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How to make pince-nez from glasses. A small incomplete overview of pince-nez designs

It's hard to find a person who doesn't have a pair of glasses at home, at least dark ones. Many of them gather dust in drawers and are not worn by their owners due to the purchase of new models. Don’t rush to throw away your “old” friends, because even ordinary glasses can be decorated using the simplest and most inexpensive tools and materials. In this way, you can update a worn-out frame that has served you faithfully for several years, or (an option for the brave) make the glasses you just bought unique.

So, we present to you 10 ideas for decorating glasses!

Regular glasses + two-color polish

You will need:

Nail polish in two colors;
- narrow masking tape;

1. Use a strip of masking tape to separate the half of the glasses that will be painted a different color.

2. Apply varnish to one half of the first color. Leave for 20 minutes.

3. Remove a strip of masking tape and varnish the other half of the glasses.

Turning regular glasses into cat eyes

Or you can make glasses like J.Lo’s by gluing silver sparkling “ears”:

Beaded glasses

You will need:

Beads;
- glue.

Glasses decorated with beads

You will need:

Half beads (you can buy them in stores that sell everything for creativity);
- glue.

"Friday" glasses with sparkles

You will need:

Sequins (creativity stores will tell you what they are) and sparkles;
- glue;
- parchment for baking;
- pencil.

1. Draw the shape of the frame on baking paper. Apply glue generously and sprinkle with glitter. Leave it for a while.

2. Cut out a glitter frame from baking paper.

3. Glue the paper frame onto the regular one.

Happy Friday!

Glasses with buttons

You will need:
- glue;
- buttons.

Carefully glue buttons of different sizes onto the frame.

Glasses decorated with flowers

You will need:

Glue;
- paper or fabric flowers.

Glue flowers into the corner of the frame, just don’t overdo it with the number of flowers. These glasses will be a great addition to a light summer dress.

Glamor glasses

You will need:

Glasses with removable lenses;
- lace;
- a thread of sequins;
- glue;
- golden ceramic paint (can be replaced with nail polish).

1. Cover the temples of the glasses with a thread of sequins. It is better to take glue that does not harden instantly. Otherwise, the slightest mistake can ruin your glasses.

2. We cut out a square of lace that will be slightly larger than the lens, so that there is fabric left for the hem.

3. We take the glass out of the frame and apply glue along its contour. Glue the lace, tucking it inward. We insert the glass into the frame and trim the lace from the inside.

4. Apply stripes and dots to the frame with gold paint.

Glasses with bright temples

You will need:

Self-adhesive or regular colored paper;
- glue (if the paper is regular);
- scissors.

Draw the frame of the glasses on paper and cut it out. Carefully place it on the temple of the glasses, trim if necessary, and glue.

Using this method, you can not only decorate your glasses, but also hide some frame defects.

Spiked glasses

These glasses look very cool, and the cost of making them is minimal.

You will need:

Glue;
- tips from ordinary ballpoint pens;
- rhinestones (optional).

Carefully glue the pen tips onto the frame. You can additionally decorate your glasses with rhinestones in the corners of the glasses.

A man who looked like an undertaker - a black high hat, a black long-skirted frock coat - introduced himself as Mr. Smith and had been sitting silently for several minutes, leafing through papers from a thick folder and from time to time glancing meaningfully at Thomas, clearly expecting that he would not stand the silence and begin to ask questions. questions or, say, indignation at illegal detention. However, Thomas, as an experienced gambler, and, to be honest, even a sharpie, knew how to keep a calm face and was very patient. Moreover, they took him in the wrong place. O a gentleman should be.

Smith was the first to break down. He closed the folder and pushed it aside slightly with disgust.

As you can see, we have been watching you for a long time, Mr. Anders. - the capital “M” was clearly heard in the word “We”, - Outwardly, you are a completely well-behaved subject of Her Majesty, however... Let's speak directly. We know a lot about your card dealings. For example, yesterday, in the Pig and Whistle pub, one inconspicuous but very observant man carefully documented all the tricks that you used to fleece your partners... - Thomas opened his mouth to be indignant, but Smith raised his hand, stopping him, - Don’t bother objecting, Mr. Anders - it’s useless. Of course, gambling is not a crime. What about fraud? Already an article, isn't it? Be silent... But you know what? For us, it makes no significant difference what a respectable master optician does in his spare time, study mathematical treatises, cheat at cards or kill prostitutes, like some... The main thing, Mr. Anders, is that your... hmm... hobby is illegal, and you can be caught on it. Just don’t think that we are threatening you with prison, it’s vulgar, don’t you agree? But... After all, you don’t want, for example, Crooked Jack or, for example, Dirty Carrigan, to find out that their losses are not completely accidental? I see you don’t want to... - Smith fell silent.

In this case, please explain what you need from me. - said Thomas, feeling that the pause was prolonged. He spoke calmly and even somewhat arrogantly, realizing that right now he would not be dragged to jail or to the defrauded bandits - them For some reason, it is he, Thomas Anders, a famous optician and an unknown sharper, who is needed.

