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Hand saw for wood. Restoring a Soviet hacksaw How to sharpen a hacksaw on wood - step-by-step diagram

Despite the variety of power tools for woodworking, hand saws are still popular among home craftsmen. The advantages are obvious - low cost, compact size and instant readiness for work (especially if there is no source of electricity).

Any cutting and sawing tool must be sharp; not only work efficiency, but also safety depends on this. Using too much force with a blunt tool can cause you to lose control and injure yourself. In addition, the quality of the cut made with a sharp hacksaw will be higher.

To understand how to properly sharpen a hacksaw for wood, let’s look at the structure of a popular tool:

It would seem that nothing could be simpler - a steel strip with cut teeth. However, each design is developed individually; the shape and location of the cutting elements depend on the type of wood.

Important! The general principle for all types of hacksaws is that the width of the cut should be greater than the thickness of the blade.

If you do not follow this rule, the tool will jam in the cut as it goes deeper into the material. This means that, at a minimum, it is necessary to separate the teeth of the hacksaw. The cutting edge also has features - and this directly depends on the hardness of the wood and the cutting method.

Classification of hacksaws

    1. Canvas length. The comfort of work depends on this value (you make fewer reciprocating movements), and the teeth on a long hacksaw do not clog as intensely. The general rule is that the blade for a wood saw should be twice as long as the size of the workpiece.
    1. Tooth size. The speed and quality of the cut depends on this parameter. Moreover, the criteria are mutually exclusive. A hacksaw with a fine tooth gives a high-quality and clean cut, but the speed is lower and more effort is applied. A large tooth cuts faster and easier, but the edges of the cut will be “ragged” and rough. In the parameters, the tooth size is indicated in “TPI”, the number means the number of edges per 1 inch. The higher the value, the finer the teeth

    1. Tooth shape. This parameter determines the direction of the cut (along or across the grain), the type of wood, and the vector of the applied force (from itself or towards itself). Of course, there are universal canvases. Proper sharpening of a hacksaw is carried out in accordance with the shape of the tooth

  1. Blade steel type. Classification of material is a separate topic; we are interested in the processing method. The canvas can be hardened, not hardened or combined. In the latter case, only the teeth are hardened. This can be determined by the shade of the metal - hardened steel is darker.

Important! Sharpening a hacksaw with hardened teeth is impossible.

This “disadvantage” is compensated by the slow process of dulling. If you don’t come across a nail or a hard knot, the hardened blade will last a long time. True and the price is appropriate.

Sharpening a hacksaw for wood with your own hands

Attention! Sharpening a hacksaw begins with setting the teeth.

If the instructions for the canvas do not indicate the exact parameters, the wiring is done according to the general rules:
The width of the cutting edge overhang should be 1.5 - 2 times the thickness of the blade. Wider routing is done for wet wood, or in the case of cutting along the grain. If, when processing such wood, the width of the teeth is small, the blade will jam in the cut.

He devotes a lot of time to his instrument, which comes out not only of high quality, but also damn BEAUTIFUL. Real works of art.

This time he took up a Soviet hacksaw, which he purchased at a junkyard. Her initial condition was far from ideal. But the quality of the steel from which the canvas was made is much better compared to modern Chinese products.

The old handle was mercilessly thrown away, and the teeth were sawed off, since the middle was sharpened, which led to the bending of the cutting part of the blade.
A piece of the canvas had to be cut off - it felt like nails were driving it - it was so wrinkled.
.The dents were knocked out and smoothed out with sandpaper on a block, as well as abrasive blocks. It is advisable to sand “wet”, that is, by wetting the surface to be sanded with water.

The result is such a shiny blank for the canvas. It will need to be cut to fit the new handle, and an additional hole will need to be drilled (the bottom one will go into sawdust). Drilling such steel with a simple drill is quite problematic. Vladimir got out of the situation using pobeditovoe.
And finally, the teeth. In order to cut them evenly and consistently, I had to make a special clamp that secures the canvas.

It consists of a pair of halves, between which it is clamped.

Using a ruler, mark the future teeth on the clamp (with equal pitches)

Using a triangular file, we sequentially cut them down to the piece of wood (this way the height of the teeth is adjusted).
Another indicator of the quality of steel is that one of the edges of the file has worn out significantly during operation.

It was not possible to separate the teeth with a cheap plate set - they are harder, so I had to order a good one. While she was on her way through the mail...

The next stage is making the handle. First, a blank of three layers with inserts of bog oak veneer is glued together - for beauty. The outer layers are oak, the inner layers are beech. They were glued together with a simple "Joiner's Moment".

