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Electric heated floor in the booth? Body temperature in dogs - norms and how to measure How to deal with sunburn if you are sunburned.

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 14:31

Dear forum users, who has experience installing a warm electric floor in a booth? I’m building a hut for a chicken, but I’m worried that it will be cold, they promise a cold winter. I saw ready-made sets of heated floors for kennels and immediately rushed to install them, but now I’m wondering if the dog will get sick due to the large temperature difference. In general, please help with advice.

Stas 04.10.2013 - 14:36

evgen1981
Does anyone have experience installing heated electric floors in a booth?

A friend in the VEO booth hung “good warmth” on the wall - such film wall heaters, on the far wall. He says that the dog himself decides what is best: sometimes he sleeps pressed against the wall, sometimes he lies down closer to the exit, even in severe frost.

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 14:42

yeah, I know that, but how can a dog not get sick?

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 14:51

Stas 04.10.2013 - 17:33

evgen1981
I know this. Is the dog sick?

Why should he be sick? It seems to me that this is even more correct than a warm floor; the dog itself decides where it is more comfortable. True, this is a veo, street-kept from birth - in winter there is wool and undercoat like a polar bear. Kurtz may have some peculiarities, I never had them. Another friend in the Tambov region has a spaniel living in an enclosure; in winter he turns on an infrared lamp in her corner, not very powerful, 200 watts I think. The flight has been normal for six years now.

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 18:05

The good thing about warm floors is that the bedding is always dry. OK, maybe someone else can say something?

Stas 04.10.2013 - 18:26

evgen1981
The good thing about warm floors is that the bedding is always dry.

It won’t be dry at all, the warm floor normally heats up to 25-30 degrees, approximately, I don’t remember the exact description, and my thermostat has no numbers... So you won’t get dry bedding for sure.

Udavilov 04.10.2013 - 19:42

Make a warm booth. I made a booth, 10 cm polystyrene foam floor, roofing material between the layers, 10 cm slab roof. At the entrance there is a three-layer curtain, stripes of carpet. The entrance is as small as possible. And there is no need for heating, otherwise the dog may be too lazy to go outside.

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 19:59

Here is a good project of a booth for a short-haired dog. Insulated, with a vestibule. Convenient access for cleaning thanks to the lifting roof.

I made a regular booth for my dog (German), with insulation. The entrance hole (height of the hole = height of the dog's withers) has curtains made of tent tarpaulin. The floor is insulated with foam plastic. The dog liked the booth right away! Before I even had time to finish the construction, he had already climbed in there and laid down!-)). He has already lived in a booth for 2 winters. It does not require heating-))).Before this, I laid different rugs on it. In the morning they were always lying on the street-)). He threw them out!

Py.Sy. Another important point: when I was looking for how to determine the size of a kennel for a specific dog, I saw many clarifying points, in particular: the absence of a draft is very important for a dog. Those. the booth must be made neatly and without cracks.

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 20:18

I’m making a booth and it’s already a warm brick. the outside is polystyrene inside the mineral wool under the casing, but I’m still worried the chicken’s fur is short, it’s not German.

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 20:27

I'm sure good insulation will be enough. Be sure to have curtains at the entrance. And the dog itself “warms” its home quite well.

Py.Sy. Probably wood is still better as a material for building a booth, PMSM.

Udavilov 04.10.2013 - 20:39

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 20:42

Udavilov
The most common mistake is to make an overly large and high booth. It won't warm it up.

And if the booth is cramped, then it turns out like this:

So I scoured the Internet and found how to determine the size of the booth according to the size of the dog.
This is how the dog’s house turned out

Udavilov 04.10.2013 - 23:24

Poor doggie) and the booth looks like a store-bought one.

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 23:34

Udavilov
and the booth looks like a store-bought one.

Py.Sy.Yes, comfort in a kennel is important for a dog. And therefore, the house needs to be built to size. There is information on the Internet on how to measure a dog and get the dimensions for the kennel. That’s what I did.

Py.Py.Sy. By the way, here is the booth in the process of production-))))

The dog already likes her-)))

evgen1981 05.10.2013 - 13:20

The booth is good, but what about the floor? Will the dog get sick or not? is there anyone who did it?

Stas 05.10.2013 - 16:14

evgen1981
Will the dog get sick or not?