We know that a dangerous criminal, a terrorist, the head of the Luddites, nicknamed... - Smith hesitated a little, - Sandman, Sandman, is going to contact you. However, they say that he calls himself in the Greek manner - Morpheus. You, of course, know about him from newspapers and street chatter,” hearing the questioning intonation, Thomas nodded leisurely, “for some reason, he especially doesn’t like calculating machines and tries to destroy them everywhere, and in place of his... shares he usually leaves something unclear for now.” the inscription “The Sky Network must be stopped.” One of his recent cases is the barbaric destruction of Babbage's device, exhibited at the Science Museum. Things didn't go too smoothly there; he had to hide in a hurry and lost his famous pince-nez. He will certainly come to you to order the same or similar. So, we want...

It is unknown how this conversation ended, since many archives are now lost. What is certain, however, is that Thomas did make a pince-nez for the Sandman, since, firstly, he was never seen without it, and, secondly, at some point it became a little different. However, apparently for reasons of anonymity or at the insistence of the customer, the master did not put his personal mark, replacing it with a fictitious one...

I have long wanted to make a minimalist pince-nez, like Morpheus (The Matrix), with a spring clip. Therefore, with a certain ancient Russian melancholy, I looked.
And then a forced break in work turned up and a pair of polarizing filters from Uncle Liao fell into my raking hands.

I wanted to do it entirely using soldering (hard solder), the screws are only on the glass fastenings.
Here they are, glass.

It even looks like they're real.

The first thing I did was make a clip on the nose, where would we be without it, the central element, yeah, in every sense. The clamp, in the end, turned out completely different from the original. Well, okay.
First I tore the spring out of the alligator clip, then from the old 3.5" disk drive, and finally from the 10-ruble crab clip on my hair. She turned out to be the most dexterous of all.

Glass fasteners, raw and treated.

I soldered, actively using the “third hand” - contrary to some opinions, it almost does not take away heat. Another advantage is that, if necessary, you can press the parts together, catching the crocodile directly at the soldering site. Yes, it (“crocodile”) gets hot, and after a couple of times its spring becomes unusable, but it costs a penny and I consider them as a consumable.

Processing, polishing...

Assembled:

And then I realized that I couldn’t do without a nose piece. It’s simple: in a calm state everything was fine, even with a fairly strong head shake, but with strong emotions (especially the “His face is stretched out”) type, the clamp slipped and the pince-nez tilted forward threateningly. It turned out like this:

And then the legend obliged me to make a case. Work didn’t take off, he only came to his senses towards the end.
Actually, the box is made of thick cardboard, reinforced with several layers of papier-mâché. The outside is covered with one layer of fleece, then covered with leather.

On the lid is the same fictitious personal sign. Brass, LUT, ammonia fumes.

All!
Special thanks.

Glasses is an optical device used for optical correction of human vision in case it deviates from the norm and protects the eyes from dangerous external influences.

Repairing glasses requires a tool that rarely anyone has at hand. If you do not have the opportunity to repair your glasses yourself, you can contact professionals who will repair them, and if repair is impossible, they will help you choose new ones.

If the screw for fastening the glass or in the hinge for fastening the temple (arm) is simply unscrewed, then even a child can cope with such a repair; just take a watch screwdriver or a knife with a sharp end and tighten the screw, without applying more force, until it stops.

But if the frame of the glasses breaks at the place of the nose, or the temple breaks off at the hinge, then such a breakdown of the glasses is no longer easy to fix; repairs require tools and knowledge of technology.

In modern glasses, the temples are often attached to the hinges using flex. This mechanism is a spring that fixes the temple (arm) in a given position and allows the temples to move apart, in contrast to the standard 100˚ angle of ordinary glasses, by an angle of up to 160˚.

Frames with flexes eliminate pressure on the head when wearing glasses and distortion of the frame when removing glasses with one hand, so glasses with flexes last longer and are more comfortable to wear. But the more complex the glasses are, the more likely they are to break.

How to tighten a screw
in the hinge for fastening glasses frames with flexes

If it is not difficult to screw in a screw that has fallen out in the hinge of simple glasses, then in glasses equipped with flexes it is not as simple a task as it seems at first glance. When attaching the temple, the screw passes through the movable flex bar, and if the screw is unscrewed, the flex bar is pulled into the cavity of the temple and the mounting hole in the frame does not coincide with the hole on the temple. It is impossible to tighten the screw.

When analyzing the breakdown, everything became clear; you need to pull out the flex bar and screw the screw into place. The bar can be easily pulled out using an awl or a needle if you thread it through the hole for the screw, but then there is nowhere to screw the screw. Otherwise, it seems like there’s nothing to grab onto. But if you look closely, it turns out that there is a ledge in the bar protruding from the temple, beyond which it can be pulled out. Only the problem of a lack of hands arises. A vice can serve as a third hand.

The earhook is clamped into the jaws of a vice; if the material from which the earhook is made is soft, then you need to place a piece of leather between the jaws of the vise. But even with the help of a vice, screwing a screw into the frame of glasses is not easy, since you have to hold the base of the frame with one hand and at the same time, with the same hand, use a small screwdriver to move the flex bar up so that the holes coincide. With your second hand you need to insert a screw into the aligned holes and screw it in. I only succeeded after a few tries.

