant advantages as lifting water from a fairly large depth and insensitivity to temperature changes; thanks to this quality, the centrifugal device can be installed in specially equipped rooms for this purpose.

Most stations, which are supplied by manufacturers already assembled, are equipped with surface pumps. They are mounted on the same frame with a hydraulic accumulator and a control group. The pump is equipped with a pipeline descending into the water source. The advantage of this option is that it is possible to use a pumping station for a private house even in rather narrow wells, where the pipe diameter can reach 32 mm, which is the norm even for the narrowest well. But such a system can lift water from a depth of about 7-10 meters.

For a deeper well, you will need a submersible pump or an installation with a remote ejector. In this case, the ejector must be lowered into a well or borehole by connecting two hoses to it. The rest of the device remains on the surface. With this type of system, water can be lifted from a depth of about 40-45 meters. The disadvantage of this system is its sensitivity to the presence of air in the hoses (pipes), which is why starting the system is quite a responsible and troublesome task.

What to look for when choosing?

Before choosing the type of pumping station, you should definitely take into account several conditions under which the installation will operate. Taking these nuances into account, equipment capable of ensuring uninterrupted water supply is selected.

The main parameters of the pumping station that affect its operation are:

electric motor power;
station performance;
maximum storage capacity;
the height to which the station can raise water.

It is worth remembering that the manufacturer indicates the maximum capabilities of the station, which in no case will coincide with the actually required parameters. For example, the passport indicates a value of 3 m3/h. This characteristic indicates the maximum possible volume of pumped water; at the moment this value is reached, there will be no pressure.

Or a maximum pressure parameter of 40 meters is indicated, this indicates that the source of water supply is located at the level of the pumping station, and no water consumption is provided for. Under these conditions, the pump will produce the specified pressure value, but will be absolutely useless.

In order to obtain accurate data on the relationship between flow and pressure at the head of the pumping station, it is recommended to use the data from the tables and graphs indicated in the equipment passport. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates the true characteristics of the pump, giving the consumer the opportunity to choose a water pump with selected parameters for specific purposes.

You can also select the pump housing. The materials for its manufacture are stainless steel, cast iron, and high-density polypropylene. The polypropylene body is quite cheap, but it is not susceptible to corrosion and does not transmit noise during operation. But even with increased density, do not forget that this is plastic, and if handled carelessly it can be easily damaged (for example, during transportation).

The second place in price is occupied by a housing made of steel, but in combination with a centrifugal pump, this housing transmits noise and even sometimes resonates. So the working process of this pump is characterized by an increased noise level.

A similar pump operating in a cast iron casing is noticeably quieter. But in acidic water, cast iron is subject to a high level of corrosion, which is not a positive quality: usually the iron content in water is already in excess. The best case can be considered to be one made of stainless steel, but its price is correspondingly the highest.

Rating of the best water pumps for a private home

Typically, water consumption at a dacha is characterized not only by domestic needs, but also by watering the garden plot. Sometimes water is drawn from sources with a high content of various impurities in the form of grains of sand or other suspensions. Taking this feature into account, it is strongly recommended to provide in advance for the installation of an additional filter at the inlet.

If you need to operate the station in a permanent home, then you will need to choose completely different equipment. Which will have a fairly significant impact on its cost.
In order to realize an uninterrupted water supply in a country house with a large consumed volume and maintain a stable supply, equipment with improved parameters is used. Of course, their cost is much higher, but the benefits received are more than worth the money spent.

TOP 10 pumping stations for a country house or cottage:

NeoClima GP 600/20 N (Russia-China) - from 5600 rubles
Quattro Elementi Automatico 801 - from 6,000 rubles
AL-KO HWF 1000 - from 6200 rubles
GARDENA 3000/4 - from 9990 rubles
GILEX Jumbo 60/35 Ch-24 - from 8500 rubles
GILEKS Water cannon PROF 55/90 House - from 25,000 rubles
VMtec Altera Auto 5/5 - from 27,000 rubles
Wilo HMP 603 1 - from 29,000 rubles
Grundfos CMB-SP SET 3-47 (PM 1-22) - from 29,500 rubles
Espa Tecnoplus 25 4M - from 75,000 rubles.

Pay attention to the approximate cost of each water pump.

The choice of the proposed unit directly depends on the water supply system being created and its operating conditions. Small country houses and an irrigation system can easily get by with inexpensive models that can provide an initial level of water supply.

To ensure a reliable water supply system with a stable water supply for a dwelling with permanent residence of people, it is recommended to pay attention to the presence of an automatic operating mode in the selected unit, which is capable of maintaining a constant water pressure with the specified parameters.

How to install pumping equipment?