It seems to me that shorthaired pointers are not the most common kennel-kept dog. Tell me in a year how the dog lives in the kennel 😊

Kurtsik 05.10.2013 - 18:39

The booth is good, but what about the floor? Will the dog get sick or not? is there anyone who did it?

There is no need for heating in the booth - no heating... neither on the wall, nor under the floor.
This is bad for the dog's health. I don’t have this practice, but in all the books they write that the dog’s place should be away from heating devices and not in drafts. Temperature changes have a bad effect.
But many of my friends have experience (repeatedly) of keeping chickens in an enclosure. All the descendants of my male dogs were kept in the yard since childhood....this is the mentality of the villagers - they won’t let a dog into the house.
The booth should be very warm, with foam, etc. Do not put any rags inside. The rags get damp and the dog throws them away... not because it’s hot, but because of the dampness. Hang a tarpaulin (for example) at the entrance to the booth to prevent the wind from blowing. You can also have a booth with a vestibule (as in the example above). In winter, do not lock the enclosure - do not limit walking, let him wander.
And one more thing - the dog is transferred to an kennel in the spring. Over the summer, having shed, in the fall (towards winter), with a gradual daily decrease in temperature, the undercoat grows - the chickens have a very dense coat, similar to batting 😊 - and the dog successfully winters in the kennel. And you translate in late autumn - the dogs may freeze.

Aleksandr_A 05.10.2013 - 23:37

if we are talking about a booth, then there must be a separate vestibule and no drafts. It is imperative to consider the issue of ventilation - you should not lock the dog in an unventilated space.
As for heating, it’s a must. The chicken will not withstand temperatures of -20 on its own heating, I’m not even talking about temperatures higher. The temperature in the booth should be no more than +15, so thermostats with sensors will help you (quality things cost good money). When the dog spends significant time in the kennel, it breathes and additionally heats up, the temperature rises significantly. Jumping from +25 straight to -25 is harmful for the dog. In addition, it is desirable that the vestibule also have some heating - the dog itself will choose where to sit at the moment - either in the warmest room, or choose a cooler one.
As for the material inside the booth, the wood absorbs the smell very strongly, and there will definitely be one, this is a dog, so think 100 times, save a penny or do it right away for many years and not have any problems.

Then I saw an original heating solution - a warm film floor was turned into warm walls and a warm ceiling 😊 with separation when connected into zones. But this is already a perversion and a strong reinsurance, because heat rises from bottom to top and accumulates at the top, i.e. where there are no dogs. All these bells and whistles a la “good warmth” are not our option, because... It does not heat effectively, plus there is every chance that the dog will chew it off at some point.
Laminate is perfect for finishing the inside of the booth; it does not absorb odor and is easy to clean, plus it can be quickly replaced at any time and is not expensive. Treating the inside of the wood with chemicals - you understand, is not suitable.
It is also advisable to spend money on the entrance hole and buy, for example, Ferplast gates (2500 rubles). A dog can also chew tarpaulins and other rags, and if it’s young, it will chew it 100%.
And keep in mind that you are building a kennel for a short-haired dog, on a budget, as you can’t get away with for a husky or a shepherd dog.

Kurtsik 06.10.2013 - 12:22

As for heating, it’s a must. The chicken will not withstand temperatures of -20 on its own heating, I’m not even talking about temperatures higher.

They can withstand it easily - it has been confirmed repeatedly by two generations of Kurds....
I myself am against kennel keeping - my dogs are (all) apartment dogs.
But those who took puppies from my chickens have a different opinion. The dogs were kept outdoors ONLY - all in kennels. But not in enclosures, but in flight around the yard.
Warm kennels, plentiful high-calorie food (during the cold season), unlimited movement, and everyone lived to an old age. A female under 12 years old (got a cold in the November water and not treated in time), a male under 11 years old (hunting accident 😞), another male under 13 years old...died a natural death. These are the ones I constantly saw on hunts. I don’t know how long the others lived.
But I repeat - the puppies were immediately placed in a kennel in the spring. The undercoat grows the same as that of short-haired mongrels, and gradually even the belly becomes overgrown.
It’s not worth taking risks before winter, the dog is without underwear, practically naked, and the fur doesn’t warm - the undercoat warms.

Udavilov 06.10.2013 - 12:27

Alex Chasnyk
Thanks for the compliment -))). Made it myself!