The original screw was lost and had to be screwed in with a suitable diameter that came from a broken calculator. Before assembling the glasses, you must first tighten the new screw with force, thereby cutting a new thread. In order to prevent the screw from unscrewing again, I riveted it a little on the side where it exits the frame of the glasses.

If a suitable screw cannot be found, it can be replaced with a brass or steel rod of a suitable diameter for fixation by riveting its ends, as described below.

Repair of flex glasses frames with flex

I received a pair of glasses for repair, the temple of which broke off at the point where the hinge was attached to the flex.

The load on the junction of the temple with the flex is large and repairing glasses with superglue or epoxy resin would not provide a reliable connection. The only option left was the mechanical repair method.

At the end of the temple of the glasses there was a hole with a rectangular groove, and the counter part of the part, which went into this hole and was fixed in the hinge of the frame, was a narrow flat steel strip about 1 mm thick. The only possible reliable method of repair was to connect the parts using a rivet.

There are no industrially manufactured rivets for such minor repairs. But a brass sewing pin with a metal head 0.7 mm in diameter worked well as a rivet. The size of the pin determined the diameter of the holes that needed to be drilled in the parts to be joined.

Before drilling, you need to make markings. The first hole must be drilled in the earpiece (arm), at a point calculated so that it passes through the center of the strip secured in the hinge of the frame.

To do this, the earhook needs to be clamped in a vice. Between the jaws of the vice, so as not to damage the covering of the temples, place pieces of leather and use a core to mark the drilling point.

Next, you need to drill a hole in the earhook. It is difficult to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.7 mm with a powerful household drill without breaking the drill, since it is impossible to feel the pressure on the drill due to the greater mass of the drill and this will lead to inevitable breakage of the drill. For such work, you need a miniature drill, for example, like in a homemade mini drilling machine.

You also need to drill a hole in the flat plate that secures the temple to the frame hinge. Before drilling, you need to mark the drilling point. To do this, the plate is inserted all the way into the groove of the temple located at its end and in this form the assembly is clamped in a vice lined with leather. The temple of the glasses should take a position relative to the frame that corresponds to the glasses being worn on the person’s head.

The hole previously drilled in the temple will serve as a conductor; inserting a drill into it will drill a hole in the plate. You need to drill very carefully, using little force, as the drill can easily be broken.

The holes are drilled, and you can begin the final stage of repairing the glasses, connecting with rivets. The flat plate is inserted all the way into the groove of the temple, and the pin is threaded through the holes.

Using pliers, the pin on the opposite side of the head is shortened so that the protruding part is 0.2-0.3 mm high.

To complete the repair, all that remains is to flare the protruding part of the pin using a small hammer. To do this, you need to press the round head of the pin against the anvil and with light blows, changing the angle, flatten the part of the pin protruding above the temple.

If you don’t have a small hammer, you can flare the pin with a large hammer, applying weak blows to the protrusion of the pin through the metal rod.

As you can see, the repair of the glasses is completed, the connection of the temples with the base using rivets turned out to be neat and did not spoil the aesthetic appearance of the glasses.

While I was repairing the glasses, putting one temple in place, the second one broke. I had to repair it using the technology described above. Now the glasses will last a long time after repair, and time has confirmed this. I tested the technology for repairing glasses with rivets on several types of glasses frames; after the repair, the glasses at the junction of the temples with the console no longer broke.

Repairing the temple of glasses with a broken hinge

A neighbor approached me with a request to try to repair his favorite glasses, since a specialized workshop refused to repair him - they advised him to buy new ones.

The arm of the glasses broke at the hinge and at first glance it seemed that it was impossible to repair the glasses. But if you think about it, you can always find a way to repair it.

First you need to unscrew the self-tapping screw and glue the broken part of the loop to the earhook using Super-glue “Contact”. I often use this glue to glue any cracked or broken parts together. But in this case, the fracture area is small and the glue will not hold securely. Therefore, the parts were glued together mainly for the convenience of further repairs.

Next, a bracket was bent from a paper clip, as shown in the photograph, and, using heating with an electric soldering iron, fused in the longitudinal direction of the temple. The middle of the bracket should follow the crack line.

To ensure a secure connection, a second bracket was fused across the temple. To avoid burning your fingers and to fuse the bracket into the desired place on the earhook, it is convenient to hold it with tweezers. It takes up to a minute to warm up the brackets, there is no need to rush here. When the bracket warms up to the melting temperature of the plastic, it will easily fit into it.

After the brackets are fused into the temple, all that remains is to smooth out the protruding plastic and cut off the excess after it has cooled with a knife or grind it off with fine-grained sandpaper. If the bracket appears on the surface, then it can be heated again and sunk deeper.

Now the brackets are no longer visible, the resistance to breakage after reinforcement with steel brackets of the temple has become higher than before. The glasses will no longer break at this point. If desired, the joint can be polished, making it completely invisible.

The repairs have been completed and now the glasses look like new and, if treated with care, will last a long time. When I returned the glasses to my neighbor, he was very surprised that they were able to be repaired, but he doubted whether the temple would break off in this place again. After a month of wearing it, he started asking me what kind of glue I used to glue the glasses together. After all, he did not know that the bow at the site of the breakdown was reinforced with metal brackets.