After the glue has dried, remove the clamps. The shape of the handle was chosen to be anatomical. We print it on the printer and stick it on the workpiece. We select roundings with a Forstner drill
Next, cut along the contours with a jigsaw

The inner contour shows the rounding of the handle. We cut off the corner with a knife and rasp, welding the edges.
We finish with files
Clamping it vertically, we make a cut in the center to secure the blade.

We cut the blade according to the shape of the handle (I already mentioned this earlier)

We drill mounting holes (in the handle and in the blade). There are screws and nuts in the handle (brass, by the way), deepen them.
We sand the handle with sandpaper increasing the abrasive and coat it with oil.

Let's put everything together.

Even without sharpening, the saw cuts, or rather tears, wood perfectly. And if you sharpen it,
and even spread the teeth...

The end result was a wonderful hacksaw. You pick it up and immediately want to saw something.

Vladimir put it in his car spare parts. And we can admire the beautiful functional tools, and if the desire arises, we can do something similar.

A hacksaw is one of the most important tools on the farm. You often need to saw off, trim or shorten something, but you don’t always have a hacksaw at hand.
Today's homemade product is a kind of power tool designed for sawing small wooden parts. The base is a wide blade from a hacksaw for metal. Similar ones exist with large teeth for faster sawing.

Collecting materials and tools

For work we will need:
  • Wooden block 30x7 cm, about 2 cm thick;
  • The blade for a hacksaw for metal is wide;
  • A small piece of mild steel sheet;
  • DC motor for simulation;
  • Wooden slats for traction and backing:
  • Gear with 3 mm mounting hole;
  • Push button switch;
  • Adapter connector socket;
  • 12V adapter;
  • Superglue and wood glue (PVA);
  • A piece of an old bicycle tube;
  • Several wires, bolts and nuts and one window handle.
Tools:
  • Drill with a core drill for the diameter of the engine housing;
  • A turbine or electric sander for grinding the teeth of the blade;
  • Hot glue;
  • Soldering iron with solder and flux;
  • Wrenches;
  • Knife, screwdrivers, pliers.

Assembling an electric hacksaw

A wooden block will serve as a handle for our electric hacksaw, so it needs to be prepared. This is not just a piece of raw wood. It is desirable that it be evenly planed, with the same width of edges and planes.


We take a drill and make a hole in it with a hole saw for the engine.



Now we prepare the hacksaw blade. It needs to grind its teeth literally to the middle. This must be done on both sides using a turbine with an abrasive attachment or an electric sandpaper.




Next, we work with a piece of steel that needs to be bent like a sheath from the edges. It is in such a “sheath” that the ground part of the hacksaw blade will move. We mark a piece of steel and bend it with pliers.





To prevent the blade from sticking too tightly to the handle, it is necessary to secure it through a gasket. We make it from a thin wooden plank, which we cut to the size of the iron guides for the canvas. We sit this section of the plank on wood glue or PVA.





We attach the guides and place several mounting holes with a marker. You will need to drill them with a drill.



We fasten the guides with two self-tapping screws and cover the handle on all sides with aerosol paint. Don’t forget to also paint the rod made from the rest of the wooden plank.





It's time to mount the engine. The hole for it is made with a reserve, so to keep it firmly, we use a piece of an old bicycle tube as a gasket. We cut off the excess pieces of rubber protruding from both sides with a knife.




For the traction to work, we will need to attach a small plastic gear to the engine shaft. We use superglue for this.



We will install the connection between the gear and the rod with bolts. To do this, we fix the leading bolt at the base of the blade, and tighten it with a nut and a lock nut so that it does not unwind.




We make a hole in the gear with a small drill for the next connecting bolt. We insert it into the gear and also tighten it with nuts.




We mark the rod-bar according to the minimum size between the two bolts, and drill a hole in it for them.





We fasten the rod similarly to the nuts, but so that it moves freely on a pendulum stroke.





We attach a window handle to the upper edge of the handle for ease of use with the tool.


This tool should be in every man's arsenal, along with a hammer and a screwdriver, regardless of his occupation and carpentry skills. We are talking about a regular hacksaw. However, manufacturers have long adapted even ordinary tools for a variety of purposes - in stores you will find not only a hacksaw for wood and metal, but also specialized tools for drywall and foam concrete.