Did you spare any insulation?)

evgen1981 06.10.2013 - 14:56

Kurtsik and Alexander Thank you for your detailed answers. My dog has been living in a booth since spring, but the booth is cold and made of plywood, I’m currently building a major one, I don’t want to save money, I don’t want to go into detail. in general, I decided on a booth for myself and it’s warm and I’ll install a warm floor with a thermostat just in case, I won’t turn it on if I’m cold 😊 thank you all for the advice, in general, the topic can be closed

KuQ 07.10.2013 - 08:24

Hello! By the way, I also got a krets. Moreover, according to his pedigree, the Drathar is branded. And there's a Kurt on the face. But that's not the point. I took it to keep it outside, but it turns out that the cable freezes. I am also very concerned about the kennel and enclosures. And I do them at an accelerated pace. I'm thinking of putting an infrared panel in an insulated booth. The walls are insulated at least 10 cm - polystyrene foam. There will be less radiation coming through. Why him! I have it in my garage. The garage was built in brick. Heated up for a week and kept the temperature down to -10. That is, the temperature allows you to work in the garage in a T-shirt. This garage was not insulated. Right now I covered the walls with 10 cm polystyrene foam. Overall, great. Consumption 7 watts 1 meter. These panels work by heating surrounding objects and giving off heat. Feelings on the body that the temperature in the room is 3-5 degrees higher. I think I'll fill a 5 cm square and put a film panel under it. a sensor and a wall monitor to record the average temperature in the booth and that’s it. Correct me if I'm wrong!

BigBob 07.10.2013 - 21:52

KuQ
5 cm square and place a film panel under it. a sensor and a wall monitor to record the average temperature in the booth and that’s it

If the panel power is small, there will be a large temperature drift. In other words, if the temperature outside quickly drops, the heating system will respond delayed. The most effective heating can be done from a self-regulating cable embedded in concrete and a temperature sensor.

Aleksandr_A 07.10.2013 - 22:19

I don’t understand, are you suggesting putting the dog on concrete/tiles?

KuQ 07.10.2013 - 22:44

Alexander_A
I don’t understand, are you suggesting putting the dog on concrete/tiles?

Well, man, drunk people sleep on heated floors. The wives don't have the strength to tow them to the bed by the leg. About dogs, I also read that from such a warm floor, the dog throws out the bedding even more to his liking. True, abrasions appear on the skin. I don’t think that when the cable is heated, the lozenge gets damp. But with the panel this is possible.

KuQ 07.10.2013 - 22:48

BigBob
If the panel power is small, there will be a large temperature drift. In other words, if the temperature outside quickly drops, the heating system will respond delayed. The most effective heating can be done from a self-regulating cable embedded in concrete and a temperature sensor.

To what temperature does the stove heat up? And what is the asking price?

BigBob 07.10.2013 - 22:59

You can count, but I'm too lazy...
http://www.teplo-116.ru/images/files/cabels/samreg1.pdf
I will add that you need to control and regulate the temperature of the floor (no more than 40 degrees), and not the air in the booth.

Aleksandr_A 07.10.2013 - 23:42

If you decide to keep your dog outside/enclosure, provide him with a comfortable place. There is no money for construction - keep it in an apartment/house. Why abuse an animal?

KuQ 09.10.2013 - 15:43

Alexander_A
Well, try it, in December, when the buds fall off, sign up.
I am amazed by the attitude of some owners of hunting dogs whose dogs run around the yard like mongrels. And such absurd arguments are given to justify this disgrace that it makes your hair stand out. Starting from self-heating to site security.
If you decide to keep your dog outside/enclosure, provide him with a comfortable place. There is no money for construction - keep it in an apartment/house. Why abuse an animal?

Stop looking for dog enemies everywhere. I just read the topic by instinct and saw how you were dismantling all the dull ones there. We are talking here about technical feasibility or impossibility. So I'm a theorist and looking for informed advice. If I had not taken the dog, the owner would have shot him. I would have shot him because he bought a drathar and the kurtz grew up. These are the breeders - sellers with film lags who are mocking us. Everything in the pedigree is written in Drathar. Sincerely.