Repair of the place where the temple of glasses is attached to the rim

Another pair of glasses with a broken temple went into repair. But in this case, the temple was intact, but the place where it was attached to the headband was destroyed.

The earhook loop was made of brass so it didn't break. This failure is more likely due to a design flaw in the frames of the glasses, rather than to handling them.

The earhook loop was attached to a rectangular hole made in the frame using one self-tapping screw screwed into the metal of the loop. When wearing glasses, the screw slowly unscrewed, and the load on the plastic increased, which is why it cracked. Ultimately, the self-tapping screw was completely unscrewed and lost, causing the shackle to fall out of the mount.

There was no screw suitable for the size, so I had to use a standard M1.5. To do this, a thread was cut in the hinge bar with a tap.

The plate on the rim for securing the earhook loop had a crack. But installing a metal bracket to strengthen it was not advisable, since it was necessary not only to strengthen the plate, but also to increase the support area of the screw head

Therefore, a washer with a ribbed circumference was selected and fused into the plate by heating it with a soldering iron. As a result, the area of support of the screw head on the plastic increased many times over, and the crack partially melted, which also increased its strength.

Next, the mating surfaces of the plates were lubricated with Super-Moment glue, the hinge plate was inserted into the square hole of the base of the glasses and the screw was tightened. At the same time, the broken fragment from the frame was also glued. It did not bear the load and therefore there was no need to strengthen its fastening with a bracket.

The next glasses were repaired with our own hands and their use for several months confirmed the reliability of the repairs performed.

Half-rim frame repair
with lens mount on fishing line

In a semi-rimless frame, the lenses are half mounted in the frame, and the rest of them are held in the frame by a fishing line, half recessed in the bevel (a groove running along the entire length of the end of the lens). Thanks to this method of attaching lenses, glasses have an elegant appearance and are lighter in weight compared to rim frames, especially if the lenses are plastic.

But you have to pay for elegance with a more careful attitude during use, since such a frame, compared to a bezel frame, is less reliable. If you forget to take off your glasses and start to remove a piece of clothing over your head, it may well happen that the glass falls out or the fishing line jumps out of the frame, as in the photo. If the lens falls out, but the fishing line remains securely fastened in the half-rim, then due to the elasticity of the fishing line, the lens can be put back in place. If the fishing line is disconnected from the frame, you will need to replace the fishing line with a new one.

But don’t get upset and run to the workshop; such a breakdown of the semi-rimless frame of glasses is not difficult to fix with your own hands. For repairs, ten centimeters of transparent fishing line with a diameter of 0.8 mm is enough. You can ask fishermen you know for fishing line or ask at any fishing tackle store. They cut off half a meter for me as a thank you.

The first step when starting repairs is to remove the old fishing line from the frame. Usually it is enough to move the fishing line back and forth with force and it will move from the place of attachment. If its melted ends interfere, the line can be cut. It won't be needed anymore anyway.

After freeing the holes from the old fishing line, you need to check whether the fishing line purchased for repair fits well. To do this, you need to bite off one of its ends with side cutters or cut off obliquely so that the end of the fishing line becomes sharp. This will make it easier to insert it into the holes of the frame.

If the fishing line cannot be threaded through the mounting hole of the frame, it needs to be cleaned. This is best done using a mini drill with a drill bit with a diameter of 0.8 mm. But if this is not possible, then you can use a needle or a thin awl; an unbent paper clip will also do.

The holes in the half-rim of the frame are cone-shaped; on the lens side their diameters are 0.8 mm, and on the outer side 1.5 mm. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Thus, by melting the end of the fishing line, you can securely secure it in the frame.

First, the fishing line is threaded through the hole that is located in the nose pad, without a lens. Next, the end of the fishing line is melted using a soldering iron and quickly, before the end of the fishing line hardens, it is pulled into the hole in the nose pad. You need to retract it slowly so that the line does not jump out of the hole.

If you have a high-power soldering iron at your disposal, you can wind several turns of any wire with a diameter of 1-2 mm, copper, aluminum or steel, around its tip. And with this improvised sting, warm up the fishing line. If you don’t have a soldering iron, you can melt the fishing line with a nail heated on the burner of a gas stove. To avoid getting burned, the nail must be held with pliers. You can use the sharp tip of a heated electric iron or, at worst, even a small flame from a lighter to melt the fishing line.

After fixing one end of the fishing line in the nose pad, the lens is inserted and the fishing line threaded into the hole on the side of the temple is stretched. Next, the fishing line is pressed with your fingers where it passes through the facet of the lens, and is cut so that its end protrudes from the hole by a couple of millimeters. Next, the lens is removed, the second end of the fishing line is melted and after cooling, its lens is installed in the half-rim.

Remains of melted fishing line protruding from the holes of the frame must be cut off flush with a sharp knife.

The glasses have been repaired and are like new. The repair took less time than it took to read this article, which I hope was useful to you.

Repairing a broken half-rim of a glasses frame

A few years passed, and my favorite half-rim glasses with a fishing line cracked as a result of a collision with the right angle of a kitchen shelf.