When installing a pumping station, it is necessary to follow the installation rules.

To operate the pumping station, a power supply is required. This is one of the main criteria when choosing the installation location: it would be better to mount the station close to the power supply, or the most successful solution would be to extend the power supply line from the source to the station installation location. But besides this there are some nuances:

The equipment must be installed taking into account the distance over which water can be supplied. If you are planning to use the system in winter, then the room where the unit will be installed will need to be insulated - domestic pumping stations for home and garden are extremely sensitive to frost. In addition, the room must be provided with good ventilation to prevent condensation accumulation.

If during operation the pump makes a fairly loud noise, and its installation is most convenient in the house or near it. In this case, to prevent this inconvenience, it is recommended to enclose it in a soundproofing box.

Often the most successful solution is to build a caisson - a small room located at a depth of 2.5 meters. In the case of water intake from a well, the casing pipe is cut slightly above the bottom of the caisson. A self-priming or conventional pumping station is lowered into the well, supplying water to the hydraulic accumulator.

The equipment should be mounted below the freezing depth of the soil, this will help prevent it from freezing: the temperature inside does not fall below zero. Because of this factor, it is also more convenient to lay pipes below the freezing level, and carry them out under the house in a non-freezing area and supply water to the comb.

If for a house where people permanently live, installing a caisson is a justifiable expense, then for a dacha it is very doubtful. In this case, they set up a simplified version: they make a small box or pit, where they install a water pump for a summer house or private house for the spring-summer period, and in winter, taking it into a heated room.

Before purchasing a pumping station that best suits your parameters, it is recommended to study the technical data of the pump, expansion tank, and, in addition, the installation conditions of the equipment - in this case, the operation of the system will not be interrupted by unforeseen malfunctions, and the water supply will be stable and uninterrupted.

It is not always possible for the owner of a private house, country cottage or summer house to connect to the centralized water supply system. Usually, owners have to solve issues of an autonomous water supply system for their own home. But even if it is possible to connect to a water supply system, having your own source of water is not the worst situation, for example, from the point of view of economic benefits. Such a water intake can be used for irrigation, and water from a well or borehole is much tastier than tap water. In addition, the autonomous system saves the day if the central water supply is turned off. All that remains is to figure out which water supply pumps or pumping stations are best suited for use in a private home.

A well is an artificial shaft dug to store groundwater in an aquifer close to the surface. Sometimes the depth of the well reaches 15-20 meters. The mine is reinforced against falling by well rings.
Well - mine produced by drilling. There are several types of wells: free-flow (for sand), reaching a depth of up to 50 m; on limestone up to 150 m deep; artesian wells with a depth of 150 m, Abyssinian and others.
Artificial reservoirs, including containers for collecting melt, flood, and rain water. If there is a spring or spring nearby, it is possible to make an in-depth diversion from the riverbed.
Natural bodies of water: streams, lakes, rivers.
Water consumers on site: plumbing fixtures of various types, irrigation structures, baths, saunas, swimming pools.
Feed and distribution systems: water storage tanks, pipelines.

Designing an autonomous water supply is impossible without purchasing a pump. This is one of the most important and expensive parts, the quality of which determines how to provide your home or garden with the required amount of liquid. When choosing a pump for water supply, you must be guided by the type of water source and the autonomous water supply system.

Design differences in pumping equipment

There are several design types of devices:

Piston pumps, used only for the purpose of providing large volumes. Bulky structures are not suitable for home installation, as they have low efficiency and a short working life.
Centrifugal devices are popular due to their ease of installation and use, cost-effectiveness and high reliability of the pumps.
Turbine designs are similar to centrifugal designs, but the blades are located not on the side, but on the axis. They are characterized by increased productivity, durability and high efficiency, but use is indicated only for industrial purposes.
Rotary/screw pumps for a private home are ideal for extracting water from wells. Characterized by their small diameter, ease of installation and long service life, the devices have a low noise threshold and an affordable price.
Diaphragm/vibration pumping units are leaders in popularity and demand. Inexpensive, average performance and decent efficiency devices are known to all summer residents.

According to the type of placement, water supply pumps are divided into two types:

Surface structures. These are devices located in close proximity to the source, providing suction through a pipe lowered into the water intake.
Submersible is a pump for water supply, lowered into the casing to a depth.

Pumping stations are often placed in a separate class, which are a compact water-pressure complex that includes a surface pump, a storage tank-hydraulic accumulator, a pressure switch and a control circuit. By replacing the pump, water supply stations completely provide a private building with water, and at the same time they have a lot of advantages.

What to choose?

Before purchasing, it is worth comparing the pros and cons of the two main types of pump designs.