Svjtogor 10.10.2013 - 05:09

Good afternoon everyone, my dog lives on the veranda attached to the house, the veranda is warm. At first I had problems with my wife about the dog, our house is private and she just couldn’t come to terms with the idea that the dog would live with us. So I had to insulate an extension, you could even say that this is part of the house or another room for the dog, but I immediately crossed off the doghouse and enclosure from the list, in winter it can be -40 and I couldn’t even think that I would drive her out into the street. I have a dr. I have a large plot, there is a vegetable garden, green grass, cucumbers 😊 but it is not divided by any fences. And there are no problems about this, in the spring as soon as the beds were planted the dog does not go there, I don’t know why, but somehow it turned out that this is for her the territory immediately becomes forbidden 😊 In the summer, she spends the whole day in the yard and I do not limit her movement around the area. In the morning I leave for work, I let her out into the street, I leave the door to the veranda open. She also has free movement around the house except for the bedroom and the kitchen when we have breakfast , we have lunch or dinner.

Aleksandr_A 10.10.2013 - 10:05

KuQ
We are talking here about technical feasibility or impossibility. So I'm a theorist and looking for informed advice.

There is a technical possibility. Just like there is the EXPERIENCE of other people, which people share, and smart people take into account other people’s mistakes. I want to fill my own bumps - so no one is against it, do as you decide.

oldr 10.10.2013 - 20:34

I have a heated floor and a heater in my Drat's booth - Drat doesn't complain or get sick.

Astol 10.10.2013 - 21:10

I came across this topic by accident, I won’t hide that I love dogs. So I’ll tell you a little story that happened to me at the dacha of a high official in Rublyovka. I came with a team to adjust the automatic gates, well, they did the job, fixed a few things, tightened them up, the job was done. The owner comes up and says - Build a warm doghouse for the dog, you have the material. We scratched our heads and got on with it. But there was one condition that the booth be a copy of the owner’s house in appearance (funny). Once we set out to do it, we'll do it. Three hours of work and the booth is ready. We received 800 bucks for the work. The booth was made on a whim; after all, there is no experience in booth construction, but I had experience working in a nursery in the army, something that has remained in my head since then. Afterwards I came there a couple of times, although another dog already lived there, but everyone was happy, the dog wintered well. They insulated it really well.
By the way, I also saw one general’s booth with a triple-glazed window, where a bitch and puppies spent the winter with him. I don’t really know if there was heating there. In general, something like this.

oldr 10.10.2013 - 22:10

I'll take a picture of mine this weekend. While I had the grate there, the dogs didn’t go there at all. I installed double-glazed windows - they lie and watch with pleasure; Warm floors only where they sleep - and in the dressing room - just a heater;

evgen1981 10/11/2013 - 05:16

As it turns out, people even install double-glazed windows, but I thought I was the only one going crazy with a heated floor in the booth 😊

oldr 10/11/2013 - 08:31

Without a dog on the hunt, you are nothing. Therefore, she must live in good conditions;

The first question the veterinarian asks during a telephone consultation is: “What is the dog’s body temperature.” Most cannot answer this question...either they do not know how to measure, or they do not consider it necessary to do so, but in vain! Let's figure out how and how to measure a dog's temperature and what to do if you don't have a thermometer at hand.

Normal body temperature in dogs

Every dog owner or volunteer should know these indicators by heart. The rate depends on the age and size of the dog.

Important! The table indicators are not the absolute truth, since the body of each animal is individual.

The indicators are only valid when taking measurements rectally(the thermometer is placed in the anus). When measuring temperature with a non-contact or electronic thermometer in other areas of the body, the indicators can fluctuate greatly:

Orally (in the mouth)– distortion up to 0.3° downward.
Axillary (in the cavity under the front or back paw)– distortion up to 0.5° downward.

Determination of body temperature during a quick examination

No one (or almost no one) carries a thermometer in their pocket just in case. Having discovered a dog that visually needs help, you need to focus on your own feelings.

To determine the level of body temperature (high/low) Feel the dog's upper and lower gums and the area under the tongue. If it seems to you that your gums are cold, this is bad. If they are hot, it’s also not good, but there are chances. Normally, you will feel a slight warmth because dogs have a higher body temperature than humans.

Altruists can take risks determine the temperature in the anus finger, provided that the dog is large and very (!) calm/immobilized, and the palms are small. Please note that only you are responsible for the unexpected consequences of the “invasion”, be careful and careful!

Important! Do not focus on the dryness and wetness of the nose, this is important if the dog has a severe and prolonged fever! At lower temperatures, the nose will be cold and even wet (which is “rumored” to be an indicator of good health).