As you can see in the photo, the frame broke in the glass installation area at the narrowest point. To repair it, gluing technology was used, followed by reinforcement of the fracture site with a metal bracket.

In the first step, the frame must be glued with Super-Moment glue or similar, intended for gluing plastic products. To do this, you must first apply a thin layer of glue to the inside of the rim of the frame, which is in contact with the glass along its entire length. Next, also apply a thin layer of glue to the end of the glass in contact with the frame.

After gluing, a small gap was discovered between the glass and the nose pad. To ensure reliable gluing, a small amount of soda was poured into this gap and then soaked in glue.

After such gluing, the frame received sufficient strength, but for higher joint strength, a metal bracket made from a paper clip was additionally installed.

The bracket was fused into the glasses frame using an electric soldering iron. For clarity, the photo shows the bracket not yet completely recessed into the plastic.

Ultimately, the bracket was completely recessed into the plastic of the glasses, the area was cleaned with sandpaper and polished with felt. There are practically no traces of repairs left.

In the same way, you can successfully repair the plastic temples and cracked frames where the nose rests with your own hands.

Repairing a broken plastic rim of a glasses frame

I had to repair glasses with plastic frames, in which one of the plastic glasses fell out of the rim.

Upon closer examination, it turned out that the rim at the bottom was cracked in half. This is one of the glasses breakdowns that you can fix yourself in a few minutes.

To do this, just apply Super glue to the crack and on the inside of the rim a couple of centimeters away from the crack. Next, insert the glass into the rim, squeeze it tightly and hold it there for a couple of minutes.

The rim of the glasses at the crack site does not bear any force load, and therefore there is no need for reinforcement with steel wire. The glasses have been repaired, the appearance has not changed, and now, if treated with care, they will last a long time.

Repairing metal eyeglass frames with a broken rim

They brought me glasses with metal frames with a broken rim at the bridge of my nose, which the repair shop refused to repair. The breakdown was really serious. Glue, even the strongest one, will not hold in this case, since the area of the end of the rim at the fracture site was no more than a square millimeter.

I, too, immediately thought that this was a hopeless case and it was impossible to repair the glasses, but after a while I suddenly came up with an idea on how to do without welding metal. After all, you can repair the frame by gluing the broken metal frame directly to the lens of the glasses. The area of the gluing surfaces will become large and, thus, sufficient strength of the frame will be ensured after the repair as a whole.

The universal super glue “Contact” is well suited for gluing frames. This adhesive is made on the basis of cyanoacrylate, has great adhesive strength and polymerizes upon contact with water in the air. The higher the air humidity, the faster the glue hardens, so you can glue even damp surfaces. The setting time of the glue, depending on air humidity, ranges from several seconds to several minutes. The glue hardens completely within a day.

By the way, not all home craftsmen know that if you need to quickly repair a crack or chip in hard materials, you can prepare homemade putty by mixing super glue with baking soda.

The lenses of the glasses were plastic, and to protect them from glue getting on the optical surface, strips of tape had to be glued on both sides around the perimeter of the lens. It is not advisable to cover the entire surface of the lens with a single piece of tape, since after gluing it will be difficult to peel it off without damaging the optical surface of the lens. Excess tape on the ends of the lens can be easily removed using fine sandpaper.

If the lenses are made of glass, then there is no need to glue the tape. Super glue is easily softened with acetone, which is safe for glass. Therefore, to remove residual adhesive after repair from the optical surface of the lenses, it is enough to wipe them with a soft cloth soaked in this solvent.

Before gluing, you need to think through all the movements and practice placing the lens in the frame before applying glue to it. When the movements are practiced, you need to apply glue to the end of the lens, accurately insert it into place in the frame and tighten the frame ring with your fingers for a few minutes. I could not take photographs of applying the glue and installing the lens, since only a few seconds were allotted for this operation.

When the glue has set, remove the tape and tighten the frame with thread, tying it as in the photo. The glasses should be left bandaged for a day until the glue has completely hardened. If there is a gap between the rim of the frame and the lens, it is advisable to additionally fill it with super glue.

Checking the glasses frame after repair with gluing showed that it has a sufficient margin of safety for further use. The appearance of the glasses remained without visible changes.

Repairing a broken eyeglass frame temple

At the request of a friend, I had to repair glasses where one of the temples had broken in half. The breakdown occurred at the junction of its metal part with the plastic extension.

The metal part of the temple was attached to the plastic part by means of a protruding pin, which was tightly inserted into the hole in the plastic part of the temple and secured with a screw. It was not possible to remove the pin from the plastic after unscrewing the screw, since the breakage occurred along the line of the plastic, and it was impossible for the tool to catch on the pin. I also didn’t want to grind down the plastic to shorten the temple.

The difficulty of repairing the earhook at first glance was aggravated by the fact that the metal part was covered in openwork holes. But as it turned out, this was a plus. To restore the integrity of the temple, a specially shaped pad was made from a sheet of brass 1 mm thick. I do not give the geometric dimensions of the pad, since all temples are different and the pad for repairing a specific glasses frame will have its own dimensions, depending on the width of the temple at the point of breakage.