Surface water pump:

Fixed installation, easy maintenance;
Installation of suction and discharge pipelines is necessary;
The maximum suction depth is 10 meters, in practice the figure is even smaller - up to 7-8 meters;
It is necessary to fill with water upon first start-up or after a long period of inactivity/repair;
If the system operates for a long time, there is a risk of motor overheating;
Indicated for the summer version of the water supply and require conservation or careful insulation in cold weather;
High noise threshold.

Submersible pumps for water supply:

Require lifting from the casing for inspection, maintenance and repair work;
The functionality is aimed at pumping;
Work with depths of more than 10 meters;
Ready for work immediately from the moment of immersion in the water supply system;
There is no threat of overheating, since such a water supply pump is cooled by the pumped water;
Does not require preservation in cold weather; just drain the water from the system;
Low noise threshold is an additional advantage of the design. In addition, the device is immersed in water, and this also helps to dampen noise.

Important! For a system for lifting water in a private house from a well, the easiest way is to use a surface pump. It is better to “entrust” water supply from a well to a submersible device of a rotary or centrifugal type. The installation of a pumping station does a good job, and the design is suitable for any source.

Calculation of data for device selection

Any user can make approximate calculations for selecting pumping equipment. The following parameters must be taken into account:

Maximum water flow rate in liters per minute or cubic meters per hour;
Suction height (water depth);
Discharge height is the difference between the levels of the highest point of the pipeline (including the number of storeys of the house) and the outlet pipe of the pump/pumping station;
Required pressure in the water supply system.

Important! The suction height of a surface-type hydraulic pump does not exceed 10.33 m minus the height of the water column, which creates equal atmospheric pressure! To simplify calculations, the suction height is rounded to the nearest 10, and the pressure is equal to 1 atm.

Now you can view the discharge height (pressure), determined by the technical capabilities and power of the selected automatic pump for the water supply system of a private house.

Attention: when installing the station not in a caisson near a well or well, but in a house, the loss of pressure power along the length of the conducting pipeline should be taken into account.

After selecting a specific model, the calculated values are consistent with the nameplate values of the device. But hydraulic power is calculated by the empirical formula: P (W) = 2.725 * Flow (m3/h) * Pressure (m). Purchasing water supply pumps is a complicated matter, but on-site installation will not be a problem if you carefully read the instructions. Installation is carried out quickly, without the help of professionals and serious special skills.

Connection to the water supply system of the pumping station

If you don’t want to deal with the water supply system, the easiest and most convenient way is to purchase a pumping station - the unit is completely ready for use and you just need to connect it, having previously installed it in any place convenient for the user. But do not forget about a reliable foundation for the station; this will determine the uninterrupted operation and good operation of the water supply pumps. A mesh filter and check valve, which ensure clean flow and the impossibility of liquid flowing back out of the hoses, will also not be superfluous.

Attention! Water pumping units of any type must be grounded or “zeroed”. Without this, operation is impossible. But it is better to connect through an RCD and an automatic maximum current system.

Despite their practicality and ease of use, autonomous water supply pumping stations have their weaknesses. But first, the advantages of using stations rather than conventional water supply pumps:

Affordable price, less than the usual purchase of all components for installing the pump and plumbing structure;
Small dimensions;
Ease of installation and maintenance;
Ready to work immediately after unpacking the equipment;

The disadvantages of the equipment are:

Some restrictions on suction depth. The standard height is 7-8 meters, but you can increase the figure if you place the station in a caisson equipped next to the water intake source;
The need for a warm room to install the device.

Important! To provide water to a large private home, installing equipment with a storage tank of 50-100 liters is suitable. But you should understand that a low-noise station with such indicators will not be cheap.

Weak points of all stations:

Water hammer resulting from a power outage increases the risk of damage to the device;
Severe water contamination leads to clogging of the membrane, wear of the paddle mechanism and silting of the tank.

In addition, the slightest discrepancy between working conditions and technical requirements can cause a lot of trouble. For example, frequent switching on/off of the device leads to rupture of the bulb. The inability to create the required pressure increases the frequency of switching on, which reduces the performance of the entire system and, ultimately, renders the device unusable.

There are also frequent breakdowns of pressure switches that occur due to improper adjustment. Long-term continuous operation of the station without shutting down results in financial losses, overflow of the storage tank and failure of the device.

Attention! You need to adjust the relay using a pair of different-sized springs: the large spring is designed to set the lower threshold, and the small one is for the difference between the upper and lower!

When creating a manual or automatic water supply system in your own home, you should carefully select pumping equipment. The uninterrupted operation of the installation, the efficiency of the flow supply, and this is comfort and coziness in your home, depends on which device will be used to supply the liquid.