Types of thermometers - advantages and errors

So, thermometers differ in the type of recording of body temperature and the method of their use:

Mercury- a glass thermometer familiar to everyone. An invincible technology with one drawback: you can only talk about the correctness of the measurement after holding the dog with a thermometer in its butt for 7–10 minutes (believe me, this is not easy, especially if the dog doesn’t know you).
Electronic (rectal)– a great breakthrough in the field of temperature measurement and an excellent option for dog lovers. And yes, such a thermometer is intended only for rectal measurement of temperature in people, that is, only through “it itself” the device gives correct results.
Ultrasound and IF (ultrasound, infrared)– a great joke, but only for people! Initially, the thermometer was invented to measure the body temperature of sleeping babies.
Ear– can also be used for dogs, but with otitis media or other ear diseases, the result will be very incorrect.
Oral– not suitable for dogs.

Have you noticed that none of the thermometers are designed to measure armpit temperature? This method is used, but it is not the ultimate truth. Separately, it is worth noting the devices intended for examining animals:

Electronic veterinary thermometer– yes, it exists, convenience in an extended range – from 32 to 45°. The measurement is carried out quite quickly, when the result is ready, the device beeps. There are no special nuances, the temperature is measured rectally, some devices even have built-in memory. The cost of the accessory starts from $10.
Veterinary thermometer infrared- oh yes, there is that too. The cost starts from $50, judging by the reviews, and is not suitable for all dogs and owners. Cheap devices lie solidly, but the technical characteristics of expensive ones contain unexpected conditions.

How to measure a dog's body temperature

The procedure is not pleasant, at least for the animal, but the body temperature of a dog or puppy is the first line of any medical history, even a very mild one. The method for measuring a dog's temperature is uniform and empirically tested. Regardless of the type of device, the measurement is performed rectally (anally) and only if ovulation is detected in bitches, can it be carried out vaginally.

If the anus is damaged and measurement is impossible, they are guided by the situation (usually measured in the cavity between the abdomen and thigh).

Lay the dog on its side and secure it, no matter how calm she may be. For a dog whose obedience you are sure of, the measurement can be carried out standing.
If you are carrying out the procedure for the first time and are not sure of the animal’s reaction, tie the mouth with a piece of gauze or put on a muzzle.
The tip of the thermometer must be lubricated (vaseline, cream, linseed oil)… and you should not skimp on lubricant.
Calmly, without trembling in your hands, but without jerking, insert the thermometer into the dog’s anus.
Place the thermometer not very deep, approximately as shown in the photo and wait.

Monitor the process without removing the thermometer (if you measure with mercury). When the column has stopped actively creeping (about 3 minutes), you can already judge the temperature level. For accurate measurements, you need to wait 7–8 minutes.

The sun is the source of life on the planet. Its rays provide the necessary light and warmth. At the same time, ultraviolet radiation from the Sun is destructive to all living things. To find a compromise between the beneficial and harmful properties of the Sun, meteorologists calculate the ultraviolet radiation index, which characterizes the degree of its danger.

What kind of UV radiation from the sun is there?

Ultraviolet radiation from the Sun has a wide range and is divided into three regions, two of which reach the Earth.

UVA. Long-wave radiation range 
315–400 nm

The rays pass almost freely through all atmospheric “barriers” and reach the Earth.
UV-B. Medium wave range radiation 
280–315 nm

The rays are 90% absorbed by the ozone layer, carbon dioxide and water vapor.
UV-C. Shortwave range radiation 
100–280 nm

The most dangerous area. They are completely absorbed by stratospheric ozone without reaching the Earth.

The more ozone, clouds and aerosols in the atmosphere, the less the harmful effects of the Sun. However, these life-saving factors have a high natural variability. The annual maximum of stratospheric ozone occurs in spring, and the minimum in autumn. Cloudiness is one of the most variable characteristics of weather. The carbon dioxide content also changes all the time.

At what UV index values is there a danger?

The UV index provides an estimate of the amount of UV radiation from the Sun at the Earth's surface. UV index values range from a safe 0 to an extreme 11+.

0–2 Low
3–5 Moderate
6–7 High
8–10 Very high
11+ Extreme

In mid-latitudes, the UV index approaches unsafe values (6–7) only at the maximum height of the Sun above the horizon (occurs in late June - early July). At the equator, the UV index reaches 9...11+ points throughout the year.