As you can see from the photo, two holes were drilled in the cover and three bends were made. The bends are needed to prevent axial swing of the connected parts of the temple. The dimensions of the holes determined the finished holes in the metal and plastic parts of the temple, and were 2.5 mm and 1.5 mm in diameter, respectively.

The metal part of the temple was secured to the pad using a shortened M2.5 screw with a conical head. The screw was used as a rivet.

It was inserted from the outside of the metal part of the temple and riveted from the inside with a small hammer. To ensure that the riveted part of the screw does not protrude into the plate, the hole was pre-countersinked.

The pad was secured to the plastic part of the temple using an M1.5 screw screwed into the previously existing threaded hole in the remaining pin.

The photo shows a view of the pad after installing the screw and rivet on the inside of the temple.

And in this photo is a view from the outside of the temple after connecting its broken parts.

All that remains is to attach the earpiece to the frame of the glasses using a standard screw and the repair can be considered complete.

This is what the glasses looked like after the repair. If you don’t look closely, it’s difficult to notice the restored place on the earhook; it’s not noticeable. But the earhook has become much stronger and now it will definitely never break in this place.

Repair of plastic glasses frames
with broken headband and earhook loop

Glasses with frames made of thermoplastic plastic are easier to repair, since it melts easily when heated, adheres well, and is dissolved by certain types of solvents, for example, dichloroethane or benzene.

I was faced with the repair of glasses with plastic frames, which were broken in three places at once. The right ear hook of the frame was broken off.

Also, as can be seen in the photo, part of the rim on the side where the temple was attached to the base was broken off. Apparently, the glasses were accidentally sat on or stepped on.

The repairs had to be carried out in two stages. First, using super-glue “Contact” using the technology described above, used to repair a metal frame of glasses with a broken rim at the bridge, the broken plastic part of the rim was glued to its original place.

In the glasses being repaired, the temples were equipped with flexes, which, during use, would create a large load on the glued part of the rim. Therefore, to ensure sufficient strength of the rim, two steel brackets, bent from a paper clip, were additionally installed at the gluing site, fused into the plastic.

To fuse a paper clip, you need to take it with tweezers and apply it to the place with the crack, as shown in the photo. Next, use a soldering iron tip with a power of 12-40 W to heat the bracket, lightly pressing on it from above. This usually takes a few minutes. There is no need to rush here.

When the bracket has entered the plastic a little, you can remove the tweezers and then, pressing, continue to heat the bracket until it is completely sunk into the base of the glasses.

Next, use a soldering iron tip to smooth out the plastic squeezed out by the bracket so that the bracket is completely hidden. After the plastic has hardened, the resulting unevenness is ground off with a file or sandpaper, and the roughness is removed by polishing with felt. After this, you can begin repairing the hinge joint.

First, you need to remove the remaining loop with side cutters and use a file to level the surface of the junction of the temple with the base of the glasses.

You need to bend a rectangular loop from copper or steel wire ∅1-1.5 mm. The photo shows a loop made from electrical wiring wire. Copper, unlike steel, bends easily and has sufficient strength.

Based on the size of the base, the ends of the loop are shortened to the required length and moved apart. This shape of the loop will ensure its reliable fixation in the plastic case of the glasses.

Next, the eyelet is placed on a flat surface covered with a soft cloth and pressed down with a heavy object. The base is placed close to it, as in the photograph. All that remains is to fuse the homemade eyelet into the body of the base of the glasses using the technology described above for the bracket. After cooling, the hinged joint made will hold quite tightly and work well. If the plastic at the melting point loses its shine, then you can cover this place with a thin layer of liquid transparent nail polish. Varnish is usually solvent-based, which softens the thermoplastic plastic.

As you can see in the photo, the repaired hinge joint of the glasses turned out to be quite neat.

From the outside, traces of repair of the plastic frame are practically invisible. The glasses have been repaired and are ready for further wear.

How to repair glasses
with a broken bow at the hinge point

In the Guest Book, Margarita from Rybinsk asked me the following question:
– I have such a problem, the child broke his glasses! The shackle broke off at the hinge with the screw, that is, the hinge with the screw remained on the frame, and the shackle was without a hole. The frame is plastic. I took my glasses to a repair shop and they said they couldn’t fix them, I had to buy new ones. Maybe you can recommend something.

My advice:
– Everything can be repaired, but the complexity of repairs and the need to purchase special tools often make repairs not economically feasible. This is exactly your case. But since the main cost of glasses is optical glass and their installation, you can repair glasses at low cost if you buy a cheap frame, from which the arms will match your glasses in color, method of fastening and loop size. It's even better to buy the exact same frame. Switching the temples from one glasses to another is not difficult. The glasses will be like new.

Due to the growing popularity of VR technologies, many people want to join them. Today there are many different variations and models of devices on sale in different price categories. Nevertheless, some users, out of curiosity or in order to save money, are wondering how to make virtual reality glasses with their own hands from cardboard or plastic (which is more difficult)?