Wood saw - select tooth size

Even if you already have a hacksaw on your farm, it is quite possible that it will not be suitable for your purposes, so sooner or later you may need to go for a new saw. When choosing this tool, knowledge about its structure and features will be useful. If the saw has straight teeth, it will be easiest for it to cut wood crosswise; to cut wood along the grain, you will need a tool with inclined teeth. In accordance with their inclination, the hacksaw will be transverse or longitudinal. If you craft often, you'll need both options.

A hacksaw with large teeth cuts the fastest, but with it you will not achieve a smooth edge of the cut. For working in the garden or quickly cutting rough boards, this saw is quite suitable for you. For a cleaner cut edge, a tool with a fine tooth is used, but working with such a hacksaw is slower - it is more difficult to remove sawdust from the cut.

For cutting coarse-grained wood across the grain, a saw with large teeth is best; for general sawing needs, choose a medium tooth, and if you need precise work, choose a hacksaw with a fine tooth.

A carpenter's saw with a very fine tooth is used by professional carpenters; it is unlikely to be useful on the farm. There is also a mechanical hacksaw - this is a small machine with a mechanically movable blade, these are used in factories for sawing metal pipes and other metal elements; in a home workshop it will be replaced by a hacksaw for metal.

Hacksaw: tooth pitch and blade length

Tooth pitch is another characteristic that affects the quality and ease of cutting. It is measured in millimeters; this concept refers to the distance between the tops of adjacent teeth. The length of the saw blade depends proportionally on the size and pitch of the tooth - the larger these parameters, the longer the tool should be. The length of a small hacksaw usually does not exceed 350 mm, a medium saw reaches 550 mm, and a tool with a large tooth must be at least 600 mm.

When purchasing, inquire about the sharpening of the saw - if we are talking about triple tooth sharpening, then it will be convenient to work with any arrangement of fibers, both in forward and reverse strokes. In addition, when triple sharpening, such a technique as setting the teeth does not need to be used - the hacksaw will be effective without it.

Tempered saw - what is characteristic of such a hacksaw?

The steel from which the tool blade is made must be elastic and durable. Curvature of the blade when jammed, rapid dulling of the teeth indicate low quality steel. To maintain the sharpness of the tool for as long as possible without compromising the elasticity of the blade, manufacturers resort to a little trick - they harden only the teeth. In this case, they acquire a blue-black color, which makes it very easy to distinguish a hardened instrument from a regular one.. Such saws are especially convenient for cutting artificial materials such as plywood, plastic, and plaster. However, it must be protected from getting on nails, otherwise, if such teeth are damaged, it will no longer be possible to restore their former sharpness.

If you still have your father’s old tools in your workshop at home, you don’t need to throw them away, you just need to know some of the features of caring for them. For example, to prevent the hacksaw blade from jamming when cutting, it is necessary to regularly set the teeth apart and sharpen them.

How to sharpen a hacksaw for wood - step by step

If you are wondering how to make a hacksaw perfectly sharp, do not rush to grab a file - haste will only make things worse. Sharpening teeth is a separate process that has several stages. First, check if you have the right tool - when sharpening cross-cut saws, you cannot do without a triangular file with a fine notch and an angle of 60°; for a longitudinal tool, you will need a diamond-shaped file.

How to sharpen a hacksaw for wood - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Align the teeth in height

To determine which tooth is lagging in height, take a smaller file and run it along the top of the teeth. Untouched tips will show us defects in the saw. In this case, all other teeth must be filed with a file to the lowest level. To avoid injuring your hands, you can cut out a nest for a file in a piece of wood, secure it in it, and then safely straighten the teeth.

Step 2: Saw the canvas

Check the teeth for their relationship to each other. Short elements make cutting difficult, especially after several sharpenings. In this case, cuts are made in the blade itself, which lengthen the teeth. We clamp the tool blade in a vice, setting the teeth at the same level as the edges of the vice to prevent the cut from being too deep. You will need a hacksaw for metal - use it to cut the blade to the desired tooth height. The saw will work best if the width of the teeth is one and a half times smaller than their height.

Step 3: Spread the teeth

It's time to start setting up the saw. If you do the cutting with ordinary pliers, then you will never be able to achieve a uniform, precise spreading to the sides - as a result, the saw will begin to tear the wood, creating a lot of waste and creating a sloppy cut. Therefore, prepare in advance a simple tool that you can make yourself - cut a groove in a strip of thin metal into which a tooth can easily fit, and drill several holes in it to secure the limiter. The limiter can be cut with metal scissors, giving it the angle required for wiring.