What are the benefits of the sun?

In small doses, UV radiation from the Sun is simply necessary. The sun's rays synthesize melanin, serotonin, and vitamin D, which are necessary for our health, and prevent rickets.

Melanin creates a kind of protective barrier for skin cells from the harmful effects of the Sun. Because of it, our skin darkens and becomes more elastic.

The hormone of happiness serotonin affects our well-being: it improves mood and increases overall vitality.

Vitamin D strengthens the immune system, stabilizes blood pressure and performs anti-rickets functions.

Why is the sun dangerous?

When sunbathing, it is important to understand that the line between the beneficial and harmful Sun is very thin. Excessive tanning always borders on a burn. Ultraviolet radiation damages DNA in skin cells.

The body's defense system cannot cope with such aggressive influence. It lowers immunity, damages the retina, causes skin aging and can lead to cancer.

Ultraviolet light destroys the DNA chain

How the Sun affects people

Sensitivity to UV radiation depends on skin type. People of the European race are most sensitive to the Sun - for them, protection is required already at index 3, and 6 is considered dangerous.

At the same time, for Indonesians and African Americans this threshold is 6 and 8, respectively.

Who is most influenced by the Sun?

People with fair hair 
skin tone

People with many moles

Residents of mid-latitudes during a holiday in the south

Winter lovers 
fishing

Skiers and climbers

People with a family history of skin cancer

In what weather is the sun more dangerous?

It is a common misconception that the sun is dangerous only in hot and clear weather. You can also get sunburned in cool, cloudy weather.

Cloudiness, no matter how dense it may be, does not reduce the amount of ultraviolet radiation to zero. In mid-latitudes, cloudiness significantly reduces the risk of getting sunburned, which cannot be said about traditional beach holiday destinations. For example, in the tropics, if in sunny weather you can get sunburnt in 30 minutes, then in cloudy weather - in a couple of hours.

How to protect yourself from the sun

To protect yourself from harmful rays, follow simple rules:

Spend less time in the sun during midday hours

Wear light-colored clothing, including wide-brimmed hats

Use protective creams

Wear sunglasses

Stay in the shade more on the beach

Which sunscreen to choose

Sunscreens vary in their degree of sun protection and are labeled from 2 to 50+. The numbers indicate the proportion of solar radiation that overcomes the protection of the cream and reaches the skin.

For example, when applying a cream labeled 15, only 1/15 (or 7 %) of the ultraviolet rays will penetrate the protective film. In the case of cream 50, only 1/50, or 2 %, affects the skin.

Sunscreen creates a reflective layer on the body. However, it is important to understand that no cream can reflect 100% of ultraviolet radiation.

For everyday use, when the time spent under the Sun does not exceed half an hour, a cream with protection 15 is quite suitable. For tanning on the beach, it is better to take 30 or higher. However, for fair-skinned people it is recommended to use a cream labeled 50+.

How to Apply Sunscreen

The cream should be applied evenly to all exposed skin, including the face, ears and neck. If you plan to sunbathe for a long time, then the cream should be applied twice: 30 minutes before going out and, additionally, before going to the beach.

Please check the cream instructions for the required volume for application.

How to Apply Sunscreen When Swimming

Sunscreen should be applied every time after swimming. Water washes away the protective film and, by reflecting the sun's rays, increases the dose of ultraviolet radiation received. Thus, when swimming, the risk of sunburn increases. However, due to the cooling effect, you may not feel the burn.

Excessive sweating and wiping with a towel are also reasons to re-protect the skin.

It should be remembered that on the beach, even under an umbrella, the shade does not provide complete protection. Sand, water and even grass reflect up to 20% of ultraviolet rays, increasing their impact on the skin.

How to protect your eyes

Sunlight reflected from water, snow or sand can cause painful burns to the retina. To protect your eyes, wear sunglasses with a UV filter.

Danger for skiers and climbers

In the mountains, the atmospheric “filter” is thinner. For every 100 meters of height, the UV index increases by 5 %.

Snow reflects up to 85 % of ultraviolet rays. In addition, up to 80 % of the ultraviolet light reflected by the snow cover is reflected again by clouds.

Thus, in the mountains the Sun is most dangerous. It is necessary to protect your face, lower chin and ears even in cloudy weather.