This option is suitable, first of all, for those who have a modern smartphone with a large screen and a built-in set of sensors (more about the required sensors below). According to statistics, a considerable part of the world’s population uses such devices. Thus, with insignificant monetary and certain time costs, the user can make excellent three-dimensional glasses with his own hands. We will look at what is needed for this and how all the parts are assembled below.

An interesting point is that even Google produces and distributes a simplified design made of cardboard and simple lenses, called Cardboard. Their VR glasses, even in a similar design, are available in several versions that are not difficult to replicate at home.

Moreover, the company itself has made all the necessary information publicly available.

Thus, there is no need to talk about the relevance of the issue under consideration.

What you need to assemble VR glasses at home

Before worrying about the materials and components of future glasses, you should make sure that your smartphone is compatible with the technology. The phone settings should ensure comfortable work with 3D films, games and other virtual reality projects.

Suitable for such purposes, for example:

Android 4.1 JellyBean or better
iOS 7 or higher
Windows Phone 7.0 and so on

The screen diagonal must be at least 4.5 inches for comfortable and full operation of all applications.

What sensors are needed:

Magnetometer, that is, a digital compass
Accelerometer
Gyroscope

The last two conditions are required for most virtual applications, otherwise, the user will only be able to view. Without these two components, it is not possible to fully evaluate VR technology.

It should be noted that for self-production you will not need expensive or rare components. So, now let’s move on to the list of necessary materials for making VR glasses with your own hands at home:

Cardboard. It is recommended to use the most dense and at the same time thin variations, for example corrugated cardboard. The cardboard must be in the form of a single sheet with dimensions of at least 22x56 cm and a thickness of no more than 3 mm.
Lenses. The best option would be to use biconvex aspherical lenses with a focal length of 40-45 mm and 25 mm in diameter. It is recommended to use a glass option instead of plastic.
Magnets. You will need two magnets: a neodymium in the form of a ring and a ceramic in the form of a disk. The dimensions should be 19 mm in diameter and 3 mm in thickness. As a replacement, you can use ordinary food foil. Alternatively, you can use a full mechanical button.
Velcro i.e. textile fastener. This material requires two strips of approximately 20-30 mm each.
Rubber. The length of the elastic band should be at least 8cm, since it will be used to secure the smartphone.

In addition to materials, you will also need some tools: ruler, scissors, glue. Based on your capabilities and ingenuity, some materials and tools can be replaced with alternative options if functionality does not suffer.

As you already understand, materials and tools alone will not be enough to manufacture, much less assemble, an entire structure. Of course, this requires a drawing or simply a template diagram for creating virtual reality glasses.

You can find a template for cutting out glasses below. It can be easily printed and then pasted onto a piece of cardboard. Since the expanded version of the glasses goes beyond the usual landscape format (and is 3 sheets of A4 format), then you will have to carefully and accurately combine all the fragments at the joints.

To download the template to your computer, you need to right-click on the picture, and then click on the item "Save Image As".

3 parts template

Below you will see 3 large pictures that will need to be printed and then glued onto cardboard so that all the joints are respected.

The finished result on cardboard

This is the final result that you should get by connecting 3 parts of A4 sheet on cardboard.

Cut out cardboard design

This is what we got after we completely cut out the cardboard according to the drawing. Carefully follow the numbers and connect all the parts correctly.

Where to get glasses lenses

In this matter, it is the lenses that are the most difficult to access component. If you can’t find them in the nearest stores and retail outlets, you can search on the Internet.

Among the available and most likely places that may offer such a product for sale are the following:

Shops in the “Optics” category. Here the product is measured in dimensions - dioptre, and for glasses you will need lenses of at least +22 dioptres.
Stationery stores. Magnifiers (i.e. magnifying glasses) are sold here, tenfold lenses should work as an alternative.
Search on domestic websites and trading platforms, or on foreign online auctions.
Make it from a plastic bottle (more details in the video instructions)

If the lenses received by the user differ to a certain extent from the specified standard, it will be necessary to either grind the lenses themselves or make appropriate adjustments to the design of the glasses. Often the problem can be solved by including in your design a device for adjusting the distance from the smartphone to the lens.

How to make glasses without lenses

Those who imagine the option of creating VR glasses without lenses can immediately forget about it. Without special lenses, the resulting design will be no different from ordinary glasses or glass. Such a design will not bring any practical benefit, except that it can be used to create a cinema effect.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make virtual reality glasses with your own hands from cardboard

So, when the user has all the materials, tools and a printed template, then assembly can begin.

First step

Paste the template onto the cardboard
Cut along the contour
Bend and fasten individual places

The first step is to glue the drawing onto a sheet of cardboard. The main thing is to be careful and maintain accuracy at the joints so that the dimensions are not distorted. Then all elements must be carefully cut along the contour. From the special marks on the drawing it will be clear in which places the structure needs to be bent and in which it needs to be fastened.

Second step

Insert lenses into the finished structure
Magnet fastener
Lining cardboard with foam

Next, you need to insert lenses into the already assembled frame, and, if necessary, fix them to increase the reliability of the fastener. Then a strip of foil or magnets is glued to create something like a control button.

To increase the comfort of using the resulting device, in places of contact with the head, the surface can be covered with foam rubber or other softening material.