We attach the limiter to the bar and test it in practice, increasing or decreasing the bend angle if necessary. Using such a tool, the wiring will be exactly the same. It does not need to be done often, once every two or three sharpenings. Obviously, the teeth need to be moved in different directions, taking turns. When setting, you should not go too far with the distance at which the top of each clove is bent - too small a distance will not do anything, too much will complicate the cutting process and turn a large amount of material into sawdust.

Step 4: Sharpening

Now we come directly to how to sharpen a hacksaw for wood. It is most convenient to secure the blade on the edge of the work table, placing a board under the hacksaw so that the blade does not rest on the handle. Maintain the same sharpening angle as before. First, go along one side of all the teeth, moving the file away from the blade of the hacksaw towards the tip, then repeat the process, sharpening the other side. Having turned the blade itself over, go through the teeth again with a file in the same order.

Be careful not to shorten them by sharpening too hard. In total, the process will take you from half an hour to an hour, depending on how much you have already practiced in this matter. This time will more than pay off when working with a hacksaw.


In this article we will talk about what a hand saw for wood is and how to choose this tool.

How to make the right choice

Hand saws for wood have cutting teeth of different sizes. This characteristic determines the future cut, suitable types of timber and whether it will be comfortable to hold in your hands. However, there are a number of other indicators that are worth paying attention to when purchasing an instrument.

Main characteristics:

  • web width
  • blade length
  • tooth size
  • handle shape
  • blade steel grade.

The length of the file affects the width of the workpiece being processed, and also greatly simplifies the work. A long stroke allows you to spend less force, because during one movement the cut is carried out by a large number of teeth. However, a long canvas will have a noticeable spring. When working with hard types of wood, for example, ash, maple or oak, the hacksaw will not be convenient and will quickly become dull.

Most often, the blade has a width of 10 to 20 cm. Narrower files will break even with slight bending, and wider files are inconvenient for manual labor. Remember that when working with thin workpieces you need to use thin saws, and when working with thick ones, respectively, thick saws.

Many models have a plastic handle. Choose options with a rubberized backing, which protects against calluses and also allows for a tighter grip.

The saw tooth is the most important part of the tool. The teeth are:

  • for universal cutting
  • for cross cutting
  • for longitudinal cutting.

Classification

Hand saws for wood come in a variety of configurations. Hence there are a large number of different models. The following types of hand saws are distinguished:

Types of teeth

The most common tooth shapes in hand saws are:


If you correctly replace the regular gasoline saw motor with strong hands, you can get a compact and versatile tool for cutting firewood or pruning trees. Next we will talk about how to make a handsaw from a chainsaw chain.

In order to make such a device you will need:

  • broken or old chain from a chain saw
  • small nylon straps
  • waxed linen thread
  • nylon cord
  • thick needle
  • chain cutting device.

First of all, you need to cut the chain. You need to start by cutting one link of the chain to break the loop. The chainsaw is made from hardened tool steel, so it won't be easy to cut. There is no connecting link on such a chain, so simply disconnecting the chain will not work. You can use a band saw. If you don’t have such a machine, you need to arm yourself with a file or an abrasive disc. Of course, such work will take a decent amount of time.

After the chain is cut, its ends need to be inserted into small straps made of nylon tube. You need to cut a piece of braid 18 inches long and melt the ends with a match or lighter to prevent them from fraying. After this, you just need to insert the end of the chain about 6 inches into the braid.

Next you need to sew on the handles of a homemade handsaw using waxed linen thread. You need to stitch around the chain as tightly as possible so that it does not slip out of the strap. It is worth wrapping the second edge of the strap around your hand to form a fairly large loop for your hand.

The next step is to wrap the handles with nylon cord. Unfortunately, linen thread is not strong enough to hold the chain during long-term use, so the edges of the straps should also be securely secured with nylon cord. You can use the clew knot method to maintain a tight winding of the cord along the entire length of the wrapper.

After this, your homemade saw will be completely ready for use. It can be used alone or with an assistant, it all depends on the dimensions of the wood being cut. To work, you need to wrap the chain on the desired branch and pull it from side to side by the handles.

Today you learned about what a hand saw for wood is. Its price depends on the functionality and the manufacturing company.

The first iron saws were invented by Scandinavian craftsmen. They cast saws in stone molds. But due to the low quality of the metal used, such saws were never able to compete with axes. Only many centuries later did ancient Greek blacksmiths begin to create saws using the forging method. This method made it possible to significantly increase the hardness of the metal and, as a result, the quality of the products increased. There are many different saws available today. In this article we will look at a two-handed saw