Video instructions

Certain points from the given algorithm of actions for assembling the structure in question may be incomprehensible or cause difficulties. In this case, you can familiarize yourself with the visual and step-by-step execution of all actions in the attached video instructions.

This is a fairly simple and cheap option that will satisfy the needs of a wide range of users. After everything works out for you, do not forget to read the article about how to use it comfortably.

The shape of the frame follows the shape of the broken glasses, but the connection of the arms is not looped, but “carpentry” - dovetail. Since I am a carpenter, this option seemed most suitable to me. In the spirit of this brain guides I've created several pairs of glasses, worn them for months and never been disappointed, so let's get started!

BUT, before you begin, it is important to warn you that the accuracy and symmetry of the frames of the glasses affects the quality of your vision, the health of your eyes, so we maintain precision and accuracy in all details!

Step 1: Fold Form

First, we create a shape to give the frame a slight bend. If you look closely at the glasses, you will see that they are slightly bent along their length, so we also need to bend the wooden base of the frame.

On the block for the form, mark the center line and, using a compass or other suitable tool, mark the cutting line. Respect the dimensions of the original frame! Next, in one pass, use a band saw to cut the shape bar. We clean the edges of the cut and, if there are deviations from symmetry, we eliminate them. After this, without creases, evenly, paste over the form. brain tape so that the frame does not stick to the form.

Step 2: Frame Material

Using plywood manufacturing technology, namely gluing together several layers of veneer, we create material for glasses.

We prepare 0.7mm thick veneer according to the color and direction of the fibers (the fibers of adjacent layers are perpendicular), the size of the veneer is larger than the size of your frame, so that there is room for maneuver when cutting.

Step 3: Gluing

The choice of glue is wide and depends on your requirements for crafts. I want the glasses to be durable, moisture-resistant and dimensionally stable, that is, not to shrink too much, so I chose epoxy resin.

According to the instructions, we prepare the resin and, observing safety regulations, glue the prepared veneer and place it in the mold. We clamp the workpiece, not too hard, so as not to squeeze out all the epoxy, and let it sit until the resin dries completely, at least a day.

After drying, remove the squeezed out glue and mark it on the workpiece crafts center line.

Step 4: Outlines

Using old glasses as a template, we mark the contours of the glasses on the frame blank to brain amenities We use clamps. Since the dovetail joint is quite wide, we add a few millimeters to the contour, the thickness of the future arch is 5 mm.

Step 5: Cutting out the frame

Using a machine, we cut out the frame along the outlined contours, leaving a small indent for modification. Then, using a machine with a suitable attachment, we process and polish the edges, and select a seat for the lenses.

Step 6: Bevel for the Temples

Since the temples of the glasses are not parallel to each other, it is necessary to make small bevels on the frame where the temples are installed. To do this, we mark the distances at which the temples are installed from the center line of the frame in both directions, and use needle files to form the bevels.

After this, on the bevels we set aside distances equal to the thickness of the arches and draw a cut line. Along the resulting line, carefully and evenly cut off the excess material and process the cut.

Step 7: Temples

The arms can be made from any hardwood or, as in the case of the frame, curved laminated veneer. I cut my arms from a 2cm thick board, and the board was of high quality, without knots.

Shape of the arms according to your needs brain taste, understated or artsy, whatever you like.

Step 8: Arm Angle

Everyone has their own face shape and viewing angle preferences, so we empirically find the angle of connection between the arms and frame that suits you. Mark this angle on the arms homemade products and, clearly and accurately, with any suitable tool, the main thing is to maintain a right angle to the plane of the dovetail connection, cut it off.

Step 9: Cutting the Tails

On the arms we mark the contours of the dovetail joint and cut out the excess. We use any tool from your arsenal, observing the accuracy and geometry of the lines.

Step 10: Transferring the Outline

We clamp the arms in a vice and transfer the contours of the connection to the edges of the frame. I used a sharp chisel for this and was extremely careful, since brain cutter It’s sharp, but it’s a pity for your fingers :)

Step 11: Cutting the Tails on the Frames

Using a jigsaw and a cutter, we cut out the excess material from the frame along the outlined contour. Again, we respect the geometry.

Step 12: Alignment

The important step is to adjust the arms. “Gently” adjust the arms to the frame, if necessary, cut off excess material. I use one trick at this stage: I paint over the joints on the frame with a pencil, then I combine the frame with the arms, take them out and, in those places where the joint is tight, there are stylus stains, which I then cut off.

Also, if desired, you can remove the angularity of the tails crafts, round them up a little.

Step 13: Finalization

We finalize the resulting arms and frame with fine brain sandpaper, we try on the glasses, adjust them if necessary and begin finishing.

We coat the glasses with a non-toxic and non-allergenic composition; for this I use a combination of mineral oil and beeswax, and polyurethane for the temples.

Step 14: Try it on and wear it!

We insert the lenses into the glasses and use small drops of glue to secure them in the frame. Of course you can show brain fantasy and another way to secure the lenses, but glue is the easiest option.

Optical homemade done!

Moreover, the company itself has made all the necessary information publicly available.

Thus, there is no need to talk about the relevance of the issue under consideration.